Leaderboard

Blimey, haven't seen another Mk2 ST that late! I reckon it was a proper bargain at the time to make someone choose it over a facelift!! 😮 Surprised it didn't rust away in the compound... Build Date: 08.11.2007 First Registration Date: 01.03.2009 Nice one! I've just started playing CoD MW online...did you ever get it? I don't really know how the cross platform works though!

That is a very low mileage for a DMF failure. It could be there was a weakness in it, or it could be the engine has been used too much at low RPM and wide throttle. My car is on 175k miles, I am not sure if the DMF is original (I bought the car in 2011 at about 130k miles), but it certainly rattles and clanks quite a lot now. I just drive with a bit more caution, minimum revs I can get away with without stalling at pull-away, and more relaxed gear changes especially 1st-2nd and 2nd-3rd. I can still beat many cars off the lights if I need to, flooring it in 3rd just leaves little petrol engine cars way behind! I use very gentle throttle openings until the engine gets up to about 1700rpm, the DMF gets much more wear at low rpm. The point of this is that a little bit of noise or vibration from a DMF is not abnormal. When they go really wrong, they tend to fail quite rapidly and very noticeably, making the car almost unusable. So I suggest taking alternative opinions on the DMF, and not rushing into an expensive repair unless really needed. That said, £500 seems a very reasonable price for combined clutch and DMF replacement, Perhaps even too reasonable? It is a big job, with lots that can go wrong, from bending the gearbox input shaft to damaging the ABS sensors, so it needs to be done by a trustworthy garage. If the symptoms remain tolerable, I would put off the job as long as possible to get maximum use out of the current clutch, and then make sure the garage I used had a good reputation for the job, even if that cost £100 more or so. Thread with sound of a worn DMF: If the link to the video fails, I have a copy I can upload (if I can upload 29MB!)

Well i picked up mt ST-3 this morning and wow i love it. I have hooned it a few times in sport mode just to see but going to be sensible until she has been run in properly . But now 60 miles on the clock and had a smile every mile.

@Albert27 lol, yes it was me 😁 My 05 plate MK2 is less than 100 miles off hitting 170K. Strangely, since I had to have the gearbox replaced, the clutch doesn't make the groaning noise when pulling off that it used to do, although it took a month or so to settle down after the gearbox replacement. To be honest it feels spot on now, although now I've said that I'll probably set off for work on Monday morning and have the DMF shatter, taking the gearbox with it! 🤬 🤬 🤬

And jobs a good un and I now have music from my phone, somewhere to plug in my heated seat cover etc

Maybe get a second opinion, its always worth it before shelling out. I had a mechanic tell me my flywheel was on its way out and in the end turned out to be the cat!

@TomsFocus @dtulip8 exam went well yesterday so really happy with that 😁. Just now hoping I do well in the application and appitude test for the training I want to go into. If I do well I'll hopefully get an interview. That's not bad to be honest on that anniversary. Again just comes down to what happens. Yeah all cars are different in terms of maintenance. I paid around £300 for getting the injectors reconditioned and other parts like injector seats, glow plugs etc but since then mechanically the car has been great. Only problem is the AC pipe split just after the condenser so no AC plus the wheels on these cars aren't great as they buckle.

The 1.6 TDCI has a DMF that is grease dampened instead of spring dampened. On a 1.6 TDCI failure of the grease dampened DMF is very rare. A lot more common on the 1.6 TDCI is failure of the crankshaft pulley which has an integrated torsional damper. The symptoms of a defective crankshaft pulley are similar to the symptoms of a defective DMF. A severely worn crankshaft pulley can cause unbalance which in some cases can even be felt in the clutch pedal.

Surely this must be the latest registered MK2?!

Clutch kits do not normally come with a flywheel, a normal 2 piece clutch kit comes with the clutch disc and pressure plate, the 3 piece kit comes with clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing. You normally always have to buy the flywheel separately

Very true pal, I've never used my VIN and always done it the long way round lol, I don't like to make things too easy for myself [emoji1787][emoji1787] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Hi just to say that iv looked at all the fuses in my father's car and the connecters all a ok so its down to the insument cluster, will be trying to fix it when have time thanks for all your help

Yeah, it does go off after about 15 mins...

Sometimes when I stop and let the engine idle, there is a slight speed variation, and a regular clank. Not loud, but noticeable. Listening under the bonnet it did not have a clear source, but was appreciably clearer with my ear by the passenger side wheel arch, and not noticeable by the driver side one. Thus I reckon it is the DMF.. The same test should be able to distinguish between crankshaft pulley at the driver side wheel arch, and clutch at the passenger side one. @Albert27, I lied about the mileage, it is 176,991 now, just checked!

Good recall mate, I do about 15-16K miles a year so my car will do well to get to 200K before something major kills it off. I fully intend on keeping it going until it properly craps itself i.e. a £600+ job, then it's Mondy MK4.5 2.2 TDCi Titanium X Sport time! 😁

Glad my memory wasn't failing me 😄 I remember you being unsure about keeping it or not but glad its running sweet now. All good on mine, the last 12 months has been a service, new EGR valve & a new dip beam bulb today so can't complain too much. 😄 Where were the mileages the last time we compared? Who's catching who?

Holy cow, why would you go to a main dealer. 🤑 There are various web sites these days that make it easy to find a trusted local independent.

I think I better. Cheers

Cheers all So for anyone else wanting to do this, this is what I did: Used the above piggy back fuse holder, couldn't find a spare switched live fuse on the board so I piggy backed with the rear wiper (Fuse 131 on mine) Used two new cigarette lighters wired together and then took the positive cable under the gear gaiter and ran it down the passenger side panel to the fuse box, tucks away nice and neatly there 🙂 The negative went to a bolt underneath the centre consol and was nice and easy to place

Hi all, new member from south Cumbria, moved back from Australia Oct 2018, and imported my mk2 facelift Focus XR5 Turbo with me. Potentially one of a very few in the UK? After dealing with the import headache from HMRC and DVLA I'm very close to getting it registered and UK road legal. Exciting times ahead since I've been waiting 12months!! Aiming for a spring 2020 launch (when the rain and salt combinations are off the roads) HA! Matt

Slightly off topic Peter but its good to have a mileage update! Mine's on 173k. Can't remember where we were last time but I might be catching you 😄 Who else was in the race to 200k? Was it @1979Damian ?

2015 (MK3.5) should have be 1.5 TDCI and not a 1.6 TDCI. However both the 1.5 TDCI and the 1.6 TDCI in the Focus MK3/MK3.5 do have the same type of DMF flywheel and the Ford B6 gearbox. This type of flywheel is known to be very durable and failure is very rare. Usually these flywheels only need to be replaced after severe clutch failure or if the grease leaks out of the flywheel.

That’s good, I’m sure you’ve done well 😁. Like you say, any car can have its issues at any moment, and it’s nice to have a car that you know is mechanically sound.

I'm not going to ford. I couldn't afford it

Self-same thing happened to one of my parents' boilers (can't remember what make). Their installer tried to get it replaced foc as it was only just out of warranty but they were having none of it. The installer replaced it with a new one at cost price to him, and did the work foc, as he said he felt guilty for recommending that make of boiler in the first place, which I think was pretty decent of him.

I agree with Peter £500 for a Fitted DMF and new clutch sounds very cheap.My MK1 DMF failed at 44 000 a new clutch was fitted all genuine Ford parts at a Ford garage £1250 and that was 10 years ago 👍

Hello thank you for your reply :-) yes it’s had a soak in plenty of WD40 and then some 3in1 oil. i’ll order a replacement latch but not sure why it’s working fine with the grill removed but once I put the grill back on it’s back to not working 🤷‍♂️

is the car diesel? I don't think clutch kits usually come with a flywheel. Not sure about changing dual mass flywheel to solid flywheel. Dual mass flywheels are put there for a reason. It acts like a cushion between the engine and gearbox. A solid flywheel may mean pulling away and gear changes are less smooth, more vibration and more chance of gearbox damage. tell us which engine and mileage and some more people might be able to give their views on this

It's natural gas thankfully!

Having owned a Mk5 with halogen headlights I can assure you that you will be appalled by them. Even compared to other halogen lamps the Mk5 falls short. They are borderline dangerous. Ford say it is not possible to retrofit the Dynamic LED units die to wiring and coding. A lot of owners retrofit LED units in place of the halogen counterparts. This does improve things but they are not 'dynamic'. Then there is the legal implications and MOT guidelines to consider, and everyone has their own interpretation of these. At the end of the day a retrofit it unlikely to be road legal, however it's a very common 'mod' done by Mk5 owners. What year are you looking at? Be aware that there is a huge safety issue with late 2014-2017 builds which ford are unwilling to acknowledge, despite doing a safety recall in the US for the same thing. I am admin of a very active and helpful Mk5 Facebook group with over 1.7K members. There is a wealth of information and knowledge on Thier, we also have a member who specialises in aftermarket LED units that come with a 2yr warranty (HNA lighting I think it is called). There are several discussions about lights, steering rack bolts failing and also coding and upgrading using Forscan. Come and have a look at the group, I'm sure you will find it helpful https://www.facebook.com/groups/693277794183606/ Jon Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

From what I hear, Halogen lights are rubbish on the MK5's...you'll be better off finding a car with the optional LED headlights which are bright and do all the beam forming stuff. (drove my friends MK5 and they're way better than my Xenon's in my MK4.5)

is this a mk2.5 focus? There is the common focus mk2 problem with cracked solder on the pins for the connector to the instrument console. generally it is felt that it affects earlier cars but as time goes on i have seen it mentioned on later cars also. i think maybe it has just taken more years for it to become apparent on the later cars. try banging the instrument console and see if that recreates the erratic behaviour of the warning lights.

Just suffered this. The error refers to a packaging issue on one of the archive files in the download. Winzip and other zip tools only unzip a 220 Mb version of the file.JR3T-14G391-AE.tar.gz. It think it should be 1.2 Gb. I discovered this when I downloaded the update again and I used 7 Zip to unpack it to a stick. . It said there was a data issue with JR3T-14G391-AE.tar.gz. when it tried to unzip it.. I used NCH software's unzipping tool and it unzipped a 1.2 Gb version. Ford must have used some zipping tool that behaves erratically with other software. Will try the update again.

Do you just have loads of problems and fed up spending or fed up with the same look and just want a change. Had mine coming to 4 years and its my own car not lease/contract. I always seem to spend money on it just normal stuff like service stuff and new tyres etc then sell it for other peoples joy then see another one.

I have just sold my 2008 Fusion+. last year it cost me over £1000 in repairs, nothing too serious, a door lock mechanism,a new heater resistor block ,two front road springs, front discs and brake pads. I loved my Fusion as it was very practical and only £30 road tax but I could see things needing replacing more and more.There comes a time when the repairs far exceed the value of the car. It still looked as good as new so it was very hard to part with it but I felt that technology was leaving me behind. I only bought it in the first place because the government was putting pressure on the motorist to buy diesels and now they've put pressure on me to buy a petrol car. I miss the efficiency of the diesel, 77 mpg in the flat counties of Norfolk and lincolnshire.

You spend money on what you enjoy or like as i don't smoke or drink and my only stuff i do is car and p.c and t.v. Being at home 24/7 as a carer as we all know a new car every 12 months to 3 years area is not a option as the £££££. If my car looks after me as its there and works then i try and keep it for a long while.

I have copied the sound onto my system for future reference!! £700 is a lot of dosh, but it is still over £300 less than you, or I, thought it would be. Hopefully it will be good for another 80 to 120k miles now, if you keep the car that long. Just before Christmas, a garage overheated my clutch badly doing a test to try to find a noisy wheel bearing. Basically trying to spin the wheels (up on a lift), but the traction control / ABS would not let it. In persisting with trying, the inexperienced mechanic was slipping the clutch until it filled the place with an appalling stink, like gas and burning rubber. I have been looking for oil leaks, clutch slip or DMF noise since then, expecting it to go anytime. Partly my fault, I should have realised what was happening, and stopped the test before then, but it is not easy at a garage. My car is on 156k, it must have had a clutch replacement (it was a police car!), but that would be at least 50k miles ago now, I guess. It could be a bill coming my way all too soon I have always avoided wide throttle openings below about 1500 rpm, to reduce the stress on the DMF. Changing down before the engine even feels a bit lumpy. Max torque is at 1900rpm, and that should be what the DMF is designed for, but the DMF travel (and wear) will increase rapidly below this engine speed. DMF failure at 83k suggests either it was poor quality to start with, or has been overheated at some time, or used heavily at low rpm, by a previous owner quite possibly.

I reckon Ford have a master switch somewhere. Warranty expired - 'click', 80k on the clock - 'click', bit short of cash one month- 'kill switch'. Rotten swine ;)

ditto here :(

I think I cursed myself with mentioning the intercooler hose. It's happened to mine yesterday. Sod's law.