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Eolys level reset with forscan query

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I've filled the eolys tank with 1.5ltrs, but it didnt come out of the overflow pipe so assume it needs more.

Can I reset the level with forscan saying its full, even though it isnt?



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I couldn't wait, so tried what I thought was correct but its all gone wrong :(

1) I selected 'refill'

2) I selected 'prime'

3) I tried selecting 'reset' but it wouldnt.

4) I tried 'static regeneration', but half way through a message came up saying that it had failed and to try again.

5) 'static regeneration' failed again.


Incidentally these different fault codes are showing now, but at least the 'cog/exclamation mark' warning light is now gone.




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On 15/08/2017 at 8:16 PM, gooty said:


Have you cleared the DTCs from earlier? It looks like they are all still there, with some new ones added. So it is hard to see what is current.

If working on the car yourself, then after saving a log of the DTCs, it is always a good idea to clear them, to see if they return. If taking the car to a garage, all DTCs should be left.

I would clear the codes, do a FACM reset, and then the fill & prime procedures again. BUT ....

U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus OFF

This is a commucations error on the HS CAN bus somewhere.

P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction.

I think all Diesels have ABS, so will not have a VSS as such. This code will be due to incorrect information received over the HS-CAN bus from the ABS unit, since the ABS shows no errors.


This switch goes to the IC.


This switch also goes to the IC.

P1938 FORD – Brake Switch/Sensor Signal

As above.

P1934: VEHICLE SPEED SIGNAL (possibly)

As P0500 above.

There is also one comms error in the IC. In itself, this is not unusual when doing diagnostics, but when combined with the error codes above, and the year (2006) of your car, it strongly suggests to me that the IC is starting to misbehave. This module is one end of the HS-CAN bus, containing the important terminating resistors, and is also the bridge linking MS-CAN to HS-CAN, so carries a lot of data around. The 2006 Focus ICs are notorious, the most common problem being bad soldering on the connector at the back of the IC.

It looks like this is confusing any DPF problems. Running a static regen requires a lot of use of the HS-CAN bus, so IC problems could cause failure. The garage were confused by the DPF DTCs too. If they are due to CAN bus (IC) problems, then that would explain that too.

Have you managed to connect to the MS-CAN bus (assuming your ELM has a switch?)  DTCs here would provide further clues.

Any other symptoms, odd lights or displays? IC faults usually do light the "Cog" lamp.

Try tapping on the facsia around the IC, see if it causes error codes or odd problems.

This may be a red herring, but all those odd codes appearing are hard to explain by any other cause. The next most likely one is that the ELM237 is causing the odd codes, while in use. I think I saw it was WiFi, and that is the hardest protocol to match to the ELM interface & CAN protocol. Was it one said to work with Forscan & EMConfig?

Keep saving the codes, and clearing them, before each new test or operation.

Caution: If the connection to the IC fails completely, the car will be immobilised. So do the tests at home, or where immobilisation is not a total disaster. The fault is fixable if it does happen, but may take some time.


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hi peter,

after putting in 1.5ltr of eolys (it wasnt enough to come out of the overflow pipe), I used forscan to check 'refill', 'prime' but it wouldnt let me 'reset'.

I tried static regen twice, but it failed both times half way through.

However, the cog/i warning lamp went off and the 2nd lot of codes appeared (shown above), but it was still cutting out at 3000 rpm.

today I changed the oil filter and it runs like a dream :) -remember there was a low pressure fuel code.

I cleared the codes and now all I have is P2459

Ive tried yet another static regen, but it failed again.

I know its not cutting out at 3000rpm anymore, but is there a way to clear this final code?


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1 hour ago, gooty said:

I cleared the codes and now all I have is P2459

Ive tried yet another static regen, but it failed again.

I know its not cutting out at 3000rpm anymore, but is there a way to clear this final code?

With no Eolys errors showing, and with fluid in the tank, it should be ok to drive the car now, and I suggest trying a few decent length runs to see if it will do an active (normal) regen. It does this while driving. High speed should not be necessary, but it does need to be fully warmed up. I think the regen process can continue even in urban driving at 30mph.

Forscan can tell you if a regen has taken place, you have to set a list of PIDs to read, then read them.

Any error in the car, like the low pressure one, or the Eolys one, would prevent regens, and lead to the frequency error (P2459). Hopefully it will now do them. Then the frequency code may go, or be possible to be cleared.

I suspect your ELM is less than perfect, and may be causing the forced regen to fail, along with the other list of odd errors. It is either that or an IC fault, as I said above, but there are not really enough comms errors (U codes) to justify that at the moment.

The P2459, on its own, is not urgent. Use the car, keep checking codes, and see what happens. Good news about the fuel filter.

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After all of the effort I've put into this mend (replaced glowplugs, new oil filter, new genuine ford bonnet lock, top up eolys, new oil/oil filter etc.), I've decided to take the dpf off and jetwash its inside.

Removing the dpf was straightforward using this german youtube clip below.

The only hard bits were undoing the two rusted bolts holding the back of the dpf to the flexi exhaust and actually sliding out the unbolted dpf.

I thought the jetwash would have blown out loads of black carbon, but there was only an occasional small clump the size of a smartie sweet. The total would have probably filled 2 egg cups by the end. The bulk of what came out was this red rusty looking water. It seemed to just keep coming until finally it turned clear. I googled more youtube clips of professional dpf cleaning by water and theirs were the same.

Its all bolted in now, with a new genuine ford metal exhaust gasket between the dpf and flexi exhaust (only £5). I also had to get two new replacement bolts to tighten it up. All I've got to do now is put them in today and I'll start it up and post what happens.   




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When I started it up, the cog/i warning light had returned, and it was in limp mode.

I drove it to see if the DPF needed drying out, but it was really sluggish in every gear.

Using forscan, I reset the fault codes, and the warning light was gone. So was the limp mode. It drove better than it ever has before. The acceleration was incredible. I took it for a half an hour drive up the motorway at 80mph in fourth gear at 4000rpm.

when home, I used forescan again. It still had code P2459 (maximum number of regens reached). I wanted to do a static regen to see if I could get rid of it now that the dpf was clean, but it failed again half way through. Realising that the code was obviously stating I had reached the maximum allowed, I reset it. However, this option says that you must not perform a static regen afterwards.

I checked the codes and now there are NONE!!!!!! The car drives like a dream. Hopefully it will do an active regen whilst driving like it should do.

I'd like to thank peter for all of his help and hope that this post will help others in the future :) 

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  • 1 year later...

Hi Gooty, and all. This is my first post in here so hello everyone. Did this fix offer a lasting solution? I’m having trouble with my own cmax, same as yours only 2008. The dpf problems started about a year ago. One of the tubes going to the pressure sensor had more or less crumbled to nothing. Anyway, from I changed it, the engine malfunction light has came on. So far, I have taken it for a motorway drive and it fixes the problem temporarily. Though my car is driving like crap so I am going to top up the dpf fluid, and perform a stat regen with FORScan. I might take the thing out though and flush it out and i can’t decide if I should do that instead of try fluid and regen. Any advice would be great. I’m typing on my phone here so apologies for the literary short hand. 

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4 hours ago, Martyc said:

Did this fix offer a lasting solution?

Like you, I would love to know if there was any lasting effect. I know of at least 4 people who have used the water back wash method, but in none of those cases has there been any follow up! gooty was last on this site in August 2017, so is unlikely to re-appear. But just in case notifications are still active, I will quote him:

On 8/20/2017 at 7:03 PM, gooty said:

I checked the codes and now there are NONE!!!!!! The car drives like a dream.

I would ensure the additive tank has fluid in it, and try a static regen first, before anything so drastic as the water treatment. I am not convinced it has a lasting benefit. Ash can set like concrete after contact with water, so any residual ash will reduce the efficientcy of the dpf.

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Yes I too have that fear. I tried a static regen with FORScan but I was using a wireless OBD2 connector and it kept interrupting the process. I’m not sure if that was a connectivity issue or something else, but I have ordered a OBD to usb cable to eliminate the connectivity issue. I ordered the fluid and both it and the cable should arrive within the next few days. I’ll top the fluid up and do a static regen and let you all know how I get on. If it doesn’t work properly I’ll try the water trick and make a video so anyone can see how to do it and hopefully be able to advice on it’s success. I have a friend who does the cameras down the sewers so I might get some inside the dpf footage which would be interesting lol

but yeah, fluid and static first. I’ll not mind doing the water trick as if it all fails, I’ll be having to buy a new dpf anyhow. 

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Have you checked for prices of proper sonic DPF cleaning?

Assuming the pressure pipe was damaged for a while, the DPF will almost certainly be saturated beyond regen now.  However, aftermarket DPFs are crap, will be much better to have yours professionally cleaned if it's original.  I haven't checked prices of that recently though.  

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2 hours ago, Martyc said:

someone changed their pressure sensor and it cured their dpf problem.

If the sensor is faulty, then that can happen. Forscan can log the pressure readings while driving, along with RPM, APP (accelerator) & MAF (airflow). This will give some clue as to whether it is giving reasonable readings or completely duff, though minor errors would be hard to detect.

Like Tom says, if the car has not done a regen for a long time, then there may be too much soot in the DPF to regen properly. Alternatively, if the DPF has done a high mileage then it will be full of ash which does not respond to any sort of regen. 80k to 120k is, I think about the limit range for the old 1.6TDCI DPF. Ash can not be removed by magic cleaning in situ, the DPF would have to be removed for some kind of back flush cleaning, the ash will only come out the way it went in. I don't think dissolving it is a viable option.

I am very suspicious of many advertised DPF cleaning operations. Especially any reference to "deep cleaning" That is utterly meaningless hype, it usually means some snake oil and a static regen. Heating in a kiln may remove soot, but will not touch ash. Ultrasonic cleaning in a bath with the DPF removed from the car might be effective at removing ash as well as soot. So if considering any cleaning services, check just exactly what they are offering, and watch out for quack operations.

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  • 2 months later...

sorry for the long delay in updating you, but i gave the car to my son (who only drives short distances at low speed/revs).

its only been motorway thrashed a couple of times by me since jetwashing the dpf.


the cars been running fine for about 1 1/2 years now, and only just went into limp mode again.


the codes are different now from before.


P2458-21, P0341-22, P242F-E1, P2409-60


tried several forced regens, but always stops at 11%








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2 hours ago, gooty said:

P2458-21, P0341-22, P242F-E1, P2409-60

It looks like you got an extra 18 months or so out of the car by washing the DPF!

2458 and 242F are quite clear that the ECU can not get the pressure drop over the DPF down to the required amount. There are lots of possible causes, like the hoses to the DPF DP sensor, but in this case I suspect it is that the DPF has too much ash or unburnable soot in it.

The other errors add to this. Problems with the cap sensor may mean it has not detected fuel fills and has not been adding Eolys, hence making unburnable soot. Camshaft sensor errors would almost certainly prevent automatic regens, all engine systems seem to need to be A1 before it will start an active regen.

So it may be time to have a good look at the car as a whole, and decide whether to scrap, sell as it is, or repair.

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thanks peter.


ive been looking online at a company in avon with good reviews. They charge £399 to remove the dpf, cut and take out the filter, reweld/replace dpf, then remap. they say it will be faster, more fuel efficient, no smoke and give a guarantee it will never fail future MOTs on emisions/dpf


worth trying??

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4 hours ago, gooty said:

They charge £399 to remove the dpf, cut and take out the filter, reweld/replace dpf, then remap. they say it will be faster, more fuel efficient, no smoke and give a guarantee it will never fail future MOTs on emisions/dpf

It is not a legally allowed procedure these days. MoT regulations have been tightened up a bit lately, and may be more so in future. But it still relies on visual inspection without dismantling, plus the basic max revs smoke test. It is unlikely that on a 2006 car there will be much significant change, the MIL test only applies to cars after 2008 at the moment.

Have a look at:


before asking for more details from the company. The term "clearly cut open and re-welded" may be the critical one.

In congested urban areas, particulates are being regarded as a significant health hazard. But looking at the wider environment, like the rest of the planet, scrapping cars prematurely with the waste and consumption that entails, may be a bigger evil. So there is no clear cut answer.

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My son loves the car (its in incredible condition and had a new ford replacement engine at one point which only has 60k on it now)

He isnt in a position to buy another car either.

The cutout is behind the heat shields, so cant be seen.

But Avon is a long drive from me, so getting there in limp mode will be a pain,

what needs to be done to sort out the cap and camshaft sensor issues first? 

I guess the cap sensor wont be a problem after dpf mod, or will it keep flagging up even though no more need for eolys fluid? 

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11 hours ago, gooty said:

I guess the cap sensor wont be a problem after dpf mod, or will it keep flagging up even though no more need for eolys fluid? 

I was going to say to check with the company that their mapping can fully disable the Eolys dosing system, or it will keep putting it in and flag up errors if it runs out or develops any problems. That whole dosing unit is a bit unreliable, and can be very expensive to fix. The cap problem may be that the magnet has fallen out, there was a thread on this site somewhere about this. The Eoylys will do no harm if still present, it is just the risk of annoying failures.

For camshaft, I would first verify it is a real problem. Clear the codes and see how often it returns. If it keeps coming back just replace the sensor. I don't think it is an expensive or difficult job. It is, I believe, behind the upper timing belt cover, which should be quite easy to remove.

On my previous car, it was complaining about one of the sensors (cam / crankshaft), so I changed that, and it immediately started complaining about the other one, so I had to change that too. It probably was the 2nd one that was faulty, but the software was too dim to tell. But that is just the way a lot of these things are!

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I'm abroad for a week, but ill get a camshaft sensor when i get back as they're only £11 form europarts.

If that clears the code, I'll book it in for the dpf/remap (after checking it disables the eolys dosing first).

ill let you guys know the outcome.


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  • 9 months later...

Hi peeps. I haven’t updated in a while because I wanted to make sure I have given my dpf enough of a workout to see if the washout was a washout ( see what I did there) anyway, I took the dpf out and gave it a good washing out with the hose. The water was filthy but I kept shaking it etc until the water ran clear. I done this during a few hot summer days so I could be as sure as I could it was dried out properly as I don’t want to risk any ash turning to cement. I also topped up the fluid for it and refitted it. Touch wood, the car has been going great ever since. I hope I don’t have all the faults pop up as I see in the last reply but so far, I couldn’t be happier with the results. Only thing I can add, if you are like me and need a manual to even change a bulb, don’t follow the instruction manual to remove your dpf. The first time I removed it, the manual steps had me removing the radiator etc to get the dpf out. You can get it out without doing that. You just need the car high enough for it to come out from underneath. Thankfully I have a mate who loaned me his ramps. So 🤞 I don’t have to come back here with bad news but hopefully this info will help some other poor bugger with the same problem. 

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