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Just to point out, I’ve bought another eco boost. A 2015 facelift model. There are still chances of the issue with them but less than the pre facelift model. I’ve had no issues so far and I like the engine so much I bought it again. They’re not all doomed. I do regular checks under the bonnet and always check my coolant level. Not saying it will 100% stop it but considering how many they sold to how many have died it still seems a smaller number than the group would like you to think.

The voltage is dropping, as all the dash lights go out when trying to start. From the age of the battery, dead battery is most likely. Try the headlight test (see how long before they go dim, ign on, engine off.) Other possibilities are: Something has drained all the charge from the battery. You could try charging it, but if it has been discharged for more than a few hours, then at 4-5 years old, that is likely to have killed the battery anyway. Bad connection, power or earth. A voltmeter test on the battery terminals with headlights on would check this. But it is 80% likely that a new battery will cure it.

Hi Everyone. Got me a Focus zetec 1.0 ecoboost. Nice vehicle in general. Remarkable when you consider the 'A4 piece of paper' engine size how much power it produces!

I want to get some bits from Paintmodz on the day, want my front lower grille and fogs gloss black, looks like I'll be taking my tools with me 😎

Hoping the map will be posted on their site before the day. T means tunnel though doesn't it?

Thanks for confirming guys!! Decision was made to purchase a new battery, no longer want to take chances with an 8 year old battery, as I dont want to risk being stranded again.

Tickets arrived today we are on stand T10 but no idea where that is as no map or anything included. Looking forward to the camping again and our ritual trip to Towester for a curry and a Cobra or 6! Hope to have a couple of additional small mods to be fitted by Paintmodz on the day.

Sports cat with a stainless cat back would be ideal and probably cheaper than a new genuine cat. Are you sure it's the cat removed though, not just the mid box? Removing the cat brings the EML on so it would have to be remapped as well...

Where's the leak?

I have not done much trouble shooting on cars in recent years (mainly as they don't seem to go wrong as much these days). Years ago if a car started fine but cutout when you tried to pull away, the first thing to investigate was fuel starvation and in my experience this was often cause by a blocked fuel filter which would allow enough fuel through to tick over but not enough for the higher fuel demand of pulling away from being stationary. I realise with all the modern electronic stuff it might be a bit more complicated. As TDCI-Peter says there is likely to be a fault code which can be read with a OBD port code reader. They cost less then a garage generally charges to read the code for you. Pretty much a must for fixing cars these days and everyone who can pickup a spanner should have one. It might have a code waiting to be read which says low fuel pressure or something else. example: https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/ i have the modified USB one and use free software on my laptop to read the codes. Modified means it has a little switch fitted to enable it to read extra stuff on Fords

125k or 10years whichever is the sooner.same as the timing belt.

The timing chain doesnt need changing, just the aux belt, no need to domthe other things unless you have a problem

57 plate ones got a later GEM and I guess lots of other stuff

My new whip 😀 Berg Duo Chopper BF Bought for my kids Saoirse, Kara and Tadhg reason why the fake registration plate says SKT And even I can fit on it myself I'm 6ft 1" seat is adjustable lol Great fun Smiles per gallon purchased from https://www.douglasforestandgarden.ie/product/berg-duo-chopper-bf/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-Jjwgeaj3AIVC_lRCh0tGgA4EAQYASABEgKRKfD_BwE came three box's on a pallet from berg in the Netherlands I be driving around like:

Looks mint 👍

I just had to replace my shock on mine was causing that issue. the garage could only find the noise if the car was on the floor and you grabbed the wheel in the 12 position and pulled and pushed the tyre (in to engine and out to kerb) so ive just replaced both the front and they were both well and truly knackered.

You did well. Many are reporting Ford either not paying or only paying up to 50% now.

That sounds like a ball joint to me, try a pry bar between the hub and wishbone and see if you can get any play in the bottom BJ. Next would be the shock - while it might bounce fine and not leak, if it can't rebound quickly enough over rough surfaces that's the sort of noise you get. Finally would check the CV joints/diff. They are 'slack' while not accelerating or braking. I've got a dodgy CV joint on the A3 that I've felt for weeks, and does knock a bit, but it's just this week started clicking on corners so I can finally prove it's that CV lol. It is also worth checking plastic parts, it's surprising how much noise a loose headlight can make after bulb changes.

Parking sensors can be painted without any problems. However be aware that it is very important to apply only a few thin layers of colored paint and clearcoat. It is also important to use the correct waterbased paint. Too much paint or using incorrect paint will affect the functionality of the parking sensors.

I agree with Tom, definitely worth trying a charge before you condemn it.

Only thing to consider is that it's a timing chain and not timing belt. Lol .no change interval. So only belt to change is aux belt.

Dead battery...but I would disagree with Peter in this case, it probably will charge ok. While my Focus was left standing for sale the battery died twice, giving the same symptoms as yours. Both times a charge revived it and it's still fine now, battery is 8 years old.

@Turvey I was thinking of that exact same statement. Looks like too much summer weather isn't good. Only good thing is you don't always see idiot drivers about. It's a pain to see a new / expensive car being driven by a careless person who has no consideration or respect for other road users. I've noticed myself I get angry seeing things like this that before I never cared which I wish I still was.

I was going to ask if it’s the ecoboost. If so, the overheating may have destroyed your engine. These engines are great except for one issue. If there’s a coolant problem the engine will die in a very, very short amount of time. There’s the ‘ecoboom’ community of Facebook with plenty of horror stories. I believe the pre 2015 ecoboost Focus was a more likely car to suffer from this problem. If it is an ecoboost you’ll need a garage to check your engine over. Plenty of examples where they warp the cylinder or damage the head gasket. In many cases it requires a whole new engine which can often cost more than the car is worth. Hopefully it won’t be this.

There will be an error code stored that may give some clue as to the cause. Code readers are cheap, easy to use and safe. Anyone with an out of warranty electronic car needs one! I have a very basic U480 self contained reader for simple engine codes, and Forscan (on a WIndows laptop with an ELM 327 adapter) for deeper diagnosis and monitoring.

Guess it’s the starter motor then 😂😂😂

I was about to say a couple of weeks isn't that bad a NecroPost, before I saw the gap between 2013 and this year!

Yeah but with an ELM and this forum it's fairly easy to sort out!

Ok, so that might answer the question I posed to Peter. If yours is a UK spec car it could possibly have a different AC system from one intended for an overseas market. That's just a guess, maybe someone else could offer some insight on this. You might consider editing your profile location to Non-UK.

not an expert... rectangular radio 2006 and earlier mid 2007 oval radio and an updated electrical system 2008 indicator repeaters in the door mirrors and ugly bumpers

Love this build 😍, Was the charger direct from oc-motorsport?

Managed to get a picture in the car park.

ha ha im sure you will work on that bit soon