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Basic Cambelt Change Guide - Mk2.5 Focus 1.6 TDCi


TomsFocus
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Perfect get what you mean now. Got a doner car to test on so can be confident when I do on my own. If it goes pop i will take mine to garage Haha. Thats confidence for ya 😂. Thankyou for this great guide. Makes the job look so easy. Cant wait to get stuck in. 👍 

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6 hours ago, TomsFocus said:
6 hours ago, ricky1989 said:

 

As long as it lines up eventually it's alright...  I hope you're good at ratios... :wink:  The cam and crank will line up every 2nd rotation, but the fuel pump is only every 3*.  So the first time they'll all line up is on the 6th rotation.  You're meant to do it twice so that makes it 12 times.  You'll lose count before then anyway. :laugh:

*Or if your name's Albert, the fuel pump never lined up at all 😄 

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5 hours ago, ricky1989 said:

Perfect get what you mean now. Got a doner car to test on so can be confident when I do on my own. If it goes pop i will take mine to garage Haha. Thats confidence for ya 😂. Thankyou for this great guide. Makes the job look so easy. Cant wait to get stuck in. 👍 

If I can do it, you can definitely!  Good luck!

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Completed the cam belt change today on the 1.4 tdci doner car had a few swearing moments. But was the best feeling when it started first time. Bliss. Thankyou so much for this guide just saved me over 400 quid took me about 6 hours in total doing alot of breaking off for dinner, drinks and searching for parts. Bought a 12mm drill bit for the flywheel and grinded it down but still wouldnt fit as I realised some same size drill bits have different size shafts 😂 (wasted 5er) also broke my grinder disk so couldn't cut anything else down to size lol. Luckily after some searching found a bolt that fit so snug. Got soaked in coolant Haha. But I'm now wiser and more confident to tackle the 1.6zs tdci.

 

Cheers guys 👍

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  • 4 months later...

Just picked up a Dayco timing belt kit for a 2009 1.6tdci. No water pump in the kit?

It cost £64, so I've been ripped off by Euro Car Parts?

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53 minutes ago, Rich237 said:

Just picked up a Dayco timing belt kit for a 2009 1.6tdci. No water pump in the kit?

It cost £64, so I've been ripped off by Euro Car Parts?

It depends which kit you buy.  I don't remember ECP offering the pump inclusive kit, only the belt and tensioner kit.  Mister-auto and eBay sell the Dayco kit with waterpump included for about £80.

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14 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

It depends which kit you buy.  I don't remember ECP offering the pump inclusive kit, only the belt and tensioner kit.  Mister-auto and ebay sell the Dayco kit with waterpump included for about £80.

Yes, done some more Googling. Very annoying that ECP only sells the kit without the water pump! Will take it back.

The Dayco code is KTB914 and their kit with the pump is KTBWP9140

The Gates kit even includes the crankshaft bolt, which ECP charge another £7 for.

So ECP want £107 for the timing belt kit, water pump and bolt, with the discount code applied.

amazon will do next day delivery for the Gates kit for £75. Quite a bit less. Not sure if Dayco is much better than Gates?

amazon sell the Dayco kit with pump for £75 delivered.

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1 hour ago, Rich237 said:

 

Yes, done some more Googling. Very annoying that ECP only sells the kit without the water pump! Will take it back.

The Dayco code is KTB914 and their kit with the pump is KTBWP9140

The Gates kit even includes the crankshaft bolt, which ECP charge another £7 for.

So ECP want £107 for the timing belt kit, water pump and bolt, with the discount code applied.

Amazon will do next day delivery for the Gates kit for £75. Quite a bit less. Not sure if Dayco is much better than Gates?

Amazon sell the Dayco kit with pump for £75 delivered.

Both Dayco and Gates belts will be good quality so it's up to you really.  With those options I'd go for Gates to get the new crank bolt as well.  But do check it's a quality waterpump included instead of just a cheap unbranded item.

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Just completed mine. Many thanks Tom, your guide was very helpful.

Might add a few of my own pics showing some of the more hidden bolts...

My car has 150k on, 2009 and the belt was perfect. No cracks anywhere. The aux belt was shot, so good job I changed anyway.

 

Pretty easy job really, biggest issue I had was getting the timing belt covers back on. Very fiddly. Especailly with the interlocking fit around the engine mount.

Don't mind if I never see another 7mm bolt ever again!

Seems that mordern cars like odd metric sized bolts like 16mm and 18mm, so if you have a bog standard socket set, make sure you have these sizes. Mine were all 15mm, 17mm then 19mm so had to go hunting for a 16mm and 18mm.

Also, don't pop off the water pump and think that the red sealant is all that seals it. I was busy scraping all that red stuff off when I realised that there is a metal gasket with red sealant on both sides of it! So pop the pump off using the handy lug to prise it off, then take the metal gasket off, then clean up the face of the block ready for the new pump.

Oh and don't get all excited when you finish and forget to take out the crank lock bolt before trying to start the engine... Doh!

 

I found that the camshaft lock was 8mm on my 2009 mk2.5.

Getting the belt back on is a little tricky as you do need to get it pretty tight on the crank to camshaft side, in order to have enough belt to get the other side on.

 

Other than that, all good.

 

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5 hours ago, Rich237 said:

Seems that mordern cars like odd metric sized bolts like 16mm and 18mm

Umm, those would be even metric sized bolts...

🤣🙂 

Congrats on the success though. My MK3 is getting towards 90k and I'm starting to think it's about time...

Not sure if I could handle it myself though. Brakes and little things are no problem, but I've never really screwed around with the engine.

Perhaps if there's a guide like this for the MK3 I'd be brave...!

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9 hours ago, Phil21185 said:

Umm, those would be even metric sized bolts...

🤣🙂 

Congrats on the success though. My MK3 is getting towards 90k and I'm starting to think it's about time...

Not sure if I could handle it myself though. Brakes and little things are no problem, but I've never really screwed around with the engine.

Perhaps if there's a guide like this for the MK3 I'd be brave...!

I'm pretty sure the mk3 is almost identical to the mk2 Phil when it comes to the belt.  I've got a feeling though that you need a locking tool to lock the flywheel?  Tom will know for sure but I don't think you can just use a drill bit in that hole next to the sump like you can on the mk2.

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8 minutes ago, Albert27 said:

I'm pretty sure the mk3 is almost identical to the mk2 Phil when it comes to the belt.  I've got a feeling though that you need a locking tool to lock the flywheel?  Tom will know for sure but I don't think you can just use a drill bit in that hole next to the sump like you can on the mk2.

It's @iantt you'd need to ask tbh, I haven't done a mk3!  As the belt on the 16v's doesn't include the second cam (chain between the cams) the route is probably the same on the 8v engines but torques and locking might be a bit different.

@Phil21185 there will amost certainly be YouTube video guides on the 8v engines now, they've been out for nearly a decade, and a lot will have passed the 125k interval.

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5 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

 

@Phil21185 there will amost certainly be YouTube video guides on the 8v engines now, they've been out for nearly a decade, and a lot will have passed the 125k interval.

A little off topic, but there's a couple of videos on Youtube of a chap doing a rebuild of a 1.6 petrol engine, who has already managed to break off the tip of the timing/crank locking pin and hasn't managed to get the crank bolt out yet!. Luckily he had the engine fully out of the car (rebuilding obviously), so not much of an issue. Interesting to watch from the perspective of someone who's done the job, but didn't encounter all the little issues others encountered.

On 9/27/2019 at 4:48 PM, Rich237 said:

Just picked up a Dayco timing belt kit for a 2009 1.6tdci. No water pump in the kit?

It cost £64, so I've been ripped off by Euro Car Parts?

I paid £30 for mine, make sure you use discount codes with ECP, and if you want stuff delivered instead of collection, order from Carparts4less.co.uk instead (Just use the ECP item number if you can't find it on CP4L). They normally come out cheaper too - with their own discount codes used obviously!

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3 hours ago, Micro said:

A little off topic, but there's a couple of videos on Youtube of a chap doing a rebuild of a 1.6 petrol engine, who has already managed to break off the tip of the timing/crank locking pin and hasn't managed to get the crank bolt out yet!. Luckily he had the engine fully out of the car (rebuilding obviously), so not much of an issue. Interesting to watch from the perspective of someone who's done the job, but didn't encounter all the little issues others encountered.

I paid £30 for mine, make sure you use discount codes with ECP, and if you want stuff delivered instead of collection, order from Carparts4less.co.uk instead (Just use the ECP item number if you can't find it on CP4L). They normally come out cheaper too - with their own discount codes used obviously!

Savage Garage?  I'm also a subscriber 😂

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Savage Garage?  I'm also a subscriber [emoji23]

That's it! Some cracking videos, can't wait for the next one (I hope he sticks the flywheel back on and uses a locking tool or another contraption to undo that crank bolt).

 

 

Edit: He does! So glad mine didn't ever have to come apart to that extent!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 9/28/2019 at 11:18 PM, Phil21185 said:

Umm, those would be even metric sized bolts...

🤣🙂 

Congrats on the success though. My MK3 is getting towards 90k and I'm starting to think it's about time...

Not sure if I could handle it myself though. Brakes and little things are no problem, but I've never really screwed around with the engine.

Perhaps if there's a guide like this for the MK3 I'd be brave...!

😂 Yes those unusual even sized metric bolts. Not the usual odd sized metric bolts... 🤪

Few hundred miles on and nothings gone bang or leaked. We'll call it a success...

I have an MX5 to do next.... Apparently there is no crank locking bolt hole, you have to put the car in gear and stand on the brakes while undoing the crank pulley bolt.

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1 hour ago, Rich237 said:

😂 Yes those unusual even sized metric bolts. Not the usual odd sized metric bolts... 🤪

Few hundred miles on and nothings gone bang or leaked. We'll call it a success...

I have an MX5 to do next.... Apparently there is no crank locking bolt hole, you have to put the car in gear and stand on the brakes while undoing the crank pulley bolt.

Nah, just back it into a wall and leave it in reverse! 🙂

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Nah, just back it into a wall and leave it in reverse! [emoji846]
Or a flywheel holding tool ;)

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

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Well local trusted wanted £360 for the job. It's probably about right, but a bit more than I was expecting so might have to give this a go. 

I understand the theory, but am terrified of ***** up the daily driver (only car we have).

Am thinking as long as locking tools are used, and the engine is cranked by hand after reassembly with everything lining up again, there should be no problems, right?

I have stuff like a trolley jack so can support the engine if a mount needs taking off, and regular hand tools like sockets etc.

So the kit should come with belt, tensioner, idler, crank bolt, water pump and gasket?

Anything else I should know??

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  • 2 months later...

Excellent write up and photos. Have now changed my timing belt,  first time its been done,  85000 miles and 12 years. Runs smoother now, hoping to get better than 51mpg, 1.6 tdci estate 90hp ( no DPF 😊).

Took me 5 hours inc  T breaks and reading the instructions.

Fwheel lock pin 12mm

Cam 8mm

Fuel pump 6.5mm ( tight fit)

Crank position pin 5mm. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THIS AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR THE FLYWHEEL LOCK PIN. 

Just got the car so going through little jobs to be done.

ON another point I was surprised to see the gbox oil should be GL4 type. Hope it's not been run on gl5, and done the bushes in. It's not the smoothest of ford Xboxes.

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  • 2 years later...

Great guide - will search for the flywheel locking pin orifice! Better than the last ford I did where you remove the plug above alternator to put the crank lock pin in!

Just wanted to say thanks tho as hadn't realised the flywheel bolt was a stretch bolt or whatever so have managed to order one which will hopefully be here by the weekend which is when I was planning on swapping my belt.

So cost me a fiver but saved my the possibility of the crank bolt giving way in service when I'd put it back.

Thanks

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2 minutes ago, bantam_dave21 said:

Great guide - will search for the flywheel locking pin orifice! Better than the last ford I did where you remove the plug above alternator to put the crank lock pin in!

Just wanted to say thanks tho as hadn't realised the flywheel bolt was a stretch bolt or whatever so have managed to order one which will hopefully be here by the weekend which is when I was planning on swapping my belt.

So cost me a fiver but saved my the possibility of the crank bolt giving way in service when I'd put it back.

Thanks

I also intend to do the following and this may be covered in pages 2 & 3 ( I skipped to last page to add my thanks)

I always used to do two full rotations of the engine by hand once tensioned up etc and put the crank lock back in whatever method that was and would then normally expect the other pins to slide in lovely before I start putting cover back etc and always good to know nothing has jumped or moved where it shouldn't have!

Thanks again from the great guide.

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Is the pump locking pin meant to be sloppy? I’ve tried every size of drill bit and it’s just not as positive as I perhaps expect it might be….

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31 minutes ago, bantam_dave21 said:

Is the pump locking pin meant to be sloppy? I’ve tried every size of drill bit and it’s just not as positive as I perhaps expect it might be….

The pump isn't technically timed on a common rail so no one seems to know why it needs locking at all really.  I vaguely recall that pin being a bit loose but the memory is hazy after 4.5 years!  As long as the cam and crack are locked solid, I wouldn't worry about the pump too much.

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Yea the rest were fine and I thought the same as it’s only HP pump isn’t it. Few rotations by hand and it all slots back in lovely. Will rub it up soon hopefully (famous last words)

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