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re the clutch query. I know that on fiesta mk6 it was a common problem for the clutch master cylinder push rod to come detached from the pin sticking out of the pedal - near top of pedal up under dashboard. that problem just needed someone to get there head down by the pedals, look up and hook it back on and put a clip on to stop it sliding off sideways again. you might be lucky and it be a similar problem. Re the oil problem. probably wrecked. all cars have an oil pressure light, some have an oil level light in addition. If the oil pressure light comes on when the engine is running it means the pressure is too low and damage to the bearings - big end bearing, main bearings etc is occurring right there and then. it does not mean carry on until you get round to topping up oil. It really is that bad. If the oil light comes on with engine running you must stop the engine STRAIGHT AWAY and fix the problem which is usually topping up the oil (but in extreme cases can be blocked oil filter due to not changing oil or filter for far too long). I know other people who have wrecked their engine due to thinking the oil pressure light is a warning that they can ignore until they get around to it. I know in this case an attempt was made to get the cap off to top up but it was stuck. But the engine should still have not been run at all until the problem was fixed. Just to hammer it home, if your oil pressure light is on when the engine is running YOU MUST STOP THE ENGINE. Sorry if it sounds harsh but everyone needs to know the importance of this, and reading this might just stop someone else doing the same thing

Those caneras appear to be most likely (99.9%) for the congestion charge or could possibly (but less likely) be ANPR. We don't have congestion charges in Plymouth so can't be 100% but we do have bus lane cameras which are pretty much the same system in functionality. Sent from my SM-G930F

A helicoil is aka a thread insert.

Have you got room to helicoil it?

you going to fit the new engine yourself? its not to bad to remove and refit. and good luck stripping the engine down.

ive seen them twice at earls court and at wembley i was surprised when listening to some iron maiden that i realized that the Metallica song remember tomorrow was actually written and sung by maiden in 1980

me too .id love to see them one last time

glad to help mate i got ths one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331944630222?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Great stuff John,many thanks.Will stop being tight and get the genuine thing ;-)

Im back! i know i shouldn't answer after so long a thread but i think its the correct thing, it could help someone in future. I got my bluefin a couple of weeks back its just that i was quite busy with work and stuff and didn't install it till last week more or less. Okey... lets start by W O W ! ! !. When i installed it, i was excited like a child, the engine was cold so i drove low rev till it heated and actually got to the highway, there i pressed down the gas and DAAAMN!!! its become a complete different animal, its like more aggressive, just perfect. It feels more power in general and as if the car is more light LOL! Anyways, i also wanted to share something that happened just few days ago. I was going back home from a late dinner, when i got into the "highway" (its just two lanes in my place) and it was 3 o clock AM, nobody on the road, just an idiot on an BMW 530 and me. I wanted to really test the Bluefin, so i got the car at max, and the stupid BMW must have thought that i was racing with him or something, the incredible thing is that i don't know if he really did gas or no but my fiesta was definately faster! by very little, and was surprised because the BMW is like 3 times my engine... anyways, just wanted to share this for someone to realise that the change after bluefin is totally WORTH! Thanks to everyone here. Very kind and helpful! Cheers!

i got one like yours from pound shop and it plays up .I got the genuine Samsung charger and works OK

Wee update. Got a subwoofer on eBay for £9 as an experiment so will see how this goes. However spent about 20 minutes going over the wiring schematics... The Subwoofer has 4 wires. A DAB In, SW1 (-), SW2 (-), SW2 (+). From the subwoofer these go to an Inline Connector (assuming this is just a mid point connector in the car). From the Inline Connector the 4 wires go to a Premium Audio Connector at the rear of the Sync unit (think this is called the APIM/ACM) I need to figure out if firstly my car has the wiring installed or tucked away for the subwoofer, and if it has the premium audio connector and finally if the Sync unit is configured to output signals to the premium audio connector. To do that I'll need to take the Sync unit out (unless I find wiring tucked away) and even then I think my loom I made up would be better and less hassle as all my loom is effectively doing is splicing into the front speaker outputs without cutting into the main loom as I used a sound on top (SOT) lead. Does anyone know if I can get to the connectors at the rear of the Sync unit without ripping most of the centre console out.

Hi guys.. this is still for sale. All mods including headunit but excluding intake

Assuming you mean the female thread is stripped... It's potentially a tricky repair. I always hated doing this, especially when the hole was angle sensitive. It's really tricky to drill in a straight line when you can't put the item on a bench drill! You can get various compounds which you put in the hole, re-drill it out, re-thread it with a tap, then put your bolt back in. You can also get some compounds that don't require tapping and all that, but I am not sure about the longevity of these. Failing these two types of repair being possible, you may need to drill the hole out to a larger size, then put in a thread insert.

4. Flags, symbols and identifiers Flags and national identifying letters You can display one of the following flags with identifying letters on the left-hand side of the number plate: Union Flag Cross of St George Cross of St Andrew - also known as the Saltire Red Dragon of Wales The letters, or national identifiers, you can have are: GREAT BRITAIN, Great Britain or GB UNITED KINGDOM, United Kingdom or UK CYMRU, Cymru, CYM or Cym ENGLAND, England, ENG, Eng SCOTLAND, Scotland, SCO or Sco WALES or Wales You’ll still need a GB sticker when travelling in Europe if you display one of these national flags and identifiers. The flag must be above the identifier. You can’t have the flag or letters on the number plate margin, and neither can be more than 50 millimetres wide. Euro symbol If you display the Euro symbol and Great Britain (GB) national identifier on your number plate, then you won’t need a separate GB sticker when travelling within the European Union. The Euro symbol must: be a minimum height of 98mm have a width between 40 and 50mm have a reflective blue background with 12 reflecting yellow stars at the top show the member state (GB) in reflecting white or yellow. From the DVLA website.

Ok so it arrived today and with weather permitting will be fitting tomorrow.

Definitely agree, fuel filter are very prone to clogging up. Yearly change for me.

Hi my name is david I live in Felixstowe by the sea. I have a 2008 c max titanium 2lt tdci.

Just to add these are Mk1.5 headlights (with the front indicator in the headlights) if you're indicator is in the bumper as previously mentioned it's a mk1.

My old corsa would use 1 litre every 1000 miles or so, which the user manual said was ok. This meant I had to check the oil every week at a minimum as i would need to top it up. The oil pressure switch is not measuring level in the tank (like your petrol sender), but measuring the pressure of the oil coming out of the pump - as previously said, blocked or restricted oil filter, or just not enough oil in the sump to pick up on bends. You should NEVER see the oil warning light come on in normal driving (and I have never seen my Focus oil light come on, even in the sharpest of bends I have taken at brisk speed ). A simple one my driving instructors have all taught me - with the exception of the brake warning light on at a standstill (handbrake), if you get any RED warning lights, you MUST stop immediately to minimise the risk of serious damage. Orange lights are not so important and can be checked at the earliest available opportunity.

Hi Welcome

Totally forgot to get that picture! I'll go out to my car now while there is some light!!

Started up the car this morning and a clanking noise began somewhere by the back wheel passenger side. Sounded like a piece of 4 by 4 was rattling around. I checked the back wheel, saw nothing, carried on driving and it stopped. Clanked a bit when I started back and then stopped. Parked on the local playing field then did a 180 degree turn and it started again big time and then stopped. Bizarre. Firstly, what is it and secondly is it expensive? Thanks

Shed Plans

OK, I wanted to split posts in order to make it clear, and Peter replied in the meantime. I was confused because of this: I mixed that with valve in the manifold that moved freely but without spring, like in video: How to check EGR Valve on a Euro 4 engine in a Ford Focus or Transit Connect Peter explained that "The quadrant gear return spring is in the actuator section that you have removed" so OK, it's a relief. thank you very much.

Bike shed

Quad Bike

Hi, Ben from Northampton, new to the site, had my new FocusST-Line for 2 months now and loving it! My Car: Ford Focus St-Line Engine: 1.5 Ecoboost (147hp/240nm) Options Fitted: Colour: Candy Red ST Wheels Door Edge Protectors Sync-2 Navigation Cruise Control/Limiter Convenience Pack (Pics of it in the showroom two days before I collected her)

Why can you not use a powered hub? Ethernet splitters are horrendous. In my (professional) opinion there is never a right situation to use them. If there is only a single cable run and you cannot run another, then put a hub at the end where you need more ports (or indeed, a hub at both ends).

Thank you. Yes I was talking to someone this morning and they have suggested the same thing. I will take a look as soon as I get chance and I will report back here :-)

goes quad

Your profile says 2016 car !! I would say these cars are prone to getting the fuel filter blocked, Ford only change them every 3 years, but I personally would get it changed every year. When was the fuel filter changed?

She goes quite well, not one of my fastest cars I have had. But she is my favourite good looks, feels like a go kart, and comfortable to on a journey.

That sucks to hear mate, If it was an 'experimental' map they should of told you at least before applying it. Hopefully Ford will sort it out but anyone that's on here won't be going there for a remap. In future, try to stick to maps that you know for sure have been tried and tested, but they may of told you that at the time.

Here Goes

Yes just plug in.

I don't think this is a silly question. I too find the question of what engine is fitted most confusing.

Hi guys, picked up my fiesta metal in November last year and so far I love it! First ford I've owned and being 19 the insurance wasn't too bad either.http://

That issue is well known and it's not anything to do with the cambelt. And any engine where the timing belt/chain goes is probably going to need a full or partial rebuild. It's not a problem that is limited to the 1.0 EcoBoost engine.

That's good for the RS. I paid £330 for mine but I only have 5 years ncb thanks to having a company car and having to start again. Lucky I'm an old git haha.

The lack of hesitation and better response could well be real symptoms. There is a lot of communication between IC and PCM, including one of the dual accelerator position sensors. Not sure about the remote control, that is all handled by the BCM (aka GEM) under the glovebox, not much to do with the IC. I think holding in the trip reset stalk while turning on the ignition should put the IC into a test mode, Release the tripmeter reset button when TEST is displayed on the LCD. This may take between 5 and 8 seconds. Forscan can also trigger an IC self-test, which I am fairly sure includes gauge sweep. I did say in my pdf: "don't push the needles on too far!" Great to hear of what hopefully sounds like a result! More on IC secret test mode:

As yours is an Mk1/Mk1.5, it is the Zetec (Zetec-SE) Code Years Displacement (bore x stroke)/Type Power@rpm torque@rpm Compression (:1) 1.6 Zetec-S/SE 1998- 1,596 cc (1.596 L; 97.4 cu in) (79 mm (3.1 in)x81.4 mm (3.20 in)) I4 100 PS (74 kW; 99 hp)@6000 145 N·m (107 lb·ft)@4000 11

Use a plate holder attached to the original screw holes. Insert the plate and then you have no visible holes.

I recently decided time has come for a change. I really like the 17 Inch 8-spoke Y-design wheels but after 6 years I wanted something completely different. The last few weeks I searched for a nice set of wheels. My major requirements were that the wheels had to be brand new or in mint (like new) condition without any damage. Unfortunately I could not find any original Ford wheels that I liked. Eventually I decided to take a closer look at decent aftermarket wheels. After a long search I found a set of aftermarket wheels that I really liked: These are Anzio Turn wheels. These are available in different sizes for several car brands/models. I finally decided to order these wheels in the following size: Brand/model = Anzio Turn Bolt Pattern = 5 x 108 Size = 8J x 18 Offset = 48 mm Color = Polar Silver The Anzio brand is part of the German UniWheels group. The UniWheels group consists of different wheel brands like ATS, ALUtec, RIAL and Anzio. Next to these aftermarket brands UniWheels also produces OEM wheels for many car manufacturers These wheels have a UV resistant protective coating. Because of this the wheels should be very dureable. Anzio even has a 5 Year warranty on all fully painted wheels. Today I received and unpacked the wheels: I am actually quite impressed by the quality of these wheels. They do even have less imperfections than the original Ford wheels I owned so far.The protective coating gives the wheels a nice high gloss finish. Unfortunately the online shop I bought the wheels from sended them with a set of M14 x 1.5 wheel bolts. I ordered the wheels specifically for the Focus MK3 so they should have sent them with a set of M12 x 1.5 wheel nuts. Next to this 2 of the hub caps are missing. Each wheel came in a seperate box which has a cutout to expose the color of the wheel. I suspect that this cutout allowed the hubcaps to fall out during transport. I have not decided yet which tyres I am going to use. Based on specifications, test results and reviews the Vredestein Ultrac Satin tyre drew my attention but the lack of a decent rim protector is a large disadvantage for me. Currently I am leaning towards the Continental SportContact 5 tyres. Fortunately I still have a few Months to decide.

My 17 Inch wheels that I bought new in 2011 came with 205-50-17 Continental SportContact 2 tyres. I used these wheels on a Focus MK2 and a Focus MK3. In my opinion these are really nice tyres on both cars. I only used these wheels during Summer season from approximately April till October. Next Summer season I am going to install 18 Inch wheels. I already ordered a new set of 18 Inch rims. However I have not decided yet which tyres I am going to use. Based on specifications, test results and reviews the Vredestein Ultrac Satin tyre drew my attention but the lack of a decent rim protector is a large disadvantage for me. Currently I am leaning towards the Continental SportContact 5 tyres. Fortunately I still have a few Months to decide.

The Focus MK3 has only one rear brake disc size. Both the 278 mm and 300 mm front discs are combined with 280 mm rear discs. The MK3 has a more advanced braking system than the MK2. The MK3 system compensates and adjusts the brake balance if necessary. However if the car has rear drums I would upgrade them first before upgrading the front discs.

it will pull the balance forward. if you think of a bike, if that bike slams on the front brake too much it will flip over. A car wont flip, its much to heavy but the weight will shift forward, that in its self isn't the end of the world but what can upset your day is losing traction on the rear and the rear brakes may even lock up, it will also decimate the front brake pads as they will effectively be doing all the work. if you change the front springs to much much stiffer springs you can offset the nose dive which will help keep the weight on the rear but that would be horrific to drive on normal roads and wouldn't prevent the front pads taking the brunt of all the energy and could give you real problems on corners if braking without running the numbers on your car its probably got a 70/30 balance as stock with drums, 65/35 with rear 265 discs, increasing it further might change it to as much as 80/20 or 75/25. all in all, its probably a bad idea, not all that sure it will even look any good on 16in rims land rovers have significantly more weight over the rear axle

On my old Mk3, 1.6 Ecoboost, I had a whistle sound approx. 2 - 2.5 RPM , Ford could not find it, I have seen a few similar issues, it has gone down as a resonance vibration sound. It never caused me any problems at all, Ford (Dealer) even added it to my file stating that if there was a problem they would honour any fix out of warranty.