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Help needed tuning a fiesta ecoboost to Stage 2/3


TheScoobyCollector
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Hi all,

I was hoping to increase the power from 123hp to the max the turbo can take which is around 170-180, I would like to go to the 200 mark however I believe the engine and gearbox won't cope? Would anything else be needed other than an exhaust, intercooler and remap? I've heard the 1.0 ecoboost engines can get quite hot and do require a significant amount of cooling. Is an induction kit needed or would a panel filter suffice?

Also is there anywhere to find parts cheaper as it seems to get an extra 50hp it's going to cost over 2k fitted and thats before spending money on brakes, clutch, exterior bits, etc.

Kind Regards,

TheScoobyCollector

 

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Changing a filter won't help bring in cooler air. You'd be far better with a bigger intercooler.

5 hours ago, TheScoobyCollector said:

Also is there anywhere to find parts cheaper as it seems to get an extra 50hp it's going to cost over 2k fitted and thats before spending money on brakes, clutch, exterior bits, etc.

Welcome to the world of car modding, it's not a cheap hobby.

Going that high you will most likely run into gearbox issues, they are already pretty much maxed out so just aren't rated for that torque. If you bought the 1.0L expecting ridiculous power for cheap then you've bought the wrong type of car mate. You'd need intercooler, exhaust, remap, maybe even a bigger radiator if they get that hot (last thing you want is cylinder heap warp).

My thoughts are for every 100cc you should have 10hp. So a 1.0L should have 100hp. With a turbo and extensive testing by Ford, they can push it a bit more. I've seen a couple people on here with blown ecoboost engines after a remap, it's only a 1.0L at the end of the day.

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1 hour ago, Luke4efc said:

You'd need intercooler, exhaust, remap, maybe even a bigger radiator if they get that hot (last thing you want is cylinder heap warp).

Im not aware that there is an upgraded radiator for the 1.0. If you ran a FMIC you could conceivably use a ST radiator or the upgraded Mountune or Mishimoto ST radiator replacements. Just as important is making the existing cooling system more robust, so silicone hoses and an aluminium overflow tank are probably required, as well as dedicated water and oil temp guages and a low fluid level indicator. 

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Cheaper / easier to sell it and buy an ST :-)

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trying to squeeze 200 bhp from a 1.0 ltr 3cyl engine reliability wont be worth a crap.......

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On 8/18/2017 at 11:51 AM, Tom-B64 said:

Have a word with @GingerFlame if you want a lot of power :laugh:

Wasn't that to do because the map put on it was dodgy?

If they blow up at anything more than standard why do Pumaspeed promote their tuning packages for the 1.0 ecoboost?

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48 minutes ago, TheScoobyCollector said:

Wasn't that to do because the map put on it was dodgy?

If they blow up at anything more than standard why do Pumaspeed promote their tuning packages for the 1.0 ecoboost?

Any engine can blow up at any power more than recommended by the manufacturer. The 1.0Ls are stressed engines at stock. I've seen somewhere they're only supposed to last for 100,000 miles, hence why the cambelt isn't serviceable.

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expected "life"of an engine is minimum 150k according to some manufacturers, thats why the cambelt is refered to as belt for life. but in reality it has change interval of 150k or 10 yrs and is a servicable item but expensive to do.

8hrs labour and a long list of bolts , cambelt, tensioner etc to change.

will probably be uneconomical to change for the owner of a 10 yr old 150k car

cant see much change out of £1000 at a ford dealer. 

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Yeah, lots of caring, sensible comments! To add to your bank of knowledge/comments.....from best of memory, and I stand to be corrected, following also heard from 'around and about' from various sources. Yes, gearbox poss not up to it? 140PS already restricted (with longer 1st/2nd gears?) to protect it. Uprated head gasket on 140PS over and above that on 125PS. Only have drums on rear. Adequate but not outstanding for even 125/140PS state of tune for me. 100,000 miles or 10 years for cambelt life then £1000 job (as of 2/3 years back). Agree with other comments: stressed engine at stock, ST time I think too etc etc. Last time I looked even M-Sport R2T rally versions were 'only' running to 175PS and how often do they require rebuilds and so on a so forth. Guessing there would be a price to pay in more than one way!   

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After Jason keer from facebook ran his to 197bhp but only lasted a few months and litrally tore a hole in side of block  a wouldn't bother if you want more power go to st its much cheaper only a st and stage 1 map will be well over whatever you can get ftom a 1.0l

If you want stable power its around 165 to 170bhp mark the gearbox can only take upto 200ft lb of torque before its goods and need a decent diff to sort above that and engine can only take internally around 175-180bhp at most before needing forged but if going into that territory a wouldnt spend so much if needing to spend that amount would again go to st 

My car because of discounts etc and timing of friends etc i have actually been able to get this far and going a little further 

My car has mountune induction 

All hoses including hard pipe

Cat back doesnt give much but a tiny bit more able breathing for car 

 

And running revo stage 1 currently at 167.8bhp and 199ft lb torque atm 

 

I just installed dual pass intercooler and now been offered a sports cat for very cheap so for extra 60 for stage 2 map will take my car to mid 170s and a differently curved power map on the stage 2 keeping the torque 199 but will be used more over the map due to my car being the 125ps model my second gear goes to 70mph and as always a love ma wee car but just a wee bit of info to think about buddy i will give you my project page from everything I have done  

Pics of my new intercooler and car from a long while ago till now and have fun buddy it's a best seller for a reason

598abca39d2a7_WhatsAppImage2017-08-09at07_46.50(3).thumb.jpeg.c8cc2f5edbd87fe5af79d966c8c45196.jpeg

598abca17867b_WhatsAppImage2017-08-09at07_46.51(1).thumb.jpeg.30d3d5817409dbfa3ff8d0176225e025.jpegIMG_20170517_092548.thumb.jpg.976dd1c9ef859bbbff97ce91dff5bea1.jpgIMG_20170517_092037.thumb.jpg.07b026f648fc500f2590d5a812990855.jpg

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Ps the 125ps is little lower at remapping than 140ps and 100 is little lower than 125ps at mapping also the 100 and 125ps both share same gearbox ratios also

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Also the car engines that you have read about have blown because of poor mapping my mate @GingerFlame can tell you all about who to avoid and they are a few different mappers out there some promise the world and deliver a couple bhp with poor fueling etc in return yer cars piston one loses compression . . . .  

Personally I'm with revo went from bluefin (wish I never did it) as its power is so low down it blew my synchro plus I had many issues with it

exact same issues as @M4RC but they claim "oh we never had this before" when I know a few that had same issue as mines. 

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Also the car engines that you have read about have blown because of poor mapping my mate @GingerFlame can tell you all about who to avoid and they are a few different mappers out there some promise the world and deliver a couple bhp with poor fueling etc in return yer cars piston one loses compression . . . .  
Personally I'm with revo went from bluefin (wish I never did it) as its power is so low down it blew my synchro plus I had many issues with it
exact same issues as @M4RC but they claim "oh we never had this before" when I know a few that had same issue as mines. 


So, would you recommend the bluefin map for the 125?


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15 hours ago, Ecobo0st said:

 


So, would you recommend the bluefin map for the 125?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Personally ..... no 

I had to call bluefin over a number of times because of and issue which they said my cars the issue even though i knew at this point 2 other people at same time had that issue so I ended up taking it off and not even using it and when I put car back to standard it gave me a standard map on car that was dated 2012! When I went to revo they had to update cars map before putting my revo stage 1 on as they said it was out dated and had a dip in performance and showed me on dyno etc plus due to the torque being so low it chews your synchro. . .  Now I know synchros on these cars are weak but just happens to be after map install and it went on a motorway...... and I dont rag my car etc a take good care of it and was surprised as it was onway back from ford fair 2016 then talking to a few people on FB mk7 parts page I realised I wasn't alone and after speaking to me they had exact same issues with bluefin from fuel pump giving out too much pressure and going to limp mode, to dip in standard map and synchros going because of torque I am sure @M4RC could tell you about his issues with bluefin also and he got refund because if it.......

 

This is from my personal experience and me being me digging around to find out in not only one but again just my opinion

I am sure alot of people and using bluefin fine with no mods to minimal mods. 

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Personally ..... no 
I had to call bluefin over a number of times because of and issue which they said my cars the issue even though i knew at this point 2 other people at same time had that issue so I ended up taking it off and not even using it and when I put car back to standard it gave me a standard map on car that was dated 2012! When I went to revo they had to update cars map before putting my revo stage 1 on as they said it was out dated and had a dip in performance and showed me on dyno etc plus due to the torque being so low it chews your synchro. . .  Now I know synchros on these cars are weak but just happens to be after map install and it went on a motorway...... and I dont rag my car etc a take good care of it and was surprised as it was onway back from ford fair 2016 then talking to a few people on FB mk7 parts page I realised I wasn't alone and after speaking to me they had exact same issues with bluefin from fuel pump giving out too much pressure and going to limp mode, to dip in standard map and synchros going because of torque I am sure @M4RC could tell you about his issues with bluefin also and he got refund because if it.......
 
This is from my personal experience and me being me digging around to find out in not only one but again just my opinion
I am sure alot of people and using bluefin fine with no mods to minimal mods. 


Thanks for the detailed reply, think I will give bluefin a miss then


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On 8/19/2017 at 8:52 PM, Paramanic said:

After Jason keer from facebook ran his to 197bhp but only lasted a few months and litrally tore a hole in side of block  a wouldn't bother if you want more power go to st its much cheaper only a st and stage 1 map will be well over whatever you can get ftom a 1.0l

If you want stable power its around 165 to 170bhp mark the gearbox can only take upto 200ft lb of torque before its goods and need a decent diff to sort above that and engine can only take internally around 175-180bhp at most before needing forged but if going into that territory a wouldnt spend so much if needing to spend that amount would again go to st 

My car because of discounts etc and timing of friends etc i have actually been able to get this far and going a little further 

My car has mountune induction 

All hoses including hard pipe

Cat back doesnt give much but a tiny bit more able breathing for car 

 

And running revo stage 1 currently at 167.8bhp and 199ft lb torque atm 

 

I just installed dual pass intercooler and now been offered a sports cat for very cheap so for extra 60 for stage 2 map will take my car to mid 170s and a differently curved power map on the stage 2 keeping the torque 199 but will be used more over the map due to my car being the 125ps model my second gear goes to 70mph and as always a love ma wee car but just a wee bit of info to think about buddy i will give you my project page from everything I have done  

Pics of my new intercooler and car from a long while ago till now and have fun buddy it's a best seller for a reason

598abca39d2a7_WhatsAppImage2017-08-09at07_46.50(3).thumb.jpeg.c8cc2f5edbd87fe5af79d966c8c45196.jpeg

598abca17867b_WhatsAppImage2017-08-09at07_46.51(1).thumb.jpeg.30d3d5817409dbfa3ff8d0176225e025.jpegIMG_20170517_092548.thumb.jpg.976dd1c9ef859bbbff97ce91dff5bea1.jpgIMG_20170517_092037.thumb.jpg.07b026f648fc500f2590d5a812990855.jpg

Thank you for the great advice and tbf 160 - 170hp with that torque figure would probably be more than enough for me. As you said it's who and how it gets mapped that makes the difference.

Where did you get the side skirts and intercooler from?

Kind regards, 

TheScoobyCollector. 

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Sideskirts I had a hawke eyed friend spot them in a breakers for me and intercooler from another fiesta friend who moved to an st but can get sideskirts new at ford but expensive 

 

And intercooler is 350 new from variety of places its called airtec stage 2

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  • 1 month later...

I don't come on here much anymore aw I've since moved onto bigger things. But while I'm here i have to say, Just whatever you DO NOT GO NEAR AET MOTORSPORT. 

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  • 4 years later...

Utter Bobbins guys I have a 2013 focus 1.0 ecoboost with an airtec induction  and remap to 160hp its easily been upto the job ...this engine is a mighty unit for 999cc better than anything from any of the other manufacturers to squeeze 180bhp is not that hard a grand and its a Golf Gti beater...the Cambelt life is 150k which is decent.

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