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The light wasnt on befire the service i take it? but you where close to the mileage, bet it wasnt reset when they did the service, To reset it turn the ignition on without starting the engine hold down the brake and clutch together for 3 seconds light should extinguish.

Hi there. I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times, but I honestly couldn't find the answer. So I measured. Please see attached boot dimensions with the seats down. This is a 4 door mk2 2010 Focus, not sure how applicable these numbers are to other models. I tried to show the front to back, width at the bottom (if you're putting plywood sheets in), width at the narrowest part (if you're putting boxes in) and height. All of these should be the measurements which will allow the boot to close. If this is useful to just one single person in the rest of time, I'm glad I did it. And if not, I think I can get over the 4 minutes of my life I wasted.

I don't like my phone autocorrecting 'Motorhead' to 'Motorhome' there by asking a mate if I could wear a motorhome t-shirt to his wedding tomorrow! 😁

Yh it’s amazing I’ve only cleaned a little bit with a hose and it just runs off, and it doesn’t water spot another wicked plus of having it, the water spots wipe off with a cloth new cleaning products for the ceramic coat came today New steering wheel fitted today

That explains it then lol

Maybe the OP has three feet and hit them all at once!

They all are brake and accelerator , unless it's the very latest vehicles then some are reset in the instrument cluster.

Well done mate. It's the brake and accelerator on my mk3 focus! Don't know why they're different, just to confuse us lol

Hi! My names Alannah, I’ve been on here a while but i’m More active on the Facebook group. I’ve currently got a lovely (if I do say so myself) Mk3 Focus ST (tangerine scream 🤤) I’ve previously owned two fiestas (mk6 style & mk7 Zetec s) which I loved to death. Fun little things! I’m generally interested in art related things, I work as a printer/graphic designer and have a photography background. As for here, I’m just interested in hints and tips and looking after my car the best I can. If you’ve read this, thank you! 🙂

done nd sorted ta

It's definitely a battery issue. If it's on its original battery it might be in need of replacement. Or it might have a standard battery and not EFB which would also result in the S/S system not working. If there was something wrong with the system, the S/S light on the dashboard would illuminate in orange/amber. As a first step you can try resetting the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) using this procedure: 1. Switch on ignition (press the Start button without pressing the clutch) 2. Press the rear fog lights button 5 times 3. Press the hazards button 3 times 4. Wait 5-10sec and the battery symbol in the dashboard will flash 3 times. That's it. P.S. There is a recall for the 1.6 EcoBoost. Make sure it has been performed on your car as it concerns the engine cooling system.

You are correct, this car will have a catalytic converter, my mk 3 was a 2007 they did have a DPF.

Hello all, I have owned a Sierra Sapphire since 1995 and have decided to retire it from regular use and plan to garage with the intention of some restoration. I would love to keep using it but parts are getting scarce and it is also getting tired.....especially the paintwork. Due to a limited budget I am finding it extremely difficult to know what Ford to replace it with, ideally another saloon. I have a very tall order but its worth asking the question. I am trying to source a very good example, low mileage, 4 door saloon (not 5dr) MK3 Mondeo ST220 05/55 to avoid the massive increase in road tax from March 2006, but benefits from the chrome facelift rear lights and foot handles. The reason for such specific preferences is that I will keep it for many many years. I appreciate that it will be a tough task however I will persist as its the only car that really floats my boat. Before being sold to the current garage offering it for sale, I was offered the grey 5dr 24k miles on Ebay but it is 5dr and pre facelift so to me lacks a lot of visual appeal, however it goes to prove there are ones out there. I would be most grateful if anyone hears of a car that closely matches my requirements that could be for sale to let me know. Many thanks in advance for taking the time to read this.

if you are new to Ford you might not know of ford etis https://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=Eyg_q6Gdx6r-X_yjEJ70bsmumoLI-38kh5yp_cSG.fcvas1901j if you don't register it gives only very basic car info. If you register (free) it gives very very detailed info on every bit of the car spec, where made etc

No it's not worth replacing the wings. if you were really concerned about it I would clean it up well and paint with a couple of coats of hammerite to stop it getting worse. it's not worth trying to do purple down there, who's going to notice. It's probably rusting there because of the crud collected there which holds the damp. This is the kind of area I clean out regularly on my mk7.5 and also did so on my previous mk6.5. The cost of replacing the wings and having them sprayed well to perfectly match the car would be silly compared to car value. Also if you used cheap non-ford parts you might find them corroding more in a few years time than the originals

There'll be as many opinions on this as there are replies. I painted the drums on our MK2.5 with black engine lacquer on the basis it would be fairly heat-resistant and so far it's survived well over several years. I personally think black looks better on drums than red or yellow, it's not as though they're calipers.

Thanks Jethro. Ordered them just now.

Are they Velcro dividers that hold your sub in place? If so where from? :)

There is no evidence that DRLs are linked to a reduction in accident stats outside of a sub-arctic climate, so unless you live in North Norway they're a waste of time. You can thank the EU for making it mandatory without evidence that it's is appropriate in England or Southern Spain as it is in Norway. After all, the EU tried to make leg protectors mandatory on motorbikes, despite a weight of evidence that demonstrated they would simply tear riders in half at the hip... There's is a small amount of evidence that all but the dimmest daytime lights may actually contribute to certain types of collision. A person judges the speed of an oncoming objects approach by the rate at which it's outline increases against the background. Suzuki did a study of collisions involving bikes, and discovered that under certain conditions DRLs can break up the outline of an oncoming vehicle and thus deprive the observers brain of the datum required to make an accurate speed calculation, thus making collisions more likely. It's easy to spot which manufacturers run theirs inappropriately bright - the ones that are so bright they have do be dimmed to allow indicators to be seen.

The rim diameter doesn't really matter. As long as the rolling radius is more or less the same it'll be fine. You'll notice the smaller rim has a larger tyre sidewall to keep the rolling radius correct. However the tyre tech is sort of right, it is only for emergency use to get you to a garage though, you're not really meant to use it 'in the meantime' as it will affect handling and braking. And if you exceed the 50mph max limit it has the potential to overheat the tyre and cause a blowout.

Well, I got my 64 Plate Ford Focus from a main dealer in Feb this year - 23k on the clock and did not seem in too bad condition but I have had many issues which have now been rectified - some without question and some involving meetings with managers etc In these 5 months of ownership I have had to have the following repaired/replaced... Bonnet - Re-Sprayed due to Paint beginning to "craze" Air-conditioning - Re-Gassed after A/C became non-existent Door Check Strap - Door Making Strange creaking noise when door opened - they recommended this and replaced it but it still happens... Rear Parking Sensors - Argument over this - put the car into reverse - noise would not stop - a few arguments but long story short they replaced them with Ford X-Vision ones Front Bumper - Lacquer Coat started peeling off in sheets - Argument over this one of course, meeting with the garage manager - once he saw the extent of the damage, bumper re-sprayed! Air Conditioning Again - Air Con became non-existent again - taken in and mentioned I had reported it when I first got the car - found to be a knackard A/C Condenser - replaced Before I picked it up it had a new Dashboard Bezel fitted too as some weird crazing/cracking had occurred just in front of the screen. Also, nothing to do with the dealer but I had an Alloy Re-Sprayed, looked amazing, took it to Kwik Fit to get a new Tyre put on it and they Destroyed It! Ended up having to have it re-sprayed again with Kwik Fit footing the bill... So after 5 months of persistence and going back and forward I finally now seem *touch wood* to have the car I wanted originally! 😊 Victory!!

no all windows need to be electric for it to work

Unfortunately the auto only comes with 100ps afaik. Mountune are now doing their (warranty friendly) 140ps upgrade for the 125 but not seen anything for the 100 as yet.

I've made the same mistake 2-3 times on here so you're not alone!

What are you talking about?! I still owe about £6k on mine lol! If they didn't want me to mod it they shouldn't have given me the keys...

When this message came up in my Focus diesel I just replaced the fuel filter and everything was fine, after the map your car will need more fuel at times and if your filter is a bit meh it would explain a lot, replace the fuel filter easy to DIY about £50 for a garage to do it for you but it's worth doing. EDIT: Even if it's not the fuel filter it's worth doing 🙂

Very likely the turbo has failed again. These DV6 engines are known for carbon blockages which kill turbo after turbo if not rectified correctly. When the turbo is changed, the oil pump and oil feed pipe must be replaced, along with the sump being removed and cleaned, and the whole oil system flushed. Even then it's possible some carbon has been left behind.

Aren't they meant to do over 60mpg on a long run out? My 1.4 TDCi is currently doing above official MPG figures.

Ah I see, a dog guard would probably be cheaper and safer if you often load the boot up that much. I can't see a net being much use if you have to slam on the brakes at 70 and your tool box comes flying forward.

hahaha , put your finger inside hole to hold this holder and then pull out first time its hard then will be more easy.

Ive been following this thread with great interest, facinating and educational, thanks guys.

It's only the lower bolt with a filter as far as I'm aware, they changed the design of it for the later Mk2s but I don't think they removed it altogether. You would need to remove the DPF for access to the lower bolt as it's behind the DPF can and to the left of the oil cooler.

I do like a random act of pure kindness and charity I experienced tonight. At my local Tescos topping up with petrol and a guy at an adjacent pump filling a Honda Jazz asks me if I'm running on ths standard Goldyear F1 tyres. On confirming that I am He then offers me a spare tyre for nothing. The guy had recently chopped from an ST to a 17 plate RS and had the tyre loafing in his garage since. Admittedly I at first invisaged waking up in a bath of ice minus a kidney but he appeared 100% gen so went along with it. He lived literally just around the corner from the store and on following him there find he indeed has a cracking RS on the drive. The tyre has had a professional mid tread puncture repair but has zero visible wear so seeing that new F1 tyres are £114 from the likes of Blackcircles.com it was a no brainer. A sincere thanks goes to a decent honest guy, a rare commodity nowadays. Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)

Couple of small upgrades done Fitted plastic inner to the bonnet vents to stop water ingress left a gap at the front so it can run away and gloss black rear wiper and rear badge fitted. Still need a front one which is on order for Ford fair

Thanks guys, it's all 4 I want, ordered same set as ferrit Happy days 🙂

I agree with Isetta. This won't be an alternator problem. To be honest if cost isn't an issue your best bet would be be to fit a second battery dedicated to the audio system and install a split-charge system. That will prevent dips in voltage on the second battery from being seen on the car's systems. I'm just glad you're in Ireland - I wouldn't want you driving past my house every day with that kit!

I have this very same problem on an ecoboost I bought from a ford dealer 24 hours ago. Sometimes the turbo works, the rest of the time and after driving for a few minutes the turbo vanished and I struggle to get over 60mph. Im trying to return the car for a full refund but the dealer is refusing - despite the law being on my side. They want to fix the car and make me keep it but as it’s only sold to me 24 hours ago I’m not confident in it or them any longer. I mentioned that I was a member of this forum and the dealer scoffed and said they don’t know what they’re talking about. But this was the same dealer who claims he didn’t know the ecoboost had known issues and was also completely unsure as to why the turbo wasn’t working. Considering you guys on here have helped me numerous times I know who I trust about fords.

Without telepathy or a bit more explanation, probably not! I'll do my best to help, but I'm by no means an expert What is it you're trying to do?

Stop start was all good. Everything was. It went through a hundred and something check before they gave it me. I had to wait 24 hours while they got it all ready for me. The problem is now I don’t have a lot of faith in it. If it has issues now while under a three month warranty, what happens on month four or five? I asked for a full refund but they refused. However I get free legal advice through work. Irwin Mitchells have advised that they have no choice and must refund me if I ask. I’ll raise it tomorrow with their second level complaints team. If the turbo is having problems now it worries me about the engine for the life of the car.

Nothing really to idea about; bought faulty, they need to correct it. Don't worry 🙂

I eventually managed to find an air conditioning specialist in Sheffield, Neil Grayson. He was sceptical if it was the filler valve, he said they didn't tend to fail on Fords, the condenser was usually the issue. He was right as it happens, he did the leak test and then put a new condenser in for £215 + VAT(£258), with a 12 month warranty. It just shows you, go to a specialist. Incidentally he said an air con system which needs refilling every two years has got a leak, they shouldn`t need that if working OK. Indeed a lad from work had a Fiesta which was 12 years old and had never had anything done to the aircon, yet it still worked OK. He also said he hardly ever used it, which is the opposite of the normal advice that unused aircon systems are more likely to fail !

I've just brought these ones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-mk2-Hatchback-Saloon-4-5-Doors-2004-2010-Wind-Deflectors-Heko-Tinted/151674700830?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 They should have been here today but hermes sucks, hopefully they can be bothered to delivered tomorrow.

I prefer Heko as they don't seem to cause window bounce back which I have experienced with Climair ones. Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)

Both the engine and the DPF system in the Mk3 are much better than in the Mk2/2a. So when reading about problems with the 1.6TDCI, check it relates to the DV6C used in the Mk3, not the DV6. It is almost a completely re-designed engine. I have not seen many threads about problems with the DV6C engine, DPF or EGR systems. If you need it, a wiring diagram for the Mk3 Focus is available on this site. Forscan is a very useful tool for any Ford owner to have. I have written about it many times, see some of my recent posts if interested. DMFs can last a long time. I recommend avoiding wide throttle openings below about 1600rpm though. A diesel will chuck out a lot of torque at low rpm, but the fluctuations put more strain on the DMF. Changing down a gear will reduce the strain a lot. Schematic: https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=42086

Cold engines use more fuel and produce more emmisions. Switching on the AC at start up really isn't ideal for the environment. It also needs to be run for several minutes for the gas and lube oil to circulate, 10 seconds would probably do more harm than good. But that's only part of the issue. The movement of the car and engine is the main issue...your fridge isn't vibrating constantly or bashed over potholes every day. And it's not pelted by 70mph stones.

As someone who has been involved with refrigeration on a more industrial scale, I can say that a fridge runs 24/7 (not the compressor obviously) in usually a good environment. A car AC is used a few times in the summer and left to sit (so the seals on the compressor dry up (which is where they usually fail). Not leaving them out in harsh conditions for the pipes to potentially corrode is another thing fridges have over cars. I'm not sure about domestic fridges, but ours have all the hard-line copper pipes are lagged to reduce condensation and we don't use flexible pipes with those crimped connections either. Also far less vibrations than on a car, which causes one or two leaks I bet.

Regardless of the make aircon repairs aren't cheap, in my limited experience of aircon repairs, those price aren't to bad, but I would get a second opinion .

Hi guys, had new drivers side drive shaft fitted today, PROBLEM SOLVED, thank for all your help.

As there is always noise when in gear sounds like the pilot bearing or tranny shaft: " the release bearing disengages the clutch. The release bearing is designed to operate with minimum friction between the rotating and stationary points of contact. If noise develops from the bell housing area, a few checks can be done. Start with a road test of the vehicle. Listen for noise with the transmission in gear and the clutch pedal to the floor. Next release the clutch with the transmission in first gear. Noise under this condition indicates a worn release bearing or a worn pilot bearing. To isolate the two, keep the clutch pedal on the floor and shift the transmission into neutral. If the noise persists, the release bearing is bad. If the noise is gone, the pilot bearing is bad.A bearing noise that occurs when releasing the clutch pedal to engage the clutch while in neutral, but goes away when the pedal is depressed is caused by a bad transmission input shaft bearing."

as stated, sponge is just to soak up the odd oil droplets in the vapour...not critical but useful... not all aftermarket air filters come with sponges, but fords will. Lenny, you'd be amazed at sort of things i find in air boxes over the years. bunch of keys, mice nests, squirrel nut hoards, various tools left by previous garages and so on...but the best one, a wallet containing 300 in cash which wasnt the car owners...i managed to track the owner from other bits and pieces in wallet which turned out was lost 9 months previously...if i wasnt honest, could have been a very profitable quick engine service ever :)