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I've got exact car Ur lookin at getting. 2010 2.0 Titanium. Full ford service, 58k on clock now. I'm 2nd owner. Only thing I've changed due to it failing is the aux belt tensioner and belts as since tensioner was on way out itmade sence to do belts, the front lca''s r due a change as bushes are showing signs of wear but then it is 8 yr old this yr so can't complain. Mpg, well in town not gr8 mid 20s. On a run tho at motorway speeds I'm in mid 40s. Well specced car, Handles well, strong engine, lacks a bit of low down torque but once you get it above 2.5k it gets a move on. Put a new heavy duty battery on it which has helped alot in the cold weather since it's got heated front windscreen, seats etc which all drain the battery. Reg services and decent oil help since it's timing chain not a belt. Other than that just usual things to look out for.

So did people not like it that he said he denies the existence of hell? Might have got a Ford for the reliability and large range of extras you can get on it. He must of specificly wanted one touch windows

I finally found what I believe has been the cause of my driver's side wet carpets in my 2012 MC Mondeo. The problem is that the underbody heatshield material presses against the outside of the condensate drain exit - and with a bit of contaminant in the water causes it to block. I removed a bolt to loosen the material, stuck the handle of my socket set ratchet up inside and formed the heat shield material around it to create a void over the end of the condensate drain. (see photos) I won't go into Ford's pathetic attempts to solve this problem 2 years ago.

Log in as an Independent Operator (Assume this is what you registered as), select menu option = "VEHICLE", then "LOOK UP VEHICLE" and enter REG or VIN. This should show details of the car and if you select the "+" on the "Minor Features" window on the right, you should be shown the full factory build spec.

Yeah you can't prove justice with lights until you see them in person. With the mk6.5 fiesta the sidelights light up the top section of the headlights rather than like yours were it lights up the whole reflector housing.

To be honest I've only heard about the banjo bolt issue being a major problems on the DV6 1.6 TDCi. There are a couple off forum regulars with the same engine as yours, I'm sure they'll be along before too long to help out. @stef123 has a Mondeo ST, which I gather has the same engine.

They don’t outshine the dipped beam but do leave a bright blue tint to them. As sidelights they are extremely bright. As the year have 50 smd LEDs all around the bulb they emit light all around. I cant take decent enough photos with my phone in the dark and they look purple but thy are a very deep almost police blue. Id advise anyone to get the white led bulbs if they are considering these AutoBeam ones.

Hello there., I am Arthur from London and have just bought a used Ford Fusion. 2004. Bought it yesterday. Does anyone have any issues with a 2004 model Good or bad comments will be appreciated Email me Arthg51@gmail.com or text me 0776 565 5536 Many thanks Arthur

Yeah the interval is 8 years or 100k on them so it's over due now really. The water pump isn't run by the timing belt on this engine so can be changed separately if desired.

which means precisely diddly squat. if it looks right, it will pass. if its sporting blue lights and crap patterns then you can expect it to be spotted but then anyone with any sense uses 4300k HID bulbs which is what most normal OEM bulbs are. So it becomes one of those grey areas.

@Tomson from what I've seen of people's comments on other places not sure what size where used, but it was mentioned put a lot of stress on the bearings but l would imagine that would be down to the distance from the hub/CV joint as if you think of it like a stick the shorter it is the stronger it is, l use 5mm 1's on the rear of my essy but without much noticeble difference but at 20mm what l I'm thinking about it'll bring the wheels to the arch edge but with it only being 20mm l wouldn't imagine it would be that stressful on them as it wouldn't that much of a gap..

I used to get those annoying banners, for Ford keycodes. I installed an ad blocker on my iPhone and now it’s gone. @Rumblestrip As long as it doesn't start me on the redirected thing l don't mind as l can read everything so it doesn't bother me for now 😂

Hmmm I thort all mk2s had the duratec he 2.0 which is a chain, someone on here prob knows for def tho. Either way, main thing is rust on the arches, esp round bottom of rear doors is known to go. Water in wheel well of boot, sign of common leak on it. Easy fix tho.. n just general overall condition. History etc.

Thanks to pragmatix for the clue. It turns out that the pipe to the nozzles in only 2" long, separated from the main pipe by a non-return valve. That value was completely clogged, as consists of a spring loaded mechanism inside a hard plastic tube. I now have a screen wash on the driver's side. I hope this is of use to someone else in future.

my 100hp with bluefin has more than enough power for my needs.

This is true ^^ anything else will either break down or spontaneously combust. I suspect the pope going up in flames would be seen in a fairly negative light. :)

You need to replace the leds. However it's a dog matrix display so ... have fun. How do I know? I was part of the design team.

Here's a picture of the performance indicators and reverse lights fitted. The indicators are blindingly bright. I also fitted their LED rear sidelights / brake lights

Did you put a blue/purple filter on that pic by any chance, as there is a purplish hue in the foreground? Or did someone spill some purple paint on the pavement 😂

Mostly bushes to check around the control arms, rear upper arms, sway bar links end links. Test on rough surface for wheel wiggle and make sure the steering feels tight. Yes very reliable cars if serviced regularly they don't miss a beat and start always.

It went really fast on mine suddenly. Ordered the last week of december, 125PS ST-line with leather interior, and was said to be delivered by the end of march. Till February no production date was given, than it was said to be produced within 7 days and it was at my dealer 7 days later. Picked it up after 2.5 months, so not complaining here!

It only holds the brakes as you release them and move off. You can't move off if you are in neutral. I don't know if it would hold them if you are out of gear, there is no scenario you'd need both systems active.

I also had a coolant leak which I spotted about 2 weeks after having the recall work done. I had driven it less than 250 miles and mine was an inch below minimum too. I took mine back to where I had the recall work done and they found that a pipe connected to the thermostat had leaked. Initially tried to charge me £300 to replace the pipe! Told them the system should have been fully checked during re-work and it was to soon for a leak to occur and they finally agreed to fix it for free. 4 weeks later and touch-wood it appears to be okay now. Cornershop - i’d take yours back and make sure the recall was done properly and that your entire cooling system was assessed properly when they did the work as mine wasn’t. Its to soon to be leaking after the re-work IMO. Also despite the re-work being done on our cars, the pcm software update still isnt available as it has some issues. So the coolant level sensor is not yet activated on the car, which is why it didnt warn you. I have contacted Ford for an update on the pcm situation but they have yet to respond.

Just checked on towsure website and downloaded instructions 197e.pdf

When you set it to left traffic from right, it dips the drivers side headlight slightly and pushes the passengers side up and left a bit. Easiest thing is to park in front of a wall and fiddle, then it becomes more obvious.