TomsFocus Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 You should always isolate the battery when carrying out major jobs in the engine bay. The injectors are electronically operated so no battery = no fuel. Also no chance of accidentally shorting something out with your ratchet handle. You will need to put in the radio code and reset the one-touch windows after the battery has been off (very easy, just press and hold window buttons). In theory it shouldn't start, the engine ECU shouldn't be active without the ignition on so no fuel, plus the immobiliser shouldn't let it try to start without the key in the ignition (unless you've got keyless start!), plus I doubt we'd be able to turn it over quickly enough anyway lol! I must admit, I didn't take the battery off because I hate losing the audio, mpg and window settings, but that doesn't make it right! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 3 minutes ago, TomsFocus said: You should always isolate the battery when carrying out major jobs in the engine bay. The injectors are electronically operated so no battery = no fuel. Also no chance of accidentally shorting something out with your ratchet handle. You will need to put in the radio code and reset the one-touch windows after the battery has been off (very easy, just press and hold window buttons). In theory it shouldn't start, the engine ECU shouldn't be active without the ignition on so no fuel, plus the immobiliser shouldn't let it try to start without the key in the ignition (unless you've got keyless start!), plus I doubt we'd be able to turn it over quickly enough anyway lol! I must admit, I didn't take the battery off because I hate losing the audio, mpg and window settings, but that doesn't make it right! I've got you. Cheers mate! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 Kept hearing intermittent belt squeal earlier...uh oh... Turned out to be the van I'd been playing cat and mouse with on the dual carriageway and not me at all... But there is a more worrying noise though, a metallic rattling ringing sort of noise from high up in the belt area when the engine was very hot, just got home from a fairly hard run. Not sure I've ever listened to it at that point before (as you have to remove the key to open the bonnet I never check straight after a run) so don't know if it's normal or not. Maybe even chain rattle? I think I will have to take the belt covers off on Friday and check the belt and set the tensioner correctly. I'll be constantly worrying about it otherwise lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 11 hours ago, TomsFocus said: Kept hearing intermittent belt squeal earlier...uh oh... Turned out to be the van I'd been playing cat and mouse with on the dual carriageway and not me at all... But there is a more worrying noise though, a metallic rattling ringing sort of noise from high up in the belt area when the engine was very hot, just got home from a fairly hard run. Not sure I've ever listened to it at that point before (as you have to remove the key to open the bonnet I never check straight after a run) so don't know if it's normal or not. Maybe even chain rattle? I think I will have to take the belt covers off on Friday and check the belt and set the tensioner correctly. I'll be constantly worrying about it otherwise lol. That's annoying mate. Hope you get it sorted! When you do set the tensioner, if you could update the thread with a bit more detail on how it's done, that'd help me out for when I attempt to tackle this job as I haven't quite understood the metal box thing and lining it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 I'll try to photo or video the tensioning but lack of arms and space may be an issue. Treated myself to one of these on the way home today... http://www.bmstores.co.uk/products/rolson-2-led-telescopic-inspection-mirror-307040 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 Right, did this this morning! Wasn't too bad but would've been impossible to see without the mirror. I would recommend doing it right first time. I jacked up one corner. Removed the wheel and arch liner. Removed aux belt. Impact gunned the crank pulley bolt off (saved dropping the undertray to fit the flywheel lock) and removed the pulley. Removed the lower cover and re tensioned. Bear with the pictures, it makes a bit more sense in the metal! But essentially as Ian said, the tab should sit perfectly in the window at the back, tab moves as you turn the tensioner with an Allan key. It was under tensioned to start with, probably because it moved when I torqued it. Then this is as close to the perfect setting as I could get it. Had the same issue as Issetta where the Allan hold wasn't really strong enough to hold as the bolt was torqued so didn't want to mess around with it. In the end I over tensioned it so that it would loosen slightly as I torqued it. It's probably 1mm above perfect now but near enough! Also found out what's making the awful metallic rattle... New aux belt seems to have ruined the tensioner lol. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Cheers Tom. Is an impact gun essential for the crank pulley bolt? At least you've got peace of mind now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 Not if you use the flywheel locking tool, the pulley bolt isn't particularly tight on these. Using the impact gun was pure laziness today, I just couldn't be bothered to jack up both sides and remove the undertray just to fit the locking tool. When doing the belt you need to raise both sides and remove the undertray to get a jack under the engine and drain the coolant so I wouldn't have saved any time using it first time, did it by hand then. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isetta Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 A warning about the aux belt tensioner wheel. Have you replaced it or are you living with it? My wife's Mk1 Focus 1.6 petrol had a noise which for sometime I could not work out what it was and only seemed to do it when engine cold. One day 100 miles from home on M1 a load of dash lights came on and car overheated. Pulled over, found aux belt had come off (on this engine the aux belt also drives the water pump hence why it overheated). tensioner wheel had melted. It seems what happened was the bearing jammed and the belt was therefore being dragged accross the stationary plastic tensioner wheel causing loads of heat until it melted and belt came off. Luckily I was In RAC and they brought the car home for me. Replaced the tensioner the next day. Annoyingly I could not buy just the wheel I had to buy the whole bracket thing with the spring loaded bit in it. About £45 I think it was (eurocarparts). I know this part is not identical part to yours. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted October 14, 2017 Author Share Posted October 14, 2017 I'll replace it next week, ordered a replacement this morning. Dayco one from mister-auto for £20. Exactly the same part is nearly £50 on ECP, even with weekend discount it's still a way off. I did look at just buying the wheel with bearing for £12 delivered but it didn't seem worth it as the spring is probably worn anyway, there's a lot more bounce in it than there was before. l also had a previous aux belt related incident. A cambelt I changed was taken out by a snapping aux belt just 5k miles later. The tensioner had seized solid and snapped the aux belt. I don't know whether there's a sudden jolt on the crank pulley as the belt breaks but it was common for the aux belt to take out the cambelt on the old 2.0 8v HDis. Fortunately being single cam the valves were vertical so a belt snapper would get away with just one or two new rocker arms. I did think about replacing the Focus tensioner when doing the cambelt but thought I'd save a few quid as it felt fine at the time, new belt must be putting it under more tension lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 Who designs this stuff!? With the aux tensioner at full 'droop' you can't get the middle bolt out. With the new tensioner locked you can't get the bottom bolt in! It's also difficult to pull it back from full droop with the engine mount in place as the spanner gets caught a couple of mm to soon. I thought it was going to be a 10 minute job! New one is in now though, hopefully there won't be any more noises! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Praada Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 Can you confirm is this is the same for the 2.0l tdci? Are the engines pretty much the same configuration? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 37 minutes ago, Praada said: Can you confirm is this is the same for the 2.0l tdci? Are the engines pretty much the same configuration? It's a different engine so locking pins, bolt sizes and torque settings may be different, but essentially the parts will all be in the same place yeah. The 2.0 is the same in that it uses a chain between the camshafts, so you've only got one cam to put the belt round which makes things a bit easier than other twin cam engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 On 07/10/2017 at 9:47 PM, TomsFocus said: Tighten to 30Nm + 180 degrees. Top tip, if you don't have an angle gauge, make a mark on the bolt head (this one already has one) and a mark/scratch on the pulley directly opposite Hey Tom. I've been re reading this thread several times and watching youtube videos (although there aren't many to chose from!) as I've decided to have a go at this. There's a couple of things I'm still unsure of and one of them is the above. What do you mean by tighten to 30nm + 180 degrees and what is an angle gauge? Btw, i picked up my Rolson Led mirror yesterday - funky little tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 There is a decent Youtube guide done by Dayco themselves showing the belt change on a CMax with the same engine, that ones worth a watch if you can find it, I only found it while looking for something unrelated after doing the belt myself lol! The crank pulley bolt is a stretch bolt (also known as torque to yield bolt) so it requires a certain angle of torque to be applied after the initial 'simple' torque setting. It's really only crank bolts and cylinder head bolts that use stretch bolts like this on cars. The bolt is physically stretched and deformed which is why they can only be used once and have to be replaced if removed. A torque angle gauge is exactly what it sounds like, basically a protractor with a socket adapter through the middle so you can accurately measure the angle. However, these gauges seem impossible to hold steady while tightening the bolt, as soon as it slips it becomes inaccurate. I've found it much easier to mark the bolt head (just scratch it with a screwdriver or whatever is to hand) at the top/North position. Then turn it the correct amount by eye...obviously 180 degrees is half a turn so that's an easy one to work out! When you think it's about right, just remove the socket to check the position of the scratch, you can keep tightening it in small segments to get it right, but just don't over do it as it shouldn't really be loosened off. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 I've seen the Dayco one and I've saved it along with the 'liamtheautomechanic' one on a hdi. The problem with the latter is you can hardly hear the blokes mumble lol. Ok, so I understand that a normal bolt stretches but within it's limits so when undone returns to normal. But a Stretch bolt is torqued to it's specification so in this case 30nm and then requires a 180 degree or half a turn to basically stretch and irreversibly deform the bolt. What benefit does it have over a standard bolt? Also why do they specify a torque setting then an angle? Why not just say 31nm? Is it that the margins are minuscule so the 30 nm is the safe torque setting so it won't be over tightened and then needs only gradual turns to stretch it and deform it but without breaking it? Have i got that right..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 Yeah the Irish mumbles of Liam the mechanic are always interesting! The bolt will be close to 150Nm after the 180 degree turn (rough guess, please don't use that figure lol). But you can't accurately measure the stretch with a torque wrench which is why the angle has to be added. The 30Nm finds the bolts 'normal' torque setting where it could be removed and reused without issue. The angle then puts the stretch into the bolt. Honestly I'm not totally sure what the point of it is! It's something to do with being preloaded (strained) to stop metal fatigue from heat cycles and vibrations I believe but I'm sure someone will correct that if it's wrong. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Cheers Tom. What I just don't understand though is how can the torque jump so high with only 180 degree turn after the snug tightening to 30nm? I just don't understand that because you're only turning the bolt a fraction more with a spanner...... Anyway, just coming back to the actual re fitting of the bolt and just to make sure I've got this right. You tighten the crankshaft pulley/sprocket bolt to 30nm. Mark it with a black pen, then turn it 180 degrees. Job done. Just had a look in haynes and it says 35nm for the snug torque, then the 180 degree turn. Is that right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 Remember torque is just a turning force. It takes a lot more effort (human arm torque) to get the bolt round that half turn than when it's finger tight. There is more friction from the threads the tighter it gets, especially as you stretch it, so it's not a linear 'quarter turn for 1Nm, half turn for 2Nm' sort of thing, it compounds... Yeah that's right, use the flywheel locking pin to hold the crank solid as you tighten the bolt. Then as you say 30Nm, mark at the top of the bolt then turn 180 degrees so the mark is at the bottom. Simple. Think I got my torque figure from a Ford guide, Haynes isn't always right. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 19 minutes ago, TomsFocus said: Remember torque is just a turning force. It takes a lot more effort (human arm torque) to get the bolt round that half turn than when it's finger tight. There is more friction from the threads the tighter it gets, especially as you stretch it, so it's not a linear 'quarter turn for 1Nm, half turn for 2Nm' sort of thing, it compounds.. Light bulb moment, I've got it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 Slowly accumulating the tools i need for the job. I've picked up a bargain set of drill bits with all the sizes i need. Now for the flywheel locking pin.... A drill bit is too long and i don't have a way of cutting one down so a bolt it will have to be. M12 x what would you suggest for length? One other question i have in regards to the tensioning and the lining up of the pointer. So you use an allen key to hold it in the correct place and then tighten the tensioner bolt to it's torque. How does having the pointer/window in the right place set the tension up exactly right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke4efc Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 I hate seeing how easy jobs like this are. It just encourages me even more to go out and buy a car that is ready for it doing and selling it on after for a little bit more. I really must organise my tools first. I probably spend half the job trying to find the right spanner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodgermart Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 Thanks Tom, This is a really thorough guide and the photo's are terrific, much appreciated. My 1.4 Fiesta is due a belt change and seeing I have most of the gear needed it's a goer for next summer. 1. Has anyone figured out why the fuel pump pulley is pinned for the timing sequence? 2. Is the crank pulley keyed or splined onto the crankshaft or just bolted on a plain shaft? Cranking a diesel by hand sounds a bit iffy because a diesel engine fires on compression, just saying! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 16 hours ago, bodgermart said: Thanks Tom, This is a really thorough guide and the photo's are terrific, much appreciated. My 1.4 Fiesta is due a belt change and seeing I have most of the gear needed it's a goer for next summer. 1. Has anyone figured out why the fuel pump pulley is pinned for the timing sequence? 2. Is the crank pulley keyed or splined onto the crankshaft or just bolted on a plain shaft? Cranking a diesel by hand sounds a bit iffy because a diesel engine fires on compression, just saying! fuel pump pulley has a locking hole which I used but its not timed (as far as I know) the crank pully is keyed. Its actually simple to do, once you get to it, that's the hardest part with this engine. turning the crank by hand wont cause you any bother, nothing will cook off, no fuel is being injected. cranking by hand is a big must to make sure its all sweet. as an added step I counted the teeth between points on the pulleys, so when I turned it a couple of times, she was bang on perfect on the first attempt. Just remember to take the fly wheel locking pin out before cranking it over :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodgermart Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Thanks Darren, Like your idea of counting the belt teeth between pulleys, any extra checks have to be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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