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However, there doesn't seem to be much consideration about the rest of it... My first car was W624 KNA It was my mother who noticed that if you moved the W and read it backwards it spel...I'm sure you can work it out lol

Wear the fox hat! 😁

Sooooo a few things happened this weekend I part exchanged my Rays alloys for the standard forged alloys and some cash, I then went out and bought these rocking horse ***** Team Dynamics Pro Forged 1.4 alloys, custom made for the mk2 RS back in 2010 and there was around 35 sets made and I’ve never seen any in the flesh ever and I could only find 3 photos online about then and 2 of them where in the USA so 35 sets world wide and only one known other set in the UK, the Benifits, 8.4kg a wheel, forged aluminium ultra strong and light weight made specifilly for track and racing use 19x8.5J et45 so sit 7mm further in compared to the Rays did I still have to put them on but here’s some photos they currently have semi slick michilen cup 2 tyres fitted so will need changing soon when the frost comes main reason for sale swop buying of new is Rays have released they will now put my previous wheels into production so they are no longer ‘rare’ I bought them knowing only 2 sets would be made now they are going to make hundreds more value decrease and so does demand so I jumped ship to something that’s not been seen for at least a few years, when new these TD’s where £4K with tyres and you could only buy them when you spec’d your mk2 RS from new from ford so pretty special I think 🙂 more photos to follow

If the fan stays dead with Aircon on, then you need to start looking at power going to fan engine running Aircon on. Have you a multimeter? If not, you will need to let a garage have a look.

another bit of info from today. So we drove about 400 miles today, approx. every hundred miles or so it dropped in to limp mode, I actually tried to reset the codes again on the move and it worked for about 10 min when it bombed out with not only the traction control light illuminated but also the engine fault light. reading the codes showed the turbo actuator as moving from pending which is where it normally was after a limp mode to EML light displayed. there was also a loud ticking sound coming from the BCM, it sounded like rain drops but was clearly one or more relays tapping away, it would come and go for no apparent reason we could work out. might be entirely unrelated but who knows. just about ready to give up on this unless anyone has any ideas to try?

Was the new belt marked as a stretch type belt? I used a Gates branded stretch belt on my Focus 1.8 Petrol and it worked fine.

New to cars, well not new i've had them years, new to caring about my car as i just purchased a nice one for the first time. Probably not too nice for most but its spanking to me

Take a look here:- https://community.talktalk.co.uk/ You do not have to sign up or log in Scroll down a little way and click on that icon with the head and shoulders of people in it with Community written under it. Scroll down a little way again and click on Help with your TalkTalk service, this will bring up a page of different sections, just click on each one in turn and read through the different problem posts that customers are having before you decide to go with them. I was with them for years until I got fed up with some of the problems that were affecting my service so have now been with Plusnet for about 3 years, a great service all round.

I had my 57 plate 1.8 Zetec Climate for just over 8 years from new and it never made a noise like has been mentioned here.

My engine is 125bhp with 8 speed auto and yes the power is surprisingly good in my opinion- just sounds a little different than a 4 cylinder. Ride quality is not bad, fairly stiff I think because of the low profile tyres, no rattles so far. I enjoy driving it. I suspect if you have paid for a specific package that has Parking Assist 2 then you will get it. I should have got it as part of the overall Vignale spec but the spec had changed before ordering, but was still in the brochure details (and still is!), the dealer didn't know until I asked him why it didn't work- I'm still in dispute... best check it out with your dealer.

Hi all, as a new owner of a 2011 titanium x with sat nav how do i update the sd card ? Any help would be appreciated Thanks

i have a 98 Astra as well as a 2006 focus, had the Astra 9 yrs ,dont want to let it go ,so what ever it needs at mot/nct it will get it, but in Ireland the insurance industrie is killing the market to keep old cars ,some will not quote cars over 10years old , most wont quote over 15 yrs old ,if you do manage to get a quote it will be a ridiculous amount, alot of good old cars being scrapped with nct/mot because of it, is this happening in Uk yet?

If you find it's a pain to deal with then you have a 14 day cooling off period by law. It's different than a trial because you still have to pay for those 14 days, but you're not tied into the 12 month contract.

The Mk6 didn't have ESP as standard, he lost it as soon as he over corrected the first time. It was all over the Facebook pages at the time but no-one owned up to it lol.

What did he think would happen with such a tight turn!? It looks like the Astra got away with any damage though luckily. What's on the screen in the first clip btw? With the wires to it?

Don't drive an ST like this. Do like that white one near the end.

This is a little old but I uploaded a dash cam clip of my dad seeing a bus turn into a car. Funny thing is this video made more views compared to the videos uploaded around that time. Its also in the thumbnail. It's at around the 4min mark.

I once saw a newer audi A6 which the number plate looked to of said the N word. Hes just asking to get in trouble.

I do a unhealthy amount of downloading for my xbox and media, I download for my dad at work due to having no internet and for my self to take upstairs to bed with me after work so I need things fast and with Sky that wasn't. I download anywhere from 20gb to 50gb every day of the week apart from Sat and Sun (My day off today haha) Yes I stream Netflix a lot too, Sky was fine in that matter no issues at all even on the 14mb I was getting, and being honest Sky had a more reliable wifi signal

Could look at changing the lights to LED but again might need to ask the insurance.

I have a great deal with virgin,had them for years and have the full package and i rang them last month and knocked £25 a month off the bill. Top broardband and not any one out there can come close,i have the top one upto 350 and i don't get a lot less even in peak times. And i have had not a lot of problems in years,ok stuff off a few times for updates but they all have this but the speed it amazing on 4 devices.

I was with Sky but it was too slow and there fibre can only go up to 50mb in my area so I thought sod it and got virgin 350mb £35 a month including line rental

That's not a massive list, and buying a new car is always going to cost more, but it does help with the man-maths to justify getting a new toy 😆 Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I completely agree with this, obviously it changes depending on the time of day, but most people on the road are in a rush for all sorts of reasons, modern life is hectic, things always over-run or totally unexpected delays occur. But a small minority of people aren't in a rush at all, usually older people that are trying to fill their day somehow. Getting stuck behind one of those is annoying, but by the time you're behind the 3th or 4th in one trip and getting later and later, patience starts running low... I found I got the most tailgaters in the stripey ST150 with Miltek de-res, mainly people in other warm hatches wanting to play rather than anything malicious...but the ST150 runs out of puff far too quickly to play for any length of time! This winds me up no end! They're usually the ones to flash or beep if you overtake through the 60s as well... 🤦‍♂️ With an imminent house move, it's probably better to just get it through MOT this year...but consider a change next year...

Any modification should be notified, it varies with insurers as to what is and isnt allowed, you dont want to find out that your insurer wont pay out when you need them to do. Speak to your insurer and run past them the mods you are thinking to do.

I've edit this guide thismorning to transfer all images from the image host Photobucket over to the forum, This means the images will now display forever without me having to pay a monthly fee to Photobucket. The forum didn't host images back when I created the guides. I plan to transfer all images in each of my guide's as I get the time across the coming weeks. 👍

I've edit this guide thismorning to transfer all images from the image host Photobucket over to the forum, This means the images will now display forever without me having to pay a monthly fee to Photobucket. The forum didn't host images back when I created the guides. I plan to transfer all images in each of my guide's as I get the time across the coming weeks. 👍

Actually there is a third category of tailgater - 40 mile per hour man - who drops behind in a 60 limit then arrives back up your chuff every time you do 30 through a village... Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Obviously the easiest way would be to flip the car 180degrees and give it a good shake, or maybe just jimmy out that piece of trim, as if removing the socket completely so you can turn it upside down and give the bottom a playful slap 🤭

Hi @Bannko - after nine pages of requests for help I'm so pleased to see you're still helping people with this. Just taken ownership of a 16 Kuga Tit Sport with Sync 2 but no Sat Nav. If you're able to PM over the instructions for how to enable this, it would be massively appreciated. Thanks in advance, Ben

Good to hear. I also have a 16 year old silver fox which also failed its MOT on a fractured rear spring and a missing heat shield. Done the jobs today and she's back in for her retest on Tuesday. Including MOT and cost of parts, £150 all in. Its better the devil you know sometimes and I've spent a fortune on her this year this rebuilding the A/C, new brakes all around, 80% suspension overall and other jobs.

It wouldnt be the car as that fire was at the back of the house🤣. Did check the car as my grandparents came and parked next to it. I secretly got the keys to their car and opened the doors to check that it wouldn't touch my car when fully opened which hopefully it didn't.

Oh a poor line but I'm going to say it... if you get the woman with it, send her my way 😉

Hi all finally got round to fixing the problem. The culprit being the oil pump. Just like siggy_7 had the same problem. Took the pump out and it was caked in so much thick muck in the filter mesh. No wonder no oil was getting pumped to the top of the engine, which was obviously causing the rattle being so dry. You can actually unbolt the front plate on the pump to get right in to the mesh to clean. Gave it a good clean with brake cleaner until it was looking like new. Put everything back together an started the car, rattle was there for about 3 seconds and went as soon as the oil got pumped up, car drives much better and no rattle or low oil pressure light anymore. Only long thing was the process to get the pump out having to drop exhaust etc. Thanks alot everyone for all the responses and help.

A massive thank you to @Bannko who provided the information and I can confirm it completely works! I am a complete novice with no experience of this sort of thing at all. @Bannko provided extremely clear instructions and I was able to follow them and get the system up and running. Just a little bit of patience and the task was complete! Thank you so much. Carl.

@TimST2 This isn't the motivation we're looking for, you're supposed to influence the decision to buy an ST, not defer it @zain611 If it helps, there is a lovely Colorado Red one for sale in Northern Ireland, £1700 grooved uprated discs, compomotive alloys I think, lowered slightly and would be a cracking drive home for you. Get it bought :D:D

Certainly looks like it given it’s location. Does it feel oily?

That’s gearbox oil

Hi, I am new to forum also.... i have just swapped my Titanium X 1.5 for a new Focus Vignale 1.0. I was a bit nervous about the 1 ltr 3 cylinder engine to be honest, but it seems to be an amazing little engine, though a bit disappointed with the economy as advertised, even in 'economy mode'. I can't manage more than 36 mpg, though I am only doing short journeys. it will be interesting to see what it does on longer journeys. At the moment i am having problems with Sync 3 where it freezes at least twice a day- luckily there is a reboot sequence (hold power button and seek right for 10 seconds). Its a bug and sure it will get sorted. But my biggest problem with it is that it seems there were a number of these models manufactured with the standard Active Park Assist instead of Active Park Assist 2 as advertised- mine being one of them. Very disappointed at this and I am waiting to hear from Ford whether they can retrospectively load it after it leaves the factory. Anyone thinking of buying one make sure you get what is in the brochure! No Rattles or wind noise at the moment seems a very quiet car. Its supposed to have double glazed windows (I read somewhere) and B&O Active Noise Reduction. Very pleased with it so far despite the above!

Thanks for the replies. Guess I'll just drive and see what happens! I guess there is always something that could go bang with any car - part of owning one I suppose. Great car though. I've wanted a Focus ever since the mark 1 came out and somehow I've never quite got round to it. Glad I waited until the MK3 now though!

i dont know if this is going to be of any help to anyone. i had my turbo cleaned out about 6 months ago. ever since then i was getting the surging issue when pushing the accelerator down hard. as if the turbo was coming on and off all the time. well last weekend i decided to change my air filter, while taking the box off i noticed the air pipe that goes to the filter box was only just touching it. so undone the jubilee clip and pushed as hard as i could to get it back on. took a while and some washing up liquid but it slotted on. hey presto, no more surging. its like having the car back as new. i can confirm that its the issue with mine because the problem came back today. looked under the bonnet and once again the air filter pipe has popped off slightly again. hope its help to someone out there.

Few thing completed today summit rear upper brace installed in the boot carbon fibre intake scoop carbon fibre battery cover carbon fibre bumper panel few more things coming this week to kick it up another notch!

Decided she was getting one quick deep clean before holiday New RS spoiler gels in carbon fitted as well

Just ordered one thanks for the link, I sometimes have starting issues random, sounds just this fix. Is it an easy job to do any tips or is it just easy swop over and away we go

Had my Mondeo Ghia for 17 years, hardly ever missed a beat, I shed a tear when she had to go due to a poorly repaired repair to the cill I made which was picked up on an advisory. Traded it in for a Fusion, as the kids have flown, and we no longer needed a big car. Kept the Fusion for 18 months but never had any love for it. Traded that in last week for a 2007 2litre mk2 Focus Ghia with FSH and i'm back in love again, hence the reason i'm posting on here to you wonderful people 😀

I replaced my fuel filter a couple of months ago. Got it from euro car parts. With some discount it was around £35. Runs a lot better now. My cars a 2009 2.2 tdci txs. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Hello Fellow Ford Fans! After many many posts popping up asking similar questions, we at FOC have decided to put together a little thread of known issues and troubles that rear their ugly heads during the winter months! Of course these issues aren't the be all and end all but it may go a little way to diagnosing your issues! Batteries: Your battery is vital, without it, your car may as well be a toaster! Battery issues tend to happen in colder months because of the stresses and strains you put on them during the colder seasons, heated screens, heated seats, colder operating temps, using lights more, heating glow plugs (Diesel only) all consume power. Getting into your car first thing on a -5*c morning, and expecting the battery to cope with all the electrical things is a tall order!! Cold ambient temps can cause battery's to fail, Car batteries produce electrons through chemical reactions. During cold weather, the battery's chemical reactions take place more slowly, meaning they are producing fewer electrons with which to power the engine. In addition, the engine's oil thickens during cold weather, causing the engine to require up to three times as much power to turn over. All this extra power needed will drain the battery mischief quicker. Symptoms of a dodgy battery will be poor or non starting (usually accompanied by a clicking sound) You can self test your battery by turning on the ignition and testing the battery with a multimeter, then turning on high drain items like heated screens or main beam, and seeing how much the battery drops or starts to discharge. A healthy battery should last a while and not discharge too quick or drop it's voltage much. Alternators: Your alternator charges your battery, but also supplies your car with all the electrics you need when driving. Similar to the battery, in the colder months we put a lot more strain onto the alternator. We ask it to run heated screens, seats, fans for blowing the hot air into the car, running lights, sometimes fog lights also, run the radio, use the wipers... All in all your asking it to provide a lot!! Sometimes on a worn alternator this can be too much! Alternators can overheat, if the engine is left running for periods of time with no movement, typically like when you leave the car to defrost or warm up on a frosty day... Add this to the exta power your wanting it to provide and bang... The end of your alternator. I had this once, and had smoke coming from under the bonnet! What had happened was the bearings inside had overheated due to being run for long periods of time and the bearings had collapsed. Luckily just a new alternator shaft was needed. Alternators also have diodes in, to convert the alternating current into direct current, to charge your battery and supply the 12v (well anywhere between 13-15) that your car needs. If one of these diodes fails, the alternator then cannot supply the required power. Symptoms are a regularly flat battery, and maybe dim lights. You can test the alternator yourself, by putting a multimeter across the battery when the car is running, however now with smart charge systems, it's not as easy to self diagnose, as the alternator/ECU will regulate the amount of charge given to the battery. Starter Motors: In cold weather it takes a lot more energy and work to start a car. This added strain can cause starter motors to overheat. If your vehicle has trouble starting on cold mornings it's more than likely one of the other issues, however if you keep trying to crank the car without it starting its important you stop and let things cool/settle... A starter motor can and will overheat if you try to crank the car for prolonged periods of time. Starter motors can also get "sticky" after time, and the problem can be temporarily solved by a gentle tap with a block of wood or similar... I am not for one minute suggesting that you try this when you car refuses to start, especially in the colder months, but this could be a symptom in the warmer months! Similar to a battery, symptoms will be poor or non starting and maybe a click from the starter motor. Fuel Filters: This is more geared for Diesel Owners, as petrol doesn't get affected in the same way. When diesel gets cold, it suffers from waxing or gelling, this means that below a certain temperature wax molecules start forming in the diesel. These molecules then start clumping together forming larger flakes, which in turn stick to things... Normally fuel lines, fuel filters, injector nozzles... Anywhere where the fuel runs! This of course can cause fuel starvation, meaning your engine will stall, go into limp mode, etc etc. Once a fuel filter becomes blocked it's often easier and cheaper just to replace it, rather than to try running additives through it to clean it. One thing I will stress is that most TDCi engines appear to be quite fussy on fuel filters, with many being a pig to reprime and start if using a non ford item. I know this from personal experience! Manufacturers have built in ways to combat waxing, by putting in an Excess Fuel Return system, or a spill return system, by which any excess fuel from the injector pump and injectors is returned to the fuel tank. Once the engine has warmed, returning warm fuel prevents waxing in the tank. Fuel suppliers also do their bit by supplying "Winter Diesel" this basically has some additives added, to prevent the waxed molecules from joining together, these additives however do not stop the waxing itself. There are some things you can do to prevent this, adding winter additive yourself, fitting a diesel pre heater. In days gone by, people used to add a little petrol, or kerosene. A practice still used by some Land Rover owners, however doing this on a modern TDDi or TDCi unit will be sending your car to an early grave! DO NOT add petrol or kerosene to your fuel! Symptoms of a blocked filter will be poor starting or non starting, limp mode or stalling when driving. You may also get either a glowplug warning light or the engine management light. Fuel Filter Housings: Something which I luckily seem to have avoided, however many colleagues and members on here have suffered with it! In the cold, things contract or get smaller. Something that appears fine when warm can give faults and issues when it's operating temp lowers substantially. Plastic is also known to get more brittle and fragile when cold. If you have a cracked fuel filter housing you may not necessarily know about it in the warmer months or once the car is up to running temperature, however when cold te plastic will shrink slightly, opening up any hairline cracks, letting air into your fuel system, and probably also forcing fuel out! Tell tale symptoms are the car stalling or going into limp mode when cold, but appearing to drive well when warm. Again warning lights on the dash! This can often be overlooked when people complain of running issues, so make sure you have a poke around first and double check. Glow Plugs: Again a diesel only thing. I could get technical and talk about thermal diffusion, but I won't! Basically for a diesel to start efficiently and easily, the cylinders have to be warmed in colder temps. This is done by glow plugs! They only operate for seconds, if that! But If they fail then you end up throwing diesel into a cylinder that's stone cold, and it takes longer to start. Obviously issues occur in winter as this is when the glowplugs are needed the most. Again symptoms of dodgy glowplugs will be rough or prolonged starting, white smoke from exhaust (note smoke and not steam from condensation) and a strong smell of unburnt diesel. You may get the glowplug light flashing on the dash, but in my experience you don't get this unless they are well and truly dead!! Glow Plug Loom: With the extra power needed to run the glowplugs for longer, this can of course cause wiring looms to work harder. On the end of the glowplug rail (some cars have this some don't) you will find a ring connector on the end of a wire, this can burn out and melt, causing a bad connection to the glow plugs. This means the glowplugs either aren't getting the full voltage or may have gone faulty and drawing more power than they should. This is easily sorted by chopping the loom back to a good bit of wire and recrimping a ring connector onto it. I have been reliably informed that this is how the main dealers do it unless the loom is completely burnt or it's too short. Symptoms will be similar to above, however if you lift the bonnet and get someone to crank the car over for you, you may be lucky (if you think of it that way) to see some smoke coming from the burnt end of the loom! Also look for black burnt ends on cables near the location of glowplugs. Forum Member big_dav3 has also created this handy winter survival guide. To make sure you don't get caught out this winter visit The Winter Survival Guide I hope that this thread has helped some of you diagnose your cold weather issues! This list is of course not extensive and there are many other things that could be causing your issues but these are a good starting point! Thanks for reading! The FOC Team.

I have heard it that the abs does a check as you start off although it's not something I have ever looked into and as far as downsizing is concerned I def know where you are coming from, I've just got rid of my mapped 3.0d jag xf and bought a 1.0 ecoboost Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Just saw this not long ago from my room. Thankfully the firebrigade came and put it out.

Check ALL the fuse's cost me an hour £136 with the vat for a blown fuse.