Focus 2013 ecoboost flat battery

[Fixitdaily]

Hi, please forgive me any ***** ups - this is my first post. Im willing to learn 

I have a 2013 focus Ecoboost. It has 34K on the clock. I gather after doing a google search and some detective work that 2013 was a pretty bad year for focus electrics - at least im not alone. 

battery goes flat after approx. a week., sometimes less. Ive researched this until im sick to the back teeth. The car unfortunately spends long periods without being driven and i appreciate that this carries its own risks. The battery is new, tests okay etc, the alternator is working correctly. 

Carrying out some long term amp draw readings (like over 2 days 3 nights continual ) i appear to get an average of 50mA draw or so when the cars  " asleep" - it seems to take 30mins for the car to shut down correctly - up until then something seems to draw 2amps. ( doors locks bonnet up but ive flicked the bonnet catch across so its "shut" Then, occasionally without any warning the car briefly spikes to drawing 300mA - i can never catch it in the act, and so cant do a voltage drop test across the fuses - annoying. But the meter records spikes 

• Firstly - whats the design battery draw when resting ? rule of thumb is 35-50mA but is there an actual spec ? 
• The voltage quality module seems to draw power for quite a long time until it eventually shuts down ( 40 mins or so ) is this normal it seems to draw 2 amps, sometimes none and this is without even starting the car. 
• Ive pulled the bluetooth system fuse - no change 
• the interior lights ive manually turned off - no change 
• radio receiver fuse pulled - no change 
• no fault codes or running issues - everything seems to work 

My only plan now is to carry out the same test with various systems deactivated via the fuse 

the internet is awash with miss information about this - people suggesting this and that. Whats the real most likely cause ? 

Even 50mA seems alot - thats over 1.2 amps in 24 hrs, thats 8.4amps a week - 

 

thanks guys - Ben 

 

 

[Tdci-Peter]

2 hours ago, Fixitdaily said:

• Ive pulled the bluetooth system fuse - no change 
• the interior lights ive manually turned off - no change 
• radio receiver fuse pulled - no change 

With any modules connected to a CAN bus (radios and BT modules are prime suspects), I would disconnect them entirely from the car, make sure the bus is not connected. In theory, a powered down electronic module with a CAN bus interface should not interfere with the bus, but a lot of stuff is very badly designed, especially all the gadgets and gizmos on modern cars.

Any interference with the CAN busses can prevent major modules like the ECU and BCM from shutting down properly, so they will draw current. Thus the current draw can be due to a fault somewhere else entirely. It is an unfortunate effect of the interconnected electronics. A typical symptom of this is the odometer LCD on the IC (instrument cluster) staying lit all the time.

There is a Mk3 Focus wiring diagram on this site, that gives some idea of what is on what bus.

https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=42086

[Fixitdaily]

Thank you for your advice - would do say that on this model of car a draw on 50-60 mA “normal” - my battery drain times are much quicker so I’m hunting a larger sporadic draw 300mA by the look of it 

[Tdci-Peter]

9 hours ago, Fixitdaily said:

would do say that on this model of car a draw on 50-60 mA “normal” - my battery drain times are much quicker so I’m hunting a larger sporadic draw 300mA by the look of it 

I often leave my car for several days, up to 6. I am fairly sure the drain over that time is a lot less than 50mA, that would be over 7AH in 6 days, and my battery has lasted 5 years now with no sign of slow cranking. So 50mA is high, and 300mA would be very high.

It can take quite a long time to settle to lowest current. For example the central locking receiver switches to a lower power standby intermittent state at some stage, it is a bit slower responding to the key from this state. It can be very hard to find the real culprit. There have been a lot of threads about this. The radio is the top of the list. One partial solution is to get a solar charger, if the car is parked outdoors.

[iantt]

from what i remember 20 Ma was fairly normal reading.  with vehicle locked it took upwards of 45mins to go to sleep properly. 

have you got the correct battery fitted? 

[Fixitdaily]

I appreciate the feedback guys, but wondered where i could obtain actual ford figures for permissible battery drain whilst "asleep" - 

I know that " as a rule of thumb", "im pretty sure", "i think" is quite helpful, and in many respects i agree, but modern cars and modern CAN system sometimes draw a bizarre amount of power at rest and I've read figures that are just ridiculous for other manufacturers but are perfectly within spec - but yes i agree 50mA sounds on the high side.

 

battery is a brand new unit, supplied by local ford main agent ( varta battery with a ford sticker ) 60AH 

 

Anyway, after continuing testing today - method of leaving gauge attached recording high, low and average and "disabling" systems via fuse removal ( yes i know as per previous post fuse removal isn't a sure fire way to disable a can component ) -  

• Interior motion sensor fuse - no change 
• Alarm back up battery and OBD fuse - no change 
• bluetooth, infotainment system fuse - no change 
• Voltage quality module - no change 
• Instrument cluster - 50mA average for well over 6 hours 

Now, all the other systems within that 6 hour test period ( this period begins when car has fully fallen "asleep", which does take 30-45mins ) - the other readings had spiked at 300mA on average. Until the cars fully "asleep" it seems to draw 1-2amps on average - then after 30-45mins it drops to the 50mA average ( ignoring the intermittent fault that is )

So, the questions are - 

1. Where can i obtain a ford spec for permissible battery draw - just in the interest of accuracy 
2. Have you seen, heard, or experienced issues with the instrument cluster not shutting down correctly 
3. is this a hardware issue, OR would it require software update / reset or similar ? 

 

Strange one ay - but i think the noose is tightening now

 

Ben 

[iantt]

i was just checking the correct battery was fitted, needed to be 590a 60ah enhanced flooded battery. was the bms reset when the battery was fitted. im just checking the basics were done really. theres no ford spec for parasitic battery drain that i know of. 

ive known instrument clusters not shutting down (mk4 mondeos were known to cause battery drain) but not on the mk 3 focus. 

why dont you disconnect the cluster and test again. its easy to remove the cluster, only takes a few minutes. 

[Fixitdaily]

yes mate, i appreciate all the advice - 

No, as far as i know the bms was not reset - i assume this is just done through diagnostics ?? 

Yes, i will remove cluster to confirm results that removing the fuse did. Is it that easy to remove is it ? it won't need any special treatment when refitting ? 

Im new to fords and so please excuse me 

[iantt]

the battery monitoring  needs resetting when a new battery is fitted, not doing this stops the alternator charging battery fully. diagnostics not needed . there is a sequence to follow with hazards and fog light switch . will look it out.

[iantt]

when you fit a new battery, resetting of battery monitoring is as follows

Ign on for 10 secs

press foglamp swith 5 times

press hazard switch 3 times

wait up to 10 while watching battery light

battery light flashes

ign off.

job done

now use car as normal

 

i can check my focus ecoboost on monday if you want and see what parasitic drain i have for a comparision. i have no issues with battery going flat. 

does your stop start work at all? 

[Fixitdaily]

Thanks - yes that would be amazing having a comparison so if you didn’t mind checking your car that would be a great help. 

Yes stop start works - why’s that ? 

Think I will carry out same text but with instrument cluster unplugged. 

Thanks 

[iantt]

if your removing cluster, its just the top steering cowl that needs uncliping. the cowl is atatched to the trim surrounding the cluster. that pulls off with it. then 2 screws at bottom. there is a hidden clip at top of cluster that needs releasing with either a steel ruler or a plastic credit card( old one no longer required) you can see the serated plastic square you need to aim for

 

[Fixitdaily]

Ok - cluster out, car on test. See what she’s like after 6 hours 

 

thanks 

[Fixitdaily]

Ok, instrument cluster disconnected - didn’t exceed 40mA for the entire test. 

Conclusion - intermettitent draw originating in instrument cluster ? Or do you not agree 

Ben 

[Tdci-Peter]

5 hours ago, Fixitdaily said:

instrument cluster disconnected - didn’t exceed 40mA for the entire test. 

Conclusion - intermettitent draw originating in instrument cluster ?

Possibly.

One caveat is the the IC seems to be the link between the Multimedia (infotainment) CAN bus and the MS-Can bus. So any stuff on the Multimedia CAN bus is also disabled (from waking up the BCM and maybe the ECM too) when the IC is removed, or fully powered down.

A cheap 2nd hand IC, if you can get one, might prove the point. I am not sure how easy it is to programme in a new IC, PATS seems to be in the BCM on the Mk3, so it might just be the odometer. (Usually these can be re-programmed, but only upwards!). But even if not programmed for your car, it would help confirm your diagnosis.

 

[Fixitdaily]

One of the downsides of modern, interconnect vehicle management systems I suppose. 

Well, the local ford main agent had it for over 2 weeks and couldn’t find the issue.

 

so, maybe I could go back with my findings, see if it gives them a clue. 

Removing the instrument cluster fuse gave a slightly different test result to when I disconnected the IC. Fuse removal 59mA average draw when “asleep”, but with IC disconnected 40mA draw. With it all connected up it would randomly spike and draw 200-400mA for split seconds but I would never catch it 

[iantt]

I haven't forgotten to check my car for current draw, had a manic day at work. Then I was going to do checks when I got home. Got home only to be asked to go fetch dog from groomers at 6.30 and don't forget I'm taking step daughter to guitar lessons at 7.30, wait and bring her back. 

So I may get round to it at around 8.30. lol

I won't be defeated. !!! 

[Fixitdaily]

That’s the spirit - aren’t Monday’s great !

[iantt]

Yeah, even the guitar lesson is running late.

[iantt]

right, on test, initaily after locking car and leaving for a minute, 320ma. then after 15 mins dropped down to 10ma, will recheck again in 10 minutes. 

[iantt]

still 10ma , so thats about the norm then 

[Fixitdaily]

Wow - on this car. Park up, turn off. Disconnect battery and set up meter etc. Lock car on key. 1.4amps for 10mins, then 500mA for another 30 mins. Eventually the car will go to sleep and appears to draw 40-60mA the entire time. Ignoring the fault the lowest it draws after extended periods is 40mA. 

 

I would think yeah 10mA at rest is bang on. So this car has got a gremlin in it 

 

thanks for your top advice and assistance 

[iantt]

you havent got any added accesories  like tow bar ?

[Fixitdaily]

Nope - no tow bar, fairly basic spec by the looks of it. Nothing noticeably on, and no voltage drop across any fuse ( even the cartridge ones as I popped the tops off ) - the only fuse with a 1.1mV drop is fuse11 ( a pink 30 amp cartridge type ) in the engine bay box that relates to the VQM. But even 1.1mV only = 212mA and that drain goes when the car finally goes to sleep. 

 

***** thing. I don’t think during all these flat batteries, jumps starts, battery replacements etc the BMS has ever been reset - I’ve done it now after charging the battery up 

[Trewithy]

I've only just read this thread and not being electrically minded so there is nothing I can add to the technical discussion.  But I seem to remember that Ford had a big problem with Focus batteries going flat about 2013 and they couldn't resolve the issue at that time.  The only advice they could give to get around the problem was to never switch the radio off, if you didn't want it on turn the volume to zero instead of turning it off.