Baz36 Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Hello guys, I am an idiot... Just wanted to get that out of the way... But the price is not too high to pay and I have learned my lesson so don't spank me too much! I've bought a car from a private seller and I am getting ripped off and it's not even worth the stress to fight it, so... As it stands I am left with the above car and so far the only fault I see with it is that all the gague lights don't work, the warning lights do though. I've read around the forums and I am aware of the infamous cluster issues... Now, so far I have not noticed any erratic behaviour or speedo not working etc, everything seems fine barring the backlight. So I am thinking it could be the dirty pcb issue? Basically I'm asking what are my chances of finding a relatively easy fix for this (that doesn't involve replacing the cluster) and does anyone have any suggestions I can try? Thanks guys. EDIT: Just wanted to add some of my thoughts... To me clearly not a fuse issue as the warning lights work and all gauges work (just not the lights). There seems to only be one fuse to the cluster. I can't see all the bulbs to the gauges going all at once so I think the only logical thing it can be is some bad soldering or corrosion. I could be dead wrong... Just my thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isetta Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 do the illumination lights work on the heater controls? on my old focus mk1 zetec there was an illumination light dimmer control next to the headlight on/off switch. you kind of rolled it round with your thumb. on mine it was a bit dodgy and at some positions the illumination lights would go off half way round. I do not know if the LX has this dimmer control or not. Check if you have one and try moviing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isetta Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 also from google images, it seems the mk1 cluster has the type of bulb holders that twist into the back of the cluster. This means that worst case scenario you could run a wire from the headlight switch up to one of the bulb holders if needed. Once you have the power to one of them it should connect to all of the other illumination cluster. compared to all of the things that can go wrong , the worst case scenario for this should in theory be quite an easy one to solve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baz36 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 I'll have to look to see if the heater lights work but I can tell you it doesn't have that dimmer switch you're talking about, when I first read about that I ran out full of hope to check but no, it doesn't have one. But I like the idea regarding the lights, I think that has potential to work, I'm not sure I could do that myself though. Couldn't I even bodge some christmas lights in there too to run off the battery? XD Thanks for your input. EDIT: Maybe even if I just take the bulbs out and put some strong light behind it will be enough? XD Could even help solve the condendation issue that causes this in the first place lol EDIT2: Just another thought, the christmas lights idea could be the safest, I could run them off an external battery pack, disconnecting during the day. That way I don't have to mess with the cars electrics at all. Just a thought. https://www.lights4fun.co.uk/i/q/C20-R/20-red-led-micro-battery-fairy-lights Something like this could work, the effect is static, 1m in length, maybe I get a couple and just poke the lights through the holes and tape it in place. They claim 30-50 hours of battery life. EDIT3: I have just checked all the heater lights work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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