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the police and your insurance... does anyone else matter?

Hi Good to see this answer. I'm happy now too...

Well Jamie PM'ed me his VIN, I rang our freindley Ford Dealer Parts Desk, he looked it up, then went and spoke to a technician. and come back with an answer. And guess what, it's eat my hat time :D Oh your a set of happy bunnies, you have the newer non maintenance DPF. So I asked Andy [because I did not want 20 Vin's in my PM box ] :D What denotes it's the newer DPf, now he thought it must be the Stage V Emissions Designation.[he was not sure hence he went and asked a techi which one it was, and he said he had worked on a V emissions one and it did not need the eloy's additive, nor was there provision for it. So there you go, like I said sorted with a phone call.........simples

One photo

No got a different button for that.Will up load some photos.

I used to be the same as you jamie, im not saying im better than you but it all depends on the topic that you start, surley you can apprecieate the fact That if people on here dont know what their talking about they wont bluff you mate, they simply sit tight and watch for a reply from someone who does know what they are talking about then we all learn from it mate:)

After owning my Pather Black Fez for 6 months I'd definitely go for another colour next time, Squeeze is probably my favourite followed by Colorado Red. I loved the look of Hot Magenta in the brochure but when I saw it in real life it just didn't seem to pop, just looked like plain old maroon.

Dark cars/vans always look better with chrome as opposed to light colors and chrome. Personally for the fiesta, white is best B)

I don't know of anyone who's ever pursued it personally.

May just need tightening up (allen key behind this plastic cover) or it may be the clutch bleed nipple. Tbh I haven't seen a Fiesta >5 years old without an oil stain in this area. I wouldn't worry.

If you've read the thread about "how to improve your WS fiesta engine" and then here is the "how I did it bit" Firstly you need to remove the grill c/w number plate. Grab it firmly at the top and give it a sharp tug, do the same at the bottom and the grill will pop out. Next you need to remove the 4 plastic grommit type fasteners that hold the bumper to the body. Once you've opened the bonnett you won't miss them. 2 of them are holding the headlight assembly. You will now be able to pull back the top of the bumper and you will see the opening to the intake and how the bumper design is supposed to funnel air into that tract. OK here are the bits I used A 65mm x 90 deg waste water black elbow. (you can get all this stuff from Wickes whatever) Various reducers to get down to 38mm for the flexi pipe Henry The Vacuum Cleaners pipe or anything around 38mm in dia. A couple of large cable ties (to secure the pipe and elbow to the main strengthening beam behind the grill) Some gaffer tape to hold it together or plumbers plastic cement And a bit of foam insulation, used to protect the rad (not really neccessary if you fit it properly) Here is one of the intake pipes I made earlier. In this shot I've installed both my intake pipes but you get the idea. The bump on the bumper will hold them in place. Hence why I had to reduce the flexi pipe dia. This is the view of the 2 pipes located in the intake tract viewed from the engine looking towards the front of the car with my original intake pipe to the filter removed. This is the view of the 2 pipes. Note how they are dropped behing the main strengthening beam and then cable tied to hold them in position. The grill back in place. You just need to make sure that you locate all the tabs on the grill into their respective slots. Have a look at the rear of the grill and you will see what I mean. Also you need to be a little bit forceful when you push/clip it in. Notice I said push, NOT HAMMER. Under normal circumstances you won't see them. Job complete. You can see the black plastic fasteners in this photo that hold the bumper on. The bumper is quite flexible you can pull it about, it won't break. Also you will need to make room to get the pipe or two pipes behind the strengthening beam and in front of the rad. I know some of you may think that the air flow to the radiator might be affected. Let me say, I haven't had any issues at all even in heavy traffic. In fact my air-con rad is sited in front of the normal rad. But what I do need is a performance filter which will help the engine breath. I don't know which type I'm still looking. Also being cable tied it's not a professional job but I'm looking at alternative means, and the other benefit I doubt whether the Ford dealer will spot it when it goes for servicing. If anybody from the "dark side" (petrol model) does this mod, I would be interested to see and hear how you went on. If anybody is passed by a little white Fiesta Van in the outside lane of the motorway pulling warp speed, save your fuel you won't catch me. Many thanks go to our "ozzy friend" (Fi-Es-Ta) for giving me the inspiration, good on you cobber. Cost for me nowt, and I don't think it will be more than £10. It might be cheaper if you use your imagination. At the end of the day it's all about getting forced (ram effect) cold air into that intake. Which is what this does above 20mph in. So all to gain nowt to lose. Whether you use 2 pipes or one, "go burn some rubber"

How did you find the wear rate? The inner edges of mine were totally bald after 14,000 miles!

pirelli p zero nero,the best tyres I have ever had on my cars,superb handling and smooth ride.....

Who cares if it isn't legal most of you lot probs have illegal HIDS

Fitted a push to open/push to close on mine. Involved cutting and shutting, as well as sanding down the lid so give me another 1mm - 1.5mm of room. Looks factory when closed. Fits a TomTom Go 550 perfectly. Also modified my satnav mount and secured it to the dash by friction (rubberised dash is pretty awesome for 'wedging' stuff into without damage/marks). I fed the wire where the ambient lighting kit fits and then through the bracket that holds the glovebox closed (removed it, threaded wire, refitted). Saved alot of headaches on the 3000 mile trip we took across Europe, I would have hated to have kept sticking/unsticking from the Windscreen then taking it in the hotels with us.

Looks good...I will try it myself...

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22428&st=0&p=126267entry126267 Grab a light from a Fusion/Fiesta mk6 ghia first. It has maplights

501 rings a bell The standard unit is ugly, why I recommended the one I have

Otters hold hands when they sleep, so they don't drift apart. Cute or what? Sides on, brown stuff is frame sealant to give it some extra strength (aka I wanted to make some space in the garage so I was using old tat, lol). The corners I couldn't be arsed to mitre in the correct angles so I bodged it (same as the mk6). Carpet covers the top 1inch anyway so it will all be hidden. Cool night club I went to last night. Complete. Quick spray of black makes it look a bit better. Just waiting on carpet to trim it up. To keep the original head unit i'm using line converters, and to be honest, unless you are really anal about SQ then these are just fine. I cut the speaker wire on the rear left door and just connected them up, as well as reconnecting the speaker, and it works absolutely fine. Once tweaked and J1rkl has scoped it, it should be all good to go. Rock music sounds great as it's very punchy! Using the Hifonics amp out of my mk6 until I get the Monobox J1rkl gave me sussed. Needs polishing and some soldering done and some thermal paste.

Also forgot, fitting foot well lights (wiring+holders already there, just dropped 2x 501 bulbs in and the mk6/Fusion map lights fit the ZS perfectly as well.

There is a breaker in the engine bay, tucked inside the spare space in the battery tray. The cable is 4awg which is seriously overkill, the final run to the amp is a smaller 4awg cable. Ground is 4awg as well because it was all that was available. There will be more pics shortly! Just getting it settled in, will probably be finished when the carpet arrives and the monobox is wired up. I also wired a switch in to switch the amp on and off, I will probably change this for a rem wire somewhere.

You see the last pic where the RCA's plug in? That's a line converter. It turns the rear speaker wire into RCA ports. Then the RCA's go into the amp...amp into the sub..job done. I can even control the bass through the headunit.

Tbh, Im not an audiophile, it sounds absolutely fine for me. Punchy bass, does the job. Well worth it. Specially if you have 'claw feet' and tend to drag your legs out like I do. Side skirts have already got marks on them :()

Right, things have started building up on the MK7 so I just thought I'd share...spec is Fiesta Zetec S, 120PS, full leather, USB, bluetooth and voice control. Cost just shy of £11,500 (AWESOME deal, thanks to my Dad's Jaguar discount). First mod was Lockwood sill plates, awesome mod, deffo recommended. Secondmod was (iirc): K&N Filter. No pics, bought it off of a guy on here IRL, forgot his name. No pics, we all know what they look like. Europe Preperation Third mod was TomTom mount to make it less mind numbingly annoying constantly fitting the TomTom to the wind screen (FURIOUSLY annoying): I also took the time to modify the 'secret cupboard' Fourth was the sub and amp finally!! So I started on a false floor to keep it OEM looking. Same as my mk6, the sub will be sunken into the false floor. Box is 20x15x7 if anyones keeping note. About 1.2cuft. Test fit. It's no longer in this orientation, it's vertically aligned. Base of false floor.

Falken 912's ty x

Breakers can give you a full Fiesta kit for very little (£20-£30) It is recommended to have the space saver, as foam doesn't work well on blow outs, nor big gashes. If you have a puncture again, the tyre is ruined.

Wheel refurb in Birmingham, £20 per wheel and £5 per tyre...so £100 all in. £120 for special finishes. I had 18's done here, cannot complain at all. Spotless finish. City Powder Coaters.

There is/was a 56 plate one at Chambers Ford in Sutton ;) Test vehicle granted (Hot Magenta and Street pack wheels) but still :P

Cheap hong kong tat in a brand new car? Your call...I personally just doctored a TomTom nav mount..

If you were located closer I could have sorted you a new door motor. I'd say its not common at all personally.

Door catches are silver, normally black plastic povo spec. How is the headliner different?

Seems like a waste of time on a turbo diesel, specially if its the 1.6 with an intercooler.

That's a point My white one (60 plate) has blue/dark grey dash. All black looks a lot better

All in your head imo I've done the whole intake BS to death, and on a 1.4 it netted nothing just more noise and a 1.6 it is completely defunct. Maybe slightly better throttle response at best

Don't be so foolish. I had a much better setup on a MK6 Fiesta 1.4 diesel and it netted nothing just slightly better throttle response and even that was probably in my head. This placed the K&N filter exactly where your little pipe is, removing like 70% of the induction pipe for a simple straight through method. It bolted just behind the foglight My TDCI was running 110hp before it went bang and I learnt early on as you should that induction on these things is not the limiting factor.

Bingo bango! Wasn't anywhere NEAR as hard as i'd imagined. Mechanic is I am me thinks. New donor car ^ 1.6 style climate. It has powerfolds, auto wipers and headlights as well as one touch down drivers window, i've just gained ABS, aircon, 90bhp (150 when I'm finished), new gearbox/clutch/flywheel factory plugs and new door looms, and more for less than 2 grand. ANDDDD If anyone remembers my oil leak. Guess what it was? Gearbox. The absolute numpty who had fitted my new clutch didn't torque it up to spec, and thats where it was dripping from. Livid. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Can't wait to get this car back on the road!!! Today: Removing dashboard Received new dashboard (cheers mark, although the numpty forgot my engine mount [waits for mark to blame his staff :P]) Removed dash support - in the process broke both outer covers near the wing mirrors. Hopefully I can remove the ones from the donor car cleanly The gearbox in the donor car fixed itself??? Im guessing because the hydraulics were ran dry, the 2 weeks I was on holiday let the clutch fully disengage? who knows. Removed most of the interior wiring loom. Just about to have a bash and remove the heatermatrix - my god this thing is HUGEEEE Pics Wooo Wiring loom transferred, dashboard installed Everything wired in, just need to swap rear door looms and locks (I THINK the donor car has deadlocks, how do you tell?), and front looms, interior light 'loom' to account for auto wipers and headlights and finally boot loom. Doubled up all the sound deadening with madmax and two * the OEM stuff. WOOO PIKEY ENGINE SWAP FTW All in and working great, fuel pump works, drivers door/immobiliser/power folds/heater matrix all works. No AC as I didnt wanna pay £400 for the pipes just yet, exhaust in, just little niggly bits now. If anyone can tell me how the washer jets route on this I would be very grateful! Or tell me what this is? Also very grateful. AND Finally What gearbox oil and how much?? Also where do I fill the gearbox?? I changed the entire engine (1.4 > 1.6 TDCi) so had a new engine loom anyway (required anyway because the 1.6 TDCi uses an electric power steering pump) Pikey engine crane The auto wipe/lights are already on the loom as the donor car I used was a relatively top spec style climate, so I now have powerfolds etc. Engine is all bolted in nice and tight, still need to get: Complete front panel with rads/temp sensors Intercooler Rear hubs with ABS (front ABS is fitted and working) Fix electric power steering (nothing working, slight whine, think it may be a dodgy ground)

Can get some in MINT condition with 3-4mm tyres for £400 Or in average condition for £280 (slight curbs on 2 of the wheels)

Probably won't do much with a J1 or Miltek as the Bluefins don't take any of that into account.

Timing belt is pretty much due (most people do half what Haynes say, so 85k is bang on the money) Injectors seals are 4 copper washers, common failure on these engines (chuff chuff noise otherwise) Crankshaft pulley seems a bit weird/excessive. May have just been blagged one by the garage though. This is a solid bit of steal so I can't see this needing to be replaced for any reason what so ever. They may have been mistaken with a cam belt idler pulley or tensioner pulley. £2600 sounds fair, be ware though the clutches/flywheels in these are naff and will die around 110k if you are driving like a saint, and cost just under £500 all in to get repaired/replaced as they are dual mass.

Did 10 miles past 0 on the range. Range is based on your mpg read out, so if you drive sensibly it won't 'catch up'. I could have probably done another 40+ miles granny driving as my average mpg was 30 at the time.

Probably easier/better/faster/cheaper to go to a breakers and buy a complete boot kit from a MK6, MK6.5 or MK7 with the option. <£50 should get you the wheel, jack, brace and tow hook. The benefit of doing it this way is that the styrofoam insert is included which holds everything rattle free.

It fits 'ok' but requires a custom holder for it and has no wheel brace holder or anything

Just get one from a Fiesta MK6/Mk6.5 or MK7. They are usually 14 or 15" but with massive tyres which makes them close to 17

Be taken from the GEM (general electric module). only problem is these kits are pretty dumb and will most likely burn your motors out if you use it frequently on half closed windows etc

Looks like primer, still like it tho.

Sounds like the main flip key has gone missing Go to a dealer, probably about £120 to programme it providing you provide the key

Earlier models had 1 flip 1 boring

Paint while on the car. If you are stuck at hub nut then bleeding the breaks and reattaching the handbrake cable may blow your mind.

I have 18's on mine. 215/35/18 18"x7J 4x108