Thanks y'all for this topic. Huge timesaver, huge app. 

(Even though I discovered 15+ error codes... )

Thanks again !

Hello all, I have had the same problems with a 2013 ranger going into limp mode, engine management light and cog light on, also it will not be forced in into re-generation with a diagnostic computer. Yesterday I had a new vaporizer fitted seemed to have worked for five miles then back into limp mode, warning lights back on. I have just read a post on another forum which lead me to check the vaporizer glow plug fuse, sure enough it's blown, so everyone, check the fuse first and you might save yourself loads of money and headache.

On 11/24/2018 at 11:53 AM, iantt said:

Download forscan on a PC and buy an elm327 cable from tunnelrats. 

https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com

If your having dpf issues then a check of the fuel vaporiser is the first to check. 

Which one do you use on both PC and Android app forscan connects to my current dongle but fails to find the Ranger keep getting the check the key is it the right position other apps connect to it fine but I see that forscan is more in depth so guessing I should get one from the link you provided unless there's something I'm not doing right.

Also having dpf issues getting the same error code mentioned in this thread. 

Which dongle do you have? 

15 minutes ago, iantt said:

Which dongle do you have? 

Thamks for repling this is the one I have at the minute.

Ah, there's your problem. Forscan may connect to it but it won't communicate with the vehicle with that dongle. For forscan to connect to vehicle correctly you need either an elm 327 device, or ford vcm or the like. 

That's just a generic dongle for basic dtc reading. 

Thought that might be the case which ones best from tunnelrat-electronics ? 

15 hours ago, iantt said:

Ah, there's your problem. Forscan may connect to it but it won't communicate with the vehicle with that dongle. For forscan to connect to vehicle correctly you need either an elm 327 device, or ford vcm or the like. 

That's just a generic dongle for basic dtc reading. 

Remembered I had a carista elm which is working until the tunnelrat one turns up getting this reading.

Ok. First I would check is the fuel vaporiser fuse to see if it's blown. They can blow due to a malfunction of the glow plug( part of the vaporiser.) 

If that's ok, then you need to check the vaporiser. Easy way to check without removing vaporiser( which can be tight to get out) is to remove the fuel supply pipe from vaporiser. Then attach a hose of similar size to the vaporiser and blow down it. If it's blocked you will know. 

1 hour ago, iantt said:

Ok. First I would check is the fuel vaporiser fuse to see if it's blown. They can blow due to a malfunction of the glow plug( part of the vaporiser.) 

If that's ok, then you need to check the vaporiser. Easy way to check without removing vaporiser( which can be tight to get out) is to remove the fuel supply pipe from vaporiser. Then attach a hose of similar size to the vaporiser and blow down it. If it's blocked you will know. 

I'll check the fuse and check the vapiozoer once the exhaust system has cooled thank you for your help.

Managed to find some tubing i think it is blocked couldn't blow through it is there anything to try unblocking without removing the vaporiser ? 

Nope, the carbon build up will be quite hard. Vaporiser needs to come out and have a clean through. If it can't be cleaned out adequately then you may need a new vaporiser. 

48 minutes ago, iantt said:

Nope, the carbon build up will be quite hard. Vaporiser needs to come out and have a clean through. If it can't be cleaned out adequately then you may need a new vaporiser. 

Was hoping you wouldn't say that 😅 I'll give it a go, thank you for the help much appreciated.

Just for anyone who lands on this thread with similar problems.

Gave up last night after several attempts, tried again finally got the fuel vaporiser off, so it had half a day with WD-40 gave it another good spray this morning too.

Found a video on YouTube where they use a few strands of brake cable and a drill didn't hold much hope but it's worked can now blow through the vaporiser freely.

I found using a screw driver to clear the hole then using petrol to aid cleaning.

Then took a few strands off some bike brake cable put it in the tube barely went a mm in at first went easy with the drill speed in reverse and the cable slowly worked its way up the tube.

Did that a few times with the drill in reverse than normal and flushing with petrol and then blowing down the fuel inlet with some silicone tubing until I could easily blow through the vaporiser.

I'm not sure this will work if it's really heavily soiled / dense but took about 5 - 10 minutes so definitely try it as soon as you get the warning.

Hi Adam I had a similar problem with my Ranger and done the same as you a couple of weeks ago with cleaning the vaporiser so far it seems to be working how didn't you get on with yours I'm trying to find out what the correct DPF load values are in forscan so that I can check to see if the regens are working correctly could you let me know what values you are getting after regen thanks Donald 

20 hours ago, mannd1 said:

Hi Adam I had a similar problem with my Ranger and done the same as you a couple of weeks ago with cleaning the vaporiser so far it seems to be working how didn't you get on with yours I'm trying to find out what the correct DPF load values are in forscan so that I can check to see if the regens are working correctly could you let me know what values you are getting after regen thanks Donald 

Hi Donald 

I haven't been able to force a regen yet hoping to do it tomorrow, but I'll certainly let you know once I have has yours not done a regen since you cleaned it ? I know it's a pain if you don't meet the requirements for it to preform a regen.

Hi Adam 

               Managed to take the truck out for run today with Forscan running checked the results when I got back and it appears to be now succesfully doing regens dpf soot load got to 82%and it started to regen for approx 35Mins and soot level down to 20% so hopefully it's all working correctly now hope yours goes well one thing that I did before attempting a static regen to clear the fault code was to reset the dpf sensors learned values with forscan as I found out it would not do a regen with a error code in showing and this was the only way to get rid of the error code as it kept coming back within a few seconds when resetting the module 

    Thanks Donald 

On 9/2/2019 at 11:05 PM, mannd1 said:

 

blockquote widget

Finally managed to do a static regen not entirely convinced it's actually done it though temps didn't get as hot as others have suggested and nothing came out of the exhaust like most videos show it did complete with the success message etc so I'll keep an eye on it and routinely check the vaporiser fingers crossed that one issue delt with.

Thanks for all the detail in the above posts….I’ve read others too and all comes to the same point…..unblocking the vaporiser!

SPOLIER ALERT….I have a sneaky Pete solution that may save you a LOT of effort!

….but first….I had a blocked Vaporizer, did all the checks and was 100% certain. However, after much penetration oil, WD40 and a plumbers blow lamp I just couldn’t get the bu99er free.

Solution 1:

Off I went to my local independent garage bunged one of the guys a tenner and he get the blue tipped spanner (oxyacetylene), breaker bar and a lambda sensor socket out. Got it near white hot and added plenty of elbow grease the little sod creaked and squealed and out she came! The down side was the faces of the nut are sh4gged!  A blocked jet and body as expected but I decided to buy a new one anyway because of the nut.

Solution 2:

SNEAKY PETE TRICK!!!

having a sh4gged vaporizer to play with I tried what the mechanic said was a silly idea…..Grab a 12mm spanner and undo the glow plug! In fact it came out by hand with very little effort and much less WD40…maybe needs none. With the plug out, a little galvanised fencing wire (2mm) and a little poking from the glow plug end and I had carbon falling out nicely. After some good scraping down the sides and a 4mm carburettor brush (pipe cleaner) and I had the vaporizer body clean inside and the side jet opened up by putting a little bend on the end of the wire. Pop the glow plug back in and you’re off to the races again!
 

So in future, no need to remove the vaporizer just clean the inside having carefully removed the (5th) glow plug. Next time, that’s what I’ll do and it will take me 2-3 mins only!

happy trucking chaps!

Hi,

I have a 2011 2.2 ranger and having Soot accumulation codes and glow plug codes. Strange thing is no issues starting so glow plugs not an issue and no limp mode no change in driving at all, truck running fine but clear codes they come back, regen has been run a couple of times after using DPF cleaner and smokes like a gooden but still comes back with codes. Literally no idea. If it was having power issues it would make more sense but no change at all still runs lovely. So confused, please help :) 

Guys,

Can someone please help with a screen shot of PCM module configuration in forscan for a 2012-2015 3.2l ford ranger UK model with DPF system.(PCM is a SID208  in Australia not sure if the same in UK)

The reason for this is in Australia we did not have DPF fitted in our rangers until 2016 which is a different ECU (SID209) and also configuration is different for many differences in the car.

I'm trying to achieve EGT monitoring through my scan tool (lufi XS which i've integrated into my clock display section as I have an aftermarket head unit), my thoughts are loading up a UK config into my spare PCM (for testing) do a DPF delete if it works and use one of the 3 EGT temperature sensors (assuming its 3 like the Australian 2016 on models, EGT11 or EGT12 or EGT13)

I've tried testing the pids in forscan for EGT11,12 &13 on my spare SID208 PCM from a 2014 ranger with a 470 ohm load resistor across the pins (assuming its the same pins used as the Australian sid209 inputs as i dont have a UK wiring diagram) and the pid values did not change from the 1.60 volts with or without resistor so assuming its not configured in software in Australian PCM)

Forscan has the ability to load up chosen calibration files, strategy files etc so in theory I can test this on my bench first.