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  1. Eric Bloodaxe

    Eric Bloodaxe

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    Turvey

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    Gary41

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    Matthew McGuinness

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/22/2021 in all areas

  1. I don't like ending up at A+E today! 😳 Not as bad as it sounds, but when I woke up this morning one of my fingers was a bit swollen and I couldn't take my wedding ring off. Tried to get it off with the help of soap etc but wasn't budging. Left it until 10 o'clock and phoned Mrs Turvey, she phoned the docs who recommended getting to A+E ASAP. Nurse managed to remove the ring by threading the cord/ribbon from an oxygen mask through the ring and winding it tightly around my finger and then unwinding it, pulling the ring off my finger. Doctor then came through and after examination thinks it is probably arthritis! Recommended ibruprofen gel 3 times a day to bring swelling down. Only took about an hour and all the staff I was in contact with were absolutely brilliant!!! God bless the NHS ♥️
    2 points
  2. I can’t help feeling this conversation has drifted off topic somewhat... 🤣 Anyway I’ve ordered a Fiesta Active X 2019 plate. Gets delivered on Tuesday. Thanks for all the help!
    2 points
  3. 2 points
  4. Hey! My name is Ben, I own a 1999 MK4 Fiesta 1.3l and I'm interested in doing a 1.7 puma conversion! Any help or advice would be appreciated!
    1 point
  5. Im wanting to retrofit after market heated seats in to my 2014 MK3 PFL ST-2... that’s not a problem. The only issue is, I want to have the factory switches up front where the cup holders/lighter socket is. I’ve found the replacement part on eBay and it’s cheap enough... my question is, how would I go on about wiring the switches built in to this piece? I don’t believe this is tied in to the BCM and it’s a separate manual switches circuit and probably involves a relay. My wiring harness and boot fuse box is already populate and there.. so I can wire the pads in to the seats to the original connectors no problem. The only part I’m trying to get my head around is the factory controls up front... or is there any easier way to do this whilst retaining factory controls? this is the part I’m referring too: Seems to be 2 x pin connectors. Assuming that 2 of the pins on each socket will be 12v and ground and the other two will be signal pins to control the heat of the seats.
    1 point
  6. Go with the Active X, will more than likely already have the B&O speakers with it as its an X and probably a few more things than a B&O Play series aswell. Plus correct me if im wrong but im sure the B&O series come in these dodgy pastel colours! 😉 Edit: Didn't finish the thread, just seen you went with the Active X, good choice!
    1 point
  7. Hey, thanks for replying No never thought that would affect it to be fair 😅 I will check tomorrow when we have sunlight. It’s just a Ford Fiesta like not even two year old, I don’t dare to get in it with the kids.
    1 point
  8. Only thing I was disappointed about was that the nurse went out to speak to a doctor but never came back so I didn't get a chance to thank her. I have sent her a message on Facebook though, hopefully I don't come across as a stalker! 😳😃
    1 point
  9. Cheers Tom. About 30-45 mins after it did the wrench light and then soon as light came on car just stopped the speed. Local garage gonna give it a look over and see what the crack is, give me a price of what I am looking at round about for the Ford garage . cheers
    1 point
  10. Hi, after my wife's 2002 Focus was parked up before Christmas it sat unused for about two months. Now the needles and various warning lights in the dash cluster are jumping around and flashing on and off while driving. Would this be a damp issue or something else? Link to video below. https://photos.app.goo.gl/qZYc2kRYMMrizLa19
    1 point
  11. Lol. That usually happens on here!😀 Be interested to see what you think of the car when you get it.
    1 point
  12. Thank you so much both, I can see the ford community very warm and welcoming thank you!..
    1 point
  13. Welcome to the forum. 1. Depends on your budget otherwise there is plenty aftermarket parts that are just as good. 2. Pretty much what you quoted. Check etis for service intervals https://www.etis.ford.com/ Check brakes/fluid and coolant levels. 3. 5W 30 fully synthetic put your reg into opie oils https://www.opieoils.co.uk/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAjKqABhDLARIsABbJrGkvyPATqjeESIGLEPDfNxYInCc7Nv6Z_uSxnSWY3_We6M4kPwvIcdAaArB9EALw_wcB or eurocarparts 4. It is double din don't you mean single? If so Halfords sell a conversion to single din that just clips in. 5. Fitment for alloys is 5x 108 PCD I would say yes looks better with alloys max 17 though or speedo will start go out of sync. 6. Here is a guide 7. Plenty have done remaps to these engine reliably.
    1 point
  14. Hahaha nope. Just added mine onto my parents breakdown policy 🤣.
    1 point
  15. Lol. Presumably you weren't bothered about the breakdown cover that comes with the convenience check? Mine's only just clicked over 12k in 3 years, for various reasons, including multiple lockdown this year of course. Lowest mileage I've ever done in a car!😀
    1 point
  16. I can't help you with most of the things but it is best to use OEM filters and Castrol Magnatec oil of the correct grade because they make the oil for Ford, although a lot of people use a low ash grade of oil instead and swear that it is better. They may be correct, I don't know.
    1 point
  17. Here is an extract from the owners manual.  Condensation in the Exterior Front Lamps and Rear Lamps Exterior front lamps and rear lamps have vents to accommodate normal changes in air pressure. Condensation can be a natural by-product of this design. When moist air enters the lamp assembly through the vents, there is a possibility that condensation can occur when the temperature is cold. When normal condensation occurs, a fine mist can form on the interior of the lens. The fine mist eventually clears and exits through the vents during normal operation. Clearing time may take as long as 48 hours under dry weather conditions. Examples of acceptable condensation are: The presence of a fine mist (no streaks, drip marks or large droplets). A fine mist covers less than 50% of the lens. Examples of unacceptable condensation are: A water puddle inside the lamp. Streaks, drip marks or large droplets present on the interior of the lens. If you see any unacceptable condensation, have your vehicle checked by an authorized dealer. If it was only one of the Headlights or it happened every time there was a little rain then there could be a problem, otherwise that will happen when the atmospheric conditions are right and it should clear if the car is being used. My car does that sometimes as well but it does clear and there has never been any streaking, drips or large droplets.
    1 point
  18. Going rather off topic but relating to specs being subtly changed. Just noticed that the Performance Pack on the petrol ST which was originally £250 I think, has now gone up to £800. Reason seems to be that it now includes CCD which used to be a standard feature on that model.
    1 point
  19. personally if car is under warranty even if parts aren't i would use main dealer for services.
    1 point
  20. Madness, Im 1 year and 4 months in. done just over 10,000 miles, didn't even get offered a 1st year check haha.
    1 point
  21. Coincidentally just come off the phone from booking mine in for it's 3rd year check/first mot - how time flies!😀
    1 point
  22. You do on Tit X, Active X, ST-L X, Vignale and ST-3. Strange that equivalent Focuses apparently don't. But when I got a Focus Mk 2.5 Titanium I was surprised to find it didn't have EATC as standard, when the Fiesta Titanium had it. (Though I notice that's now gone from the Titanium on the Mk 8 Fiesta, though the Mk 4 Focus Titanium has it. All part of Ford's plan to baffle their customers!)
    1 point
  23. Thanks for info. Think I will keep looking around for a bit. Think I might leave it until I only have a couple months of ford warranty left.
    1 point
  24. While we're taking this thread off topic... Do you have TSR on the Mk8? Just noticed something interesting on the Focus...auto high beam comes standard with adaptive LEDs...but is still listed as part of the driver assist pack with TSR & adaptive cruise. Obviously adaptive cruise would require extra hardware, but I'm guessing TSR must just deactivated in software if the camera is already in place for the auto high beam... 🤔
    1 point
  25. My Wi-Fi crashed for some reason earlier. I was going to also mention Quantum, who do something similar, around 155ps, I think. I've seen the odd positive reviews on here. My local garage are agents for them. They seem to rate them (they would, of course!), but I've used them to service my Mrs's car for some years and found them very honest and competent, so no reason to doubt them. One of the partners has had his Audi A4 3.0TDI remapped to 300ps or so, so he must have confidence in them.
    1 point
  26. It's ok I got some Bosch ones as well😀 thanks On the auto high beam topic, it's been working fine since, I put it down to cold weather when its icy, i'm guessing the sensor gets a little fogged up.
    1 point
  27. I've no plans to mod my car but often look at what's available just out of interest. If I recall, Racechip claim increases of around 25-40 hp for £120-350 or so depending on version, not seen any comments by members on this site though. There are a lot of good reviews (and a few bad) on Trustpilot fwiw. These sort of boxes used to be very popular a few years ago as you could take them off before service as you mention, without them throwing up a marker on the cars system, so couldn't be spotted. I have an idea this may no longer be the case, though. Superchips claim an increase to 163bhp for about £350, quite a few members have used them and seem happy with the results. Can't see why you would need to get into the work and expense of swapping cams on a turbo, unless you were looking for some very serious horsepower indeed.
    1 point
  28. You should start a new thread on this, but I normally use Bosch Aerotwin wipers. I have been recommended to use Valeo ones by a few people.
    1 point
  29. This was it but where it says fails to regenerate. On the computer it said that the engine had regenerated itself and the code just needed wiping
    1 point
  30. Hi mate. Engine code was P244C. He cleared the code and its fine. Light went off and so did message
    1 point
  31. Nice mk4 the 1.6 ztech would fit in that
    1 point
  32. It's a diesel mate ill try get to a garage this morning
    1 point
  33. That's a creaky start Tom, and I should know
    1 point
  34. A wouldn’t use a race chip in my opinion thy don’t provide much or any extra hp. Not too sure on the bluefin plug in stuff but for the price you mite as well just get new cams some real power mods .
    1 point
  35. Thanks Peter, I'll try swapping the crank wheel over with the original sensor which was working (original engine had head gasket failure and low oil pressure but it did run.. I note there ar two sensors and three wheels for my car originally. I logged the forscan fuel pressure yesterday but not analysed it yet due to the p0335 code..appreciate you input.
    1 point
  36. Sounds to me like we all need to be packing all the connectors, wires and gaps around BCMs with silicone grease to prevent water ingress.
    1 point
  37. I have sorted out the issue. One of the led wasn’t connected with the board so was given a circle-cut. So happy with the results looks way better than pictures.
    1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. I think it would be a fun project and a good chance for me to learn something new ☺️ Although the puma is a very lovely and fun car, I just really love the look and shape of Fords older hatchbacks and really want to get the same power as what you'd get in a puma 😅
    1 point
  40. Thanks @zain611. Today was bit of a better day as I carried on with work as normal.
    1 point
  41. Hi @Iceman29 , I remember you from the 306 forums! The Mk3 1.6 TDCi is pretty good on fuel, 60mpg on a motorway commute should be easily doable...as long as that's 70mph, they don't have the torque to maintain higher speeds as efficiently as a 2.0 can so MPG drops off above 70. I was averaging 55mpg in mine with mixed driving. As for reliability...well... Mk3's are known for water leaks, faulty AC and dodgy electrics. 8v 1.6 TDCi is generally pretty reliable though, weak point is the piezo injectors which don't last long. Clutch and gearbox are a known weak point as well. Early ones were also mapped badly, giving a jumpy/jerky slow speed drive, which was the main reason I got rid of mine in the end. Also worth noting the cambelt will be due by now even on lower mileage (10 year interval) and the DPF might be getting full of ash depending on how it's been driven before.
    1 point
  42. Specs have changed quite frequently. That was originally the case but from around mid-2019 (I think) the subwoofer was relocated to the side of the boot, so you can have a factory spare. (Quite a few members have found ways to fit their own spares to earlier cars anyway). The factor that stops a spare being specified after the change to the subwoofer is pan roof, for weight reasons I believe, but again members have fitted their own aftermarket spares. Afaik the Active X got the B&O after the B&O Play trim was dropped, again some time in 2019 I believe. Cars with B&O should have the B&O logo on the speakers. To further complicate matters, B&O was also available as an option at times on various models, so probably the only way to be absolutely sure what's fitted on a 2018/early 2019 is to have a look at the speakers and in the boot.
    1 point
  43. b & o system has subwoofer in boot in place of spare wheel and is the upgrade with additional speakers.
    1 point
  44. Thank you very much for the advice. Glow plugs symbol does appear on the cluster when turning on the car, but I keep getting told that thats normal in the cold weather.. I will also try to check the hose near the EGR and I hope I will find the cause and the solution soon. Cheers to you kind sir
    1 point
  45. Just bought a 64 plate fiesta st with mountune
    1 point
  46. Sorry for the late reply to this one. Off hand I cant even remember how long these take dispite having done a few now lol. My advice would be make sure whoever is doing it is familiar with them, I've had one in to redo after the upper and lower belts were replaced but the housing alignment tool was not used and ultimately the crank seal failed very quickly. No change from £500 at least if its done with quality parts.
    1 point
  47. Hi it sounds like the dpf filter is blocked or its the dpf sensor
    1 point
  48. The mileage of the new instrument cluster can be changed upwards using the Ford IDS system. It is not possible to change the mileage downwards using the IDS system. The FoCCCus software can also change the mileage but only if the mileage of the new instrument cluster is below 1000 KM. Above 1000 KM it is not possible to change the mileage using the FoCCCus software. The Russian UCDS diagnostic system does also have the ability to change the mileage (both upwards and downwards). This is a paid feature of this system.
    1 point


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