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As we are all looking to make the sound of our media system better a suggest sound deadening I done it with my 5door fez and its vastly improved the sound in the car. Car road noise is now quieter and the sound from speakers so clear you can hear the breath of the person singing. Obv depends on what your listening too but the bass is clearer too no weird noises at all. I have made 2 guides for front doors and rear (for 5door) which you can do yourself with not much effort. I didn't Take much pics of the sound deadening but its Silent coat 30 sheets for 33 quid which aint too bad either :)

Get the store brand - fraction of the price, same active ingredients

Hi Craig, I came across your post while searching for something else. Without other suggestions maybe crates is an idea you could investigate? If you use a crate for the dogs indoors it should be an easy transition. The police, search and rescue, security etc, all use cages within the rear of the car to contain and control the dog(s) Good luck

update: another 1.0 owner (that's 3 now) has reported a melted piston courtesy of AET motorsport. Avoid like the plague

When I came to change the clock for BST I discovered that none of the menu buttons on my 6000cd unit nor the steering column buttons will bring up the menu. When I turn the ignition to position one the dashboard display shows a diagram of the column buttons and labels them. However if you press any of the column buttons it just goes to the normal display (mine is set to how many miles before running out of fuel). Has anyone come across this problem? Would removing the fuse and then replacing it reboot the software?

No it came with the red one, but it was exactly what I was thinking, I was hoping eBay might have a cheap one going but no luck.

Job done today, just low on gas.

*Facepalm* At least you're not after putting a BOV on a naturally aspirated engine lol. As said above, it is completely pointless on a diesel Fiesta.

I don't like that I have another 400 mile round trip to Edinburgh on Friday and I am still feeling like crap despite resting in bed for most of today. Lets hope another day of rest tomorrow can kill whatever it is that's attacking my system and I'll be well again by Friday morning... Thank goodness this happened during some pre-booked annual leave, as I couldn't have called in sick again after only just coming back!!

the control for alternator is via pcm, but the command comes from the bcm and the bcm relys on the battery monitoring sensor that should be attatched to the battery terminal. could be any of those 3 items at fault.

As others have said, the virus is dead. The other cocktail of substances enable your body to react to it - the cold symptoms and generally ill feeling you get are potentially just explained by your body trying to fight the vaccine (which is what gives you your immunity). I have one every year (and have done for a good 4-5 years) - both for my young nephews (and my sister when she was pregnant) health, and also the service users I come into contact with on a daily basis.

The latest Focus manual covers the Ecoboost engine so between that and the Mk 7 Fiesta manual you should be covered well.

I have custom 2x 4 inch exhaust with resonators under boot and a 1500w subwoofer ontop haha and give the doors a try I made guides for to take door cards off its very easy and loss of ppl following my guides

I expected it to be around that price, I've noticed a few bubbles on both arches, so gonna get a few quotes to look at getting the arches done during the summer when I've a fortnight off

I have done a guide for the 5door how to take rear door cards off

I can concur with Kieran ( @GingerFlame ) that 3 people have had issues with map 2 melted pistons and a goosed turbo what other problems with that one still to arise .... Yeah the 140ps is slightly better at mapping with the improved head gasket and gear ratios :)

Thanks GF, Yes, I'd appreciate you sending me the PDF instructions. I'll then have 4 instruction versions (Ford, Haynes, Autodata and your version) for cross reference. I'll PM you my email. Please could you also post on here the method you used to free/remove the crankshaft bolt? I've now received most of the parts. I'll post an update as soon as I get chance. Another issue; I've received the 'Genuine Ford drive belt kit (auxiliary & aircon) (Ford 1829195)' but it has no special tool included It does have a threaded bar with a captive nut and a free nut. Does anybody know what this is for? Does anybody have a Ford belt applicator for sale?

The Mk7 2008-2011 manual should cover most of it as the 2013 is only a facelift. It just won't have the new 1.0 ecoboost in it.

I just looked on Haynes website doesn't look like they make one matey Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

I had a similar problem with my Focus which I traced to a loose connection in the door's wiring harness.

That's all i did too.

I'll be honest, i didn't actually need to remove any of my trim to fit my front camera - it just tucked behind the door seal, the top of the a pillar and the headlining.

They are pretty stiff, I remember on my last zetec with heated mirrors that I had to push pretty hard and also lift the whole thing a little too Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

its called a drop link balljoint , antiroll bar link balljoint, and other names people call them . so ask for a anti roll bar link or drop link. replacement is normaly required when the rubber dust cover splits allowing dirt and water in wearing the ball joint giving excess play. if where your getting them ask if aluminium or steel , yours is aluminuim

Mine started to run like crap. I got a lovely wooshing noise when on boost, a lot less acceleration than normal, it started to run rich and wouldn't coast at idle i.e. in 1st or 2nd the car would normally plod along at idle revs with no throttle applied. It might not be the only thing misbehaving on your car. However looking at your picture it must be a decent sized split to spray oil over the coolant reservoir and engine cover. If I was you I'd get it changed, take the car for a good thrash for 10-15 minutes i.e. 3.5K RPM on the motorway in 4th (commonly referred to on this forum as an 'Italian Tune Up') and report back how you get on.

It's a rolling project, had to get it running and driving correctly first. Mechanicals are my no1 priority, cosmetics will be done. It's only surface rust, car is solid and rot free. :D

Hi Bannko, another one looking for some guidance on how to unlock sat nav function on a 2016 Kuga , many thanks if you could pm me

It'll boil down to if you can afford 4 new wheels of quality. Refurb is the way to go and you can choose the colour and finish etc.

Im Sure no ones interested but i have now fitted my usb port, new shiny knobs and the entire head unit with car launcher running im new to modding my car and i like it. not sure wether using the darker carbon fibre look from the ST would look nicer... ive seen someone do on here

optional extra for only £5 gives you the extra sport mode, allowes you to do this

which also lights up some neon tubes under the car, kicks the amp to position 11 and turns on a small jet engine attached to the exhaust :D

As Ian says use 2 part epoxy. Araldite rapid works a treat and sets quickly. I used it on my rear boot lid handle/trim to fix the clips last year and it's still going strong! :) Hold the bits together with tape whilst the epoxy is setting to stop and movement and you should be ok.

I'd un-clip the pipe and then glue in the stub section with good quality two part epoxy resin, leave to set over night then re-fit the pipe.

Here's my new additions + intercooler

That's a different issue though, not related to different model variants. All Fiesta variants will be made on the same production line. It's just an extension of trim levels. Each trim level is becoming more unique. Also most of the stock pile are probably VW diesels, lol.

Yeah, seems strange the public can pop down halfords for a can and do what they like , but for me to use aircon at work i need training and certification. And then big fines if I'm caught releasing gas to the atmosphere, or even regassing a system to check for leaks .

I've decided to go with Revo, i have a dealer round the corner from me *win*

many options for remap, revo, bluefin, mountune good reputable companies with experience, wouldn't go cheap as chips with a company who dont know what they are doing it will end up blowing up your car. i havnt done one myself but heard good things of the above three. im most likely to go with revo or bluefin in the future.

I'm in the similar situation as you, have a look at my last thread. After some helpful advice I might go with Revo

The new Fiesta is supposed to have a 6 speed mated to the 1.0T. Might be easier with that, given it will be some years.

Much closer ratios. I plotted them out actually on some online gearing calculator. It shows the top speed in each gear and the RPMS that you'll see in the next gear after shifting at the rev-limit See them here: 5spd.pdf 6spd.pdf 3rd gear in our cars is good for nearly 100mph which is just silly.

The long gearing is the main (perhaps only!) thing I don't like about this car. It might be good for fuel consumption figures but it sure doesn't make a comfortable drive around town and other low(er) speed manoeuvres compared to others. It's not so bad once you adjust your driving style to suit but I am jumping in other cars regularly so it is hard to settle fully in! I wish a 6-speed box was fitted as standard to ideally represent the best of both worlds.

not sure if there is a difference , might just be how they present the figures. On the link you give to the data sheet it shows 170 torque remaining the same over quite a wide rev range. 1400 rpm is where that torque level begins, but 2500 rpm is roughly the mid point of the rev range where the torque figure remains at 170. I have never driven one of these engines myself so I can not comment on what it feels like in real life

So since this post I've had the engine remapped to 160 and wow, I can feel it. I've scuffed the hell out of my original alloys so decded to go to wheelbase and get some nice 16s along with elbach lowering springs from pumaspeed. A simple question. Am I Mk 7 or Mk 7.5 Mk 7.5 is Zetec S and Zetec ST right? And Mk 7 just the Zetec ecoboost 1.0? Also, can I put splitter on if I lower the car? Also having a hard time finding a nice grille to fit, want a honeycombe one and the only spoiler I can find on ebay seems to be Mk.6? I've ordered the whole premium light kit from Autobeam including LED indicators. Last question, is there any point in getting an induction kit now ive had the engine remapped to 160? I mean it cant get any faster right? Will just give it a bit of noise? You know what, I'm tempted to just walk into Pumaspeed and say heres 2k, do what you can to make it look and sound as great as you can! Lazy but saves time!

It's called the attitude test. Treat us with courtesy and we reciprocate. Treat us like crap and give us attitude and we're far less likely to be flexible. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

much better

good to hear that mate

No problems with my auto, Bought one as I was fed up messing around with a clutch pedal and a gear lever. Gear changes are very smooth but as stated poor MPG but I don't mind that, I only do 45 miles a month.

You are correct, the fuel economy isn't the best however I am prepared to accept this in return for much better reliability and the convenience of driving an auto through traffic every day to and from work. I have no complaint about the refinement, the newer boxes are indeed an improvement. At work I frequently drive a Mercedes Sprinter diesel with a dual clutch auto and find it really smooth. It's good that the boss has to worry about any potential reliability problems and not me, though I must say that this Sprinter seems OK and I haven't heard the boss complain yet. For impressive auto box performance try a coach or truck with a Volvo iShift. ScaniaPBman

Thanks very much, thats a great appraisal Pete