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Thanks for this post it’s really helped and pushing me closer to making the switch I must say! I had read about the Quaife differential and think if I’m going to do this I should do it properly! Just doing some more “maths” but I think all in all I’d prefer to get it and not worry about a random expensive repair bill which is the risk I run with the Volvo right now (needs almost £1k spending on it to do brakes & pads, refurb all 4 wheels and have a small dent pulled). Appreciate all the posts on this you guys have certainly helped!

Could someone give me some advice on the current issue I have with my Ford Focus. Its a bit of a story but I will keep to the facts about what I know. Purchased the car a Focus Estate Ghia Mk2 55 reg 2.0 petrol Duratec HE. The car when started from warm/hot will display the engine system fault on ignition along with EML prior to starting and once started is clearly in "limp Mode" and will remain so unless the battery is disconnected overnight. Once the battery is reconnected the following day the car drives spot on until its switched off for around ten minutes then it will display engine system fault on ignition prior to starting. it does not clear when the ignition is switch on and off so it must be driven in limp mode until the battery is disconnected overnight. The fault is almost cleared from the ECU when disconnected and the engine light is often not displayed. if the battery is left connected it will display this fault and start in limp mode so the battery needs to be disconnected overnight to erase the fault in the ECU. Early on I did not have Forscan so I thought I would make use of my RAC membership and see what they could diagnose. The below is copied from the report as emailed to me- Diagnostic Codes RAC DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM System Type: ENGINE SYSTEM TEST/VALUES Name: AODA - DURATEC-HE - 2.0L - 107 (145) DTC: P0325,Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1) DTC: P0403,Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit DTC: P0607,Control Module Performance DTC: P2110,Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited RPM DTC: P2122,Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch D Circuit Low Input DTC: P0122,Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input DTC: P0123,Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High Input DTC: P0223,Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit High Input DTC: P2135,Throttle position sensors A and B; plausibilty error I can account for the EGR codes as I had remove the plug to see if this was the cause as I had similar issue with a Zafira! The other codes are related to the problem are unaccounted for! Whilst the RAC bloke was looking around, he checked the Throttle position plug that fits into the throttle body and confirmed there was correct voltage whilst I operated the throttle pedal. He suggested a new Throttle body which I ordered and fitted but the problem persisted as above. Prior to me calling out the RAC a couple of weeks prior, I had deleted the swirl flaps and renewed the PCV hose and PCV oil seperator valve. I did not renew the inlet manifold gaskets. I carried out a dry compression test and the values were cylinder 1 210 psi, cylinder 2 210 psi, cylinder 3 210 psi and cylinder 4 180 psi- I believe this is none related and cylinder 4 is just about in the correct range compared to the others? I have also tested each ignition coil whilst running with my Peco scope and the waves are similar-not related but worth mentioning. I purchased an OBD and Forscan software and the results of my latest run is here- I have removed the PCB speedo and re-soldered the board but no difference was made. I have just fitted a new Bosch Tmap but the problem is still current as from the live data above I can see the voltage to the Tmap ranges from 0.67v to 4.15V which I believe is too low and too high respectively. I have 5V coming from PCM to the Tmap plug when the ignition is on but not running. I have cleaned four earths under the battery area and have have established continuity from the PCM plugs but had high resistance on one of the pins. I have tried to find a pinout for the PCM but they have been removed from this site. So, without me asking separate questions could someone give me some advise on what to check next and if there are any loom wiring diagrams I could have. I'm not brilliant with electronics but I am trying to rule out as much as I can before I send my PCM for testing which from experience is rarely the cause of electrical issues. My thoughts are damage may have been caused to the loom during the clutch change as surely the previous owner would not install a new clutch with this issue present or something to do with me removing the inlet manifold to delete the swirl flaps as both these jobs required various connectors to be removed? Thanks in advance for your time. Greg

Hi! I am Milan and im from the netherlands. I have been a member of the Dutch focus club for some time, but I also read a lot on this page so I only created an account I have a Ford Focus mk3 First Edition with a stage 2 tune. 215pk and 372nm.

Hi! I have a fiesta 52 plates. When I turn the ignition on there is no engine management and ABS light. What can I do to fix it?

It's for the heads up display (HUD)

It's entirely up to you how you do your wiring. If you use that 54 pin APIM connector from the donor vehicle, that looks like more work to me. You would have to solder every wire.

It doesn't matter which way around you do it. Whether you upload the APIM AsBuilt first with Forscan and then modify the BCM with Forscan. Both parts have to be done. But use FoCCCus to modify the central configuration and use Forscan to upload the APIM AsBuilt. Don't try to use Forscan to modify the central configuration as it is done completely differently than the instructions. Follow the guide exactly as it is written.

Hi welcome ☺️

I get the following warning message: CAUTION: Measurement of bearing clearance is not possible by normal methods and should not be attempted, as this will result in damage to the cylinder block and crankshaft. If bearing bolts have been loosened the entire cylinder block and crankshaft must be replaced.

Ford considers the bottom end to be unserviceable. Both technical information or internal parts of the bottom end are not available from ford. These bolts are TTY (Torque To Yield) and require a very specific torque and angle. The manufacturer or seller of the bolts should specify the recommended torque / angle values.

I do not know about the USB cables, I just replaced mine and didn't even attempt getting the existing ones working. You can only try and see. Whenever you read or write to the BCM or IPC, you will always get lots of errors and the dash will go funny and make noises and flash. It will do the same whether you use FoCCCus or Forscan. I would use FoCCCus for the initial programming as that is what the instructions have been created with and it has been tested to work. Forscan can do it but everything will be in a different place any many items are worded differently. You could accidentally change the wrong parameters. Do everything as per the programming instructions. If you do it differently, then if it goes wrong, no one on here will be able to help you easily.

It was easy enough apart from having to disconnect the top radiator hose as I just could not slide the old fan out. The rad hose is 38mm diameter so I made a plug with my 3d printer to stop the block side draining whilst doing the job.

Yeah I will be cheers

Hi, my mk3 focus titanium x is having intermittent issues. Firstly, it sometimes won't start with no dashboard lights as though it has no power. After 10 mins it starts first push of the button. Secondly, it sometimes displays ' hill start assist' and 'active city stop' not available. are these issues related and what's the fix?

Good evening dikijohn! In my opinion you will have to check out your battery's voltage first. If your battery is healthy you must enter a diagnose tool to the OBD slot in order to check further for ecu faults. But i think that there is a battery problem by 60% because low voltage make sometimes these faults showing up. Check your battery first. Greetings from cloudy Greece!!!

Not a bad idea, might have to try that on my next venture. Let's hope no one comes behind me while I'm looking, or I'll look like a bit of a weirdo with my measuring tape at the bottom of the ramp 😆

All the (midsized) new cars I've looked at recently have auto city stop under various names. Just the Golfs and Focus's alone must make up a notable percentage... If the amount of rear end impacts hasn't increased at the same rate as the amount of cars on the road, surely that suggests it must be working.

Agree 100%- the night mode looks gorgeous and is on permanently on mine now, too.

The plug that used to plug in to your original screen (FCDIM) is left unused when you go to Sync2. Other than the wires you splice in to (as per the wiring spreadsheet in the first post of this thread), just tie the plug up behind the panel. I put electrical tape over mine. The other wires in the plug are not used and just left.

I work in IT so the nerdy part of me quite likes the idea of a touchscreen that does everything. The realistic IT part of me knows that everything should be a mechanical button or dial!

No - I gave up trying, especially when work said they wouldn’t charge to replace it 😃

Mk4 Mondeo's do not have EPBs or a auto hold light. They do have Hill Start Assist though. I have never seen it as a problem - as soon as you release any pressure off the brake pedal the clutch (powershift models) is "on/in" and in that milli second your foot is on the throttle

Annoyingly, mine was just out of range. That said, I still would only have been taken as far as 3.0 by Ford, so...

I installed this the other day . Think its miles better than previous sync version. Not been out of night mode either miles better the deep blue colour👍

Better to pay the £345 for the gearbox service than have a bill for £1600 for a replacement clutch which was still under warranty that I got with my car when I bought it all because someone missed a oil and filter change. From the clutch replacement to the 3 year interval the car only did 13000 miles but still had the oil and filter done , better safe than sorry.

If it weren’t for my car connecting with my wifi outside my house I’d have gone down the same route. Anyway BlueMike ...I’m Blue Alex in Glasgow! 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇬🇧🏆🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇬🇧

At home on the road where its parked. We have it done once a month by a mobile wash / detailed on top of my weekly wash. He texts us when he turns up, washes the car and leaves it looking like new. He sends another text when he wants the car unlocking so he can do the door sills and boot and under the bonnet ( paintwork only). Sends a text when he's ready to go so I can lock the car up. Gets paid via bank transfer. All the car wash facilities are closed here too so how else do you keep your car road legal and clean ?

The lowering values that Eibach specifies are based on the standard suspension. The ST-Line has the sport suspension which is already 10 mm lower than the standard suspension. If Eibach specifies a 30 mm drop it will only be 20 mm on a car that has the sport suspension.

Yeah, considered that, but honestly, this will do me now for a long time to come and anything new can likely be done via the same means anyway. Been out this PM trying it all out, and really like the new UI and everything else. Grateful for the help here, though.

🤦 On a good note finally washed the car. Forgot how good the wheels look.

if these pipes are so important why are they held on with ***** clips ?they don’t look very strong

Well now I feel old!! I remember people having to carry their iPod AND their Motorola RAZR at school...

Thanks Trevor, yes I am, it’s got full services history including a box service every 30k or 3 years. Just had it done at £345 😩 my mechanic said the oil was nice and clean when it came out so hopefully good for many miles! I hear they are pretty reliable if well maintained?!?!?

Glad to help. The info is straight out of the manufacturers manual. It is not a manual on How To Strip and Rebuild, it is How the Trans Works. Trust you are aware it is most important to have transmission oil and filter changed every 37,500 miles or 3 years, whichever occurs first.

Absolutely no need to take it out of D. I have a 100 odd page document from Getrag and it describes why you don't need to and how the trans works. When your foot is on the brake, throttle position at zero, and the speedo is at zero the trans automatically goes into "neutral" mode, there is no drive etc. Here is an extract out of the manual Neutral control This is a function that is activated when the driver stops and the vehicle is stationary, e.g., at a red light. The TCM disengages the clutches. The function reduces both fuel consumption and vibrations. When the driver releases the brake, the clutch torque increases on the clutch for which the gear is engaged, and drive increases. The following conditions must be met in order for the neutral function to activate: · gear lever in D or R. · throttle position 0% · brake pedal pressed down. · speed 0 km/h.

I never knocked mine out of gear at the lights unless I was going to be sat for anything over 1 minute. As long as the box is serviced at the recommended intervals then it will be fine.

Right. Let's start again. Most countries/markets only have a filter of sorts that's part of the fuel tank senderunit/pump which is INSIDE the tank. Not replaceable . The filter part of this tank unit is a course filter unlike an external one. Now some markets/countries that have issues with dirty fuel may have an EXTERNAL filter that is replaceable. I don't know what countries they could be , could be your , could be not. Only way to find out is to look for an EXTERNAL filter Here is an image I googled and gives some idea where an external filter may be. So it may be at the rear of the tank on the right side

In some markets where there is a fuel filter, it is external to the fuel tank. I will see if I can find an image so you can see what to look for.

Yep, that's snapped! Here's the part you need - but as I say I'd try for warranty first. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Genuine-Ford-Clutch-Spring-1463580/dp/B0146Y6F4A/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=focus+clutch+pedal+spring&qid=1615060883&quartzVehicle=36-513&replacementKeywords=clutch+pedal+spring&sr=8-2

How bad is your fuel?

Ginge, you’ll probably hear some critics about ecoboost engines. But if I’m honest, the 2013 models had an overheating issue but it wasn’t the engine itself, it was a faulty pipe which leaked the coolant. But as you said you’re looking at a 2017 model so you will be fine. I had a 2016 model on a 66 plate and was a brilliant car for me 👍🏼 Was sad to see it go.

Well, well, hello to you, the Mk8 fiesta is the same length as the original focus, the ST models are almost too good inside for a hot hatch. The ride is a bit harsh for some brit roads, potholes are a pain, which of course is those low profile tyres, because it does speed bumps just fine. The three cyl engine is a gem, because the bore and stroke of each cylinder is bigger than the outgoing 1600 4cyl model, you get more torque, like a small diesel, it's a joy round town, work run, shopping, but the exhaust drones a bit on motorway runs. Obviously quick enough to get you in trouble, I've done 125 a few times, but the local lumpy roads get it "dancing" around, Mine costs me 360 quid fully comp with protected no claims, Churchill, (oh-yess), and despite intermittent hooligan driving, returns between 38 and 40 mpg. You need the performance pack, just for the quaife diff, the rest of the pack is not impressive sadly. You say your not a youngster ?, so you get three level heated seats and a heated steering wheel, lovely !! The B & O sound system robs the spare wheel space to give you a sub-woofer, I carry a full size matching spare in the back. Presently on pirrelli winter tyres, they, and the lsd (not drugs, might try) make a good effort in the snow. Mines got lane departure wotsit plus other stuff I turn off, brakes are good, not outstanding. Folding door mirrors are in the 'city pack', I went to this car from an Audi Q3 quattro as my future retirement car, I'm seventy in a number of weeks but still working for at least another year, hope this helps.

Good man, at least it wasn't a massively expensive fix and fair play for posting back with a root cause as it might help someone else out someday.

i found the electrical short! It's the Rain Sensor. It was screws into the roof of the car. This screw hit the sensor wire... Thx a lot for the support! Thx

Just came across these pics of the PJB with connector locations marked up. Off a Russian site (drive2.ru), but it looks to be sensible. 1st pic is the Mk2a version (post 2008 approx), 2nd is the Mk2 version (2005 to 2008 approx).