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    dansallis

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    stef123

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    Drive_Further

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    Jethro_Tull

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/24/2018 in all areas

  1. I made it out of Ikea with a mere £250 of stuff. It's easy to exit their stores, just follow the smell of meatballs [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    3 points
  2. They certainly are! i think you’ll all love the new toy!
    2 points
  3. That's a real shame, the Zetec S models are really nice. Electrical problems are such a massive pain in the *****, especially when everything shows up correct. RIP
    2 points
  4. Yep, you are absolutely correct! I was getting mixed up with the key transmission signal and the vehicle transmission signal. It is the vehicle signal that transmits LF to detect when the key is in proximity, which then activates the key. (I believe). If you can find how/where the vehicle transmitter is, then I guess you could remove it and the PKE system would be ceased. But you'd be playing with fire (as well as your warranty lol!).
    2 points
  5. Another consideration, if there’s fluid getting onto the disc, your pads will be contaminated with fluid aswell.
    2 points
  6. I’ve changed seals and pistons successfully before, it can be a bit tricky so unless you are someone who is into the real mechanics of how these bits are assembled I’d go for chucking a recon caliper on it. You strictly speaking don’t need a flare spanner but do be careful undoing the hose. Any sign of it starting to round off, stop! I had a job on a Peugeot 206 a couple of weeks ago doing rear shoes and cylinders. Thought the brake pipes and securing bolts were never coming out! Bolt heads weren’t even hex shaped anymore! Put some serious heat on them, smoke belching out from the seals in the cylinder lol. Got them all out though with no casualties or 2 piece bolts.
    2 points
  7. There are 2 main geographical landscapes separating the continent of Asia and Europe: the Ural mountains in the north, and the Ural River to the south, both of these geographical features now lie to my west meaning for the first time I have set foot in Asia. In fact the Ural river is frozen this time of year, so my first trip into Asia I actually walked across the frozen ice which in itself is a doubly cool feat from my perspective. Continent number 2 for the Fiesta, very, very proud! Western Kazakhstan is amazing, and I'll try to write in detail about my short time here when I have better battery life in the laptop. I really wish I could have stayed in this region longer. However my goal was to enter Uzbekistan asap, I have a single month, single entry Visa for Uzbekistan which started on the 1st January and expires 31st January 2018. I explored the Greater Caucasus for longer than originally planned which has had a rough knock on effect in my itinerary. Today after a very long drive (due to road surface in the region , approx 100 miles takes about 3 hours) I've crossed from Kazakhstan into Uzbekistan and write this from their city 'Nukus' I've already had a very friendly welcome; from the border guards amazed by my presence - to the friendly drivers giving me a warm thumbs up and toot toot. My car remains dirty which is a good thing; I have written in Russian on my bonnet in big letters 'Hello from an Englishman' this has resulted in an accumulation of various forms of reply; randoms welcoming me to their regions or country. I'll travel to Tashkent over the coming week, but for now I'll rest for a couple of days and explore the region. Attached are a few pictures, including the frozen Ural River. Also, I was able to capture a 'rainbow' which in-fact curved in on itself near the horizon making a 270 degree arc, but as there was no moisture in the sky I assume this was some form of solar/atmospheric effect caused by the sun (it almost looks like camera flare, but I assure you it isn't, I was deliberately trying to photograph this phenomenon.) Its difficult to photograph the true scale of these steppes... perfect flat lands for thousands (literally, as they stretch into Mongolia) of miles. If there's is something on the horizon like a power pylon, its noticeable, and evident I must have a view range of 10 square miles at least.
    2 points
  8. Only something I've noticed since starting to drive the car more at night (bought in May so no night driving really before winter) but the headlight angle seems to be very low, really only lighting about a car's length in front of me. The adjuster on the dash is set to its highest (0) setting so its not that. I can think of a few possible reasons and would value what other folk think: 1 - Since putting whiter bulbs in, the spread of light is generally poorer and this is to be expected. 2 - Since farting around with the headlights (removal to fit other stuff etc), I've inadvertently screwed something up. If I have, I've also inadvertently performed the same screw up to the same degree on both lights, as the pattern appears to be even (ie, not one light higher than the other). 3 - That's just the way modern cars are these days. Basically, I find that driving at night, I'm either having to put my full beams on almost all the time, or else only able to see about 15 feet in front of me or about to the next white line in the centre of the road. Coming from a 2004 Mk1, I can't remember ever having these problems and rarely needed to use full beam. I don't know why, but it makes me much more edgy when driving at night... It's due an MOT in mid Jan so that's something I'll mention specifically, but was wondering if others had similar problems? Cheers.
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. Full NCB and similar age we pay £265 for an old 1.6 Petrol and £240 for a new 1.5 diesel, both fully comp with protected NCB and other named drivers. That's with LV. I don't think colour makes a difference as you can quote on a car model without a reg, and I don't recall being asked about colour.
    1 point
  11. I have a dealer-fitted Ford detachable towbar. To enable features like disabling parking sensors when the trailer detected and trailer showing on screen, you will need the dedicated electrics, programmed to the car... Oh, and a post-November 2016 build date for all the features to work! My dealer said fitting the towbar to the Edge was the easiest they have ever done! The towbar is great and has no effect on parking sensors (I never detach my towball) or the hands free boot release. The only thing to bear in mind is that you will probably crack your shins on it when trying to use the foot switch... Or is it just me being clumsy? On mine, the 13 pin connector is a tight fit and is tucked away underneath the bumper, requiring you to get on your hands and knees to plug in your trailer electrics. The fitting for the break-away cable is well and truly underneath and needs you to lay on the floor to connect... a foam kneeler mat is essential!
    1 point
  12. i hope you changed the pads on the other side also, or you may end up with brake imbalance between left and right side of car ( and hence steering pulling when braking).
    1 point
  13. Well it failed. On the headlight pattern being too low! Had Philips bulbs in already so knew it wasn't a bulb problem although would like to out osram hyperblues in to match my DRLs like @kpg's sexy vehicle :)
    1 point
  14. http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/93025-home-rust-treatment-guide/?tab=comments#comment-664458
    1 point
  15. That's a shame buddy, it has certainly served you well over the years. Looking forward to seeing your new workhorse! Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  16. cheers chaps - job done pretty smoothly. No massive hiccups except having to dash to Halfords fo get that flare spanner, my normal one wasn't budging the nut and I wasn't going to risk rounding it off. Good job done and a boost to my confidence.....
    1 point
  17. Thanks To be honest it doesn't seem any different from other free software that I have such as Touchscan. The only difference I can see is the pats programming etc in terms of live data and pulling DTC codes it seems standard.
    1 point
  18. Hi to all, I am in Kent own a fiesta metal black 👍
    1 point
  19. If its not showing a code then coil pack and/or leads is likely to cure it. How you getting on with Forscan?
    1 point
  20. Ah ok, if your budget covers the mk3.5 that's definitely better looking than the mk3 both inside and out, I'm not sure of the spec differences between Titanium and TX on them though as they're still way out of my budget lol. Some Titanium's did get a load of optional extras so you might find one that's almost a TX but without the X price tag...
    1 point
  21. Hello! New member, wouldn't call myself a car fanatic but I can appreciate a good model. I do love my fiesta, hoping i'll be able to get some advice on couple of issues with it. Time to scout the forum for help and advice.
    1 point
  22. The Keyless Entry System uses a High Frequency (HF) radio transmitter in the keyfob that sends short bursts of encrypted data to the vehicle which will decrypt it. The vehicle then unlocks the corresponding door based on which keyfob button you pressed. This is slightly different to the Passive Keyless Entry System that doesn't require any action on the keyfob at all. It works based on a Low Frequency (LF) radio signal (typically 21.8 kHz, 125 kHz or 134 kHz) that is transmitted from the vehicle by several LF emitter antennae, usually found in or around the door handles and boot handles. This is only able to send a signal a couple of metres unlike the HF signal which can travel up to 100m. In our versions of the PKE System we are required to press a button on the door or boot which begins the process by emitting the LF signal, creating a field of a couple of metres around the vehicle. If in range, the keyfob will detect this signal and transmits the HF signal (again in short bursts) which will then unlock the corresponding door/doors based on which button on the vehicle you pressed. Other versions of the PKE System, which unlock the vehicle as you walk up to it, emit the LF signal constantly (periodically) instead of only once a button on the car is pressed. Below is a quick outline of what happens when a thief steals a vehicle in this manner (THIS IS NOT A GUIDE): Stand next to the vehicle. Press the button on the door handle (beginning the emission of the LF signal). Boost the signal using a cheap (probably DIY) battery powered LF signal booster. This will then be able to find the key within the house (providing there is nothing in the way blocking the signal). The keyfob will then think it is within proximity of the vehicle and send out its normal HF radio signal, unlocking the doors. This process is repeated for the ignition button. However, the keyfob must be detected inside the vehicle, so they replicate the keyfob's HF signal (from the ignition button press) whilst inside the vehicle. The vehicle then starts. I am not sure why there is a difference between the burst length when pressing the buttons on the keyfob and on the door. I can only assume it is to distinguish the difference between the two (for the vehicle's sake) or for encryption purposes. I really hope I don't get banned for this post. DISCLAIMER: THIS IS NOT FROM PAST EXPERIENCE!
    1 point
  23. Ikea stuff is excellent and a doddle to assemble. 2 sliding wardrobes with 2 4 draw chests and 2 bedside chests took me a day. Was recommended 2 people do but a 2m high wardrobe is easy to stand up alone and the sliding doors are heavy but easy to hang. I like ikea stuff but hate the shop as it's a nightmare to find your way out
    1 point
  24. Hi everyone I’m happy to be here part of the community of Ford. I have Ford Fiesta mk6 1.4 tdci climatic zetec this is my second Ford. my first Ford was Ford Fiesta 2002 1.25 zetec and was the best first car
    1 point
  25. I've just insured mine focus 2011 1.6 petrol tit x..i'm 52 9yrs no claims.£290 from the RAC that's with 2 extra drivers on the policy at full comp.
    1 point
  26. Hi I'm Mark from Lancashire just thought id put a quick introduction on here say hi, I'm the owner of a 99 escort 55 van and love it! Slow but full of character 😂😆 hope to talk to many of you gain some knowledge and hopefully hand some out if possible too, thanks! 🙂
    1 point
  27. Any Ford dealer can turn it off for you.
    1 point
  28. I can't remember who my insurer was at the time but I had it on my policy for no extra cost. I have a stainless exhaust declared on my current policy with Admiral for no extra cost too.
    1 point
  29. Yes it is a problem, and (probably unsurprisingly) very easy to do. As far as I am aware, there is no way in which you can disable the PKE system without having to go through loads of re-programming. Thieves only get away with this when people keep their keys near the front of their house, where their vehicle is right outside. Fortunately, the key transmits a low-frequency radio signal (which is what the thieves use to steal your car), which can be blocked completely by metal. So, by putting your keys in a small metal box or metal key cabinet will make it impossible for anyone to steal your car without actually having the key.
    1 point
  30. Brim the tank, drive for 4 days, then brim the tank again, work out your MPG from that and see if the engine really is using that much fuel, or if your fuel sender is faulty. I think you'd notice using 25L of fuel instead of closer to 5L! Your car must smell beautifully rich!
    1 point
  31. Ref: stuck drum brakes. Yep, happens in my car all the time. Wash car, put it away, they groan the next morning. Happens in the Jaaaag as well, rear discs notwithstanding. I would like to meet the man who invented drum brakes, and shake him warmly by the throat. My 1983 Mini Shi*te, er, I mean Sprite. Drums all round, 1275, 10 inch alloys. Like The Terminator, it absolutely would not stop after you'd washed it. Lesson well learned. As Dee says, insurers don't like you mucking about with braking systems. Another lesson learned when I changed my R6 Rover Metro from a 1.4 GTa to a 1.8 VVC. 75BHP to 160 BHP we can do, but brake mods? Er.... tell us about it.
    1 point
  32. nothing hard but quite a few steps, you need new hand brake cables, brake hoses, caliper, carrier, splash shields and some bolts, heres a guide made by one of our very own members, Drum brake to Disc brake conversion.pdf hardest part was disconnecting the old drum and getting the parts you need, one word of caution, Mr insurance will want to know and most insurers wont touch brake modifications.
    1 point
  33. Ordered some interior LEDs from AutoBeam and they arrived today so I decided to fit them. Red footwell LEDs, Ice white courtesy light, reading lights and boot light. Got rid of all the horrible yellow tinted bulbs that come as standard! Apologies for the quality, only had my phone to hand:
    1 point
  34. i found it quite tricky changing the seals on them, when I did my rear disc conversion I recon'd some Volvo calipers, much cheaper than buying new but if your in a hurry, its maybe not the best option.
    1 point
  35. On my Sync 3 tapping the touch screen number shown in the top right on the nav screen toggles between distance remaining, time remaining or estimated arrival time. On Sync 3 you can pinch to zoom, a bit like using a mobile phone, or adjust the zoom level to show a lesser/greater map area using the on screen control. I think there also a setting that auto increases zoom at junctions to show more detail.
    1 point
  36. mot fail. i wouldnt drive it if it is brake fluid on the brake disc!!
    1 point
  37. That’s exactly what prompted me I’d been thinking about it since I got the car but kept putting it off. If you do don’t use the Bluetooth app as they can read the rf just like with keys. Get yourself a faraday bag for keys make sure you keep them upstairs at night and think about cctv as well. Finally get some ultion locks for your doors check the video in this link https://www.ultion-lock.co.uk/ www.tomholroydphotography.co.uk Sent from my iPhone
    1 point
  38. If it is, we are in deep trouble!
    1 point
  39. Is intelligent 4WD similar to smart motorways?
    1 point
  40. When you get to the lights in the video he veers over to my side as he turns onto the round about, you can see this as he actually goes over the lane divider lanes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  41. I'd just get a mount for my phone and use google maps
    1 point
  42. If its the old Sync i wouldnt bother as there were hardly any updates and they did nothing of note. Sync 1 & 1.1 is the one with the mono colour screen and the applink apps are all music apps and are all useless! Sync 2 & 3 has colour touchscreen etc and is quite good. If you are desperate for the updates you can get them on utorrent or by buying one of the dodgy Ford TIS CD's on ebay!
    1 point
  43. Ford briefly made this available on their website for the UK. Being a 66 plate I'm not sure if there's any more updates for yiu to do anyway. Certainly none that add any new features I don't think. If it's not broken don't fix it I'd say here. I've heard of these updates breaking a few things until the next one comes out.
    1 point
  44. Also zetec s / ST leather steering wheel. If you want a clean steering wheel then the zetec s would be good as the ST wheel is the same but has the ST badge on it.
    1 point
  45. You can also change the seats for a set if st seats and some angel eye headlights tint the rear windows climairs focus st wheels
    1 point
  46. I've recently crossed onto the Western Steppes, and successfully crossed into Kazakhstan. The border itself this time of year is rather unique, from experience a conventional border crossing via road consists of a country's exit border, a section of 'no man's land' then the new country's entry border. However the border between Russia and Western Kazakhstan lies across a section of the Reka Kigach river which at this time of year has frozen over. You have the Russian exit border, but then stretched across the bridges are a series of no less than 2 Kazakhstan check-points. At each checkpoint you're issued a stamp and the car is roughly checked for contraband, when you finally arrive at the Kazakhstan entry border across the river you present your stamps as proof you've legitimately traveled via road across the frozen river and haven't simply illegally driven across the frozen ice. One of my last Russian cities before crossing is unique. Named Elista, a fascinating region, and the only part in all of Europe which is Buddhist. The steppes here are a sight, flat grasslands for as far as the eye can see, remarkable. Herds of animals wander freely. I should cross the Ural river by car for the first time in the coming day and therefor arrive in the continent of Asia for the first time. Washing the car is futile!
    1 point
  47. I would agree with this statement. Having just bought a mk3, the main beam is completely inadequate!
    1 point
  48. Behind the wheels in the arches and under the bonnet my Fusion (mechanically a Fiesta MK6.5) was showing early signs of tin worm. Time for some rust preventative. However, I'm a) tight and b) convinced I can do better, so instead of buying some Waxoyl I decided to make my own. You will need: 300g of paraffin wax flakes. Dirt cheap on eBay, or you can take a cheese grater to a candle if you like. 2 litres white spirit. 2 litres if light oil. I only had new engine oil, so I used a litre of that and a litre of duck oil. A garden sprayer, the pump up type. 1. Chuck the wax flakes into the white spirit. Put the container somewhere warm, and stir it every few days. Within a week you should have a liquid that looks like a smooth wallpaper paste. 2. Pour in your oil, and mix thoroughly. 3. Decant the lot into your sprayer. 4. Take a wire brush to any rust, paint on some rust killer/rust remedy to neutralise it. 5. Heat up your goo in a bucket of hot water, or by placing it on a warm radiator for a few hours. 6. Shake it like buggery. Shake it some more. 7. Pump up your sprayer, and get spraying. I did inner wings, underside, rear valance behind the bumpers, inside structural members, inside doors, absolutely everywhere. 8. Wipe off unwanted over spray with white spirit. 9. Allow to dry for a day or so. Warm, or better still hot, weather helps. The white spirit will evaporate out. However, the oil will remain leaving the wax slightly soft so it don't crack or flake. Any minor stone chips etc will eventually bleed over. Nothing repels water like wax. Stick your head underneath after a drive in the wet and the water will be beading and running off, it simply will not stick or accumulate. Its proven to to be effective, durable and cheap. With luck you can make it with items you have laying around. The ingredients above will give you enough to do a really thorough job on one car. The results are visibly thicker than store bought Waxoyl, and give a nice, thick, seriously effective coating, which creeps into joins and seams very well indeed.
    1 point


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