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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/06/2021 in all areas
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To be fair you can call it what ever you want......... It won't answer back.😂😂3 points
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I doubt if it is illegal to call yourself an Independent Mechanic, but if you are worried you could do what a lot of other people do and register with a false name and details. You do need to keep a note of the details because you have to change your password every few months. You can get service schedules, check DTC codes check what software your modules are on and check for recalls, as well as have details of what your car left the factory with.2 points
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That is not possible. The MK3 instrument cluster is not even connected to the same speed CANbus network as the MK2 instrument cluster (Mid Speed VS High Speed). Apart from the network speed the MK3 instrument cluster is also not part of the PATS immobilizer system like the MK2 instrument cluster.2 points
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Hi everyone I'm Jamie from The West Midlands and just a couple of weeks ago bought a 2 year old Fiesta ST-Line after owning a 2007 X-Type which truly became a money pit. Loving the Fiesta even more though :).1 point
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Hi all, Just to introduce myself, l am Lee and is a proud owner of a MK3 Ford Mondeo Ghia X 2.5 v6 24v Manual which will be a modern Classic one day. (top of the range) electric everything, Sat Nav, Cruise Control, Electric Windows, Electric Sunroof, Electric Drivers Seat (Both front Seats are Heated) all for just over £500👍1 point
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I've still never entered any myself! 😮 Though tbf, I wouldn't be able to drive most of the comp cars anyway lol.1 point
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I've been doing the BOTB competition for years now on and off, obviously, I've never won anything, just like what the company expect! LOL1 point
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1 point
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Hi again So I spent about 3 hrs last night removing the PCM.... the hard way first, before realising the wheel arch was the way forward. We traced the pink / purple wire to the PCM port, and load tested between the fan and the PCM. The wire was fine, so I dont think it is that issue. I also checked under the dash, behind the fuse box for any loose connections, or unplugged plugs, but visually everything looks fine. I am at a loss now to know what to do next, it seems as thought the signal to switch the relay is not getting there. I can't see a fault code that would suggest it is a managment issue, although annoyingly my FORSCAN has decided that it will not test in MS mode any more, is there a setting somewhere that will allow the switch, it did work and would pop up to ask me to switch to MS half way through the scan. But that doesn't happen anymore for some reason. Any suggestions on that? Aside from that, is anyone able to explain in layman terms how to test the port for the relay? See attached for a basic drawing of what I have. Once again thank you all for your patience and help! Notes_210606_193146.pdf1 point
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1 point
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Another pal and exworkmate of mine has just won the black Lamborghini on one of those 'Win A Car' raffles! He won a Golf a couple of years ago as well!1 point
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1 point
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Geoff? Or maybe radiator cover/air deflector/upper panel... I suspect they get listed as various names.1 point
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Hello again,shortly after the last post I made in this thread I decided to sorn the car until I could get some proper time to look at it. I have found that the auxiliary heater was the source of the battery drain,removing fuse 5(80a) in the engine fuse box confirmed this. I am correct in thinking this is controlled by a temperature sensor? If so please can a kind person confirm this and advise as to its location. Took it round the block and it showed the EML, getting dtc p1402 EGR metering orifice restricted,does this mean the car thinks it is cold(auxiliary heater on) and as such is giving more fuel to the injectors? I have forscan and the elm cable from TR but as yet not figured out how to see what condition the cdpf is in using this program. Tailpipe is black with greasy soot. Any input gratefully received. Thanks for being here Marty1 point
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My guess would be you damaged the rubber on the lower gearbox mount which was already worn before and now the whole bottom of the engine swings a bit when you start going forward or reversing. The lower gerabox mount when the rubber is damaged looks like the bottom picture. It is easy to diagnose on the lift or on the jackstands and also cheap and pretty easy to replace. Here is a video on replacing it:1 point
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1 point
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Hi Pete, I don’t have the Titanium but I’ve just checked my mk4 ST and the only headrest adjustment I have is up and down. No tilt back and forward. Cheers, Col1 point
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Hi John, That’s the latest system voice file. 👍🏼1 point
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1 point
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An update to this for anyone else whose Sync Update disappeared from the website as well. I originally downloaded the above 950 MB update last month but before I had a chance to load it I read the posts from others who said that the update had disappeared from the website. Mine had also disappeared so I did not upload it because I thought mine must have been pulled because there was a problem with it. I checked again this morning and I now have a 2.6 GB update to download and the F10 Maps seems to be waiting as well. I will post again when I have downloaded and compared it to the one that was pulled. I was on 3.4, 20351, F9.1 point
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Hello all Ford owners, my name is Trevor, owned Ford vehicles for the last 40yrs, currently drive a Ranger Wildtrak 2021MY1 point
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I know I've read a thread about this somewhere.. if I find it I'll post a link up. I think if you find the wire where it goes onto the PCM, break open the insulation and measure continuity from there.... 🤔 Here's that link to a really good thread....1 point
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Hi everyone! My name is Joacim and I'm a new member here from Sweden. Recently I became a proud owner of an Escort Mk1 Lotus Twin Cam. I bought it from my grandfather who has owned it since it was new 1969. He bought it from Ford UK and was racing with the car for about 4 years, after that it has not been driven but unfortunately my uncle took it apart to use parts for his own racingcars years later. Now I finally own the car after years of persuasion. My dream is to restore the car to original top condition. The car has never been registered here and I want to register the car to be able to drive it on public roads here in Sweden. I'm not sure my grandfather can find the papers when he bought the car so I wonder if there's anyone out here who knows if there's possible to get any papers through Ford in UK or something like that? Is it possible they have info about the cars they sold during this time stored somewhere? Best regards, Joacim from Sweden1 point
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1 point
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You can definitely splice into the HVAC if you have the dual control unit, and in fact that's what I did, but it's a little more awkward and you still need to get the other CAN bus from somewhere like the OBD2 port anyways so this is why I chose to take both from there in the tutorial. 👍1 point
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pcm. thats under and behind the n/s/f wheel arch trim sometimes the wire breaks inside the plastic so you cant see it. have you looked to see if the wirin/connector is still fitted to the evapourator temp sensor. often when servicing mechanics disconnect that temporary when fitting the odour/pollen filter. but that would show up a dtc depending on code reader cappability.1 point
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Hello and welcome to the Forum. You may need different wheel nuts for steel wheels, (not sure the difference), but I may be wrong.1 point
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1 point
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Have sent you DM. Hope it helps Mines got 12 sensors. What do you need to know.?1 point
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Mines got 12 sensors. What do you need to know.?1 point
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My guess is the car was owned by a woman who liked to use strong sented hand cream and purfume, both of which are known to damage the switch buttons over time. replacments are available from places like eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1250863782 As far as I known there are no aftermarket switches made for this model as it was produced in such low numbers.1 point
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It's called a seat valance. You remove a bolt at the rear and it unclips then the adjustment controls just unclip. Part is available new here- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-C-Max-MK2-Front-O-S-RH-Seat-Valance-1812259/162205916012?epid=2093064603&hash=item25c439db6c:g:1AsAAOSw-0xYdxbT1 point
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