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first day of new job, went well. they are a bit disorganised and equipment is worn out or non existant lol

well , i checked my credit score on barlaycard , 999 out of 999. cant improve on that then.lol

Top guy! Will be keeping an eye out for future updates, see what other white things I can add to mine

Unlike Vauxhalls where the Dipstick is applied after purchase, accessible from the cabin.

Any suspension work will affect the geometry of the wheels, therefore when any work like that is done it should be tracked again ASAP.

Just joined as I have just got a Fiesta MK7 1.6 TDCi Titanium

I've recently bought a used 2008 Ford Focus, it's a 1.8 petrol Titanium, generally the car is in nice condition, it just needed a few minor things doing which i knew about. One of the jobs is to replace the rear end pipe on the exhaust, basically the exhaust support mount that goes into the rubber bush has come away from the exhaust. I got a price from a reputable exhaust centre which was £35 to change just the end pipe section inclusive of fitting, i thought fair enough i'll get that done. While i was having it fitted the lad came over and said that i'd have to change the entire centre section at the same time due to the way Ford have designed the car, he said that you can't get access to undo the rear pipe because of the way it goes over the rear axle, he said their is no way to get in there to get it undone. Basically they want another £254.00 to change the centre section which is fine on my car.

Hi I got 2007 1.8 tdci titanium it runs like a dream only issues had with this was new alternator bushes pads n discs wipers tyres turbo pipe (had split £25) love my car it's so smooth and so reliable no major issues dunno if the zetec the same or not

Cheers mate, just off Ebay. Were £20 delivered. :-)

Just an update on my hesitation problem. Due to bad weather and lack of time I was unable to check plug lead by myself, but I drove the car to my local mechanic for a check. He checked the plug leads and concluded that they should be ok. He cleaned the throttle body instead and I must say that the car drives better. There is no obvious hesitation present, as there was before. I hope that this is permanent solution for the problem. Thank you all again for your help. Your tips may come handy in following years, since, with my wife, we plan to keep the car for several years to come. :)

Possibly I'm not sure, if there is, it might be made by I think PCS (I think that's the company) and I'm not sure if a company called Dewulf have a grader on the back. Our spud harvester is a Grimme varitron 220 and our carrot harvester is a Asa lift sp460 I think. Also how have you only just discovered Tuna and cheese lol

I do like dusting off my wooden spoon and baking for the first time in months! Just a simple raspberry loaf cake, but it is delicious if I do say so myself... I don't use weighing scales or any measuring equipment, which I think is my secret to great tasting bakes. Recipes are a guide only for me, following them to a tee does you no favours.

Mountune stuff for sale Quick shift for 5 speed fiesta box £100 1.0 Ecoboost Intercooler £200 All in excellent condition and posted FREE.

Very clean motor, where did you get the mats made?

Saw this on facebook, right bargain you got!

Hi Guys, Been really busy at work the last few months and traveling so haven't had time to keep up to date with this, but i'll be posting up to date soon! Technically you're right with the spoiler but I changed my mind... Sorry about Ford Fair, I did go in the end but didn't put in for the stand or anything. Still haven't seen you around Enfield! Already had the splitter done! One box was the standard spoiler! But i've changed my mind on that... didn't think the RS spoiler went with it if i'm honest.. Thanks, most local wrapping companies will do this for you, alternatively you can buy a roll of the stuff from eBay, in fact i've probably got some at home that i haven't used if you want it? Wrapping companies should have it pre-cut for you though. In one of the box's was and standard Zetec spoiler, to of course fit the RS style spoiler onto. But I had second thoughts and it looked crap... In the other box was of course... eyebrows!

5 door hatch should be the same as estate , 3 door hatch will be different ( longer front door )

The 1.8 TDCi is a very good engine on the whole, they don't have a DPF, the main issue with that engine though is the injectors on the 2008 models seem to have problems. Have a read on this thread about it.

Hi all thanks for your replies. I have been in touch with the guys from FORScan who advised resetting the "knock sensor learned values" but they also said if I were to carry on driving it, it should learn over time. I've ordered an ELM327 cable with the FORScan mod so I'm waiting for that to arrive. I have also been driving it to see if it gets better over time, it's very odd as the knocking isn't all the time I get quite a lot from cold in the morning. If I give it a blast and put my foot down, it pulls well without fail but if I were to put it in 5th or 4th and try to floor it at a low speed I get the engine knock... I'm a little worried that this may be the bottom end knocking? The dual mass flywheel and clutch was changed around 2-3 months ago as that was going and started causing a horrible judder, but the car was perfect after this was replaced right up until when I fitted the new ECU, BCM and clocks. Hopefully it's just a matter of resetting the knock sensor learned values as mentioned, as essentially all 4 injectors have been changed as far as the ECU knows.

Thats what i thaught it may have been originally the starter however after a plugin as i said it pulled a code p1200 (injectors)

Good to hear! Have you tried ringing them? Or visiting them face to face? Most don't respond to e-mails... Let us know how you get on.

Haha very true, but I've heard of people buying the Chinese made DRL fog kits and they not being very good quality, water puddles inside lamps, LED's blowing early... @M4RC

Got the car back all running good now there was a split on the the turbo vaccume pump Its all working okay now

Exhaust centre, without you even mentioning a company I go all shivery and fill with dredd. After a couple of bad experiences I either do it myself or go to a normal garage.

That was my first thought too. I remember back on the old MK3 Fez just giving the motor a gentle tap (read: whack it with a hammer) was enough to unstick a stuck starter!

Thanks for the advice Russ. I'll get it booked in to get tracking done asap.

Given that i've been quoted £256 just for the middle section, would anyone risk one of these below or has anyone heard of them ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-1-6i-Ti-VCT-16V-and-Ford-Focus-1-8-2-0-exhaust-system-silencer-3546-/321762012150?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Model%3AFocus|Cars+Year%3A2008|Cars+Type%3A1.8&hash=item4aea82abf6:g:mjoAAOSw-4BXa8go

https://www.vauxhall.co.uk/offers-finance/value-my-car.html Use the Vauxhall glass price guide fill in some daft details and it will give you Glass price for your car. Although it seems Glass are closing the online website for valuations this month and only operating directly to businesses after that.

I got the filter from that kit and fitted it to the standard air box.

I do like using the mower as improvised leaf sweeper and mulch maker All the birch leaves blown off last week are now in the tumbler, nicely chopped up with the lawn mowings Before I got Brandy, I used to walk from sunrise to sunset, once a week. Obviously, I got a lot further in June and July : than I did in December and January Once I got Brandy, my mileage decreased somewhat. Whereas, I alone would just walk non-stop: Brandy needs to stop and sniff things, run round in a random pattern in a field, investigate other dogs etc.. I don't think we've done more than 27 miles in a day, in the summer

Guildford --> Dorking Town (via A25) --> Box Hill --> Leith Hill --> Guildford Was a bit rushed towards the end as I had other obligations, but will re-do it sometime, and hopefully climb the tower. Supposed to be the second highest hill in SE England. Weather was nice and sunny, lots of cyclists on the road, but little traffic. And surprisingly didn't encounter a single stupid driver the whole journey!

Welcome Steven :)

It also blocks out fog & snow blindness

Extremely pleased with my purchase today. Diffuser & Spats £20 for the lot. Bargain of the year so far!

Is it literally the last arm before after the back box? Mine did this, two Jubilee Clips crossed over the arm and the tail pipe and one MOT later and all is well :) An older exhaust probably won't take kindly to a weld, so just went for the clips, properly solid.

Better off trying autobeam.co.uk matey.

I do like wandering through dew covered fields with Brandy along the south side of the Stour, discovering sloe laden bushes, whose whereabouts were previously unknown to me and of course, finding £18.67 in loose change at the start, on the pavement by the takeaways It's very summer like again, with a beaming sun, little in the way of cloud and a little breeze, it's 19°C on garage thermometer when we got back. What happened to frosty October mornings of my childhood? The only frost round here now, is when the freezer door hasn't been shut properly.

I don't like having to get my toolkit out to open a bottle of wine! They don't make corkscrews like they used to...

Well, after blowing a boost hose off on the dual carriage way on the way to a booking on Saturday, the car is now running perfectly again. It had to be the most awkward pipe to get to. Anyway. Cobra Decat and non resonated cat back is being collected on Saturday as I've changed my mind about going custom. Following that I'll be going stage 2 mid November I should think, although once the winter weather hits the road I'll probably put it back onto the map for standard power using the Revo SPS handheld until the roads get better

Park on drive, double click key to lock and walk away.

I got some badges from him, thanks!

Well the car was in ford all day Monday and it turns out it was a faulty pin on PCM, turns out for a new one it £1100 fitted!!!!! Ford also reckoned that it will have been caused by the welding but they can't prove it So I took my chances and phoned the garage who did the exhaust and just said to them what ford found and that it was caused by the welding, the garage said they wanted to send the PCM off to be tested and repaired but they would get back to me later on in the day, (this was Tuesday BTW) Any hoo, 6 o'clock last night I received a phone call off the garage and this is what they said: The two partners have had a chat and if it goes through the insurance it's going to be dragged out and I may not win! Yes you read that right! So after a long hard chat, we have come to the conclusion that we will right you a cheque out for £1100, It's completely upto you what you do with the money (either get it repaired or go through ford for a brand new unit) I was completely gob smacked! I couldn't thank them enough and here we have it! Can you believe that! Haha what a result Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Is that the little race car they built? I've never understood chasing massive power gains on small engines, it must be cheaper just to get a faster version. (Like the ST)

New ford dust caps and number plate housing only got the rear one fitted as I need to get longer and maybe wider screws as the holes are abit worn and sloppy.

ST exhaust fitted today. It's spot on. Has a nice deep subdued note and no more drone inside the car. Would highly recommend the ST back box mod.

First things first, DONT USE A SPONGE AS SUGGESTED ABOVE. stick with a lambs wool (natural or synthetic) wash mitt. For products, take a look on my website, www.yorkshiredetailing.co.uk We'll soon be Launching our in house quick detailer & snowfoam, hand made & developed by myself. We already have our own show wax, REVERSAL. Its a carnuba & Montan blend. Durability isn't great (again, it's a show wax) but it leaves a brilliant level of gloss. Also, don't be frightened to mix and match with brands. Brand loyalty can make or break your results, and some products are easier for different people than others For the drying towel, go ono Clean&shiny and get yourself a fireball Korea drying towel. I was involved in the initial testing prior to the products being produced and imported and its the best drying towel you will ever use. Gtechniq P1 is an extremely "light" compound. You may get better results using something like ultimate compound. Or, I use the CSP Polishing System both on the Rupes & by hand I Wont give you a detailed explanation as to what to do as I already have in about 15 threads & somebody's already answered above. The difference between a hard wax & soft wax is one is hard but oily to the touch. the other is basically a thick paste . Waxes don't really affect colours these days as its usually applied to clearcoat. Although a general effect of wax is deeper colour on the whole. Any questions, drop me a message. www.yorkshiredetailing.co.uk - approved resellers of the Highest quality Detailing & Valeting supplies

Here's everything you need to know take from it what you like as you don't have to do this exactly. I've been a detailer for 12 years now and have the experience to help with what you need to know. Exterior Detailing Guide. wash and decontamination process. This will be the most important stage of the detail process as more time spent here will give you the best results. I recommend using mainly angelwax products as these are the most reasonably priced products. That give excellent results. Products needed. Snow Foam or Traffic film Remover. Wheel Cleaner. Wheel woolly and soft detailing brush. 2 buckets. (With grit guards if you have them) Wash & Wax. Wool Wash Mitt (or sponge). Tar and Glue remover. Fall out remover. Microfibre Clay Mitt. Microfibre Drying Towel (or synthetic leather). Recommend Products: Angelwax Fast Foam. Angelwax Bilberry Wheel Cleaner. Angelwax Shampoo. Autoglym Intensive Tar & Glue Remover. Angelwax Revelation Fall Out Remover. Clay Mitt Blue Fine Grade. First pre-rinse the car with a pressure washer, hosepipe (or watering can but not really recommended) starting from the bottom of the car working up then back down. Then apply the snowfoam or tfr with a snowfoam lance or hand sprayer the same way from bottom to top and leave to dwell for 3-5 minutes. Then rinse the car starting at the bottom and work up then back down. The reason for this method is that it will remove the heavy grime first and creates water run off which will stop the grime sticking to the heavy grime at the bottom of the car. Wheel arches can also be done the same way. It will be a little harder with out a pressure washer as you'll have to use an old sponge for this that you won't use on anything else after. Now for the spongeing with wool mitt or sponge if you don't have one using the 2 bucket method. One with warm water the other with your wash and wax mix. Start at the top and work down doing the roof first then rinse your wash mitt in warm water then into wash and wax. Then rinse mitt well and then more wash and wax for windscreen windows and rear window. Then the same for bonnet, top of doors and boot. Then same process for door bottoms and bumpers. Then the same for the sills. Now dry the car before moving on to the wheels. A tip for cleaning grilles and panel gaps use a detailing brush to get into these areas A little tip here: door and boot shuts can also be done in the same way if needed and use the detailing brush round the hinges. You may also want to re-grease the hinges after. Wheels. Spray the bilberry wheel cleaner on to 1 wheel at a time starting with the backs then the face and leave to dwell for a couple of minutes. Now dip the wheel woolly in the wash and wax and use this to clean the backs of the wheels. Then do the same with the detailing brush for the face of the wheel then rinse and sponge then rinse. Do the same with all the wheels and rinse the brushes and mitt each time before you load up with fresh wash and wax. Now tar and glue the car following the instructions on the bottle rinse then dry. Now spray the angelwax revelation on all the paint work and wheels following the instructions on the bottle. The tip I have with this is leave it on for around 5 minutes then with a damp microfibre cloth agitate the revelation on the paint work then leave another minute or two then rinse and dry. Do the same with the wheels but use the detailing brush and wheel woolly to do this. Now it's time to clay the car with the clay mitt. Get some fresh wash and wax in the bucket and let the mitt soak for a minute. Now with the microfibre side go over the paint to lubricate it then turn it over to the clay side. When on the clay side let it glide over the panel not putting pressure on until it glides smoothly then dry panel working from the roof down panel by panel. Also do your windows as you go round the car. Alloys can also be clayed but I'd recommend a car bar for this. Another tip: you will get water in the gaps of the car which will run down the panels. To stop this if you have a vac that takes water you can use this to get it out. Being careful not to catch the paint. Or blow in the gaps to get the water out harder but does work quite well. That's the decontamination part finished Now to deal with the paint swirling and fine scratches. Products needed: Gtechniq P1 Nanocomposite Polish. Gtechniq FP1 Tri Foam Polishing Pad. 2 microfibre clothes. This stage can be time consuming and require a bit of elbow grease. Dampen the white side of the Tri Foam pad a little and apply a small amount of polish and work into the paint in a circular motion applying light pressure. You may need to go over the panel twice to get the best results. Then have 1 damp and 1 dry microfibre cloth. Remove the polish with the damp cloth and then buff up and dry with the dry one. Now it's up to you if you do the all the car with the white side first or work panel by panel using both sides. Now you do the same again with the black side of the pad to polish the car back up and remove the same way. This can also be done on wheels to bring them back to life. A little tip for the P1 it works great as a metal polish for your exhaust pipes with some wire wool or just a cloth. Now the most rewarding stage. Products needed: Angelwax carnuba wax. Angelwax QED quick detailer. Angelwax Ti 22 sealant. Angelwax Vision window cleaner. Angelwax Elixir rubber and tyre dressing. Angelwax H2GO rain repellent. Angelwax bilberry wheel wax. Use the Ti 22 to seal the paint before waxing. This is a spray on wipe off product so apply a light mist to each panel at time then buff up with a microfibre cloth. Now with the wax there is a wide range so chose one that you like and go with that. To apply the wax use the supplied applicator and apply in a circular motion to the hole car and let it set for a few minutes. Or as the instructions state then remove with a microfibre cloth. Then go round the car with the QED this again is a spray on wipe off so is very easy to apply. Which will give you that extra shine and finish. Optional. Then it's the Ti22 again just to seal the wax coat. This isn't necessary but I always do this for the added protection. Then use the Ti 22 on the wheel face and backs if you want too. Then apply the bilberry wheel wax to the wheels again the wheel backs are optional but I always do this. Then apply the elixir to the tyres by either a brush or applicator and use this on all exterior plastics and rubber. You can even do the door seals with this. Last but not least the windows use 2 microfibre clothes for this spray it on and wipe off with one. Then buff up with the other. After this apply the H2GO following the instructions to create a seal on the glass. Now this is optional but it's something I always do on my car after every wash. The engine bay. You can use a pressure washer to do this but be very careful not to soak any electrical parts. The best option and safest is to use a little bit of snow foam or tfr in a hand spray bottle and spray on to the engine bay a little at a time and wipe with an old microfibre cloth the dry with another one until the engine bay is clean. One you've done this once you just need to maintain it by wiping it down with a damp microfibre. Maintaining. I recommend a good wash once a week or fortnight. I know this isn't always practical but as often as you can especially in winter. For this follow the pre-rinse, snowfoam and spongeing step for the body and wheels. Then just do the windows, tyres and trim. Optional. Once a month tar and glue and use fallout remover then top up the wax. I always do this but this is up to you. You can do this at longer intervals. Recommend. Tar and glue and fallout remover every six months. Definitely every twelve months. Recommend. A full detail every six months. Definitely every twelve months after winter. You can skip the swirl mark and fine scratches step if not required. I recommend if you do it at six months to do spring then autumn. If it's every twelve months spring time to get rid of the winter grime. www.angelwax.co.uk www.gtechniq.com www.cleanyourcar.co.uk Hope this helps and gets the results your looking for.

Firstly, I have to say that this topic is amazing. Thanks to Preee for starting it and adding a tonne of awesome information, and massive thanks to Sergey for writing the program too. The only downside to this thread is that it's become a bit of a monster, and it can be hard to find specifics buried in a lot of questions and helpful advice. So, mainly for my own benefit, I decided to add a page to my web site to detail how to do specific tasks, so that the information is quick to get at. Even though pretty much no one uses my web site, I still wanted it to look decent and give props where they're due, namely here and to Sergey, and then added a bit of information about getting the adapter as I had a nightmare finding one that worked. So, it's getting a bit bigger than I expected, but It should still simplify the process of finding the information. As I said, I don't want to be treading on anyone's toes, and I'm not getting anything for doing this, just wanted the information to be quicker to get at. Hopefully this will contribute something positive :) http://darrenlines.co.uk/focus-ELM.php I may start adding write-ups of other things I do to the car too. Anyway, please don't think I'm an ar$ehole, it wasn't my intention.

It is a computer at the end of the day. Sometimes they get their knickers in a twist and the simplest thing to clear the error is to turn it off and on again, lol. If it happens too frequently then take it back to Ford, there might be a software update.