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Before even considering this you should be aware that the whole process involves a serious amount of money. The total costs to get everything up and running perfectly can easily be multiple times the value of the car. A 2.5 ST conversion will be both cheaper and results in more power. A complete totalled/scrap Focus ST with running engine can be found for low prices these days. In case of a supercharger or turbocharger setup you need to consider the following things: * Custom build intake manifold which is capable to handle the pressure. The stock plastic intake manifold is not strong enough for this and will split. (Both supercharger and turbocharger). * The size of the supercharger can be a problem. A decent supercharger setup usually takes quite some space. I doubt there is enough space unless you get rid of the airconditioning system. (supercharger) * You will need an intercooler. You can use the intercooler of an existing engine type (for example TDCI or 2.5 ST) but this also requires modifications. (Both supercharger and turbocharger). * All pipes and hoses to connect all parts need to be custom made. (Both supercharger and turbocharger). * A custom made exhaust manifold is needed. (turbocharger). Next to the supercharger/turbocharger setup itself you should also look at the engine itself. It is recommended to perform an engine rebuild using uprated engine internals that are capable to handle the extra power (stock internals are only capable to handle low boost values). You should also lower the compression ratio and upgrade the fuel system (pump, pressure regulator, injectors, etc.). The biggest point of concern will be the software. After installing a supercharger or turbocharger you need full custom designed software. The development and testing of this software can take a lot of time and money. Be prepared to spend thousands of Pounds on software alone. Writing and testing the software on a dyno can take several days or even weeks. In case of a turbocharger setup installing a 1.6 ECOboost engine will be the easiest option. The 1.6 ECOboost is also based on the Sigma engine family. Why would you develop a full custom turbocharger setup yourself if Ford already did that. However installing a 1.6 ECOboost in a Focus MK2 also needs a lot of modifications to make it fit and run correctly. In case of a supercharger quite some calculations are required to select the correct supercharger. The capacity of a supercharger needs to be matched perfectly to the displacement of the engine. If the capacity of the supercharger is too low or too big the engine will never perform as it should or fail prematurely. Apart from this the supercharger needs to be properly driven by the engine. This requires a properly designed belt drive system with the correct (calculated) drive ratio. Also be aware that a supercharger can generate a lot of power but driving the supercharger also requires quite a lot of power from the engine. A significant part of the power gain will be needed to drive the supercharger. Below an example to (theoretically) calculate the correct supercharger and drive ratio based on the budget friendly 0,5 Liter Aisin AMR500 supercharger: Max RPM X Engine displacement = Theoretical required amount of air of the NA engine (6450 X 1.6 = 10320 Liters per Minute) This result needs to be divided by 2 because it is a 4-stroke engine. (10320 ÷ 2 = 5160 Liter per Minute) Desired boost + Atmospheric pressure ÷ Atmospheric pressure = Boost ratio (6 PSI + 14.7 PSI = 20,7 PSI) (20,7 PSI / 14.7 PSI = 1.4 Boost ratio) Theoretical required amount of air of the NA engine x Boost ratio = Required amount of air under boost. (5160 x 1.4 = 7224 Liter per minute) Required amount of air under boost ÷ Capacity of the supercharger per revolution (in Liter) = Supercharger speed at 6450 RPM engine speed. (7224 ÷ 0.5 = 14448 RPM) The Aisin AMR500 supercharger has a maximum permissible continuous speed of 16000 RPM. At 6 PSI boost the calculated RPM is within the maximum permissible RPM range of the supercharger. This theoretically means that the Aisin AMR500 supercharger needs a 1 : 2.24 drive ratio (1 revolution of the crankshaft is 2,24 revolutions of the supercharger) to generate 6 PSI boost on a 1.6 Duratec engine. The major downside of a supercharger is that it generates a lot of heat and is very noisy. The higher the RPM of the supercharger the higher the temperature of the compressed air. At higher supercharger speeds a major intercooler is required to cool the compressed air before it is forced into the engine. Note that these are just theoretical calculations for reference only. In real life the values can be different.

My Focus is currently running Sync 3.4.21020 and radio logo file 1U5T-14G658-AF. Here is the current list of stations without logos for me. DAB HITS RADIO UK, Magic Chilled, Magic Musicals, Capital UK, Heart 80s, KISSTORY, Gold UK, Smooth Chill, Capital Dance, BBC Radio 5 Live, Planet Rock, Absolute Rad 80s, Sunrise Radio UK, BFBS UK, Union JACK Dance, talkRADIO, Union JACK Rock, Boom Radio UK, Absolute Rad 70s. FM PURE. On FM some of the stations are missing their logo on one frequency but have it on an alternative frequency. This isn’t an exhaustive list but hopefully it helps anyone wondering about their radio logos. Fingers crossed Ford add more to the next logo file whenever that may be.

There is a 30 min tribute program to Sabine on iPlayer after tonight's Top Gear at 9pm. It will also be broadcast at 7:30pm on BBC One on Wednesday, April 7th. https://www.topgear.com/car-news/top-gear-tv/weekend-tg-pays-tribute-sabine-schmitz-30-min-special

Just updated here too via Google playstore and all back working as it should 👍

Since a 60 plate was used from 01-09-2010 up to 26-02-2011 it is perfectly possible for a very early MK3 to have a 60 plate. Especially the very early examples that were used by national Ford organisations for commercial/advertising purposes and introduction to the media do often have a very early registration. The Focus from the picture above with license number EK60XKJ was produced on 29-01-2011 and licensed on 04-02-2011

This evening updated FordPass to 3.19.0 ... all working fine now.

Safer update to with the engine running either on driveway or driving around. Ignition alone may auto shutoff during the update.

Hi Colin, I've been using the Pro app since last October. Another benifit is that as soon as you open the app it tells you the status of the cars locking, ie. Locked or UnLocked. If you remember the standard Ford Pass used to do this but it became so unreliable that they simply took it off the app. Back in October I had long on line chats with the Ford Apps people when I had big problems with stuff not working as it should. What was the big surprise is that it is two diffrent software development teams (in two diffrent countries i think) and they have almost nothing to do with each other !! I got loads of help from the Ford Pass Pro guys and eventually got things working like the remote start. The standard Ford Pass team were still saying not their fault take the car to the Ford Dealer.

I started using the Ford Pass Pro app after @MarkRS9 recommendation. Vehicle Location showing up fine and as an unexpected bonus Guard Mode showed up for the first time today.

Hi all, I just joined the club, I own a 2017 focus st line diesel, 2020 puma st line x, my son has a 2011 fiesta zetec S tdci and my daughter has a 2008 fiesta zetec climate, also im a ford tech for a dealer here in South Wales

Sounds like your recirc flap doesn't know it's end point so keeps trying to move past it. As above, I'd just leave it switched off, could be a pain to repair buried deep behibd the dash.

The material Faraday pouches won't last forever in a pocket tbh. They're getting constantly abraded while you're walking around. Glad mine has sleepy keys!!

Unlimited free car wash (exterior only) was a Ford offer (at least it was in the Netherlands) for all Vignale owners. In the Netherlands the unlimited free car wash was discontinued some time ago just like most other benefits that Vignale owners had.

There was an update on iOS my app works fine

It's probably a debatable point as although maintaining the Sync3 software is Fords responsibility they are quite clear that updating the Maps software is the customers responsibility.

If your router is that old then that could well be limiting your speed now if you've got a better connection with FTTC/VDSL. This is from Wikipedia but it gives you a run down of the Wi-Fi standards and speeds over the years. If your router is at least 10 years old then you are possible running on Wi-Fi 4 (or N as it used to be called). The improvements in the standards over the years have helped with multiple connections etc. not just speeds so you might be better off seeing if your ISP can replace (for free if you've just extended your contract - don't pay if they say you need to) your current router with a newer model. You can always put the old one back in if you prefer. Generation/IEEE Standard Maximum Linkrate Adopted Frequency Wi‑Fi 6E (802.11ax) 600 to 9608 Mbit/s 2019 6 GHz Wi‑Fi 6 (802.11ax) 600 to 9608 Mbit/s 2019 2.4/5 GHz Wi‑Fi 5 (802.11ac) 433 to 6933 Mbit/s 2014 5 GHz Wi‑Fi 4 (802.11n) 72 to 600 Mbit/s 2008 2.4/5 GHz 802.11g 6 to 54 Mbit/s 2003 2.4 GHz 802.11a 6 to 54 Mbit/s 1999 5 GHz 802.11b 1 to 11 Mbit/s 1999 2.4 GHz 802.11 1 to 2 Mbit/s 1997 2.4 GHz

I seriously hope these are more reliable than sync 3... And that annoying pop ups don't keep coming up about location data. Think I e found the same one as Curry's on Richer Sounds so have asked if they'll price match. 6 year warranty with them too...though I'm hoping not to need that.

***** Hell Tom thats going to be one hell of an upgrade to your Sync3, you need a wall bracket to fit that on the dash or are you mounting it direct on the bonnet? 🤣 Currys = poor after sales service, what ever goes wrong it is always your fault. John Lewis = Free 5 year guarantee with out any hassle even if the screen fails at 4 years 11 months

There is always the fingers crossed approch. Due to the mileage and the fact the wetbelts are in need of change the value of your car is probably about £2800 to £3000. Now you have to consider spending about £1000 on getting the belts changed, with no guarantee that something else major won't fail in a couple of months. You could just leave things as they are, as you say the mileage you do now is very little so the car could last another 12 months by which time you could part-ex it and get about £1600 plus you would still have the £1000 that you didn't spend on getting the belts changed. Just a thought?

Glad all sorted, enjoy the rest of Easter !

I wouldnt put any faith into a car dealership washing your car. Hardly going going to take the time and effort to do it properly and could be more trouble than it's worth if washed incorrectly.

Could've sworn I'd seen Mk3's on a 60 plate, guess not then!

2010 must be a MK2.5 (MK2 facelift). The production of the Focus MK3 officially started at 01-03-2011 for pre-orders and dealer stock vehicles. The official launch date of the Focus MK3 was 02-03-2011

Replacing the wetbelts on a 1.0 ECOboost engine is a pretty labour intensive job. Especially on a smaller car like the Fiesta with limited working space. £1100 may seem a lot of money but is fully justified by the major amount of work and the large amount of (expensive) special tools that are required to perform this job. If the car still suits you and is in good technical condition I do not see any reason to not change the wetbelts. If you do decide to sell the car you have to take into account that the fact that the wetbelts are due to be changed will seriously affect the value of the car.

Thanks all, I have a front facing cam (cheap argos tat). I'll try this in the back and see how the image looks and go from there. Once I've tried it I'll post up on here with the results.

New ones are £6

Hi Colin, if I get chance later today I will get a list of what logos I have or should I say what I'm missing. There is one very odd thing I've noticed, if I have the screen set just showing the radio only then the logo for 'Smooth NE' is missing, but if I change the screen split display by pressing the home button then I get the small map on the left and the radio screen on the right and as if by magic the Smooth logo appears. Go back to full screen radio and the logo vanishes. The only thing I can think is there is more than one logo file.

Brilliant and thanks for the images.

On the 1.0 ECOboost engine oil inside the spark plug wells is usually caused by a defective cam cover gasket or a cracked cam cover. In your case the gasket is already replaced and can considered to be OK. However did you also inspect the cam cover for cracks? On a 1.0 ECOboost engine a cracked cam cover is quite common. Since in most cases the cracks are very small (microcracks) it can be very difficult to diagnose. You should also check the cylinder head thoroughly for (micro)cracks. On the 1.0 ECOboost a defective head gasket is usually the result of overheating (which is unfortunately quite common). Overheating of the 1.0 ECOboost engine can also cause the cylinder head to crack and cause an oil leak. I have both seen and read about this multiple times. There is no way that the oil comes from below and enters the spark plug wells through the spark plug threads. First the spark plugs directly enter the cylinder where there are no significant amounts of oil (otherwise the engine will burn a lot of oil) and second the spark plug threads and conical seat form an air and liquid tight seal. If the oil comes from below there must be a crack in the cylinder head between the spark plug wells and an oil channel.

Also noticed today I got a diversion route on my maps a yellow line on the map! Never had this before updating to f10

Ooo an automatic as well, yeah I wouldn't be surprised if it's gone through another battery. If you can't find any sort of drain on it and you keep having weird electrical issues then I'd look at changing that first

Well I'd start by finding out where the leak is coming from lol. Is the drip coming from the expansion tank itself?

If you used Cyanlabs reformat it should only take around 55 minutes so it does sound like it ran twice. I’m still missing one or two logos but not on the more popular stations. You can check which logo file you have installed from your SyncMyRide folder. If one of the files includes 1U5T-14G658-AF in the filename then you are on the latest DAB logo version. You can also check all the file versions from the Sync diagnostic menu in the vehicle. To access this menu: In car engine running. Radio on, audio tab fullscreen. Press and hold skip forward button on dash and skip forward button on steering wheel at the same time for about four seconds. Diagnostic mode starts with a speaker test, you can let it run or press end test. From there you can select Bezel Diagnostics > APIM > IVSU Versions and you’ll end up on this screen. Here’s how mine looks now This shows which package versions are installed 1. Sync App 2. Sync Voice 3. Gracenotes 4. Maps 5. Nav Voice 6. DAB logos Glad you got maps updated in the end.

Hello Thomas, welcome to the forum. The problem may not have been your car. About 4 years ago myself and a number of my neighbours would randomly find our car keys would not operate. The problem in the end was a nearby wireless door bell with a battery that was going flat. The door bell was transmitting over the top of the car keys and blocking them even when the door bell was not being pressed.

@EsmitaFord I eventually got an answer from Ford and it seems like our car's are fitted with Sync 2.5 which is a reduced feature version of Sync 3 (runs on cheaper hardware) and so uses the Phone's voice assistant. Like you I am very disappointed with it too as it just doesn't work right unlike Sync 3. Like you mine also complains that the phone needs to be unlocked when in fact it doesn't because I can make calls from the touch screen by selecting Phone and replying to a received call. If you had to take your phone out and unlock it that would defeat the whole point of hands free! Very disappointed with Ford as this is needless penny saving when they have an existing Sync system developed that works well.

The offending regs are UNECE regulations R94 and R95, with full compliance by manufacturers being required by mid 2015. Extract of an article from 2014 I guess Ford couldn't be bothered to go to the extent of implementing and certifying the mechanical release system and so just disabled the auto-lock by default!.

Seen a few 1 litre ecoboosts leak oil from the headgasket, but I'd expect low compression and burning oil. If it's clean oil then I wouldn't have thought it's coming from below the plug. When you resealed the cam cover did you make sure it was all clean and dry, if there's a drop of oil left on the mating surfaces then the sealer won't bond.

I saw a Mustang Bullitt today. Sounded wonderful. I also saw a Vauxhall Nova stranded in the middle of the road missing a wheel. It hadn't been in a crash, I think it had just fallen off

Do like getting some meatier brakes to fit on the car. Got focus ST170 front calipers to fit 300mm discs on the fiesta. Got them for a cheap price though hope they are all good. Will clean them up and spray them.

is derby "across the universe" theres klingon's on the starboard bow.

Boldly going forward 'cause we can't find reverse? Not going Star Trekkin' are you?😀

ive got the misfortune of having to drive a honda jazz with cvt transmission tommorow 90 miles!!! and car only goes forward. no reverse! thats why ive been volunteered to fetch it and see if i can repair or fit a 2nd hand transmission. partners mothers car so i got no choice in the matter really. im sure im getting covid symptoms this afternoon🤧🤒😷

Update bracket on knocking no more. bit fiddly to put on job done 😁

I bought the Ford rivets for the Fiesta rear bumper, as they are black with a black washer to protect the plastic bumper, and they were difficult, and I ended up borrowing a "lazy tongs" to finally fit them. I think they were steel. I had the bumper off to fit reversing sensors. A good place to look for info on sizes on fixtures it the Ford Catcar pages. You can drill down through all the models, then the parts, then find the item you want, and it will tell you the sizes. The Diagrams can also help when trying to take something to pieces ! Ford - Catcar.info

Got the logos update to work this time thanks for everyone help

I'm still using it on my desktop PC. Even though I've been using Windows 10 on a laptop for a couple of years I still prefer Windows 7. I hate Windows 10 with a passion Micro$oft is still supporting MSE on W7 so with that, the firewall and some strong passwords I hope to keep using it for a long time yet.

Sorry @DaveG1975 I didn’t notice the folder name. Thanks @alexp999 for pointing that out.

It should say SyncMyRide, not SynnMyRide, that's probably causing the LST error (i.e it can't find the file listed in the autoinstall.LST file)

You're not unzipping all the files are you? On the memory stick you should only see 2 files and one folder (full of self extracting cab files). Also ensure the memory stick is formatted to exfat and put the files on the stick as root files and not in any other folder. Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)

*Following on from this thread - I'm not sure if this was a REAL fix, but they do work, where they didn't before. To remove the headlamp washer jets, you DONT need to take the whole bumper off, just remove the xenon light fittings. When the lights are out, gently pull the washer heads forward with the help of the clipped on bumper covers. CAREFULLY unclip them and let them retract \ push them back in. From inside the bumper, the washers are held onto the bumper with a large plastic bracket, give this a wiggle and push down and inwards towards the engine bay, they should easily slide out. The washer jet hose is then held on with a small plastic clip at the 90' join. Use a small flat screwdriver and gently prise it out but NOT OFF... don't let it slip off. The washer jet will now pull away from the hose. The drivers side is a bugger as its a lot shorter with much less space to move around. The large plastic bumper mounting does come off and the washer jet itself seems to be a universal type, but I couldn't see a part number on it. Taking the mount off was how I accidentally noticed the "possible" fix for the washers not retracting into the bumper. When giving it a wiggle and blast with hot water, a significant amount of crud came out from where the yellow circle on the image is. I'm not in way sure how the jet works, but the hose mount part does turn separately to the piston and the part held by the bumper mount. (So 3x separate moving parts) So it could be a case of a pressure release valve or similar? Before removing the dirt and debris, even after cleaning, pulling, pushing, the piston end it was slow to retract, if it did at all, but since cleaning all that crud away it shoots back in with no drag. To confirm the fix, I partly installed the washer through the bumper and connected the loom to the lights and tested them out. They now work perfectly. Refitting is a reversal of taking them out.