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I found a £9.95 refund cheque in an unopened envelope on Tuesday. Had a pile of paperwork to sort through, file or shred from the last 6 months or so. Not even sure why I got the refund, don't think I was expecting one. Had my name and address on. Thought it was a scam but I cashed it through a banking app and it seems to have gone through!!

I do like finding £20 on our drive this afternoon! Checked with everyone in the house, not theirs 👍 I also DON'T like that Mrs Turvey reckons we should have a takeaway tea with it 🤷🙄

It has just struck me LOL I have been getting the flu vaccine for the last 20 odd years. For many, the Covid vaccine is the first they have ever received as an adult, so y'all get excited over how quick it takes. That's quite quaint...No idea what everyone expected. As a diabetic, I can inject myself in seconds, getting injected isn't a big procedure but listening to the radio today on the almighty c*ck up the EU are making of it, well, I'm glad I'm in the UK.

In and out in less than 9 minutes! 👍 15 minutes from when I parked the truck opposite the hospital until I climbed back in.

I do like ordering a few parts for a little 1:64 scale Hotwheels model project in the near future, Crazy to see they have an aftermarket modified scene through the use of 3D printers, I'm going to create two with the intention of selling one to cover the cost of both as not many people over here in Republic of Ireland know about the modifications available. Started with a Falken tyres sponsored Toyota AE86 which I got for free along with a pearl white Premium Hotwheels Real rider model of the same vehicle, this perticular model has a huge following over here and they sell for €15-€20 still in the package. I've been on eBay UK and purchased an aftermarket exhaust, Will most likely need to trim out a small section of the rear bumper to fit; alternatively cut in to the exhaust cylinder to achieve the same recessed appearance. The down side of everything; is that all aftermarket parts need to be painted, so that's a can of grey spray paint required to spray that piece, Next item were some aftermarket wheels to replicate those featured in a very popular subtitled movie available on Netflix and possibly YouTube called "Initial D" Fitting these involves drilling out both rivets on the base of the vehicle to separate the shell from the chassis then snipping both axles; slide off the existing wheels; slide on the new ones then glue the centre of the axles in to place. The next item to glue on to the boot is a duck tail spoiler for extra down force, I plan to obtain some red and amber paints to brush on the tail lights to add some more detail aswell as some silver in the headlights. Final pieces then to add some real appeal is one of these 1:64 scale 20ft shipping container to put the modified AE86 in to as though it's being shipped from Japan The shipping containers also come with a replacement clear front section: And just incase; if there is any space left within the shipping container after the installation of the vehicle, I've ordered a 1:64 scale tire rack along with some tyres. I'm looking forward to compiling all the parts and putting it together 😅 cheap enough for the level of reward and enjoyment involved in completing it. Hopefully get around €50-€60 for one complete, which should pay for itself and a small piece of my invested time.

Hi all, I want to upgrade my car's dipped beams to LED soon, and read somewhere that I need deeper dust covers to fit these lamps in my projector lights. Does anyone know what diameter these dust covers are for a 2010 Fiesta MK7? I may have read somewhere that they were 80mm but I'm not too sure. Thanks in advance! - Yari

Game changer... https://www.hyundai.co.uk/new-cars/ioniq5?dclid=COey07-Ki-8CFQfEGwod7LkOyQ

Hi welcome

Mine were the same, falling apart, absolutely rubbish, those ones have been really good, no issues

its a complex algorithm actually, it depends on driving style, weather temperature, time interval, idle time, operating conditions, fuel quality, and a lot of other inputs, ford is proud of this system so that it says that it is more accurate than other systems that depend on a sensor inside the oil pan to measure directly the oil quality. Intelligent Oil-Life Monitor™ (IOLM) (ford.com)

You cant just guess at it being the head unit at fault. You need to do a parasitic draw test using a multimeter. Then start pulling fuses 1 by 1 until the draw goes away.

When you get the PAM module, the connectors will only fit in one place. They cannot be incorrectly connected to the PAM module. If you are going for just rear sensors, then you require a rear only PAM module (ends with -A* on the part number). It wouldn't matter if you connected the front sensor connector plug as they are just open circuit wires so would not affect anything. The connectors are keyed so will not fit in the wrong place on the PAM. But from memory, I think it is the 2 x outside plugs on the PAM. The black connector is the rear sensors. The centre connector port is the front sensors. The front sensor connector will have 8 wires in. When you actually see it, you will find that you cannot get it wrong and it is safe to plug in all 3 connectors whether you have front sensors or not. The same goes for the loom in the rear bumper. The sensor connectors will only reach the correct parking sensors. You may have a couple of extra connectors in the back bumper that won't fit anything. These will be for the blind spot information system if it was ever fitted.

Yes, got the Oxford one indeed. I thought so 👍 I too have been getting the flu jab for a few years and can assure you that until this season's visit I've had to wait a lot longer than I did today.

Weirdly I'm back to normal now. Had a nap at 2:30 probably because I hoovered mine and my sister's car in the morning. Want to use my weekend to revise over the exam I failed in as weekdays I'm getting busy calling clients in the estate agent. Call some wealthy people looking for investment properties with budgets between £1 to 5 million pounds. Hopefully that helps me for when I get a mortgage advisor role in particular the high network ones. Yeah I'm thankfully better since this morning. Don't know if I just caught a chill. I would think with the different variants out there of covid it may be possible getting it again

posted on the FordAuthority web site. The Ford Saarlouis Assembly Plant in Germany, where the Ford Focus is produced, has been hit particularly hard and will now remain shut down for an additional five weeks. my dealer is ##''@@### unless.

On a vehicle with the Ford Battery Montitoring System (BMS) a battery charger must never be connected directly to the negative battery terminal. When the charger is connected directly to the negative battery terminal the BMS will not detect that the battery is being charged. As a result of this State of Charge (SoC) of the battery will be completely different from what the BMS expects. This can (and will) result in overcharging the battery which seriously affects the life expectancy of the battery. A battery charger must be connected after the BMS sensor (which is usually integrated into the negative battery terminal).

It was confirmed by Stuart Rowley (President, Ford Europe) to Automotive News Europe: https://europe.autonews.com/automakers/ford-extends-production-cuts-europe-chip-shortages You need a subscription to read the article. Afterwards the same information also showed on several other car websites: https://www.focusmania.com/productie-ford-focus-wegens-chip-tekort-verlengd-tot-het-tweede-kwartaal/

I swapped my GEM and added another loom to power all the extras the higher spec GEM supports from your pic only 3 wires (?) and they have NOTHING to do with the door locks (my basic one had 4 wires only - the later one uses nearly all of them - 12 or so used from vague memory) you'd be better off checking a wiring diagram and working out which wires actually have anything to do with the central locking.... with about 150 wires going in the gem when u thought touching that plug did something u really disturbed 20 others somewhere else. often the heater matrix goes and it pours antifreeze all over the GEM and I think in bad weather you might give it a bath with rain water if the screen drains are full of 12 years worth of leaf litter no one cleared out... One simple idea might be to disconnect the battery, remove the GEM and look for corrosion on any pins and pull and replace all fuses and relays using some contact cleaner and product designed to cope with electricals to kill corrosion (like ACF50) and remake all the connections whilst looking for damaged wires etc. FYI there is a strange procedure on the petrol ones to set up the throttle body whenever the battery has been off .... with the battery nowhere near anything, short the two battery cables (+ & -) to wipe any residual charge in capacitors for 30 seconds.... reconnect the battery.... turn off the AC, turn off the lights, turn off the heater fan.... now start the car without touching the throttle pedal let the car idle for 20 mins till full temp reached... if you don't the throttle will feel lazy and it'll be a bit slower - its some stupid calibration of the fly by wire throttle and its idle speed adjustment as it warms up

😂🤣 No I definitely have not but would like to! It’s just a version of my surname with my year of birth bolted on. Cheers for the welcome 👍🏻

*Update* So I did some tests with a multi meter yesterday from battery down to starter and found this connection in the picture was the cause of the problem. It was dirty and a little corroded so I used contact cleaner and a wire brush to clean it up and gave the terminals on the solenoid a good clean an now it's working again. Saved myself £313 for a new one from ford.

hope your getting better mate, I'm evaluating myself regularly here after the wife returned from the wedding last Thursday night, I'm expecting something to happen.

I don't like getting absolutely roasted on purchasing two hotwheels vehicles from Texas in the big US, these models cost around 25 euro over here i bought both of the above via eBay uk and provided my American AdressPal address for shipping from the seller in Texas. total purchase cost was 26.02euro almost 2 for 1 compared to purchasing locally, all seemed euphoric. until they arrived at address Pal in the big US There must be a minimum package price on American AddressPal deliveries as they were only weighing 150g and 200g but the fee from AddressPal at that stage was a staggering 15.99euro each. which i could only assume included a Customs import charge, and couldn't really do much about it as it had already been subtracted from my current account. it would later transpire that the 15.99euro each was only to cover shipping from AddressPal in America to my address in the Republic of Ireland. many days then passed, until last night when I received a further two emails from anPost on behalf of the Irish Revenue and Customs, ow yes! inhalation is immanent there's no escaping. here's the emails. a total of 18.74 euro was required to be paid to customs for the two Hotwheels vehicles, which the original purchase cost for both of them was 26.02 euro including shipping from the sellers to AdressPal in America. AdressPal had then charged a total of 31.98 euro (15.99 x 2) to ship them to Ireland, i inquired on how the customs charges were calculated; and discovered that the customs add the cost of shipping to the value of the item in order to evaluate the amount of tax due to be paid, so that means that I'm paying import tax because addressPal charged 31.98 euro shipping to get them to Ireland where the customs could then add that to the item value to enterprise on fees. overall cost from start to finish for these two cars was: initial purchase: 26.02 euro AddressPal fee's: 31.98 euro (15.99 x 2) Customs fee's: 18.74 euro Total: 76.74 euro for two vehicles that once had an RRP of: 15.00 euro each back in 2018.

Boom!! Even radio stations logos after master reset! Not bad for a mk3.5.Thanks to everyone on this thread

I found this thread as I have the same issue on my 2015 Focus. Any conclusion? I'm automotive software developer so I'll fill on some blanks. The BCM is a computer that controls a bunch of stuff on the car. Including the keys and alarm. It controls the left wiper controller via a LIN bus wire that is physically attached to and activates the left motor. Another LIN wire is connected from there to the right motor. The power that is supplied to these motors is constant. The digital signal over the LIN wire tells them what to do. In my case, the left motor/controller gets power and live data from the BCM. I used a signal analyzer to see the LIN bits. My guess is maybe the motor or it's controller are dead. This all started when I disconnect two cable assemblies from the BCM in order to more easily access the cabin filter. In hindsight I should have disconnected the battery before. I'll try a new wiper motor and see.

Hasn’t done it anymore as I took it for a blast last night and used all day today. Strange one

AHA, problem solved. Black diamond are very legitimate, have heard of venom, I think venom have an ebay store too. may go for venom then, it's a bit cheaper than the other places selling it

forgot to add a pic, my bad

also, would this clutch be okay to get from this site? dunno if they're legit or not

I also managed to get the clutch off and then all but 1 of the flywheel bolts off today, very productive day off work. I also used this spanner method to stop everything spinning

i phoned up puma speed this afternoon and they just got stock in that day and updated their site so i managed to grab one 😁😁

yep u must have a basic car... unplug the interior light will go out aside from the top left on a basic car, I wouldn't be unplugging ANY of those wires with the battery connected !!!!

Sync 3.4 was installed via USB, maps f9 was via WiFi, so it must have been something different to either of these that downloaded yesterday. Wouldn't have a clue how to find out what it was.

Try searching back through topics for the last week or so. There are literally hundreds of posts on this very same problem.

Code 3 8 does appear to be Avalon, the 3 is the colour and the 8 is the year it was introduced. Page 6 of - https://remarkpen.com/files/documents/colorCode/fordeurope.pdf also has 8CKE listed for Avalon if that's any help.

PS is the metric (German) equivalent to BHP, it's very slightly different. So a 100ps EcoBoost is actually only 99bhp... People use PS & BHP interchangeably though.

Hi welcome 🙂

HI folks So after a number of years driving German built cars, and loving it, the time came for me to grow up a bit.....so we got a German built Fordy!!! Shes a Focus ST Line X 2.0 Ecoblue Estate with an auto(told you i had to grow up a wee bit) in Desert Island Blue. Ford should really call it Drop dead gorgeous blue imho. Anyway, hope its at least as friendly and good as the 'other' forums, if you see me kicking about - give me a flash 😄 Safe driving folks 😍 Rodster

The easiest test for glowplug operation is to look for the dip in battery voltage when they come on. On my car they draw not far off the 60A limit when cold, dropping to about 20A I think, as they heat up. That gives a cold resistance of well under 1ohm per plug, which cannot really be distinguished from a dead short using a multimeter, the variation in meter cable and connector resistance will swamp the reading. My battery dropped by 1 or 2 volts when the plugs came on, recovering a bit as they heated up. Testing individual plugs will require disconnection of the linking bar / wire, or a small clamp-on current meter, a rare beast! You have not said what the symptoms are. If it is bad starting with vibration & smoke on a very cold start, one plug dead can do this, as I found.

Spray window tracks with silicone spray or dry Teflon. Silicone stays slick even in cold weather, so windows slide smoothly, lessening the wear on your window motors. Lower the window glass and shoot dry Teflon spray down the front, rear and top window channels on each door. Soak the tracks.

I think that's because the American Ford Focus didn't follow the European version until later years (2011+?), that mirror adjuster is from the MK1. https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/3734-remove-door-panel/

Hi all, This is a quite FYI for anyone out there who has a 1.4 TDCi and feels that its a bit slow or sluggish when accelerating or indeed lacks throttle response, if the car is running as it should be and is well serviced and is still a bit slow read on. At this point I would also suggest to give the MAF a quick clean if you do this mod to keep the sensor in good condition. I have had my mk6 for a couple of months now and having read some reviews about how the car can be a bit slow to accelerate and overtake I was looking at the 1.6 TDCi instead but went with the 1.4 TDCi as I know not all DV6 engines are like Lenny's. Anyway, I have been doing a few mods to the airbox to see what difference it made, I found that removing the intake snorkel did help a bit, as did removing some of the baffles inside of the airbox but I still felt that the throttle response was slightly laggy and not ideal. I had a feeling that the airbox itself was badly designed and I was right, the bottom of the airbox is quite large but all of the air has to go via a tiny slot in the lid of the airbox before going into the MAF then the turbo. Removing the airbox and fitting a filter directly to the MAF removed all the restriction - I was hoping to be able to fit a carbon canister air filter on top of the engine but there is very limited space. I believe that the airbox was a compromise for engine packaging reasons (as its fitted into various cars) meaning that the airbox is kinda of a last thought after they designed the engine so it was just made to fit the space, the space on that side is limited by the huge fuel filter. Fitting a higher flow panel filter won't do a huge amount owing to the fact that the OEM airfilter is rather large, its the actual slot in the lid that restrict the airflow rather than other parts. Here is the stock airbox, air is drawn in underneath, through the air filter, then into the lid, through a small slot, then down into a 60mm opening to the MAF Here is the small slot in the lid that the whole boosted engine has to draw air through: Over the weekend I nipped out and completely removed the airbox and fitted a small air filter - these are about £4 and are usually fitted on bikes but its just a test to see if it made any difference. I had to go with such a small filter as there are no off the shelf 35mm to 60mm hose adaptors for me to bolt directly onto the turbo although I am still tempted to go MAFless - but this would mean added complexity to sort out an oil breather. After changing to this smaller air filter the pickup is now really really good and it pulls well as the turbo spools up much better owing to the engine not being choked, I have also unplugged the 'doser valve' which is the butterfly in the inlet (just on the left of the TDCI badge). Removing this means that the intake is always open rather than being closed off to increase EGR exhaust flow. The performance does increase with the 'doser valve' still plugged in but improves further if this is unplugged (no code will show). I haven't yet blocked off the EGR but its on my to do list and will be amazed in how much extra it could improve the already good performance. To do this mod all you need is: 1 x 60mm air filter - £4 Declaration of intake mods on insurance - varies but I think mine was something like +£6 for the year Torx bits to remove the airbox and the MAF from the airbox 10mm socket to remove the boost sensor from the airbox Crosshead screwdriver to remove screws holding on intake snorkel 15 minutes Although my setup looks a bit odd, its just an initial test but I am actually quite happy with it as this mod means that the stock intake pipe is retains meaning no additional pipework is needed, just a filter onto the MAF. I cannot stress how much of a difference this has made to the car, its so much more lively and pulls well through the gears rather than having a bit of a lag/spongy throttle response. Quick note: This won't make the car into a 'TDCi-ST' but it will give a noticeable increase in throttle response, smoother power delivery and make it more fun to drive. This engine can have good gains once remapped, but even without a remap and this mod should give a good 'bang for your buck' considering the total cost to me for this mod was around £10. Here is my project thread if anyone is interested, will be posted up various mods and tweaks: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/76674-m1tchs-fiesta-mk6-14-tdci-daily-project/

Through some chrome trickery I've managed to re-upload them here