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If it's a rough and ready copy kit, the body shop will drill holes and use Tiger seal to fit. The longevity of it will be disappointing. I have experience of cheap kits, and proper branded ones, the proper branded ones are expensive for a reason. My Celica GT4 has a genuine Varis body kit which was almost £2000 when new, However, after 20+ years on the car, it looks as good as the day it was fitted ...

I'm same as you spent years building computers and believe me this is a lot easier than hooking up the I/O to your motherboard the first time round. With genuine parts no glue or tape is needed at all sits very nicely, I'd happily come and help you fit them if you lived some place close ish

I guess an old fashioned circular glass headlamp just works...

Price I mentioned would include the prep pal

Please remember folks, that the "New Member Introductions" area is just to say "Hi, My name is... I drive a .... and I am interested in...." Please do not post "should I change...." or "What do you think...." or any other conversations in this area, only post hello's and if you are looking for help then you need to post elsewhere (please read on). 1) If your driving one of the main Ford Groups (Fiesta, Focus, CMAX, SMAX, Galaxy, Sierra etc) then please post your questions, advice, guidance, how do I's in this appropriate category if it refers to your car. for example "My Fiesta wont start" - Fiesta forum. "My CMAX blew up" - CMAX section. "My Mondeo is driving me crazy" - Mondeo Section. If your posting about a particular make of car, put it in that section. 2) Only post in the "Guides" sections if you are posting a guide (like you see in Haynes!) on how to do something. "A guide on how to remove the pollen filter from a Focus" - Focus Forum - Focus Guides sub forum. "A guide on how to replace a battery on a Fiesta" - Fiesta Section - Fiesta Guides Sub Forum 3) If you have questions, or suggestions of a cleaning / detailing nature - "How should I wash my car?" or "what polish can I use to make my car sparkle" belong in the detailing and cleaning section. All of these will help you to best get a response. Please do not post anything and everything into either the introductions, or the "general chat" sections. On this forum, we have a lot of members, who between them have an excellent level of knowledge in specific car area's, and they tend to congregate more so in their own area's. If you want a quick answer, Post directly in that section and someone can hopefully come back to you soon. Please DO NOT post multiple copies of the same thread and/or post, as these are likely to be removed. Please review the main forum page, and familiarize yourself with the categories and forum's that we have. We are here to help, and as a forum, pride ourselves as being the best on the net (top of most ford related searches!) as such, to ensure that you get the best from us as a new member, please help yourselves, and help us to get back to you sooner rather than later.

The front is just a splitter underneath your bumper is a black piece of plastic trim going pretty much the full length of your bumper, the bumpers are the exact same it's just a splitter that is added on

Given OP's car is very nearly brand new and must have been expensive, I wondered whether a visit to the dealership might not be a good idea. I did make the point in my post that the OP wasn't saying that his car was failing to do anything it should be doing so (all other things being equal) it was all still properly screwed together. I was then ticked off by someone on the grounds that I might have been discouraging people from asking questions, that the OP might be a busy man and that this was a sensor needing to be plugged back in which could be done on the drive. A couple of others then chipped in including someone who supplied a clapping hands emoji applauding the criticism directed at me. The OP's asked many questions. He may well be a busy man. Another owner of the same car eventually said the sensor is unused, so hasn't been detached from anywhere and therefore doesn't seem to have a place to be plugged back in. I don't claim much in the way of technical competence, but I do try to help. Of course, pointlessly negative responses to my posts might discourage me. I don't have access to emojis but do wonder if there's one which illustrates the old advice to always turn on the brain before putting the mouth in gear.

It has taken me a couple of weeks to get the bits together and several emails between myself and Banko but this evening I installed and activated my SatNav. Pit was a little worrying when I had to re boot the Sync2 unit. Thanks for then help.

MK3 PFL's don't have a service indicator.

It worked on two fords i owned and also on my RS. You need to fully depress both until the dash confirms the reset process. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

To fit spoiler its p&p front and back its only extension , requiring removing matt piece , im sure you can do it yourself for sure

Stickers wouldn't work on a steel wheel as there is nothing for it to stick to, just a 56mm hole. I really though the 'caps' would have been a good solution, but hey, I think alot of things that don't actually work out LOL

Hello everyone! Happy ford owner here! Owner of a mk2,5 from 2009! Nice to find you all!

I can tell you the parts that are from that company are rubbish and suffer quite bad from cracking after about 12 months due to heat cycles e.g. weather going hot then cold. Genuine parts require no extra holes as all the holes are already in the correct place and simply connect to your car, the whole process for me only took around 1 hour 30 mins. Side skirts can be a bit fiddly but still pretty easy, I'd recommend a flat head screw driver with a cloth wrapped around the tip to avoid scratches when removing all the old clips EDIT: Top tip maybe a plastic trim removal tool would be a better idea than the flat head screw driver.

The quality of those will be rubbish, they aren't genuine parts, hence the price. Ford won't be interested in modifications, you'd have to ask an independent bodyshop to do the work.

Lol, yeah it seems the music is a cure for a lot of problems! Thanks for your advice, as I said I’ve only had the car a short time, less than a week, so all the noises are new to me. As I have the warranty I might as well use it. Let them decide if it’s serious or not. Are there any other problems I should be looking out for in the future that are seen as common faults with these cars? My car is currently on 52,000 miles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ST and RS models have so many things rattle. Mine is a rattle box and you should see the RS vibro massage everyone when the aircon is turned on at idle :). Have it checked, express your concerns and make sure it is not something serious. Once you do that and the car still rattles turn the music louder :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I'm using night breakers in my current C class. They do make a big difference from standard halogens.

Hi guys and girls! Just bought a nice shiny 2013 ST Focus (250) looking forward to talking to you all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If your changing you head lights to led it will fail it’s MOT due to the beam patten. I found this out when I had fitted a set of led Headlight bulbs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol, that was my concern about Matt black. Poundland Corsa wheels, hit the nail on the head there. Thanks

Definitely gloss...matt black wheels look like you've just bought a can of Poundland paint for a 15 year old Corsa... Plasticote is alright if you plan to change colour regularly, it's not particularly robust though, only takes one stonechip for the paint to start peeling.

That is a fairly common problem. Not hard or expensive to fix either, though a bit fiddly. See: The vent problem sounds a bit more difficult to deal with, if one of the flap operating linkages is broken, then it is quite a big dismantling job to get at the heater unit. For the horn, first remove the plastic trim above the grille at the front of the engine bay, usually just some little plastic scrivets (push-in, screw out thingys), see if two horn units were fitted, or if the horn is just clapped out.

@Bannko could I have the instructions on how to unlock the sat nav on a sync 2 on a focus zetec s 2016 reg please?

So need to smoke the lights on my magnetic grey Fiesta. Its on my to-do list. Yours look great.

I am in no way knowledgeable about the way sophisticated engine maps function.... but after looking at this a bit more recently, it seems many tuners are only working on an adaption element of the engine management "not the actual mapping". So the manufacturer can do pretty much what they want with ignition and fueling within emission regs and longevity lines. Many BMWs don't get mapped fully as few brave enough or knowledgeable to do it. Depending upon the system it may have multiple maps that, based on fuel type, ambient temp, lamda feedback, altitude, drive mode selected etc. is used as a starting point for an almost continuously variable map. Thus because it jumps around taking info from all over these multiple 3d maps you don't get to just tweak one data point with 1/4 degree more advance or 2% more fuel for a quick remap. After the manu basis to work from - another "adaption area" comes in to play to add its ideas to the party. This should be full of minor tweaks to compensate for bad manufacturing tolerance during an engine's build, engine wear, odd sensor readings and I guess to some extent bad driving etc. These adaption fixes are added over and above the std map/maps. And together with the map, adaption tweaks are what the car uses day to day. this would also indicate why some "remaps" are undetectable by franchised garages... the map is the std. one, it was never touched !!! the amount of change within this adaption area must be quite limited as its supposed to tweak things, not re engineer the mapping, but I think nasty bodging is going on by most tuners. Once the limitation of the adaption changes are reached if the manu winds the car down (because of a weak clutch) - a bodge on remap can't regain it.

Battery Pos, almost any fuse in passenger footway Ignition Pos, fuse 86 Nighttime lights, easiest would be the submarine lights in the Passenger footwell As you say, plenty of grounds everywhere

Hi all, I want to share with you all My Ford Focus Titanium and the process of it's modification Build .. All Comments Welcome Enjoy...... The day I knew she was the one .... I had a Focus style 57plate before this, but not for long at all due to issues.. however my Old one came with the mini ST alloys so i got the ford dealers to swap the wheels over :) Added ice white LED Lights to the interior light and foot well and Glove box a Red LED. I ordered some new number plates with Legal 3d font no border or GB logo Purchased the Zetec S Lower Grille, it wasnt as easy to pop the standard titanium one out as i thought it would be I pretty much gave up and just snapped the chrome surround off.. white LED registration lights and side light and Xenon headlight Colour coded the washer jets I purchased the Zetec S front skirt second hand on ebay, the skirt was cracked but with a bit of TLC was easily sorted and now looks brand new all primed ready to be painted ..... this will be done by a pro... and this... not to sure what its called but i sprayed it.. De-badged the 1.6 ... i wanted to leave the Titanium on though DRL fog surrounds are on the way in the post ( now fitted ) I was going to have them carbon fibre hrydro dipped but i really wanted the DRL's...

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