Leaderboard

Here's my contribution to the problem of splitting the wishbone ball joint taper on another thread. Once you have the technique it just falls off. First loosen the ball joint nut a few turns, then put a sturdy lever through the lower arm so that you can put a seperating force on the offending taper. A force equivalent to Mrs ScaniaPBman's weight on the end of the lever does the job nicely. Wallop the collar that the ball joint taper is held in, and bingo it releases. ScaniaPBman.

The throttle pedal is quite far down in the footwell so it literally brings it to the same height as the brake and clutch pedal so you can ‘heel toe’ easier and also get on brakes quicker by only having to swivel your foot not move it also so phone charger was Xmas present so I don’t know mate sorry I got them from parts box, speak to Laim Merrick he’ll sort you out £150 for a set tho New Recaro side decals also has stage 1+ maxd tune fitted today 380 bhp 540nm she’s quick now need to tune 0-60 soon

I know my place.

Every indie will have a diag machine that can perform ABS bleeds these days, even FORScan can do it... It's not often necessary though, I've never needed to do it so far, simple bleed is usually enough. If you've noticed a sudden drop in performance it's more likely that the brake vacuum hose has split somewhere or the pads/shoes have been overheated and glazed over. The rear brake shoe alignment does also have an effect on the fronts so they need to be adjusted correctly. You'll get a longer pedal travel if the shoes have to travel further than expected which can feel like the brakes aren't working as well as they should.

Biggest involvement is getting the ball joint out the knuckle lol

Lol Not really. It kinda looked nice but was cumbersome and slow/laggy to use, due to small icons, a poor touch response and low computing power. When driving it was pretty difficult/dangerous to use the screen for many features due to the above. Whilst the wallpaper feature has been dropped Sync 3 is light years ahead of Sync 2.

Ole in the ground?? You were lucky! Right stop it now... this is getting silly [emoji39] Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)

What do you mean 'us' middle class?!? When I were a lad, 29 of us lived in a shoe box. Well I say it were a shoe box, more of an 'ole in t'ground....

Honeycomb defo looks better than the slats and an ecoboost emblem maybe?

A leaking driveshaft seal would have absolutely no affect on the engine coolant temperature. You could potentially have a blocked radiator, thermostat not opening fully or for the fact the temperature was rising when you were sitting still possible a radiator fan that doesn't work.

big hammer? lol

I buy Bosch usually from Eurocarparts.

There were a few fiestas with eco button, my partner's 16plate titanium has it. It was used to reduce performance therefore supposed to improve fuel economy. Yeh right! Only seemed to be on certain model age range and not all. So basically you haven't got one and when you did have it ,it didn't make any noticeable difference.

Update Took the car to the garage and he checked the injectors, no issues thank god, and replaced the seals which solved the problem. He also mentioned that the issue with the code is due to the glow plugs and it's better to replace them all rather than one, so wait until they all fail.

Think yourself lucky the title was nearly "are you horny" but thought better of it. Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk

Varta for me to, get mine from batterymegastore online.

If they protrude from the surface of the wheel I imagine plod/mot etc will have something to say. Imagine coming in contact with someone, those spikes would do some damage!

Bought a ball joint splitter off eBay, never used it, just a big hammer!

So I haven’t really done much since, put the new sunstrip on, new rear sticker for a car group local to me, fitted rear indicators and reverse lights (no video yet, but they’re ***** bright!). also fitted the turbo hard pipe, which sadly snapped a jubilee clip and sent the car into limp mode, so fitted two clips just in case. Also broke down last Friday as my front passenger tyre burst, had two new front tyres and tracking done, as since lowering it there was 51% toe to the left of the car, car is now balanced aswell. will update in the next few months, hopefully gonna get to a few cars meets come July:

Just registered today. My first two cars were a Mk III Escort and a Sierra 1.8GL which was my pride and joy. Also owned an Escort Si but moved away from Ford for a few years, but now I'm back with a 2012 Focus Zetec which I'm really enjoying. It's Good to be back behind a Ford steering wheel again!

Yep, think I will change it every week now. Lol

When I saw that profile pic I knew it was you iantt

Wishbones are easy on the drive, literally 1 nut and 3 bolts!

Wishbones would be better replaced and in pairs the bushes can be pressed out and replaced but you would be lucky if a garage would want to do it. I wouldn't feel safe doing it on the drive but some peeps on here have managed it.

DG97 have a good look at some reviews on the F770 and the F800 pro as i did look at them and compare them to others as a lot of reviews put them side by side and i aint that keen on the night view even compared to my cheap wedge Viofo A119s or my olderA119 as there is a few they compare mine with and mine kills them. Dont forget £300+ against a £75 one,i was going to upgrade mine to the F800 pro this is why i looked into them a lot but the only plus is the WIFI side and stuff. Just saying shop about as a few on here has cheap ones and are amazing.

showing our ages now, remember when that was on tv.

All you can do with Sync3 is change colours and themes but that requires Forscan and an ELM interface. You can try out different themes temporarily by entering the diagnostic mode. Turn sync3 on in FM radio mode then press & hold the cd eject and fast forward keys (or back key, can't 100% recall) then the diagnostic mode should start. You can find the theme settings quite easily but they only last until the system is turned off unless altered with Forscan. You can add a permanent diagnostics link in the main tab menu if required by switching on the relevant slider in the test menu. Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)

No. Only Microsoft based Sync 2.

Yeah Jethro is spot on - Abs pump is a bugger - i once drained my Rover 820si and hadnt a clue why i couldnt sort the brakes bleed - turns out the pump on a Rover 800 needs a special mech-bleed that only a garage can do! Rover 820si - Handles like a whale on a skateboard and sucks fuel by the wagon-load but by god its the most comfortable car I have ever driven lol

Found a video of the new LED headlamps with the new indicators. fb.me/1OQR9YP2k I quite like the indicators. Still not sure about the square shape on the LED headlights. Would be great to see the it from a distance to give a better idea. I

Plasticote or plastidip is probably the best way to go, nice and easy and quick too.

Just a quick note to say thank you to @Bannko. I now have a fully activated Sat Nav on my Ford Sync 2 system and even got the navigation behind the steering wheel working today. I highly recommend him if you want to get your Sat Nav Working in your Ford. I didn't believe it was possible but it is! Thanks again Steve

That's what happens when you have too much money. Some celebrities start to go mad when they are rich which makes me wonder whether us middle class normal people are sane

@stef123 @zain611 @williamweb @isetta @DavyTee @Martin-Fiesta-MK6-1.4 just to let you know if you don't already as it mày interest you, Lidl have an electric torque wrench with 4 attachments Inc at £40... It a Parker not sure what others make of the brand but I've had a cordless drill of there's for just over a year n not had a problem yet so happy days n less head ache now 😂

Was of done at a Ford dealer? If not, you'll still have an ABS pump full of old fluid, which by now will have contaminated the rest.

Fuse out or disconnect battery for 30mins. That should do it

Just checked on towsure website and downloaded instructions 197e.pdf

This is going to sound rude no matter how I put it but it really isn't meant that way, please don't take offence. Why is it so important that you make sure people know it is a Titanium edition?

Without actually conducting a visual inspection of the entire system, you’ll never know.

When did they last have new fluid? When was the ABS pump last bled and the entire system refilled with fluid?

I think you could try balancing the rear drums and handbrake cable. I did notice the braking to be a little better after doing that on mine. Probably the shoes make contact now with normal pressure applied to the brake pedal. The handbrake cable also is properly applied after just 2 or 3 clicks. I did this a few months back and I think it's gone back to how it was before it got adjusted.

dont bleed the brakes again unless it feels like it needs it, pedal travel too long or spongy feel. otherwise it will be waste of time. when i took the rear drums off my old mk6.5 it had over 140k miles on and shoes were about half worn. I know these were originals as the car only had 1k on it when i bought it. I took the drums off as handbrake performance was poor. yes they have self adjusters but in my experience they stop self adjusting after a while. I adjusted them up a bit with a screwdriver and put drums back on and all was fine. On a mk6.5 (at least on my 1.6tdci, I assume all mk6.5 drums are same) you remove the drum and hub and stub axle as one unit by undoing the four big bolts on the back of the brake plate (remove ABS sensor first) . do not try messing about with the centre bearing nut. but in normal braking it's the front brakes that do most work so I am not sure how much difference you would feel from poor rear brakes. there is a chance the hydraulic cylinders are leaking and putting brake fluid on the brake shoes, this does occasionally happen as the hydraulic cylinders get old.

When was the fluid last changed? The fluid breaks down after a while and It can get moisture inside which will evaporate as the fluid gets hot, giving you spongier brakes as you're compressing the vapour rather than moving the pad. The drum brakes have an auto adjuster which are known for breaking/ gear teeth being stripped. If you're doing the drum brakes then yes I'd get new springs and adjuster as they're probably not in great condition with all that break dust and 10 years worth of grime as I doubt they've been done before.

Hi welome mate, P0201 is injector 1 malfunction, you would need to check the plugs on the injectors then find out your cars firing order to locate injector 1, but first you would need to check if that cylinder is misfiring FORScan may be able to do it Im still not 100% with FORScan yet as I just came from vauxhall, someone else may be able to tell you if FORScan can do that, if it is misfiring you would need to take the injector out find what it's resistance should be by looking at the manufactures spec and then check it with a multimeter and if it's poor compared to what it should be you would need to replace the injector. If your not confident with injectors I would put it into a specialist. Hope that helps mate. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Getting the wheels off first will be your biggest hurdle lol Mine were stuck tight but i found a good tip on youtube - if you put a large wooden door wedge under the tyre then drop the ramp it bends the wheel and pops it off! Discs and pads are probably the easiest job you can do and was probably one of the first I ever learned to do with my dad and probably the first any beginner should try. I got a new set of front pads on amazon for my Fiesta mk7 - £11.25 and fitted em myself - Halfrauds or Kwik-Ripoff will want £150. Copper grease. Car jack. Wheelbrace. Socket set. Hanger straps for holding the caliper out of the way. Bleeding kit (piece of rubber pipe and a 500ml Dr Pepper plastic bottle (my preference lol)) Bleed screw removal tool (or pair of mole grips). Caliper piston wind in tool (i use an old pair of woodworking clamps with plastic end pieces £1.99 on Amazon). Just use your hands to feel if there are any grooves in the disc and measure the width with a vernier caliper if you need to - once the wheel is off you will soon notice if the discs are nasty. Rotating them and watching for wobble will also tell you if they are heat warped! Most stuff you can do for free and with improvised tools as i used to do with my dad when we were skint (part of the reason we learned how to fix our own cars) but a good socket set is essential! There is a good vid of the whole thing on Youtube - Youtuibe is deffo your friend for all manner of repairs> Checkout CHRISFIX, ERICTHECARGUY OR SCOTTY KILMER they are my faves on Youtube!

Fitted a new drop link yesterday, took me 4 hours due to the nut being rusted on, and with no heat i had to make do with gator grips and a spanner, got the job done in the end though, garage quoted me 50 quid, i did it myself for the cost of the part (8 quid) £42 pound saved, a sense of accomplishment and a job well done

loving the update fella and look forward to seeing the new bulbs

Ok as promised, here is essentially what I call a 'basic' tool kit to suit most 'basic' jobs. There are several bits missing from my photos simply because I don't have everything out the car at the moment (I will list whats missing). I hope this gives an insight into what tools are used frequently. The toolbox is in for a clean out tonight and to make sure there is nothing missing. Some of the tools you will see here are beyond the needs of a basic diyer and as you might pick up there are a good few Mac/Snap on tools in there but there are also a good few Halfords professional too which are great value for money. I'm a big Milwaukee fan, their power tools haven't let me down yet. So missing from my pics are: Axle stands 36" Angled pry bar 3/8" 450mm breaker bar 1/2" 450mm breaker bar 3/8" impact sockets Brake bleeding bottle Test light Multimeter Spiral extractors Drill bit set Rethread tap and die set Fluted bolt extractors Brake cleaner pump sprayer Various sundries such as cable ties, general purpose grease, silicone grease, odd nuts and bolts So to pick out a few of the important tools in my box: Various screwdrivers and picks Various punches/chisels 1/4" torx bit sockets 1/4" Allen bit sockets 3/8" torx bit sockets 3/8" Allen bit sockets 3/8" Spline bit sockets 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" Female torx sockets 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" ratchet 1/4", 3/8" sockets - shallow and deep 1/4", 3/8" extension bars, universal joints and reducers/adaptors Combination spanner set 6-24mm Various pliers including extra long type and pump pliers Oil filter and fuel filter pliers Oil filter tool Stanley knife Magnetic pick up tool Brake caliper hooks Brake hose clamp Dead blow hammer Wire brush Anti freeze tester Copper grease/brush Flat file Thread file Feeler gauges Sump plug keys Allen key set Spark plugs tubes/sockets Mole grips Syringe Stretch belt tool Alloy wheel sockets Tread depth gauge The other kit you can see includes: Arcan trolley jack (From Costco) Milwaukee impact tools and battery ratchet 1/2" drive impact sockets - shallow and deep 1/2" 600mm breaker bar, 400mm ratchet and 600mm flex head ratchet MAP gas blowtorch Various pliers, long reach pliers, snips etc Plusgas spray Nitrile gloves So here is my 'basic' tool kit after a little clean out and all parts accounted for. This next set is an absolute life saver on rounded bolts/nuts. Anyone who has had to use this set will probably know all too well. Irwin make a set of these and there are cheaper alternatives on the market but I would seriously recommend these to anyone starting up a tool kit. Again, there are cheaper alternatives to this next set but I would also recommend a good set of pliers of various types.

you will find going and buying a Zetec S will be cheaper in get same colour you want, the insurance will be cheaper aswell.