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For those who may be interested in doing this on the mk2, heres a few tips/pointers, Its almost the same as the mk2.5 just a few suttle differences with where the holes need to be drilled out etc.. Same steps as above shown by lenny, I cut the second bulb support generously to give plenty of material to play with, this wasnt needed in the end as you will see. I shaved the edges right down then curved the face that will meet with the back of the unit best I could to get a nice fit. Then marked out on the new unit roughly where the new bulb holder would sit, this position gives plenty of space for both bulbs to be fitted with plenty of clearance. (the hole is a few mm bigger than the bulb itself weather it be a cree bulb or original bulb) Glued into place, again make sure the bulb fits through and everythinng lines up right. Next you need to cut a hole in the bumper for the new bulb holder/plug to sit in. Dont worrie, this is all hidden up my the light unit itself once fitted. The hole needs to be a bit bigger than the bulb holder and also abit longer to allow ease of fitting the unit. The wiring side is prety much the same as what lenny described and will later picture himself. I quickly wired it up to check everything worked and fitted the light for a few shots (excuse the dirty car!). Tomorow I will be routing the wire properly and shrink wrapping/taping up. A quick shot for anyone wanting to compare the old and new bulb (cree vs original) And the other cree bulb fitted. I still need to re-route/wire the fog light for the new holder position because the plug dosnt quite reach the back of the bulb holder at the moment. PLENTY of light from the rear now, cant wait to test them out in the carpark and blind many people! :D

Thanks Fishpond. Got it sorted. My local dealer supplied new power steering hoses and a separate nut that goes into the power steering pump BEFORE you push the new hose into it (much earier to get at with the pipe not conneted). £92 for the parts and got great technical advice from dealer - most significantly, removing the headlight improves access and visability! Cheers Bones

Hello all , I have found some info out a few months ago about my focus i got it off a ST170 SITE so credit does go to them but i will say it here anyways *******WARNING DO NOT TRY THIS IF YOU LIKE TO KEEP A CHECK ON MILEAGE AFTER EVERY REFILL LIKE ME AS THIS WILL RESET THE TRIP METER****************** 1.GET IN FOCUS 2.PUT KEY IN STEERING LOCK OFF 3.HOLD DOWN TRIP RESET BUTTON ON INSTRUMENT PANEL 4.TURN IGNITION ON AND START ENGINE 5.NOW YOUR CAR IS IN SELF DIAGNOSTIC MODE YOU CAN NOW CHECK IF THE CAR HAS ANY DTC CODES IN THE MEMORY ,CHECK ALL GUAGES ,CHECK ALL INSTRUMENTAL PANEL LAMPS EVEN ONES U DONT USE E.G. ABS GLOW PLUG LIGHT ON PETROL AND AUTO GEARBOX LAMP YOU CAN ALSO SEE YOUR REV METER IN DIGITAL Give this a go its quite cool and also dtc codes are usefull if you know what to do with them try googling dtc library there used to be a program you could get but i dont know if its avaliable anymore Thanks Matt :D

Hi everyone, Spent the last couple of days going through this forum and felt compelled to join. Love how passionate everyone is about their Fords. I just passed my driving test last month and went straight to Ford dealership to order a new Focus. No idea how long it’s going to take, so a little bit anxious but enjoying the wait. I guess my question is, as (almost) a new Ford owner, is there any general advice you guys can give me from your collective experiences that I should keep in mind as a Ford owner, either for now or in the future. Thanks!

Thanks to everyone who replied. Turns out they are ST optional alloys and they do fit. Bought the set of four with decent tyres for £300 and picking up tomorrow. Pics to follow. Cheers Again

Has anybody here tried retrofitting a stereo steering remote on a Mk2 Focus which comes with a pre-installed stock Ford 6000 double din CD player only?

Thankyou guys for all of your replies. Here is where I am at... I had the car towed by the AA, a mile up the road to the Ford Dealership- as when I phoned Ford, they wouldnt really do anything or say anything until a Ford approved garage had seen it. So today, I have been on tenterhooks all day waiting to hear the fate of my car. Anyway, I have phoned up 4 times, and the last time, at half an hour before closing, I got to speak to someone about my car that had been looked at.. though it just so happened it wasnt the technician that worked on it apparently. Anyway, the first thing the man said was... the reason we didnt phone you is because I was wanting to try and find you a cheaper price, but all our parts guys are all away home now. He said it LOOKS like it is going to be £1600 for a new turbo fitted. And I said .. right.. ok... so your going to replace the turbo, can you guarantee that will rectify the problem... he went silent. He CANNOT guarantee that replacing the turbo will sort the car. So I said so what exactly did you do today and find out through the diagnostics... and he couldnt answer me. So I said well surely if the turbo is completely dead, you can tell that through your diagnostics.. he said it wasnt totally dead. He said that the error code that was coming up on the systems, were lack of power... which COULD be as a result of the turbo. But he said we need to replace the turbo to RETEST it, to see if that rectifies the problem. He could not guarantee that after spending £1600 on abrand new turbo, that my car would be fixed. So I asked him why on earth he couldnt tell me what was wrong with the car.. and he said he would speak to the other technician tomorrow, and phone me back. So I am no further forward. My car is merely now at a garage that wants to use trial and error to replace the turbo to see if it will fix it, but by the sounds of the mechannic, he didnt think it would. .. Just like Halfords wanted to wash their hands of me to get rid of the car, as they didnt know if it was the turbo, because half the tests they did, came back negative. Halfords did hold their hands up and say they didnt have it on a ramp and check ALL of the pipes. So I am waiting on Ford phoning me back tomorrow. If the garage replace the turbo, and the car still lacks power, what on earth could be causing that then... I asked the guy this, and he couldnt give me an answer. So if I spend £1600 on a new turbo, and the problems still exist- would I be correct in thinking I should technically be able to get out of paying that 1600, because surely I could just get my old one put back oN !!!! If its not my turbo... after that is replaced.. can someone please give me any other causes... I assume I would be looking at engine replacement or something drastic along those lines? Im at my wits end, I am lost without my car.. and damn'd if I am paying £1600 for them to play about with my car and not get it fixed at the end of it. Im sorry, I am probably being out of order, its not their fault thsi has happened, but surely someone can take the turbo bits and pieces off, and have a look in and tell me that my turbo is knackered.. surely? But when I asked..' is my turbo completely knackered'', he said no. :( How ridiculous, I am actually making myself ill because of this... and its just a damn car, but grrrrr. Surely someone would be able to give me a reason why the error code is comnig up.. and if its not the turbo causing it.. then what it would be?

Yeah used the same glue, not sure how it will set, will see tomorow. Now I may have to carbon wrap my tesco clubcard lol. The light beam from the back is amazing, really impressed with it.

maplins have some great Fake Dremel's , they are great little tools wow with those Cree bulbs you could drive in reverse every where lol

good shout lenny, i can tell you've given this some thought lol... cant wait to see more pics as i like the sound of running the cable back with the fog light cable. makes sense, just hope its not to hard to get too. i was thinking the same with regards to the duplex exhaust pipe but not sure how that would affect my warranty? unless i went through ford to get it done (if thats possible) but i know that will cost a fortune lol those cree bulbs look the part, but again cost a fair bit :(... i want to get a dremel!!

was it the sockets with the spiral flutes inside? never seen a socket with 'cones' inside, quite interested

I ran into a similar problem when I lost (I know!) my locking wheel nut key for my old Punto. A little alloy and wheel shop across town sorted it out for me and charged me £40 all in with new nuts afterwards. The guy just hammered this socket with cones inside, presumably then once they've locked in place they grip as you turn it to remove the wheel locking nut. Quite smart and only took 20 minutes! Dan

Hi Tomo, Went with the bog standard 1.6 Zetec 125PS. Really wanted the Titanium, but couldn't justify the extra £2000 with missus unfortunately. Managed to squeeze out free rear parking sensors from the dealer though. Now just waiting on a date for delivery.

Are you sure you havent got the correct spout that should have come with the car in the spare wheel well?

Stealth, you have done a grand job on your motor there, it looks superb!

^^agreed^^ Start there, it could also be worn bushes, damaged suspension,

Are you sure you have the original wheel's on there for a start? and secondly, is the lowering of the car at the front deliberate / not so? ....i.e. its not worn dampers or something reducing the height of the suspension?

Would it be worth taking it for a 4 wheel alignment? that way you will know the exact setup of the suspension and if anything is out causing your understeer.. Usually costs about 40-50 quid though including adjustments

Some good feedback on their Bones, if you do get a chance to take any photo's and upload them - please do, I am sure it will help - if you show the faulty part as well! ... Would you mind?

I suppose the resolution would still be the same though, if its not thermo - replace the sensor?

looks good mate, liking the 'off the scale' readings. did you wire this up yourself or did you get someone else to do it?

hi matey i know as the other bloke said it reads off the scale still i like it ;) i used some twin armoured cable from work low resistance not to sure on amp rating though

hi mate yes here are a few notice the one when it was on the forecourt lol come a long way ;)

I'd say they were Focus ST alloys looking at them... The focus Titanium ones were similar shape but had a flatter face. ST Alloys - 8x18 Focus Sport Pack Alloys - 7.5 x 18

Hey Lez, can you give us the website from which you got this image from?

Part number for Right hand drive only... if you need the Left hand drive part number please ask...

You should now have a bulb socket for the second reverse light with a red and black cable spliced on to the rear of it, with just enough length to attach it to the exiting reverse loom, To help protect the insulation on this cable it is advised that you wrap it generously with the fabric loom tape when wrapping with this Fabric tape, Use the Method Of: wrap over half of your previous wrap each time you rotate around the cable, keeping it as tight as possible, and ensuring there are no kinks or twists in the cable, again wrapping over half the tape each time. Keep wrapping until you reach the final length 2-3 inches of cable then stop and cut the Fabric tape from the roll. Once the cable has been wrapped down to the final 2-3 inches of bare cable you can now fit the bulb socket to the car running the new loom along to the opposite side of the car and splicing in to the existing reverse light loom, when the clear fog light housing has dried it can be fitted to the car by pushing in from outside of the bumper. The top of the loom where it joins the grommet, is wrapped in black electrical tape, remove this tape to expose the cables as saw in the picture below Once the tape has been removed, take the stanley blade and gently cit a small slit in the mouth of the rubber grommet where the cable feeds in to the boot take care not to hit the fog light loom with the blade, the widening of this hole will make it easier to fish the new revers cable through the grommet and will be tapped up once complete so no water will enter the grommet. I personally have fitted the new reverse unit in to the original socket in the clear fog light housing to make both reverse lights shine in the same directions both sides of the car, and I fitted the fog light bulb in the new bulb housing support tube fitted on to the side of the clear fog light unit housing. I have also fitted two Cree Q5 reverse Bulbs in to the fitments which emit 6000kelvin white light and are equivalent to a 55watt bulb each, so thats 110watts of light beaming from the rear of the car when reversing, This is 100% Legal and a great help to anyone with tinted windows in the back of their focus. Thanks For Looking! Please Check my List of Guides Listed Below For More Information. Guide to Fitting Genuine focus Mk2.5 ZetecS rear Diffuser Click Here Guide to Fitting Genuine focus Mk2.5 ZetecS Front Lip spoiler Click Here Is Your Focus Rusting Click Here For More Information Guide To Activating Single & Multi Door Unlock on yor Ford Click Here Guide To Spraying Rear View Mirror Click Here Guide To Changing Lower Front Grill On Mk2.5 Focus Click Here The Ultamate Reverse Bulb Click Here Guide to Fitting Custom Built Climate Controls on Focus Click Here Guide to Converting Rear Fog Light To Clear Click Here Custom Lazer Cut Interior Parts For Your Ford Click Here Ford Serial Number Without Removing Stereo Click Here Guide to Fitting New Ford Mist Type Jets on all Models Click Here Guide to Fitting additional Boot Light Click Here The Ultimate Rear Seat Protection Click Here Guide To Storing Vehicle For Long Periods Click Here Guide To Fitting ST Gauge Pod To Focus Dash Click Here Guide To Fitting Focus Led Badge Light Click Here Guide To Fitting Second Reverse Light Ford Focus Mk2.5 Click Here Guide to Fitting Auto Dimmer Unit to Gauges or DRL's Click Here Guide to Fitting additional 12v Socket in Boot of Focus Click Here Full ZetecS Kit Fitted to Mk2.5 Focus Click Here Guide to Fitting Footwell Lighting In Your Ford Click Here Guide to Induction Filter Upgrade in Your Ford Click Here Guide to Fitting Custom Bonnet Dampers Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here Guide to Wiper Blade Change Focus Mk2 Mk2.5 Click Here Guide to fitting Ford puddle lights Focus 05-12 Click Here Guide to Fitting Genuine focus RS LED tail lights Mk2.5 Click Here .

The post above me is excellent advice and I agree I don't think the two problems are related. Idle air control valve is easily checked by starting your car and pulling off the little rubber hose - the revs should climb immediataly (as if it's a cold winter's morning and your engine is starting from being cold). If there's no power going through to your rear plate lights trace the wiring loom and find the earth, it could be corroded. Whether or not the number plate lights share their earth straps with your rear tail lights I don't know entirely.

if the fuse is ok then use a power probe or multimeter to check the lights are getting some power to them and go from there the revs going up and down sounds like you may have a dogey idel controlo valve i would give it a clean then refit it if this dont work i would replace it they are not expensive ging hope this helps

I had the same problem with my old Astra , they charged me £80 to get them out , now if i need new tyres i won't let them touch the locking nuts i do it myself and always copper grease them

Youll easily see 1.5 Bar on a modern diesel.. soometimes 2... so that guage will be maxing out pretty much constantly lol!!

Thanks mate they have taken a bit of time to complete just waiting for a few more bits then i will be fitting them i never thought about the boost and didnt know they boosted so high to be honest last diesel i fitted a boost gauge to was my 306 lol which sat at 10 psi i will let you know how i get on with the boost readings when everything is in place then ;)

Hey Pre That is one fab mod and i really like it. I will pay ure fuel etc for you to come and mod the cupholders in my car:-) Jamie