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The Mk3 was put into production before the ruling came in about all new cars needing to have DRL's, therefore didn't have them on anything other than the Titanium X and ST-3, and an option on the others. The MK3.5 they are standard on the ST-2, ST-3, RS, Zetec-S and titanium X, optional on the titanium and zetec. The MOT changes in May meaning aftermarket HID's are basically a straight fail from what I can remember. Taken from the new MOT inspection manual: "Some vehicles may be fitted with High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlamps. It is not permitted to convert existing halogen headlamp units for use with HID bulbs. If it is clear that such a conversion has been carried out, rather than replacing the entire unit with one designed and approved for use with HID bulbs, the headlamp should be rejected. " I don't have much of an idea on how to fit them, but I can tell you now it's not a plug and play job and is probably more hassle than what it's worth.

http://www.etis.ford.com

Hammer? Pah! I just hold up a picture of Chuck Norris staring and the parts simply fall off.

stef, have you got post notifications set to a certain key word?? you and your toffee hammers

Hi I can help anyone who wants power folder mirrors on mk3 facelift focus. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXXIgQ5CJjc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWOIpYe69l4

Titanium x picked up yesterday.iceberg blue..it was the sunroof that had me hooked . Not had one since my Mk2 Orion Ghia!

I assume they checked the battery an alternator when you were there? That would be my starting point

Hi.

Agreed mate 👍 I found my next mod....but need to keep some things as a suprise 😉

havent got a ka, but can tell you the diesel ka has chain drive so no replacement interval.

How she's currently sitting 🖤 Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

Had a successful weekend of wrapping. Decided to carry on with the other dull grey plastics on the car and wrapped my boot handle and all bump strips along the side of the car. Very pleased with the results as the off grey bits really did bug me when looking at the car from a distance! Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

Drilled ones crack between the holes and grooved ones wear out pads quicker and cause more dust. Best to stick to normal ones on a road car.

Hi Newbie here. I just purchased a 2009 c-max...lovely car (had 2 fiestas before) Samantha.

Hi I’m newbie paul I have a Ford Ka mk2 2010 and need help

My current smile a mile

7zap website If you don't know your VIN, use ETIS to find it and copy it into 7zap.

@Mike2017 only the jealous wouldn't like it mate, personally I wouldn't go any lower due the work you've put in to it n like l said there are some aggressive speed bumps so risking ripping the the front end off for a bit of low'ness isn't worth it if rather keep it as it is 👍

That is one of the Best if not thee best vans around. Stand aside VW here comes the mighty Ford . I expected it looking this awesome. Yunii Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Thank you mate, I’m really pleased you like it 👍

stationary is ok. basically have it on idle and note the values, then rev the engine briefly checking if the values change.

@DaveD90 if l had seen this earlier l could have mentioned that 😂 the MK1 has the same problem wireing in a stupid place... Why put it where your feet go ?

@Mike2017 now that looks ***** brilliant mate definitely the best connect around and probably the best best looking work motor too👍 remember thoe on the front end lowering speed bumps there's some right aggressive 1's around hull.

They've done well to fall out. I removed them to fit my dash cam (twice😠) and they were a bit of a pain to pry out. There wasn't a chance my fingers could do it. Had a quick look on microcat and you'll need part no. 1804235. However just had a look on ebay and it's near enough £14. Best bet would be go to a scrap yard/breakers yard. That yards that you remove bits yourself probably wouldn't even charge you for it as they appreciate you being honest rather than shoving it in your pocket. Shouldn't cost more than a couple quid at any other yard though.

Thanks again for this info, it's a big help, I wouldn't even take on to tackle it without your knowledge. I've been thinking and trying to absorb all the info over the last few days. I feel a little in over my head with this issue, but would like to learn a bit more about programming / coding so would like to tinker with it myself to an extent, but i'd still like the easiest option so I don't get bogged down. I have a genuine copy of VCDS Vagcom which I have used to do a few things with on my own Golf and some family members Vag cars, like changing little coding settings values to make the key fob open all doors on 1 press, change the dash to read from km to miles, checking the speeds of abs sensors to pinpoint the faulty one, etc... Little things like that. There is a "free" but restricted version called "Vag Lite". I have never heard of ForScan or Eml327 adaptor before, is ForScan Fords version of Vag VCDS? And i'm guessing its more like Vag Lite as it's free? But I looked at the link you gave me and for a "free" tool, it seems to do an awful lot. It says it can program keys, etc,,, my genuine VCDS can't even program keys. Is ForScan a genuine tool or a copy version of something? Where do I get the cable for ForScan to connect to the OBD connector or how does it work? Will it be ok to install ForScan and EML on the same computer as my VCDS Vagcom? Something I was wondering, Why is 2 keys needed to code a replacement Ecu to the IC? Does the IC look for 2 key codes or such? Are you saying I don't need to swap the lock barrel if I can swap the PATS chip from the new key that comes with new Ecu kit into my existing key? I'd like to avoid the PATS programming stuff altogether if possible, to keep things simpler for my beginnings at this stuff :) Could I get the immobiliser deleted / coded out the same way as the Egr's do be removed. I've seen some specialists advertising immobiliser removal service in their Egr ads, is this possible on this car? Would this mean I'd only need to get a matching Ecu and IC, and not have to worry about the keys and barrels side of things? Here's what I think is the easiest procedure based on what I've read and what I've gathered from your info: 1 - Buy 90hp Ecu kit that doesn't have Dpf, try get a kit with 2 keys, BCM, IC and ECU. 2 - Try read my injector codes off them physically and make note of them for future and if illegible get them via ForScan. Will my Mechanics genuine proper Delphi diagnostics be able to read these codes for me too? 3 - Swap over the new Ecu and IC. 4 - Code the injectors to the Ecu using the injector codes I made note of in step 2. 5 - Try swap the Pats chip from the new key into the existing key and see if it will start the car. If it doesn't, fit the new lock barrel and use the new key with its Pats chip reinserted. Maybe just swap the barrel if already have it to avoid me possibly damaging the keys. Hopefully can start car at end of this step. 6 - If have Egr errors / codes just get the Egr mapped off the car altogether. Can I do this myself via ForScan or will this be specialist only? Things that I'm not necessarily concerned about or am prepared to live with: 1 - The mileage being wrong on the dash. The service records and test records will show the real mileage so that's fine. 2 - Having to possibly use 2 keys, 1 to open door and 1 to start car. Is that a good summary of a plan to follow that will work for my car, please feel free to point out anything I'm overlooking or misunderstanding, etc..

Awesome van! Where did your plates come from? I'd be keen to get some, and that door lock cover is pretty slick looking, where is that from? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Done!

Solution found for me!!! Passenger side football. 2 x wire components one green one orange. The orange was out of socket a little. Finally been able blame Mrs for something All central locking working and boot catch

Ok so here it is, I hope you like as much as I do 🙂 So whats been done: • Full front bumper painted • Full rear bumper painted • Side mouldings painted • both wing mirrors painted with gloss black surrounds • Rear number plate light holders painted • Sliding door rail cap painted • Rear bumper protector fitted • Brand new front lower splitter fitted (different design to last one) • Driver door lock cover fitted • New raised gel and tinted number plates (front not fitted yet in photos) Take a look 🤗 Number plate light surrounds colour coded Sliding door rail end cap colour coded Gel and tinted number plates Gloss black wing mirror surrounds Gloss black wing mirror surrounds Rear bumper lip protector fitted, this is a must as the fresh paint will just get battered otherwise, it is a work horse after all Gloss black lower splitter fitted Driver door lock cover fitted I hope you all like what you see, I will get much better photos in a better spot ASAP. So what’s next?? I’m taking the front end down lower 🤭

Microsoft Windows.

Just to update; turns out it was the high pressure fuel sensor, car drives as was it new now. Still got a really small turbo leak somewhere though, and the GEM has a short to ground causing the doors to unlock/lock at random, so not done with it yet. Happy days though, still! Thanks for the help

hopefully got a free weekend next week and weather permitting I am going to have a go at changing the head lining and piller trims over to the black ones. so cross your fingers fro me please guys

managed to get 53 litres in so i wasnt quite empty, did you seriously expect me to keep driving on empty without a can in the boot!! lol i may be daft but not that daft. ha ha

From what I have seen peeps recommend over the years yes bosch has came up the most and is a common make with reliability. If you want 100% Oem just found this https://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_fiesta_ignition_coil_pack_from_2005_to_2008_f_1459278_c_443.htm

These gearboxes are good for 500NM . Superchips remap will take it to 470 NM . Certainly gives you a good shuff when you boot it .

I used to but for some reason the council told me to remove it.

i know we are going off topic, but one last post. bet you got one of these in your garden.

hammer?

What happens if you don't change the discs? Best not to follow my example! Before my Focus the wife and I ran a Mk 2 Mondeo daily. We had it from new and scrapped it at 250,000 miles. I kept changing the pads only, not even checking disc thickness until it failed the MOT on the front discs. It was braking fine but the condition of the disc surface attracted the attention of the tester. When I got home and removed the disc it was obvious what was wrong. The surface was wavey having been that thin that it sunk into the disc ventilating grooves. A new set of bits, some heavy braking to bed things in and it passed on retest. ScaniaPBman.

I'd stick a DTI on too and check how warped they are. Any more than 5-6 thou of run-out (0.15mm) then I'd replace the discs. Otherwise I wouldn't bother, but it's a very much debated subject on the internet. Also as above check them with a micrometer (don't use verniers as they hit the lip on the edge so don't give a true reading) and make sure they're not super rusty. I've seen people sand/file the edge of the discs before using them again to remove that lip, which can stop new pads from catching on there and causing uneven break wear.

i was thinking of doing both so both it is. cheers guys

Personally I always fit both together to my own car. Even if the disc looks fine from the front, it's usually not so good inside. If they are still decent though, no scoring, pitting, warping or a big lip around the edge you can just fit new pads to keep costs down.

Register on the forum Here your request needs to be accepted, that can take ‘up to’ 5 days, there are some handy guides and lists of changes you can make on the forum so have a nose about it. once you have done that go over to Here and request a license, which you receive instantly. The license only lasts for 2 months, you can apply for another one after that.

Does this help?

Being on the M5 between Bristol and Taunton, overtaking in lane three and having some total bellpiece flying up behind me in a vauxhall Insignia then getting arsey because I didn't instantly move out of his way. The fact that I was at the national limit and the other two lanes were full therefore having no place to pull in to let this complete tool go past plus his aggressive style of driving really peeved me. I also had my wife in the car and she gets twitchy at any speeds over the limits so I was doubly not impressed. Unfortunately I haven't got around to refitting my dashcam yet so no evidentiary video or details. As soon as I had even the slightest space to pull over, this div decided to undertake me in lane two, fly in front of me and proceed to weave and brake test me. The universal cupped hand signal was applied out of his window and much waving of hands was seen. He then shot into lane one and left at the next junction. If he was intending on going off at this junction in the first place why act like such a moron? If I myself were planning on leaving at this exit then I would have already been in lane one well before he decided to climb in my boot. Big satisfaction of all this was that I just happen to have the contact number for direct access to the Avon & Somerset control room on my phone (I do occasional official visits and support duties with them) and after passing his VRN to them and details of the event / offences I have received a courtesy call from their duty Inspector to inform me that they have found the driver and as he was reported by a fellow Officer (therefore the intelligence is considered as accurate and actionable) he has been issued with a NIP for dangerous driving and road rage, he couldn't be tagged for speeding as I have no calibrated ability to access his speed in comparison to mine (although I know 100% that he was exceeding the national limit by some considerable amount to appear from nowhere behind me so suddenly). I had a celebratory tab and a can of Red Bull at Taunton Deane services and the wife had a strong coffee to calm her nerves (she doesn't do this sort of thing daily unlike me). Karma is a female dog

Instead of crashing another topic with an unrelated problem, please start a new topic. Thank you.

Converting my rear drums to discs is still on my to do list but I can imagine my insurance company wouldn't be too keen. I may just paint the drums instead - a nice colour obviously increases their efficiency :)

Whether a car has drum brakes or disc brakes depends on the market (country) the car is built for. The country representative / importer specifies the configuration. In most European countries the Focus MK3 / MK3.5 has rear disc brakes as standard. However in some countries the lower HP versions or lower trim levels have rear drum brakes (probably to reduce costs). My German spec. 125 HP 1.0 ECOboost hatchback has rear discs.

As far I know only the 1.5 ecoboost and 1.6 ecoboosts and 2.0 TDCi came with rear discs sadly, I thought they ditched drums on the new Fiesta but I've only seen them with rear drums up to now, absolutely pathetic really in 2018 I've seen Yaris and Aygo's with discs -.-.

The cause of this problem will most likely be a defective Headlight Control Module (HCM). The HCM is only present on vehicles with original HID and adaptive lighting and controls the adaptive lighting and height adjustment of the lights. Your Ford dealer should easily be able to replicate this problem. Covering the light sensor to simulate night and driving the car should replicate the problem.