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Having serviced my MK2 1.8 TDCi every year I can confirm that the cylinder type fuel filter is very sensitive on fitting to the rubber sealing ring not being perfectly in place. @Mark D3 When fitting the filter into the metal housing, there is also flat rubber seal that also needs to be fitted. Unfortunately the filter design allows the seal to slide around a bit until the housing lid is nice and tight. Even the tiniest gap in the seal will have the fuel system sucking in air. This can result in symptoms being as bad as not being able to start the engine at all, through to the engine intermittently stalling due to a build up of air in the system....the latter happened to be when the filter housing lid wasn't quite tight enough to form a perfect seal. There have been posts on here where even actual garages have not fitted the seal properly (pinched/damaged it when fitting etc). I reckon it's certainly worth checking.

This is my standard bit about Forscan: Forscan is a powerful Ford specific system, Cost is about £16.00 for the interface. It needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, Bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available). You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196 The Tunnelrat ELM327s have been reported to work well by several people, and are stated to be compatible with Forscan and ELMConfig. http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992 or https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/ Forscan works best on a Windows laptop, with a USB ELM. Forscan is also available for iOS & Android for some tablets & phones, using USB if available, or Bluetooth or WiFi ELMs. But there are some limitations. Wireless ELMs are often not as reliable as the wired ones. Also they are rarer in the "modified" form which is needed to access the 2nd Ford bus system. This 2nd bus is the MS-CAN bus, and links all the car interior electronics like door modules, and the BCM (aka GEM). But a standard ELM will still work with all the Underbonnet Modules (PCM, ABS etc) and with the IC (Instrument Cluster). The Forscan programme is free (in Windows format) and you can get it from: http://forscan.org/download.html ------------- These days you are right to be wary of dodgy software. The Forscan organistion has always been very straightforward and open. It is a voluntary collaboration, avoiding a lot of the commercial pressure that leads to bad software. Just make sure you get it direct from forscan.org, as above. I have never heard adverse reports about this software being malicious. Never install any software from a CD, unless you are certain the CD is from a very trustable source, and is certified as being the genuine thing. It is quite powerful, and has facilities to erase all keys, and to re-programme the ECU, for example. But these facilities would require a very deliberate attempt to use, and it always warns before doing a non-reversible operation, allowing you to exit. Just read the screen before clicking ok or continue! Loads of people on this site have used it, most not being techno geeks or computer wizards, without damaging their car, and often to great benefit.

Lol I remember asking for a quarter of something in the sweetshop. Couldn't get my head round what 100g looked like...!

The thing I miss most about the good ole days is just how little traffic there was then. Being able to drink a gallon of ale and still be able to walk straight and still have money left over. My motorbikes and how I could loone everywhere lol. There's more but they've already been stated above. What a damn good thread this is. A proper one that brings a smile and snigger. Good call Nik

Some of you won't get it, some of you will If you do know, don't say it

" they use transmitting devices known as 'relay boxes' to extend the signal from the car's keyless fob, which is usually inside the owner's home – and use this signal to unlock and start the car. " Just keep your keys in a metal box or one of the RF pouches you can get, no different to "fishing" the key through the letterbox or breaking in and taking it. “If criminals reach the OBD port (the diagnostic port within the vehicle used by dealer technicians to access the vehicle’s electrical system), any attempt to plug into the car’s diagnostics automatically initiates a 10-minute software lockdown, while the alarm continues to be emitted. “Further attempts to access the system during lockdown restarts the 10-minute wait period, eliminating the possibility of rapid illegitimate programming of keys for the car via the OBD. Owners of older Fords have the option of fitting the OBD port with a guard to prevent programming of keys.”

Just to add to Peters piece above, the chap that Peter and I have linked to DOES sell a Bluetooth switchable ELM327 device and it works flawlessly. The only problem with Bluetooth is that it introduces a small delay between what happens and what is recoreded. for the vast majority of cases this isn't a problem and is in fact a necessity if using android devices but if your trying to monitor very small spikes then it might miss them....thankfully that chap also has that covered as well with a switchable Bluetooth AND USB device :D for the record he has nothing to do with me but ive brought several of his devices over the years and absolutely none of them have let me down, which I cant say is true of the crap wifi, BT and USB ones I got from ebay. incidentally, I did speak to him once regarding a small question about BT, this was before he released his switchable BT model and found him very helpful

Been lying in my dads garage for years - thought I would bling up the Fiesta get it lookin "Gangsta" - Yo all ya homeboys whaddya think? Extra 10 horsepower do you think?

Sorry I meant on St for me. Yeah original BBC was all wireframe graphics iirc? But that is a claim to fame though! He fell out with Ian Bell didn't he?

This story is years old now. The media just recycle it for effect. All keyless cars are vulnerable to relay theft. Leave your keys in a tin when at home to stop them or if you don't like the feature get it turned off.

Gangsta's got ford badged 1's 😂

Nope the Original Elite was designed on a BBC Micro Model B 32K with developers expansion tools it was then ported to other machines, I used to know David Braben - very clever programmer his machine code maths was mind blowing! Does anyone else remember Outer Spacers - the space station round ones in yellow packet version (Mango Chutney flavour) - they were truly amazing i wish they would bring em back. As for sweets - some of them are back checkout this site:- https://www.aquarterof.co.uk/chewy-jelly-sweets.html They even have the old Golden Nuggets bubblegum - remember those?

This is pretty much what happened to me. After charging the battery outside the car and pulling all the fuses I could find it seemed to have sorted itself. It's likely one of the modules attached to a pulled fuse was causing the issue and needed a 'reset'...

Hi. My name is Rob and I have recently bought a 2014 Fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost. It's our first Ford for several years having previously owned a couple of Sierra's and before that a couple of Capri's. I am very impressed with the Fiesta up to now and I look forward to reading other Fiesta owners posts for their views and advice.

0.1ampis still high. Should be more like 0.02amp

Like this. Connections look right for yours (I assume you mean XTrons) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Direct-Fit-Rear-View-Reversing-RCA-Reverse-Camera-For-Ford-Focus-Mk2-2008-2010/172299903639?hash=item281ddfe297:g:DQ4AAOSwVJhZWL4E

You were dead right the other day, Gillyallan. I looked in the files I'd downloaded as you suggested and the version is 3.0 build 18025. I've still not put the stick into the car though. I've a nagging doubt and as far as I can tell there's not a lot wrong with the 2.2 I'm using now. Does anyone know if the dealership updates as we do, ie by running the engine or driving the car about for 30 minutes or so? Or have they got some kind of flash update? Chas

and if its a seal that will be easier said than done. but I wonder if the clue is in the empty filter. if its sucking that dry (or leaking from there) then the problem must be at the filter or the supply line. Might be worth looking in to changing the filter housing seals and the seal on the supply line

The hose from the intercooler is a boost hose so it’ll definitely need replacing or you will have poor performance. the vacuum type you can blank no problem just make sure you cap the vacuum pipe.

These don't have an in-tank pump. They just rely on suction from the HP pump. Trouble with this is any small hole will allow air in as the system isn't under pressure. The only way to find the hole will be to physically look for it unfortunately.

That pic is looking through the spokes of the wheel lol and just look through spokes on rear as well ...there isn't a roll bar at rear so just soak the donuts at the top of the springs Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

BBC Micro or CBM64?

Stoney. You’re a legend. That’s shown me something new and confirmed my thoughts. Thank you mate, really appreciate your help.

@DavyTee as to your very first remark of being sick of basically getting ripped off buy mechanics so is DIY best for as much as possible my answer definitely, l found that the guy who l obviously thought was decent friend of a friend did my CV boot because I couldn't budge the drive shaft nut, during my gearbox DIY l found the spring bit that goes into moving part of the break caliper magically disappeared not even in the hole bit, so l totally agree with you DIY unless it's a must..

Well just a quick update 3-4 hours wasted trying to separate the gearbox from the engine only to find l missed 1 bolt holding the starter motor because 1 of the matrix pipe's blocked it from view the ba#@ard but as soon as I took that out vwalar job was done, a good pointer l noticed that apart from supporting the gearbox as mentioned when I was finding out about how complicated it actually is ( supporting the engine too would be a good bit to add daft twats ) yep 1'c gearbox mount's are removed the the engine drops too ( luckily l had it all supported already good old tool box 😂 ) so it took me about an hour to get it lined back up and in place the replacement gearbox is now on and tomorrow will be refit everything else day and hopefully test it's all good, im considering keeping the old gearbox as not many left that match and doing a project strip n rebuild as it's the diff bearing that have gone on it n if it's related to my driving mmmm l may need it 😀

Hi there! I had similar damage on my car also from EH. Bought a 62 plate about 2 years ago- bumper, bonnet and roof all looked as if it hadn’t been sprayed properly- which they corrected and is now coming back again. Perhaps they’ve done a cheap job to get the car up to standard and just blown some paint over the car rather than doing a proper repair. As your friend suggested sounds like the proper preparation has not been undertaken. Perhaps some pictures could shed some light? I also paid for supagard treatment on the vehicle but after two times of them “applying” it I’m still not convinced- but that’s a different story Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, it 'seems' to have been sorted. The reason? Absolutely no idea! I pulled out all the fuses one by one, including the big ones then did it all again to double-check. There were some in the glove compartment such as the one for the central locking system that I couldn't access because they were placed behind the fuse panel for some reason. The amps didn't drop but still fluctuated around the 3.8 mark. Occasionally it randomly would drop to an acceptable level but then start again after a couple minutes. I'm not sure if that was simply down to my multimeter not making a good connection. In the end I put everything back and started the car but quickly realised the fans, AC and stereo etc. were no longer working. I thought I had blown a fuse or something more serious but after checking I realised I had put that fuse back in a redundant slot! After putting it back in the right slot, I started the engine and tested facilities again where all is well once more. I then wired up the battery up just to check for the draw again and hey presto it 'seems' to have corrected itself - I'm getting just a steady 0.5 amps! For the past 2 days, the battery hasn't become flat so I'm wondering if starting the engine without that fuse has possibly reset something? I really don't know and understand what has happened but if that's the end of it then I'll be a happy bunny. i guess I'll find out during the coming week. Thanks again for all your help.

1 - is it ok to install it on a computer that does be connected to the internet? The internet won't affect the licence or anything, it's all legit software yeah. -- No problem at all. Forscan is a relatively simple self-contained program, it has not affected either of my computers it is on, in any way. Load of people on this site have installed it, and I have never seen reports of problems, apart from, on a few occasions, the usual WIndows problem of finding and installed the right driver for the ELM adapter. 2 - Which of these 2 versions do you recommend I download and what is Wine? "2.3.13 beta for Windows Free" or "2.3.12 beta for Windows (Wine edition) free - without extended licencing to avoid Wine problems". Can the "Extended Licence" software be added to either of the above 2 downloads? -- You want the first version, the 2nd (Wine) is for Linux users. WINE = WINdows Emulator for Linux) 3 - Is it ok to install ForScan on a computer that already has a genuine copy of Vags VCDS diagnostic software on it? --- No problem, Forscan should not not affect this, or interact with it. 4 - What does "EML" stand for? -- Engine Management Light, also called Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). 5 - Overall plan to get ForScan running to check airbag system: -- You should not need the extended license for this. As far as I know, the extended license is only for PATS re-programming. I think it is the Forscan team protecting itself against claims of assisting in theft. Being able to re-programme PATS is useful for many legitimate owners, but may be even more useful for crooks! It looks like a sound plan to me.

Either the servo is faulty or sticking, or the needle physically needs resetting on the spindle. Has the fault recently developed?

The condenser is the radiator in front of the coolant radiator, it is the one you can see through the front grill. The pipes are partly made of aluminium and partly strong rubber. Easy to follow them either from the bulkhead or from the compressor. You still over complicated the aux belt btw...they can be done from on top without jacking up!

@dhr90 It's only the 2015/16 models with the DRL's in the headlights that are poorish, the other models are all good. If there is no headlamp adjuster then the car has xenon or LED headlights. Which are very good seats are good what ever the model. To get the spec as built use Ford Etis,you'll need to register must as your a independent mechanic it's free the ride on 17" is fine it's only when you get to the bigger sizes you really notice the difference.

Summer holidays without a drop of rain, as in 1976. Standpipes in the street. Thin Lizzy LPs. Snorkel parkas. Texan bars. Cathode ray TVs. BBC strikes that left us with only one TV channel for a month, ITV. Year old cars with rusty arches. Being allowed to smoke at your desk at work. Judges Rules. Listening to the police on a normal VHF radio. Man size chocolate bars, not the shrinking bars of today. Laughing at woos's with Grifters, because cool kids had Choppers. Road surfaces made from concrete. Motorways without speed limits. Taping music off the radio. Fiat Mirafiori's. Kawasaki Triples. Denim shirts. Pagan man aftershave. Medallions. Perms. Tight jeans. ELO on the radio. Casual sexism. Love Thy Neighbour on TV. A time without the evil mobile phone. Rover P6's. Bamk robbers with stockings over their heads. Young Burt Reynolds. The Liberal Party. Free school dinners. Free prescriptions. Drink driving being socially acceptable. Jason King. Skylab. The Cold War. James Hunt.

Thanks that very nice of you i still use all his tools and occasionally break them (can hear him moaning when it happens lol) but I kinda have it as a shrine everything still as the way he left it on the second floor i havent even been up there since he passed away! The Lotus is my mums old car she used to use it to drive 1 mile to the shops - the only woman of 70 years of age driving a Lotus playing Techno and dance music as she drove lol - the back seat has over 40 teddy bears on it and on the back shelf lol You should see the looks and comments from other car guys up at the car park lol The Manta S was his big project - strange the tyres on it have never gone down in 20 years of lying there but the Lotus tyres are all flat! He turned an old vacuum cleaner into a spray gun and unfortunately sprayed it when it was damp = if you look closely you can see his ahem dodgy paintwork! It was my fault (of course) for opening the garage door whilst he was spraying it lol

Very true the garage is bigger there are two other cars Rover 820SI and another Manta SR - The Rover is still sitting 5 foot up in the air on the gas lift my dad installed on the day he left it - he did everything himself - there is even a man cave up on the second floor of the garage - his secret workshop where he made his golf clubs and stored all his precious parts - I havent been up there since he passed away just cant face it im afraid! Its pretty crazy I have garages for four cars full of tools and I have to do all my Fiesta fiddling on the driveway - mad!

Yeah he had a Hillman Imp his first car then a Triumph Herald - crikey they are collectors items now. Ford Granada Rover 800 Citroen Opel Manta GTE (My fave car but one AC Cobra) Lotus Eclat Opel Manta S And loads more as he was a sales manager but yeah I miss his criticism and shouting at me when i broke one of his precious tools. I can hear him now "ive had that tool for 40 years and it took you just 1 minute to break it" lol Now they sit rusting away in the garage I havent the heart to sell em! Adn yes the garage is fully carpetted - even the inspection pit he dug has a carpet in it lol

I have mine at 20 secs but as I walk away I keep looking back til they go off. One day I'll trust it lol Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk

what happens if you add a sport badge or nurburgring sticker?

The switch unit with the stalks should not affect the airbag, though the wiring is in the same bundle, and goes to a connector on the clockspring unit, which is the plastic box thing closest to the wheel. Forscan should run fine on Windows 7. This is a standard bit I use as an intro to it: Forscan is a powerful Ford specific system, Cost is about £16.00 for the interface. It needs a computer of some sort. (USB, Bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available). You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=58645 The Tunnelrat ELM327s have been reported to work well by several people, and are stated to be compatible with Forscan and ELMConfig. http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992 or https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/ Forscan works best on a Windows laptop, with a USB ELM. Forscan is also available for iOS & Android for some tablets & phones, using USB if available, or Bluetooth or WiFi ELMs. But there are some limitations. Wireless ELMs are often not as reliable as the wired ones. Also they are rarer in the "modified" form which is needed to access the 2nd Ford bus system. This 2nd bus is the MS-CAN bus, and links all the car interior electronics like door modules, and the BCM (aka GEM). But a standard ELM will still work with all the Underbonnet Modules (PCM, ABS etc) and with the IC (Instrument Cluster). The Forscan programme is free (in Windows format) and you can get it from: http://forscan.org/download.html ------ As I said above, you will need the "modified ELM" to interrogate the restraints module. The Tunnelrat ones are this, also they are available on Ebay, and usually state they are compatible with Forscan & ELMConfig, which is another programme for th Mk2 Focus, that can turn on & off various optional features, etc. But Forscan is the one to use for diagnosis & maintenance. Forscan is very easy to use once you get used to its slightly quirky user interface. Also sometimes a driver is needed for the USB interface. Info on this is on the Tunnelrat site.

I suspect the Airbag module may need a reset or configuration after the ECU change. This will need a Ford specific diagnostic system like FORScan with a modified ELM327, as this module is on the MS-CAN bus, and most standard diagnostic systems only use the HS-CAN bus. It may appear as ARS, ARSM, or RCM or similar on the system. This system should give you the cause for the light on, it would identify which bag (eg Wheel or seat) is the problem, or if it a module problem. I am not sure what screws were removed from the wheel, the Airbag is just clipped to the wheel by 3 very substantial clips, and lifts off from the front. I have removed mine a couple of times recently, to add a heated wheel! (Reynaud's, that is my excuse). It was difficult the first time, but quite easy once you know how. But the airbag wiring does pass through the clockspring unit, possibly connections there were disturbed. I can give more info on Forscan and the ELM if wanted, and a step by step to remove the airbag. Haynes, I found, was not detailed enough about getting those clips free.

right so the problem is the battery is flat. so can you connect another battery to power up the electrics on the car? I do not know exactly where the starter motor is on this car. But this might work. Jack up front of car (and safely support it). can you get to the starter motor - particularly the connection on it where the thick cable comes from the positive terminal of battery. So if you connect a wire from the positive terminal from a spare battery to this thick positive cable on the starter motor and connect another wire from the negative terminal of spare battery to the earth on the car, which means any bare metal on the chassis or the engine/gearbox . you don't need thick cable as it is not going to use much power. this should power the electrics for central locking to work. better then paying locksmith etc. let us know if it helps/works

There were a few fiestas with eco button, my partner's 16plate titanium has it. It was used to reduce performance therefore supposed to improve fuel economy. Yeh right! Only seemed to be on certain model age range and not all. So basically you haven't got one and when you did have it ,it didn't make any noticeable difference.

@Mojaz787 as Tomsfocus mentioned going through the grill n replacement is the only option for that bit, but if you get another key that matches yours ( ready to cut but make sure the blade is the same shape ) you'll only need that cut then transfer the internals of your old key including the transponder n you'll have a perfectly new working key, l did this for our MK1 focus the other day 👍

Simple answer is no. If you have the key code in the handbook you can get a simple blade cut for less than a tenner without immobiliser or anything just to open the bonnet. A locksmith may be able to open it but not sure how much they'd charge but won't be cheap. You can break the front grill off, pull the key part out of the lock mechanism and then use a large flat head screwdriver to twist the bonnet catch open. Obviously you'll require a new grill afterwards.

What Tom said above. I get the feeling you were turning the ESC (Electronic Stability Control) off. Don't do that.

As a correction to my previous post- I believe that what is holding the lock unit in place is the clock spring unit for the airbag and control stalks so they need to come off to allow access, The bolts holding the mechanism in place are indeed security bolts which need drilling out and replacing. Do you really need to remove the whole steering lock mechanism? The transponder ring doesn't need swapping as all the immobiliser system needs is a matched ECU, Transponder chip and cluster. The original key blade will work ok, just swop the blade head to the replacement key body. Just in case you need to go more in-depth I have copied all relevant info from my PDF Haynes book into a PDF for you- Steering Column & Airbag Info PDF.pdf

The MK2 Focus auto is an old school "slush box" like the Americans have been using for decades, they seem pretty reliable unlike some of the newer dual clutch type boxes (from various manufacturers).

The outlets from the cylinder head to the heating system, and to the thermostat and radiator, are quite high up on the cylinder head. If the coolant level falls below this height, and air gets in (or steam if the engine is warm), then circulation will stop, and the heater will go cold, while the engine will overheat. As a totally irrelevant bit of nostalgia, I have memories of driving a Hillman Imp, notorious for cooling problems (among many others!), gloves and coat on in the freezing car, with steam coming out of the back from the boiling engine. Hopefully it is just a hose. It should not take too much ingenuity to rig up a way to pressurise the system, using a tyre pump or similar. One of the little vent hoses that return to the expansion tank (if it anything like a Focus), would be my first target. They are quite easy to couple other tubes or hoses up to. It sounds like a pretty major leak, it should be having visible consequences somewhere. If that much water was leaking into the engine, or through the heater, you would notice it. If it was the head gasket, there would be a lot of white smoke from the exhaust.

The coolant path at the back of the engine is from the back of the cylinder head, through the EGR cooler, through the cabin heater, through the oil cooler, then back across the bell housing (under the airbox) to the inlet pipe to the water pump. Water leaks into the oil cooler would cause severe emulsification of the oil, with grey gunge in the oil filler cap and crankcase breather hoses. Water leaks (unless tiny) through the heater would give a smell of antifreeze in the car, and sodden carpets. Bypassing the EGR cooler seems complete lunacy. I can not see a blanking plate in the EGR inlet port (normal place). If it is not blanked or mapped out, then hot exhaust gas is the last thing anyone would want in the EGR valve or in the engine intake system. Maybe the cooler had a leak. If so, I hope the valve was blanked (somewhere) or mapped out. I guess the car is loosing coolant. Detecting the leak is a process of elimination. Keep putting anti-freeze in, it is good for the engine, and helps identify leaks by smell and dried residue. Cardboard sheets in strategic locations are useful, I found a coolant tank leak that way. The water must be going somewhere, either leaking out as water, or as steam in the exhaust. I would put off going to a Ford dealer for as long as possible. They have set routines to follow, usually involving replacing lots of expensive bits. The quality of Ford franchised garages varies enormously.

Ok Darren here is my avaiable list of "HEC - FIRMWARE". I included a few screen shots to show the complete list (hope this is of some help) My avaiable List as follows: ROM 230 (AD) ROM 303 (AG) ROM 403 (AH) ROM 508 (AJ) ROM 509 (YA) ROM 509 (YA) TEMP by quickie (ffclub.ru) ROM 509 (YA) FULL by quickie (ffclub.ru) ROM 512 (AK) ROM 512 (AK) TEMP by quickie (ffclub.ru) ROM 512 (AK FULL by quickie (ffclub.ru) Just a few questions. 1) How do I know what firmware update will work with my car from the list? 2) Can I alsways go back to my original version? 3) when updating do I have to be connect to interenet or is the updates included in the elmconfig itself?( Laptop looses interent signal out side lol!) 4) Do I leave car ideling when using elmfig and waht setting do I use in the "BLOCK SIZE" BOX? Thanks

For those who haven't heard yet.. https://www.aol.co.uk/2018/03/27/theft-of-keyless-ford-fiestas-soar-as-crooks-use-electronic-devi/