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Fiesta struggling to start and then sounds very rough and starts lightly shaking


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I have a 64 plate Fiesta Ecoboost 1.0 with 13,500 miles on the clock.

Last night I noticed a slight clicking sounds(It sounded like a diesel engine and I thought it was the van behind me at first) coming from the engine whilst inside the car when It was idling at lights. When I got to my destination I realised it was coming from my car. I turned the car off and came back 20 mins later. When I turned the car back on it struggled to start and almost didn't - I could feel the car lightly shaking but the revs where on zero. I tried turning the car on again, it still struggled (like the battery was low) but this time it worked. As it was idling it felt very rough and I could feel the car shaking. I thought the engine was going to stall/cutout. I gave it some revs and it seems ok but something was definately wrong. Driving it home was fine above 2000rpm and the car was pulling well but at lights/idling it felt like it was going to cut out again.

By the time I got home 10 mins later, the engine sounded like a diesel - it sounded a lot rougher and louder and also had a strange clicking sound.

I tried it again this morning and it really struggled to start, again like a low battery, but got there first time. Also the engine tickover sounded rough and even louder than the day before.

The car has been fine over the last two years that I have owned it and I only had it serviced two weeks ago.

Ive looked around and this thread sounds the most simmilar to my issue.

As I said, I checked out the car this morning and the engine looks as expected - nothing is loose etc. Im wondering if I am hearing a misfire and wondering if changing the sparkplugs/ignition coil could fix the issue?

Ive had no issues with the battery at all in the past and it could be low on power but could a low powered battery cause a misfire?

I took a video of the sound but Im not sure if I can upload video on this site. Im hoping its fixable though as my car is just out of warranty.

Id really appreciate some guidance on this. Im not a mechanic but Id love to have a go at fixing this myself rather than getting ford to look at it.



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Need to use Google buddy but In your defence the batteries only usually last 3yr but this is normal but a bit more research would be helpful I answer these questions like eating hot dinners now and getting bored of the same food....


If revs are on 0 it means your car hasn't started 


It's revs 1,000-1,200 standard if not warmed up  and 800rpm when warmed up


.... It's a 3cylinder... It's gonna vibrate to fek and for the ticking it will be the HPFP bud its normal if it was running on 2 cylinders your misfiring you would know 😂 as that's a third of the engine ....


Reason it's struggling to start and ticking is louder is car is cold.... You are meant to push the ignition on for about 5-10s before so the fuel pump can pump fuel into the car before you try and start the car 


The item you referred to the other post was 2011 before the 1.0l came out so irrelevant 

Reason it struggles under 2k revs as it's turbo only kicks in around 1.5k-1.7k revs so power only comes into play after this and depends if your in the right gear say your in 5th at 30mph it's no gonna have power 


Everything you mentioned has been brought up in every fiesta forum or Facebook since the 1.0l came out my cars on 45k 13plate no issues here and mines been a classic 1.0 engine from start with all of this haha

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6 hours ago, BoopBoop said:

it sounded a lot rougher and louder and also had a strange clicking sound.

If the new noise is pinking, or detonation, then it will do serious damage to the engine if it continues.

Pinking can be caused by incorrect (usually weak) air/fuel mixture, incorrect ignition timing or poor spark, or insufficient EGR flow in engines designed to use EGR fully. (Reducing oxygen concentration allows higher compression ratios or better optimised spark timing, by avoiding detonation.)

For diagnosis, the first step would be an in-depth scan for error codes in the ECU, and then using the real time read-out capabilities of a diagnostic system to try to narrow down the cause.

Unfortunately, the 1L ecoboost is a very complex engine, and there a quite a few possible causes: Like faulty O2 sensors, crank sensor, vacuum system leaks (allowing excess air in), bad spark plugs, HT leads or coil pack. And probably quite a few more.

If plugs have not been changed in 13.5k miles, that is always a good idea.

If it is turning over slowly when cranking, then definitely test the battery. Some battery faults can allow excess ripple from the alternator onto the system, and that could upset the ECU a bit. Usually there will be error codes stored if the system voltages are wrong. Batteries can suddenly go wrong, I had one that died completely in the space of one short journey.

battery voltages are 12v to 12.8v when engine is off, and 13.6v to 14.5v when running and recovered from starting. But this does not fully test the battery: you need to see how it copes with a load like headlights on with engine stopped, and how quickly it recovers when charged. If the voltage jumps up and down between these values too quickly, then it is duff, even if the basic voltages are correct. Or use a proprietary battery tester.


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