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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/15/2019 in all areas
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That's odd I've done mine 12-13 times and it should just pull out once the bolts are removed. I think I've figured out why you're struggling, there are actually 7 bolts to remove, 3 at the bottom and 4 at the top. At the top there are 2 bolts that are exposed (1 near each corner) and 2 that hold the lock/latch mechanism in place, I suspect due to the advice above you've probably not realised the lock/latch bolts also need to come out.2 points
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2 points
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As an owner of a MK3 who’s just stuck his door seals back on for the 738262828th time, this made me chuckle with sadness 😂2 points
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1 point
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Been there and done that myself mate, brute force has its place but generally not when it comes to removing interior trim parts!1 point
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1 point
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Wow, what a fabulous piece of advice, thank you. I've just gone out with a torch and can confirm I totally missed those 2 x 'latch' bots as they are slightly recessed and I just never noticed them. Indeed the earlier '5 screw' mention did confuse the situation! I will try again in daylight, but I'm confident now with your help that I can remove the box. So glad I didn't try to lever it out earlier, I would have made a right mess! See, a little knowledge can be dangerous LOL1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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No doubt you are not sticking them back on properly. Done correctly they will stay on.1 point
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So it's going to totally crap out when (poorly) driving on ice/snow? 😂 That's Ford for ya! When I said 'road speed' I meant the signal relating to road speed, from the vss or abs ring. If it detects the engine speed 'signal' increasing without a corresponding increase in road speed 'signal' that would indicate clutch slip.1 point
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1 point
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Abject failure! Got round to trying this small task earlier, removed the 5 x T25 screws no problem. Then, on trying to remove the internal glove box, it wouldn't budge! The bottom feels as if it would wiggle out, but the top appears to be held in so tight, it doesn't' move a single mm. I was contemplating using a flathead screwdriver, but the plastic is that cheap that I know I would only end up marking it. So after 20 minutes of struggle, I just gave up. I still maintain it's an awful design to replace a bulb. All Ford needed to do was cut the light aperture into a large enough rectangle to allow a couple of fingers in to do the task. For lowly models like mine, you could have just keep it a hole, and for posher model, you could have put a light diffuser on it! Just like they did in the luggage compartment. I'm sure they had their reasons for doing it like they did (probably cost), but my goodness it's irritating!1 point
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Mine has two but I've fitted them myself 30Amp and 40Amp circuit breakers for the amplifiers,; Trip switch style fuses are also a thing but not factory fitted here's a link: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32941968562.html?pid=808_0000_0131&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32941968562&aff_trace_key=&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=1061JlzV89sB9TZikiMsjkXUgqHKzJh3sLrf_319wqhOhwR9oOqZeYRn2eZpxQfsPp_u15475582913921 point
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wheels look good mate, although i like the stock ones better. like mentioned i would hold onto them as it will suit better when selling car . yunii Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk1 point
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I just use a cheap household window cleaner with vinegar in for the windscreen. Strips through grease and wax easily so be sure not to get it on the bodywork. Bodywork is more difficult, if it's wax that's gone off, you might find it difficult to remove without removing the good wax from the surrounding area. Quick detailer/Showroom shine is probably worth a try as Ryan said.1 point
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I use isopropyl alcohol for windscreen, and for the stubborn marks you could try some sort of quick detailer like Autoglym Rapid Detailer and try get rid of it that way, that's what I do if I find any minor inperfections1 point
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the fifteen 52s do look good and always liked them. Happy with my current indicator bulbs at the minute lol.1 point
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1 point
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Hi @Bannko Would really appreciate the info for sat nav activation on my Sync 2 also if you could oblige. Much appreciated 👍🏻1 point
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Most likely it's the pipework for the heating system rather than engine coolant. The engine should be fine but the heater pipework obviously needs replacing. You have 3 statutory legal options- they repair the car, they replace the car or you reject the car. Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)1 point
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Okay that makes sense! Thankyou for quick reply appreciate it!1 point
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Easy to find they come of the DPF 2 pipes they go forward and up the bulkhead. I dont remember them been shown in the haynes manual.1 point
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It's called cack handed lol nah I know I was brought up with the old ones and when I got one of these was like wtf. You need to not hold the pump elevated like you would on the normal ones or it will click like f**k just straight as can be and will click when full. Definitely you need a full replacement that's destroyed.1 point
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I loved that car tried to find one last year but wanting to much lol then got the 406 then 806 never had any probs with them pugs1 point
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1 point
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I suspect that there have been a fair few 2009 onwards Lynx engines that have gone pop/boom from owners not knowing the lower chain was changed for a wetbelt.1 point
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yes here are the pics of the wheels this is the wheel before so you can see with the after pic how much better the new wheels fill the arches. also gone back to the standard rear lights at the minute so put in silver indicator bulbs to get rid of the fried egg look and bought a set of autobeam reverse l.e.d bulbs and must say they are bright bring the rear light up to date a treat. did try to catch a before with the standard bulb and after with the l.e.d but look better in the flesh. bottom pic is before standard bulb and the one above is after l.e.d bulb did buy a s badge from ebay that I added to the front grill. that it for the mo next on the list I want to get a custom exhaust just got to save again now lol also need to attach the front splitter from Maxton design when I got some spare time and the weather improves. Must say very happy with how the wheels have made the car look and glad I went for these as I was also looking at a set of bola B1S or bola B10S.1 point
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not posted for a while. yunii Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk1 point
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That wouldn't have been common rail though... It'll be mechanical injection XUD engine, and as long as it was on a Bosch pump, not a Lucas one, you could've run it on neat veg no problem, as well as old engine oil or even unfiltered WVO lol.1 point
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I've had two Fiestas with folding mirrors for the last 5 years. Never had a problem, even in the coldest weather.1 point
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1 point
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Is the rest of the time intrumentation working correctly, if so it may be sticky Switch causing the problem, +1 for poss dpv regen1 point
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The burning smell could possible by the DPF performing a regeneration cycle, especially if the radiator fan seemed to be running at more or less full tilt.1 point
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1 point
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Dear All - thanks for your suggestions. SOLUTION : after checking replacing the lock (which was faulty) the boot still would not open, but then noticed that the fuel filler cap was not locking when locking the car - checked and the fuse for that had blown, so replaced it and that made the boot work again! This is despite the manual stating that the fuse I replaced that fixed the boot only affects the fuel filler cap. So assume when the lock died that blew the fuse so once lock and fuse replaced all good . Hope this helps other on here1 point
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1 point
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Many thanks for the guides, I will look at getting this done over Xmas and new year, sorry for the delay in replying.1 point
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So it's going to totally crap out when (poorly) driving on ice/snow? 😂 That's Ford for ya!0 points
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