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Finally got round to doing my online mot annual assessment this afternoon. I'm the only one at work to pass it first time. I What's app them with the good result. 😂😂😂😂 Means I can carry on doing mot tests a bit longer not that I do many now( probably only 15 a year) Bad news is there's a new annual assessment due soon for the 2021-2022 year. Probably leave that to the last moment too.

Do like getting my university course certificate finally. With how the world is at the moment it's proving difficult to get a job.

Follow up- Updated my app and location back on.

Me too! I'm gutted my LX only has one exhaust outlet LOL 🤣 Still, it saved me an additional £12 - every cloud eh?

I'm jealous it seriously annoys me why they only done one side on mines

It's normal in a Ford focus nothing to worry about.

The switch is integrated into the lock mechanism. Inside the lock mechanism there is a microswitch that is operated by the lock mechanism. It is a well known problem that during time the grease inside the lock hardens. The hardened grease prevents the microswitch from switching. If this is the case the problem can easily be solved by disassembling the lock mechanism, Removing the old/hardened grease and regreasing the lock mechanism using a thin, non hardening and temperature resistant grease.

Showing your age there buddy, that advert is from 1982, remember it well LOL

If its 6000 cd possibly below and full PDF attached. 489471257_Audioguide(1).pdf

Just took my 2017 Mk3.5 from Sync 3.0/F9 all the way up to 3.4/F10 (went to latest 3.4.21020) with the CyanLabs tool. Fantastically easy, and worked without a hitch. Sync feels a bit more responsive now - no idea why Ford don't make it available to all if it has performance improvements like this! Looks great too compared to the old 3.0 interface. I didn't need to flash APIM either to get the DAB logos which is a relief as the process looks a bit involved (and risky!).

Congratulations mate 👏🏻 I absolutely agree, I've been deprived promotion because I don't have a degree certificate of any description; I've nineteen years experience in the manufacture of pharmaceuticals & API's, I've saved the current company €68k per annum in cost saving projects, i can even create process flow animated GIF's for integration in to power point presentations for training purposes; i can save the company money, improve processes, aside from work; I've over twenty guides on this forum 😅 I can even sing Elvis man however I don't have a degree certificate in anything, Full List Lenny's Guides - General Ford Related Discussions - Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums so they took in a guy with zero experience but has a degree in computers and well he's now my boss 😂 so I'm a chemical process operator for life, in more ways now than just the one's I help to save or prolong.

I suppose if you want to be particular about any reactions to the antivac I guess I could say that I felt a bit warmer than usual for about 12 hours after each jab but it wasn't unpleasant and certainly didn't bother me. It was more like the sensation of standing in sunshine on a cold day and enjoying the extra bit of unexected heat. Like having a readybrek glow 😄

Got a shiny trim for my LX too, was a massive £12 on Ebay LOL

A ring board might help with the rebuilding 😂 Reminds me of the show "money for nothing"

Got a set of these, £35 from eBay. Outer diameter 92mm, inner 88mm. I think they improve the look of the back end quite a bit 😎

Hi from Scotland. new to the forums but not to Ford. always had fords since 1999 when I owned a puma in melons blue. then an Orion then a focus then onto a fiesta ecoboost in gun metal grey. Now a proud owner of a puma st in mean green. my dream car has to be the Ford escort rs cosworth Love most motorsports especially wrc and trying to play it on ps5.

Yes Focue is right, it's just normal for a Focus. My clutch pedal was so high they didn't fit it 😉

Could be something inside door vibrating there were a number of issues on the Focus4 with some of the door modules causing noise because of poor fixings.Take it back

cheers, well i've gone and got the fuses + relay. just waiting on the windscreen and install it. can't wait tbh

I have a 2016 focus n what the sat nav feature as mine says information is anyone able to do this for me cheers think its the sync 2 touch screen

@iantt dad has done a few things to the Citroen C1 we bought and thought it might give you ideas for your daughter's 107 she has. We added a glovebox lid and an armrest which I'll try and get pictures of 👍

I’m not sure on the brakes, is it my eyes but them discs look odd, maybe it’s just the picture but looks like indent lines in them 🤔

If there is still some structure to it they may be able to Weld it. If not it comes in one piece from the cat back or you can get one custom made. Also you may be able to hold it together for a while with one of These.

Thought I should reply as it saved a mechanically sound Focus Titanium from the scrap yard. Was getting intermittent communication faults, then all modules failure. This went away when I soldered the cluster. Few months back replaced failed LCD on the cluster and checked the solder joints. Had seen talk of failed joint on various forums so was curious to check mine out. Could not see any obvious dry joints. And now jerking the wire at the back did not cause faults to pop up. This falsely made me think cluster is fine. Cleaned c90, all fuses and relays but it still came back. Issue only popped up mid journey with the engine hot and would go away when the engine was left alone for a few hours. To me this seemed like a joint somewhere disconnects when heated. Resistance was 120 with just c90 removed and 60 with everything connected. I never managed to measure resistance when communications failed. This was partly because it always failed at really inconvenient times. Decided to resolder the cluster, but I was skeptical as visually the joints looked fine. Held the iron for atleast 5 seconds and physically vibrated the pin with molten solder. Now this maked sense as the PCB is multilayered and a good looking top joint doesn't mean the bottom layers are fine. Have driven for over 200 miles since and have not seen the coms issue!

Yea thought not, I'll just ignore the Ford website from now on! 😆

The garage she initially took it to estimated £1700 to fix but could be more. I'm hoping a few clutch plates, gasket and oil will fix it for £170 tops. Obviously family rates for labour£0

Hi everyone. I have a mk2 focus that has had a clutch and flywheel change and now won't start. It turns over 3 times then stops then repeat, repeat and again repeat with no avail. I'm baffled . Any help is always appreciated . Just to add its had a solid flywheel instead of a dual mass unit .

Sounds totally normal to me, my 1.6 unit sounds exactly like that when it's cold. Should be barely audible once it's warm.

@BigLen thanks Lenny and not great to hear what you said. Everything happens for a reason. My dad has been working in TFL for over 20 years now and was applying for managerial positions a few years back. He got into the interview stage a few times but never got the job. Recently he heard that managers were worried about their security of their positions so it's like God didn't let him the job because of this. Funnily enough he told me they had an apprentice manager job and that graduates with a degree can get into that. He did manage to get a train instructor position which is slightly more pay than the train driver position he was on for all these years and my dad has no degree. What I meant to say in my original comment was it's proving hard to get a job due to covid. The biomedical scientist career I was wanting to get into there's barely any trainee positions coming out. I'm happy at least I'm doing the mortgage advisor course which hopefully I can find a trainee mortgage advisor role when I have the first part of that course passed. Still waiting for that job offer I got in my local hospital. If I get that and start working I can at least start saving my money.

Tbf, I have liked the keyless entry...means I don't have to keep sanitizing my key everytime I get home!

Yes that's right Tom. Might be contemplating to switch off the keyless entry and go back to "Shudder" pressing a button on the fob ....oòooohhh my poorly sore fingers 🤣

The original Focus MK3 heated windscreen relay has the following specifications: 4 Blade Terminal, 70 AMP, Mini, Power, Tyco From: 03-01-2011 With Heated Windscreen Finis number: 1425754 Part number: 5M5T-14B192-EA This is not a timer relay. Heated windscreen timer relays were used on older Ford models like for example the Ford Escort MK6/MK7. On modern Ford models the timer functionality is electronically controlled. In case of the Focus MK3 the heated windscreen and rear screen timer functionality is fully controlled by the BCM.

Thanks, yes just updated to 3.19.0 and now all working. 👍

The front sequential lights are the adaptive lights. Ford don’t do rear ones and I’m not aware of any third party which does.

I've had both doses now with no adverse symptoms whatsoever.

The material Faraday pouches won't last forever in a pocket tbh. They're getting constantly abraded while you're walking around. Glad mine has sleepy keys!!

Many pieces that you can find easilly (second hand) as you live in Great Britain. See the pictures ...you will need the screen, the mounting bracket, the bigger trim cover and of course the camera with the trim pieces (if you put the factory camera). And don't forget the cables... It is a big job to do.

Before even considering this you should be aware that the whole process involves a serious amount of money. The total costs to get everything up and running perfectly can easily be multiple times the value of the car. A 2.5 ST conversion will be both cheaper and results in more power. A complete totalled/scrap Focus ST with running engine can be found for low prices these days. In case of a supercharger or turbocharger setup you need to consider the following things: * Custom build intake manifold which is capable to handle the pressure. The stock plastic intake manifold is not strong enough for this and will split. (Both supercharger and turbocharger). * The size of the supercharger can be a problem. A decent supercharger setup usually takes quite some space. I doubt there is enough space unless you get rid of the airconditioning system. (supercharger) * You will need an intercooler. You can use the intercooler of an existing engine type (for example TDCI or 2.5 ST) but this also requires modifications. (Both supercharger and turbocharger). * All pipes and hoses to connect all parts need to be custom made. (Both supercharger and turbocharger). * A custom made exhaust manifold is needed. (turbocharger). Next to the supercharger/turbocharger setup itself you should also look at the engine itself. It is recommended to perform an engine rebuild using uprated engine internals that are capable to handle the extra power (stock internals are only capable to handle low boost values). You should also lower the compression ratio and upgrade the fuel system (pump, pressure regulator, injectors, etc.). The biggest point of concern will be the software. After installing a supercharger or turbocharger you need full custom designed software. The development and testing of this software can take a lot of time and money. Be prepared to spend thousands of Pounds on software alone. Writing and testing the software on a dyno can take several days or even weeks. In case of a turbocharger setup installing a 1.6 ECOboost engine will be the easiest option. The 1.6 ECOboost is also based on the Sigma engine family. Why would you develop a full custom turbocharger setup yourself if Ford already did that. However installing a 1.6 ECOboost in a Focus MK2 also needs a lot of modifications to make it fit and run correctly. In case of a supercharger quite some calculations are required to select the correct supercharger. The capacity of a supercharger needs to be matched perfectly to the displacement of the engine. If the capacity of the supercharger is too low or too big the engine will never perform as it should or fail prematurely. Apart from this the supercharger needs to be properly driven by the engine. This requires a properly designed belt drive system with the correct (calculated) drive ratio. Also be aware that a supercharger can generate a lot of power but driving the supercharger also requires quite a lot of power from the engine. A significant part of the power gain will be needed to drive the supercharger. Below an example to (theoretically) calculate the correct supercharger and drive ratio based on the budget friendly 0,5 Liter Aisin AMR500 supercharger: Max RPM X Engine displacement = Theoretical required amount of air of the NA engine (6450 X 1.6 = 10320 Liters per Minute) This result needs to be divided by 2 because it is a 4-stroke engine. (10320 ÷ 2 = 5160 Liter per Minute) Desired boost + Atmospheric pressure ÷ Atmospheric pressure = Boost ratio (6 PSI + 14.7 PSI = 20,7 PSI) (20,7 PSI / 14.7 PSI = 1.4 Boost ratio) Theoretical required amount of air of the NA engine x Boost ratio = Required amount of air under boost. (5160 x 1.4 = 7224 Liter per minute) Required amount of air under boost ÷ Capacity of the supercharger per revolution (in Liter) = Supercharger speed at 6450 RPM engine speed. (7224 ÷ 0.5 = 14448 RPM) The Aisin AMR500 supercharger has a maximum permissible continuous speed of 16000 RPM. At 6 PSI boost the calculated RPM is within the maximum permissible RPM range of the supercharger. This theoretically means that the Aisin AMR500 supercharger needs a 1 : 2.24 drive ratio (1 revolution of the crankshaft is 2,24 revolutions of the supercharger) to generate 6 PSI boost on a 1.6 Duratec engine. The major downside of a supercharger is that it generates a lot of heat and is very noisy. The higher the RPM of the supercharger the higher the temperature of the compressed air. At higher supercharger speeds a major intercooler is required to cool the compressed air before it is forced into the engine. Note that these are just theoretical calculations for reference only. In real life the values can be different.

got the damn heavy box out and apart. nearly did myself an injury trying to lift it into garage.

That image only a bit of the CVT. Seems allot of parts compared to a manual box.

And in most cases it will be an expensive problem.

This aged poorly. Dealer ordered a 125 vignale instead of 155. So I bought the ST. Absolutely love everything about it.

I'm still using it on my desktop PC. Even though I've been using Windows 10 on a laptop for a couple of years I still prefer Windows 7. I hate Windows 10 with a passion Micro$oft is still supporting MSE on W7 so with that, the firewall and some strong passwords I hope to keep using it for a long time yet.

Just do them out nice and tight (without going too crazy), I've replaced all the gearbox and engine mounts on my 1.8 TDCi Focus without any issues i.e. nothing has shaken itself loose or fallen off! 😁

The transmission control unit will be tuned for economy above performance, so realistically this will always happen. Sport mode or put it in manually for a few minutes while you sort yourself up to speed - this is a bit easier with a paddle-shift though. The 6 speed torque convertor auto I've got in the Mk3.5 isn't too bad, though sometimes at 43mph it'll change up into 6th and the car feels a bit gutless, then other times I'm accelerating on the motorway up to 70 and it'll still be hanging in 4th or 5th as I approach 70, only shifting into 6th after a few seconds at 70. Guess it depends on a lot of things these days, including accel pedal position, car tilt (incline/decline) etc. Think we're just at the mercy of the cheaper boxes we'll have by owning a Ford (I believe my 6 speed is pretty much a GM 'box as it's also in the Astra in a very, very similar configuration) compared to the ZF8s of your BMWs etc.

Hi IMarinov, welcome to the forum. The short answer is 'No' There are so many differences between models that you could only safely use one from the exact same car as yours. For example you could not use a harness from a petrol car on a diesel, or a harness from a Zetec on a Titanium, there are just too many options that some will have extra sensors, and controls.