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Battery repeatedly dying


RockandGrohl
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Hi all, 2013 Fiesta Ecoboost 1L here.  

 

Yesterday the battery died completely and I had to jump start it, but for the last couple months the radio has been resetting 2-3 times a month while the car is off. I can tell this happens when I unlock the car wirelessly and the wing-mirrors don't fold out. The radio is reset and the trip counter resets. 

 

Having looked at some threads it is most likely my battery, which is an eye-watering £200 replacement. OR, it could be the fact that for months I have had a USB phone charger cable plugged in which I've heard can drain the battery.

 

I've also heard it could be that my bluetooth is always on

 

Additionally, I've heard the battery can drain if there's a problem with the boot light (my boot light has never worked)

 

Any ideas guys? Thank you.

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I think you should have your battery tested  - The Ecoboost has a heavy duty battery which is why its so expensive but no amount of bluetooth or USB chargers should affect it  - does the startstop work?

 

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Are there any aftermarket electronics directly connected to the battery? I had a sub connected which slowly drained the battery as the car didn't know how much power it was taking so it didn't fully recharge the battery.

As said above get the battery tested first.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The car is almost 5 year old
.... It's the battery average batteries only last 3-5year I had mines changed last year.

As for electronics can drain battery but there is a instant cut out in front 12v port and for lights and rear 12v port there is a 20mins cut out anyway so would only drain for 20mins......

I wouldn't even bring stop start into this as there is lots of variables never mind the battery to why this wouldn't work....outside temperature, car temp if it's heat up, air con etc etc

If you are a supporter of this forum just use the Halfords discount card and get 15% off the battery price from Halfords that's £30 off

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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I would get the battery checked first before investigating into other faults. Remove it from the car if possible and charge it, take it to your local motor factors and get them to test it if needs be. If it is stop start the battery needs to be taken off the car anyway for it to be safely tested depending upon the testing method of course. 

I've saved people a lot of money over the years by testing the battery to find it's simply flat, I really dislike selling batteries to people who simply don't need them. Fingers crossed it just needs a good charge. 

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Thing i have noticed about these new fangled cars inc my Fiesta MK7 is that the lights stay on all the time you cant switch em off - thats how i noticed my battery was dying the lights were the drain that sucked the final remnants when i was at the shops - had to walk all the way home and drag my rover battery with me nearly broke my back and jumpstarted it fine!

What you need to do is check for a parasitic draw - Ericthecarguy does a good explanation on youtube.

Do you have a multimeter - i just tested mine yesterday battery is at 12.2v so its at 50% of useability.

CAR BATTERY TEST - CHARGE & LOAD:-


You can use your digital multimeter to find the general state of charge in a minute.

First, set your voltmeter to 20 DC volts.
Touch the negative (black) battery terminal with the negative (black) meter probe.
Touch the positive (red) battery terminal with the positive (red) meter probe.

Ask an assistant to turn on the headlights to provide the battery with a light load.

Check your voltmeter reading at a temperature of about 80°F (26.6°C):-

A reading of about 12.5 volts or higher means your battery has a good charge.
A reading of about 12.3 volts means your battery is about 75% charged.
A reading of 11.8 volts or lower means your battery is 25% or less charged.

If you got a low reading, slow charge your battery to improve the chemical reaction of
the battery and repeat the test. If your reading doesn't go higher, replace the battery.

Read the multimeter display:-

A reading of 12.4VDC indicate fully charged battery, 12.2VDC is considered 50% charged.

Any reading below 12.0volts indicates a dead battery!!!

A charged,healthy battery will provide 12.6 volts due to output sum of six 2.1V internal cells.

Instruct an assistant to crank the car's engine while you read the meter display.
The voltage on multimeter should not dip below 10.0VDC while key is in the start position.

A reading below 10.0 VDC when starting is a sign the battery is not producing enough
current to reliably handle the starter motor's current draw.

Turn the car off if it started in the previous step.
Place the multimeter leads on the battery cable terminal end.
It should read within 0.1-volt of the maximum reading displayed in step 3.

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on my mk7.5 fiesta I found that the glovebox light was on all of the time . i know it does not use much power. i realised because the stuff at the top of my glovebox felt quite warm when I opened it one day. fiddled with the switch but lid did not seem to push it in far enough so removed the glovebox light instead

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yes, I had the same problem the switch has to line up with a screw on the door or it won't switch off.

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