TomsFocus Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 Sorry, missed the latest replies somehow! Flywheel locking pin needs to be about 3 inches long I guess, will try to remember to measure the proper one tomorrow though. Tensioning makes sense when you actually see it. But basically there's a spring inside the tensioner, as you turn it, you put the spring under more strain which pulls the pointer around. So at the correct amount of tension, the pointer is in the window, then hold it still and torque the bolt. Luke, sadly it doesn't work, the logistics of buying and moving cars is difficult now with non transferable tax and ridiculously expensive day insurance, that's assuming it's got MOT. Car couriers also cost daft money now, looking at £3 a mile or so...then there's the space and time... Plus eBay fees for selling and the unexpected parts. And these cars are old now, margins are tiny. I have been trying to do something like that myself. I used to privately a few years ago, but just can't do it these days. Bodger, the fuel pump is locked for a reason...but no one seems to quite know why! I have read it's to do with the balance of the 'surges' as each of the pump pistons fire, which can affect the smooth running of the engine but never have found a solid answer! The crank pulley is keyed on these engines, it's just some of the petrols where it isn't. As Darren says, there's no fuel unless the ECU tells the injectors to fire...as long as you don't have the ignition on there should be no issue turning it over by hand. Plus trying to overcome the compression of a diesel takes some effort, I'd be impressed if you could turn it over quick enough by hand to start it anyway! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 11 hours ago, TomsFocus said: Sorry, missed the latest replies somehow! Flywheel locking pin needs to be about 3 inches long I guess, will try to remember to measure the proper one tomorrow though. Tensioning makes sense when you actually see it. But basically there's a spring inside the tensioner, as you turn it, you put the spring under more strain which pulls the pointer around. So at the correct amount of tension, the pointer is in the window, then hold it still and torque the bolt. You're a legend mate, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted December 5, 2017 Author Share Posted December 5, 2017 2 hours ago, Albert27 said: You're a legend mate, thanks! The tool shaft is 53mm, plus a 20mm grip to hold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 17 hours ago, TomsFocus said: Bodger, the fuel pump is locked for a reason...but no one seems to quite know why! I have read it's to do with the balance of the 'surges' as each of the pump pistons fire, which can affect the smooth running of the engine but never have found a solid answer! See, I'm not all that sure that makes sense either, at least on a common rail. the pressure is uniform across all injectors which fire at different times, id be very surprised if there is any meaningful or even measurable drop in pressure at the point of firing and lets face it, you don't buy a TDCI for "smooth running" lol on a good day she still sounds like a tractor :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted December 5, 2017 Author Share Posted December 5, 2017 As I say, I haven't found a solid answer yet. I would like to know as well lol! Anyone fancy calling the premium rate Ford number and asking them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 21 minutes ago, TomsFocus said: As I say, I haven't found a solid answer yet. I would like to know as well lol! Anyone fancy calling the premium rate Ford number and asking them? errr... No :D Not really the kinda thing you want to experiment with either. just lock it and be happy its fine :) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 7 hours ago, TomsFocus said: The tool shaft is 53mm, plus a 20mm grip to hold. M12 x 80 should do it then....that's quite a long bolt though, have i understood you right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted December 6, 2017 Author Share Posted December 6, 2017 15 hours ago, Albert27 said: M12 x 80 should do it then....that's quite a long bolt though, have i understood you right? That'll probably be too long, I'd go with an M12x60 if they make that size? Don't want the overall length inc bolt head to be more than the whole proper tool due to the tight access (so 73mm max). But needs to have 53mm inside the gearbox/flywheel at least. The bolt head is what, 5mm? So 60mm should be long enough without being too long. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 On 06/12/2017 at 9:48 AM, TomsFocus said: That'll probably be too long, I'd go with an M12x60 if they make that size? Don't want the overall length inc bolt head to be more than the whole proper tool due to the tight access (so 73mm max). But needs to have 53mm inside the gearbox/flywheel at least. The bolt head is what, 5mm? So 60mm should be long enough without being too long. Thanks Tom. I've ordered the bolts inc the stretch one for the crankshaft (got it on carparts4less for £3.64). I've bought some new ratchet stands & sill protectors (SGS engineering 4 ton, for £20, good pre christmas deal if anyone's interested with lifetime warranty and backup locking pin) and drill bits. Now I've just got to order the main parts which i will do soon and then figure a time to do the job (I'll be allowing 2-4 days so there's no rush and I've got time to get help if i need it or parts/tools i may need). I intend to start a new thread to document my journey (and stupidity) along the way but one last thing i need some advice on before i do.....the engine needs supporting when I undo the right side engine mount. A block of hardwood, what size? I don't have wood lying around so unless anyone has some cheaper option i'll be off to travis perkins to get what i need. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 I bet there will be hundreds of builders skips on your commute full of scrap wood... The wood is just to spread the load between the jack abd the sump so it doesn't need to be massively thick or strong but avoid crumbly wood like chipboard. Only needs to be the size of the sump, any larger and it'll get in the way, fortunately wood is easy to shorten lol! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 On 07/10/2017 at 9:47 PM, TomsFocus said: You may chose to use some gasket sealer as belt and braces Did you use any Tom and what are your thoughts on whether this is necessary? Something like hylomar blue? I've also heard mention when i've been watching videos of using timing marks (literally putting a tippex mark somewhere) - is this really needed as surely the timing holes are the 'marks'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 8 minutes ago, Albert27 said: Did you use any Tom and what are your thoughts on whether this is necessary? Something like hylomar blue? I've also heard mention when i've been watching videos of using timing marks (literally putting a tippex mark somewhere) - is this really needed as surely the timing holes are the 'marks'? I didn't use any this time. But have done on previous water pumps. I wouldn't say it's necessary, but it's the sort of thing I'd add if it was to hand, but not worry about if I hadn't got any. I haven't used Hylomar blue so can't comment on that, used Loctite or Granville. As long as it can withstand water, antifreeze, temperature and pressure it should be fine. I think the idea of the tipex is to put a mark across the old belt and each sprocket, then count the teeth between the marks so you know the new belt has gone on perfectly. But I just make sure its tight around everything except the tensioner and haven't gone wrong doing that so far. As you say, everything is pinned on these engines so there's no need to mark across the sprocket and engine block. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonemotions Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 Seeing this guy has made the process seem a lot simpler and more comprehensive than the Haynes manual so great work for putting it together. I am just looking at getting the parts all together as I haven't been able to find anywhere that stocks the Dayco kit you purchased, therefore thought I would go as per those originally fitted: Aux Belt (Dayco) - https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/dayco/223533 Water pump (Pierburg) - https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/pierburg/10123880 Timing Belt Deflection/Guide Pulley (INA) - https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/ina/7011553 Timing Belt (Dayco) - https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/dayco/7202042 However there are two types of INA Crankshaft Pulley Tensioners that it says is compatible with my vehicle https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/ina/2385736 - Round https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/ina/7883231 - Oval Does anyone have any idea which one would be required? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 Hi Ben, Apart from the price, I can't see any difference between those two tensioners myself, if you're referring to the picture, both parts are round just taken at different angles. Just so there's no confusion, they are timing belt tensioners and nothing to do with the crankshaft pulley. There are several of the Dayco kit on eBay which is cheapest. Or mister auto here http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/timing-belt-kit-with-water-pump/dayco-ktbwp9590_g3096_a042KTBWP9590.html?av_notify=1&KTypeNr=8039 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zain611 Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 Checked my timing belt a few weeks back when doing the injectors as I can't trust the previous owner for saying he did it. Thankfully looks in good condition. You can see the red labeling meaning it has been done but can't say by the previous owner. Could look at the water pump now that you showed its location but have to see. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the goat Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 great write up, hopefully getting a 1.6 diesel fiesta for my lad, so this will be very helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zain611 Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 16 minutes ago, the goat said: great write up, hopefully getting a 1.6 diesel fiesta for my lad, so this will be very helpful Make sure it has full service history and has been serviced regularly. Theres a oil feed pipe which can get blocked up if you don't keep up with oil changes or use the wrong oil. If it gets blocked then the turbo can go as it would get starved of oil. Here's a few pics of taking my one out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 Just to further compliment this brilliant guide by @TomsFocus, I found this on youtube today. I'm just refreshing my memory as my Timing Belt DIY change is Scheduled for May! Same engine even though it's a Peugeot 308....best video I've found on it to date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonemotions Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Another big thanks from me @TomsFocus as your guide really helped out and getting my cam/aux belt changed last weekend. Had I have not had the guide I would of probably saved my Saturday and had someone else do it; but as a consolation I got to save money, which was more important. 300 miles on, belt seems good As mine was the mk3 there appeared to be some slight difference but overall was the same. Only thing that was a pain when I went to previously do it was that I couldn't find the flywheel locking pin hole, and after having a read through my haynes manual I found that I had to get a flywheel locking tool. The unfortunate part to this method of locking the flywheel is that the starter motor needs to be removed, which also meant the airbag and battery also had to come out . For anyone that might fumble with getting the starter motor off, there are two bolts you have to remove when your working form the top, and one from the bottom. The two from the top are shown in the attached picture. You just need to pop the cover off the 11mm one. The location is to the left of where the battery is (but on the right hand side of the engine block, when looking at the car head on) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonemotions Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 The fuel pump locking hole on the mk3 is not really a hole which threw me off. I put the pin in place after rotating the engine loads of times to make sure where I lined it up to kept repeating. I have attached the images of what my locking pins looked like below. Additionally I have attached a bit in the haynes manual about needing to lock the fuel pump if it makes sense to anyone else as this was discussed earlier in the thread about the need for actually locking it. One additional thing that I had to think about, was after removing the 4 motor mount bolts from the block, the motor mount still wouldn't wiggle free. The two sprung studs (arrowed) were holding it on; couple of soft love taps later with a mallet and it came off. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igol Posted May 11, 2019 Share Posted May 11, 2019 A bit of a bump for this useful thread to add I had the same issue with locating my locking hole. Hole was right where it should be above the cat/dpf but no matter what size drill bit I stuck in the hole I couldn't get it to slide in and there was no suggestion that there is a slot. After a bit of swearing and considering the 'Land Rover method' of removing the bolt (stick a ratchet on and flick the engine on and off, but decided against that as its a power button) I managed to locate the two holes for the proper locking tool at that back of the crank. Handily these are about the same size as the pins on a grinder spanner so wedging that against the starter I managed to crack the nut that way. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky1989 Posted May 16, 2019 Share Posted May 16, 2019 Is this guide the same for a 1.6tdci mk6 fiesta? Would be looking to do this some point in the near future. Are the torque settings all the Same or slightly different? Watched numerous amout of videos on this. @TomsFocus @iantt Noticed you guys on a few threads have had a lot of input for these engines any extra info would be amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted May 16, 2019 Author Share Posted May 16, 2019 48 minutes ago, ricky1989 said: Is this guide the same for a 1.6tdci mk6 fiesta? Would be looking to do this some point in the near future. Are the torque settings all the Same or slightly different? Watched numerous amout of videos on this. @TomsFocus @iantt Noticed you guys on a few threads have had a lot of input for these engines any extra info would be amazing. The belt change and torque settings should be the same on the Mk6. Access is just a bit tighter with it being a smaller bay. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky1989 Posted May 16, 2019 Share Posted May 16, 2019 Just noticed the Haynes manual on mine says rotate by hand 12 times for holes to line back up to check correct timing. Hmmm 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted May 16, 2019 Author Share Posted May 16, 2019 19 minutes ago, ricky1989 said: Just noticed the Haynes manual on mine says rotate by hand 12 times for holes to line back up to check correct timing. Hmmm 🤔 As long as it lines up eventually it's alright... I hope you're good at ratios... The cam and crank will line up every 2nd rotation, but the fuel pump is only every 3*. So the first time they'll all line up is on the 6th rotation. You're meant to do it twice so that makes it 12 times. You'll lose count before then anyway. *The fuel pump might only be 2.5, which would make it 10 rotations as I put in the guide. But I honestly couldn't tell you, I lost count at the time, it doesn't matter as long as they do all line up eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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