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You'll have to be a bit clearer as to what the upgrade is. If it's an HID headlamp upgrade you're asking about, did you swap the ballast too, I'd suspect that's at fault. Put it back to what it was designed for, OE lights aren't the best, but looks like retrofit HID will fail MOT soon anyway

Check these out. https://www.darkicedesigns.com/en/ford-mondeo-parts/154-ford-mondeo-mk4-bonnet-gas-strut-kit.html URL is wrong but page is right. £35 bargain. My order is placed :)

Have bled the system and put fresh anti-freeze mix in, and it still made no difference to the lack of heat. So i have removed the hcv and replaced with a couple of pieces of pipe. This is a temporary measure, once i have purchased a new one, it will be put back to how it should be. Thanks all for the advice.

I changed my oem headunit out and removed the stock Bluetooth/voice module and microphone and sold them with the headunit. New one came with it all built in and the new mic sits neatly above the int mirror and is hardly noticeable

Call the car Clarence [emoji41] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

You can get struts from NB styling. It's made for the mk6 fiestas. I think also someone on YouTube made a video fitting them in.

Not sure yet so will post a guide when done :)

Hi can I also join the list for the bannko process thanks in advance

Get one custom made from powerflow or a company near you, will be better than any eBay ones, but try demon tweeks too

If air is getting in the fuel filter housing, then that is where the fault lies! It is normally under suction while running, so any leaks will allow air in. But there was also someone with a Mk1 Focus, who had a cracked & perished pipe from the filter to the pump. That would do the same. On older diesels, cracking the injector nuts was normal. But common rail diesels run at much higher pressure (21,000PSI, and that is for real!), and have leak off pipes from each injector. So the High Pressure side of the pump is self priming, and opening up any of the critical, metal to metal sealed high pressure unions is not recommended. It can lead to leaks, or wear debris from the unions getting into the injectors. Using a hand pump (before the filter) to ram fuel (as hard as you can) into the main pump is the recommended procedure for these, or a good vacuum hand pump connected to the fuel return pipe from the diesel pump is also a good way to prime them. These methods avoid the risk of getting dirt into the very sensitive and very expensive pump and injectors.

As above, Titanium X Nav has all your requirements. Titanium can also be specced with them. Loads more stuff available on Titanium X too, like full leather, front parking sensors dress-up kit, 17" alloys, active city braking. Although it took me many months of searching to find one, had to decide whether to have dress-up kit or front sensors, as you can't have both.

A very possible link between fuel filter and hesitations or jerking, especially with no error codes, is air getting into the system. The system up to the main pump is under suction, including the filter housing. Even a tiny bit of air getting in will, as it goes through the system, cause fuel rail pressure dips, and hence power dips. If the filter is getting clogged, that increases suction, making leaks worse. But if the filter has just been changed, it is more likely the housing has not fully re-sealed, and is letting air in. Try replacing the sealing ring, checking for any damage to the housing, and re-tightening the filter housing. You will need to re-prime after this to start the car.

Recently my 5 Inch FCDIM (display) stopped recognising the SD-card once in a while and the PDC / Active Park Assist sometimes froze. I was quite annoyed with it so I decided to replace the FCDIM. After some research I discovered that the latest generations of the 5 Inch FCDIM directly support a rear view camera. There is no longer the need to install the (original or Russian aftermarket) rear view camera module. After some searching I found a latest generation 5 Inch FCDIM with part number F1BT-18B955-DC. The display was advertised as being in mint condition and came from a 2017 Fiesta. This part number was officially never used in a Focus MK3. However comparing/cross referencing part numbers suggested that this part number should be fully backwards compatible with my old FCDIM with part number BM5T-18B955-DC. I took a gamble and ordered the FCDIM. Latest generation versions of the 5 Inch FCDIM can be identified by the green 4-pole Rosenberger (also called Fakra) HSD connector for the camera input. Older versions of the 5 Inch FCDIM have a white normal Fakra connector for the camera input. After I installed the FCDIM I decided to test the rear view camera input first before ordering a suitible rear view camera. I activated the rear view camera function in the Central Car Configuration and used my camcorder as an input. As expected the rear view camera functionality works perfectly. I ordered a suitible NTSC rear view camera and some components to build an Rosenberger HSD --> RCA adapter cable. When these arrive I can finish this project. When I installed new FCDIM I discovered that the matt chrome trim on the steering wheel showed some minor bubbles. When I investigated the problem I immediately cut my finger on the razor sharp edge of the chrome. This is a well known problem on the Focus MK3. I decided to remove the steering wheel airbag to search for a possible solution for this problem. The matt chrome trim has several tabs at the back which are plastic welded to the airbag cover. To be able to remove the matt chrome trim I carefully drilled the plastic weldings. After I removed the matt chrome trim from the airbag cover the problem turned out to be even bigger than I expected. On the top end of the trim the matt chrome was completely loose and could easily be peeled off. In my opinion this is caused by a fault in the manufacturing process. The plastic part is not properly finished before it was chromed. The plastic trim has pretty sharp casting edges at the top. These are no longer visible after chroming. However the layer of chrome is a lot thinner on top of the casting edges. I suspect that during time the chrome cracks and comes loose as a result of temperature differences. Unfortunately the matt chrome trim is part of the airbag assembly and not available as a spare part. The only option from Ford is a brand new airbag. Some Asian (mostly Chinese) companies offer replacement airbag covers. However after I read several bad reviews it was pretty clear that this was no option for me. So I decided to remove the chrome from the trim. Because of the shape of the part mechanically removing the chrome is no option so I decided to remove the chrome chemically. The trim is made of a plastic alloy of PC/ABS which has a very good resistance for several chemicals. After some experiments I ended up with regular bleach. However this is pretty time consuming and the bleach needs to be changed every 24 Hours to be optimally effective. After 4,5 days the layer of chrome and the layer of copper underneath were completely gone. However the trim was still covered with a black coating which I suspect was used to properly bond the copper to the plastic. This coating could not be removed with bleach. After some experiments hydrochloric acid turned out to do the job perfectly. The result was a perfectly clean trim that was ready for further processing. The black coating arround the tabs at the back of the trim was applied at the factory to prevent the chrome from bonding on the tabs. None of the cehmicals I used did affect this coating. After considering several options I decided to paint the trim using metallic silver spraypaint. This is actually the same color as my wheels. I applied 2 layers of primer, 2 layers of metallic silver and several layers of laquer. The result turned out really nice. The paint has a nice deep shine and looks absolutely stunning. I installed the trim onto the airbag cover by inserting all tabs of the trim into the corresponding holes of the airbag cover. Afterwards I used hotglue to fixate the tabs. I am very pleased with the result. The trim looks stunning and the materials to achieve this result only costed me less than €20,-.

Machine polisher is by far the best method - but it's also easy to do damage with them as you say. You want a DA (dual action) to reduce the risk of burning the paint but it's still well worth getting a scrap wing to practice on first.

Titanium comes as standard with keyless start and DAB. Titanium X also gets a rear parking camera. Sat Nav comes as standard on Titanium Navigator ut can be chosen as an option on others. So you're looking for a 'Titanium X Navigator' or a standard TX with the sat nav option for those items.

Lol so much for my S.D card,that wins.

I'm only an hour and twenty minutes away from the Foyle bridge!! Never say never!!

Lol you'll be fine Dame' any way it's no big issues for us car saviours 💪

+1 for the fuel filter. My MK2 Focus 1.8 TDCi does about 12K a year and I service it every summer but had started to get a bit sluggish recently. Today, a £6 Bosch fuel filter later and she flies again, I'm always amazed how critical the fuel filter is on modern common rail diesels and also how crappy the filters look after just 6 months. (I lobbed it in the bin but probably should have took a photo). IMHO if anyone with a TDCi is experiencing lumpy running/sluggish pick up on light throttle etc other than cleaning the 2 easy to reach sensors and making sure the air filter is crapped up, also swapping out the fuel filter is a cheap step that won't hurt things and might just fix the issue.

It largely explains the number of current reg German cars knocking about, that and company car schemes. On a vaguely related note in terms of "badge snobbery", the brother-in-law was "showing off" his new company Passat a couple of years ago, we went for a "drive", his Passat against my on demo Mondeo Vignale AWD TDCi estate....let's just say he saw a lot of the backside of the Mondeo! (now I just need to save up for one!) Joking aside I guess if someone really values having a "new" car on the drive and isn't inclined to get involved directly in the maintenance of their car then PCP may be a decent option. Personally I'm like the "fiddling" so old school HP works for me. (MK2 Focus 1.8 TDCi 146K miles and still all original in terms of the expensive bits.....although now I've said that the DMF will probably explode on Monday morning )

I have autoglym super resin polish and the sealant which goes with it. I don't think I'm going to use them as I have fusso coat soft 99 which is claimed to last 12 months and I've been looking at britemax black max as a glaze. Need to practice using a machine polisher so I can compound and polish the car. This video justifies the britemax

You can usually find a 50% off code for brake stuff at Euro Car Parts. If not then check to see if the price is less at Car Parts For Less. It's the same company just a different website. The boxes usually come with ECP stickers on anyway.

never been a fan of in the tank fix all problems additives' having said that my Sons 1.8 tdci suffered a similar problem even after changing fuel filter problem was on his car was the inlet manifold pipe from the intercooler was virtually choked with oily crud, we cleaned all pipes up to the egr valve which was also coked up

Best thing with carpro Perl is that it's an all in one for tires, interior and exterior trims. Best thing aswell is that for trims you need to dilute it meaning your not using a lot of the product. For tires I think you need it neat concentration. Also when your cleaning the rubber door seals use a microfiber cloth and you'll see how much black dirt comes off. The dirt sticks to the rubber. Here's a review on it. Do recommend watching this guys videos as he's into detailing and I have bought products he recommended and have been happy with them

Here you go

I've been hearing bad things about CEUK and there products. @Loftie12 bought from them and was not happy with the bulbs. I'd recommend autobeam as they give either a 2 or 5 year warranty plus their 'performance' range of lights are super bright. Customer service is really good also, I recently bought 7 c5w bulbs from them and 2 sadly don't work so they said to send it back for an exchange and they also pay for postage if you send a picture of the receipt of postage to them. Like Jonro said I'd not use LEDs as main lights as they don't really give out a good throw of light. Philips do halogen bulbs called xtreme vision which says gives a little more whiter light and 120% extra brightness so you will see that it has a really long throw of light. @ToXIcG installed these and there was a clear difference in colour compared to the standard halogen bulbs. They also do another kit called white vision which says gives a xenon white light but 80% more light. Use code SIGNUP10 to get a discount on autobeam 👍.

I followed the manual instructions. I used 5 full turns but if I use force it will turn clock wise and anti clockwise. There is no lock pin. I drove with it and it doesn’t move when I shift gears. It is precise like a sniper rifle and does make a difference. I used 7 turns to try to lock it but it hides the reverse lock too much. So I went back to the recommended 5. Reverse gear works fine but I feel the bulkness of the knob which is very manly hahah! Best 200 euros I spent and steeda shipped in 1,5 days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I just came back from my dealer. I parked the car in their garage, went to the head mechanic, first things he said after hi, Houston we got a problem. Ford gave my dealer an urgent instruction last night to not touch the car. Even though I had all the parts, they found an issue with one of them. I do not have additional details but they need 2-3 weeks to make sure the new part arrives for my car. I was a bit disappointed but I told them that I want the car done properly from the get go and not have it in the shop. I had an original appointment, before the recall thing, for the 1st of March for my yearly control. They will fix my car then worse case scenario. Should Ford give them the green light and the parts faster, i will get a phone call. On a Mod note, I caved and I found something on the Steeda website :D. It was pricey and shipping cost was brutal but I got it in a day and a half.

Thanks Andy. Really appretiate the help. I think its a problem with the electric control on the dash. Yesterday afternoon. Ive had the heater matrix out. Flushed it no problem. Its not leaking too. Hcv is letting hot water through and letting it return back through via the matrix. Im thinking the control dial has packed up. Thought it might be cable operated but its an electrical unit. Trying to hunt for one of them now but they seen rarer than rocking horse s....t.

More top notch diagnosing by Kwik Fit. https://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/student-driver-bursts-tears-kwik-11974888.amp If someone asks why you think Kwik Fit is a waste of time, just show them this article and I'm sure it will put them off. It's one thing saying the AC compressor is bad when it's perfectly fine but it's a whole different story when there isn't one to go wrong in the first place.

It seems common sense isn't that common with (sadly) my generation of people. Unless you've had the car for 30 seconds, I'm pretty sure you would spot the button that said AC, even in a crummy French hatchback. Even then you should've taken it for a test drive and made sure the AC works. The first thing I do before setting off on a test drive is turn the AC on for the whole journey. I guess that's what she gets for leaving the kitchen I would have loved to see what would have happened if they said go ahead with the work and Kwik Fit tried to replace this non-existent AC compressor. They'd probably change the power steering pump and fill it with refrigerant instead of power steering fluid.

It would indeed. (Apologies; I should've suggested that straight away given the time of year - I couldn't shake off the nightmare summer days being roasted!)

You’re welcome @Liam40 I suppose in the interest of fairness I should probably say that not all Halfords fitters are bad (laws of probability), but all the times I have given them a chance they have messed up. And I’ve not heard any good reviews from friends. When buying a dash cam I would recommend your dad gets the best one he can comfortably afford, preferably with GPS. it’s GPS that is going to show what speed you were doing in the event of any accident. When it comes to these purchases, you usually get what you pay for Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My 2017 st

im a rebel, handbrake on, wheels straight. in neutral. have done since having a licence without incident.

ford just quoted £226 for a second-year service. reduced to £190 after a bit of a haggle. ended up taking it to Halfords who did the job for £135. on both years I've asked ford for a price they have been close to £100 more and I can't see me getting that back at the other end

So HOW TO ENABLE AUTOLOCK on Focus MK3 and MK3.5 1. Buy ELM327 diagnostic cable, plenty of them on ebay. As a search string type this: ELM Forscan https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.XELM+Forscan.TRS0&_nkw=ELM+Forscan&_sacat=0 2. Download and install laterst version of software Focccus: http://ford.xtlt.ru/FoCCCus/ (current one is: FoCCCus_0.8.6.zip) 3. Download and install latest version of software Forscan: http://forscan.org/download.html (current one is: 2.3.11 beta for Windows) 4. Connect your laptop with ELM cable. 5. Start Focccus and on the initial TAB click READ FROM BCM - the car begins to blink like a christmas tree with warnings, it is hard to watch but ingnore it, lol 5b. At this point click another button "Save to file" to create a backup file and save it to your computer. Just in case. 6. Find line # 32 /- "Automatic locking by speed" and set new value to "Automatic locking" 7. Click WRITE TO BCM - and again be patient :) Using FOcccus will always cause that few DTC errors stays in the car. So: 8. Start program Forscan and click on the DTC icon. 9. Click small button to read DTC codes and after scan click another button to reset DTC codes. 10. Your car should be then clean from errors and happy driving with autlock :)

managed to get a pic tonight you can see the yellow seating the o ring site below this