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  1. Turvey

    Turvey

    True Ford Enthusiast


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    zain611

    True Ford Enthusiast


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  3. StephenFord

    StephenFord

    FOC Supporters


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  4. Marty...

    Marty...

    Budding Enthusiast


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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/07/2021 in all areas

  1. Now normally I'm never happy to see another car parked next to mine when I come out of the supermarket, but today I'll make an exception for a beautifully clean identical black Fiesta ST! Twins Actually there were a couple of small differences - the other one had black wheel centre caps, parking sensors, the original Mk7 aerial and nearly bald rear tyres! I'm guessing the tyres must have been swapped from the front at some point, because I still have the original rear Bridgestone Potenzas on mine with plenty of tread, and that car was a year newer than mine.
    4 points
  2. House on the market on Thursday, had 9 viewings ( pre booked open day) on Sunday and one more to come this afternoon and 6 more booked in for Thursday and so far had two offers in both above asking price. Looks like the move might be a goer.
    4 points
  3. From the Focus MK2 onwards both the instrument cluster and the additional ST/RS gauges are controlled by CANbus communication. There simply are no analog signals. Some MK2 and all MK2.5 GEM modules however support an analog speed pulse signal that is intended to be used for a taximeter or aftermarket satnav system. This signal can also be used for an aftermarket tachometer. If your GEM module/fuse box supports the analog speed signal it can be found on Pin 8 of the C98 connector of the GEM module/fuse box. Connector C98 is the small black square connector at the front of the GEM module/fuse box.
    3 points
  4. Peek, Brasso, Silvo, Autosol, Meguiars metal polish, I have them all! LOL
    3 points
  5. If you ever need mortgage advise you can let me know. I'm currently training in a broker to become a mortgage advisor 👍.
    3 points
  6. They don't use bulbs any more. They are surface mounted LED's soldered direct on to a PCB. If you remove the instrument pod from the dashboard and then take it apart you will probably find that they have stuck a small piece of black electricians tape over the LED, or if they wanted to go the whole way then they have removed the LED.
    2 points
  7. Kinda like me and gambling! My brother used to put money on the horses quite a bit, one day when visiting he wanted to watch a couple of races. The next race had 4 horses in it so I got him to put a £ on the 100/1 (he had an account with the local bookies) It fell at the 3rd fence!!! Never bet on a horse since! 😄
    2 points
  8. Hi all The title may seem a bit strange but With the issues I’m having with my HID lights and staring at a hefty repair bill for both front headlights I’m wondering if it’s worth simply changing my Xenon headlights to the good old reliable (and much cheaper) halogen. Car is a 2014 (64) Focus Titanium X I’m hoping it’s a case of changing the headlights, switch and programming in the new setup via forscan.
    1 point
  9. The other thing that makes a noise when switching off is the Throttle Valve, which is situated just before the inlet manifold. It should fully close then cycle on/off several times to shake the crud off. You can monitor the DPF with FORScan. There is a PID for Differential Pressure in the PCM. On an older car you should be looking for less than 0.5 at Idle, a lot less than 5 during steady cruising and if it get as high as 15 under load then you are in trouble. I'm not sure if you can see the Implied Soot Load on that model, there was no PID on the later MK 2.5's. You can also do a DPF Regeneration with FORScan and half a tank of fuel is more than enough. If your Differential Pressure readings are ok then don't because it should only be done if it is necessary, so much so that most manufacturers will not allow a car to do one if the DPF is too clogged because the heat build up could set the car on fire or do a lot of damage. If you do decide to do one then make sure the engine is warm first and your Laptop is fully charged because it can tale up to half an hour on some cars. I agree with Peter about leaving the fuse off, the Heater is a convenience that you can do without. From memory it should only be active when the outside temperature is less than about 9 and the coolant is less than 60, and should switch off when one of these temperatures reaches a certain point or you turn the Heater down to 0 or the Fan off.
    1 point
  10. Thanks @Tdci-Peter for your help,I have had forscan connected to the car and this revealed the p1402 dtc which I cleared before another run round the block which brought it back again,I am currently absorbing the information from this video https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=how+to+read+live+data+forscan&iax=videos&ia=videos&iai=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DugUb4PmXsw8 I feel more confident after a few views. My egr self tests after switch of confirmed by putting a drum stick on it and listening. I believe the cdpf has something to do with the noise like a compressor as I can see oil deposited on the turbo from back pressure,as my knowledge is still limited this might not be the case,I have a photo of the turbo here. I have had a chat with the local garage chap who will look it over for me on Wednesday with no cost.Good man. He will connect his scanning equipment and ascertain the state of the cdpf and associated sensors and possibly a static regeneration.I have read these cars will only regenerate if sufficient fuel is available,is half a tank enough if this is the case? I do so much appreciate the help I have recieved from the posts in this thread and also other threads on the site like jeebowhite have kindly taken the time to put together for the benefit of us all.Your own knowledge of cars makes you a professor in my eyes. Thanks again I will keep this thread updated. 👍
    1 point
  11. I met him on several occasions, he opened a shop for me in the 80s and signed footballs and was such a nice guy. Sadly, he also was supposed to do similar in the mid 90s, but never actually turned up (you can guess why), and the publicity of his non appearance was enormous! I also attended his funeral, just one of 1000s that lined the road, an amazing guy and still one of the greatest players ever...
    1 point
  12. Why not use Bluetooth instead?
    1 point
  13. I always thought Donalds beak had a funny look to it....
    1 point
  14. A split air hose makes a whooshing or hissing noise while the turbo is running hard, with a substantial boost pressure. There should be no boost pressure at idle, or even when cruising under light load, etc. So it would not happen at switch off. Various valves, and the radiator fan if running, will make noises on switch off. To connect Forscan to the car only needs the ignition to be on, and PIDs can be set-up and read before the engine is running. Temperature readings etc should be valid with engine off, and other readings like rpm can be read, but will be zero. I have run Forscan all through an engine start-up, seeing how readings change during the start, so it is quite flexible. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice, basic guide: https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=58645 I recall you read some very high un-wanted current draw, and the Aux (or PTC) heater will certainly do that. It is fairly simple bit of kit, just a resistor with a built in switching transistor. It gets a main battery supply from fuse F5 (the one you have removed), a control 12v supply from the GEM via F100, and a PWM signal from the GEM to activate it. There is no specific sensor for it, I geuss the GEM uses the ambient air temp (Ice) sensor, maybe the coolant temperature, and the heater setting on the controls to activate it when needed, and will only ever do so (intentionally) while the engine is running and enough power is available from the alternator. If it is coming on with the ignition off, the fault must be in the heater itself, F100 is not powered with ignition off. If it comes on with ignition on but engine not running, or when engine & cabin are up to temperature, then the fault could either be in the heater, or in the PWM signal driver in the GEM. But either way, removing F5 should fix it. It is not an essential item, it just warms the cabin up quicker in cold weather when the engine is also cold. Efficient Diesel engines take a long time to warm up. I doubt if there is any link between the EGR error code and the Aux heater. It does not warm up the engine, or have any direct effect on it. It sounds like a clogged or sticking EGR valve, a common problem. EGR valves often rattle or buzz on ignition off, mine does a test and cleaning cycle on each switch off, but mine is a 1.8.
    1 point
  15. that's great 👍
    1 point
  16. Hi all, I am a big fan of these forums... I'm an active member on one for my Triumph motorcycle, for homebrew, biltong making and my Skoda....which I hope to swap for a MK4 Mondeo estate Titanium X when I find one for sub 3k! Thanks for letting me in! (I'm going to find the relevant forum page to ask questions about the MK4 now)....
    1 point
  17. Bought my second car yesterday, a 2014 Fiesta 1.0 ecoboost (125) titanium! Loving it so far (definitely an improvement over my peugeot 107)
    1 point
  18. Just open the bonnet, find the horn and take the wire off it, and yes that will disable it. Don't take the steering wheel apart !!!!!
    1 point
  19. No, but funnily enough VW Group also seem to think so. Most versions of the Up!/Mii/Citigo have a tacho in the instrument display but the pre-facelift models could be had with an additional "maps and more" unit with Sat nav that plugged into a slot in the top of the dash. This could also be configured as additional instruments, including a tacho. As the original tacho is about the size of a 10p piece it makes some sense I suppose!
    1 point
  20. Thanks Col, the error5 msg , I’ve tried so many different things without any pc knowledge and poor memory. That error msg was earlier, I thought I’d sorted it but later I was getting the ‘untitled detected’ msg. Took me a while to realise extract means unzip! Just to complicate things further the pc I have access to had files from previous sync updates , also usb stick had something on it but I figured out how to format it. I’m hoping my brother can sort it out. Any input from people on here very welcome, not least yourself Col. cheers
    1 point
  21. its not a good picture try and get a clearer one
    1 point
  22. Hi Alex, The LST_ERR05 shows that the files listed in your autoinstall.lst don’t match the files in your SyncMyRide folder. When you copy the 21020 Sync update files over to the SyncMyRide folder on your USB drive you’ll have to copy the autoinstall.lst file that came with them too.
    1 point
  23. Have you pressed the info (i) button as this will tell you how many satellites the unit is picking up.
    1 point
  24. Thanks, unofix. Interesting, but doesnt relate to what I think is more of a forscan question that speedo accuracy. I have set the forscan to show my car is on the smallest diameter 14" wheels & tyres and the biggest 17" but the speedo shows the same discrepancy from the GPS. Also, I cant get other options to stick - such as the removal of daytime running lights. There seems to be a process to force changes made in forscan to the TCM and PCM, (below), but those dont appear on mine. https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15994
    1 point
  25. They may have taken the Instrument Cluster out and physically removed it or blanked it off. I doubt very much there has ever been a legal way of making it not come on but someone may know differently. If it has been programmed out (if that is possible) then it would be best to try to speak to someone from the dark side of cars who does that kind of thing to see if they can reverse it.
    1 point
  26. Hi, Just got my third Focus, this one’s a 2019 MK4 ST-Line, really happy with it. Previously had MK 1 & 3.
    1 point
  27. https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/police-chief-admits-hed-rather-his-family-didnt-use-smart-motorways/?cid=eml-AC058_CHUB_CARSINS-CHUB_INSUR_A_W1_20210607_105054&utm_medium=email&utm_source=AC058_CHUB_CARSINS&utm_campaign=CHUB_INSUR_A_W1_20210607_105054&omhide=true&contactURN=47577025&hasBreakdown=None
    1 point
  28. Because of a shortage of maids, the minister's wife advertised for a manservant. The next morning a nicely dressed young man came to the front door. "Can you start the breakfast by seven o'clock?" asked the minister. "I guess so," answered the man. "Can you polish all the silver, wash all the dishes, do the laundry, take care of the lawn, wash windows, iron clothes and keep the house neat and tidy?" "Say, vicar," said the young fellow rather meekly, "I came here to see about getting married - but if you expect me to do that much work, you can count me out right now."
    1 point
  29. Lol I entered my first raffle for a YouTubers car which was a Audi RS5. Yesterday was doing the raffle and as expected didn't win anything. Think that was my first and last time raffling 😂
    1 point
  30. So sorry I didn't get to this sooner because there's a trick my dad showed me (bit of an engineer). I had an old bike and one of the throttle control lever pivots above the carbs was sticky. I was at a loss as to how it had become too tight and was not at all happy. I was on the edge of hitting it with a hammer (anywhere on the bike would have done - I was quite young). What he suggested was a bloo** miracle as I'd also already done the working it backwards and forwards thing to no avail. He said drop a tiny bit of metal polish into the pivot (effectively a hinge) as you would if it was WD40, and you were trying to free it up. So I did and bug** me it worked. So, the tiny bit of abrasiveness in the polish reduced the size of frictional surfaces enough to do the trick and Voilà it was sorted. I think I blasted the hinge with WD to remove any remaining polish so it wouldn't continue to cause wear after freeing it up, then I greased it of course. This is probably deemed to be a workaround but it's something I've never forgotten as it was a real saver at the time. If Zippo don't get it right again, maybe worth a shot?
    1 point
  31. Hey guys I'm Neil I'm from the northwest uk I drive a 2012 s max Titanium X sport 161 bhp best car I've ever had and I've driven fords for years
    1 point
  32. I did something similar with a BMW i8 a few years ago...who designs these sills that are too wide to negotiate!?
    1 point
  33. Thankyou for your input @Tizer I am swatting up on videos,visual works better for me in learning. Marty
    1 point
  34. Yea it’s more than likely the unit, I tried an old Sony stereo which worked. I got that one used off eBay and have now returned. Just ordered this one which was the same model https://www.onbuy.com/gb/dab-car-stereo-satnav-dvb-t-ipod-bt-ford-focus-cs-max-mondeo-galaxy~c11578~p25145113/ Looked good when it was installed and was springy when using it, so hopefully be a decent sound too. They are definitely good for the price
    1 point
  35. Try this to reset the mirrors : 1. Open the driver's window so that you can operate the mirror controls from outside the car. 2. Remove mirror control panel and disconnect the loom. Manually set the mirror all the way forward to the front of the car and then lock the car. 3. Plug the loom back in place, after which the mirror should fold all the way in. Disconnect the loom again, and unlock the car, then fold the mirror all the way forward manually. 4.Lock the vehicle and reconnect the loom, this time the mirror should return to the normal open position. 5. Disconnect the loom once more, and unlock the vehicle. 6. Fold the mirror into the closed position manually, then reconnect the loom and lock the vehicle When you now unlock the vehicle, the mirror should open to the correct position. From Car Mechanics problem pages. I have not tried it, but the symptoms from the originator sound similar.
    1 point
  36. If you google how to read live data with FORScan, or something similar, then you should be directed to some useful information. You then need to spend some time taking it all in until you are confident enough to connect to the car and find what you need.
    1 point
  37. I still remember attending the Ulster Motor Show when the Lotus Elise was just launched, queued up for an age just to sit in it, 100s of people all around. Getting in wasn't a big issue, but on exiting, I lost my balance and fell flat on my ***** to the great amusement of all surrounding me! That sill is about 2ft wide LOL Yep, think I'll stick to my Focus...
    1 point
  38. I had to read that 3 times then I saw the word "any" 😮 That's without having a drink 🍺
    1 point
  39. That why I like BOTB, you actually choose the car you want, and then try and win it! I've actually chosen in the past quite ordinary ones LOL
    1 point
  40. You and me both! Getting in one of those would be difficult, getting out at all would be really difficult but getting out gracefully would be nigh on impossible! 😃
    1 point
  41. Best I can do so far! I'm guessing he'll take the cash though 🤔
    1 point
  42. Car now says it is up to date. Sync 21020 and f10 maps.
    1 point
  43. Another pal and exworkmate of mine has just won the black Lamborghini on one of those 'Win A Car' raffles! He won a Golf a couple of years ago as well!
    1 point
  44. Hi, I have the 2019 Titanium X and confirm that there is only up/down adjustment. As I understand it under European/UK regulations the tilt adjustment was removed many years ago. They are classified as 'Head Restraints' and form part of the occupant restraint system in terms of reducing or eliminating whiplash injuries. Because of the stupid amount of insurance claims in europe and the UK for whiplash injuries the head restraints are design so that no matter how badley adjusted they are they will prevent your head moving backwards in an accident. Of course in the USA they don't worry about such things as in the event of an accident it is a God given right to sue for everything plus a bit, so the head restraints are just head rests and you can adjust them as badly as you like with no worries.
    1 point
  45. That is not possible. The MK3 instrument cluster is not even connected to the same speed CANbus network as the MK2 instrument cluster (Mid Speed VS High Speed). Apart from the network speed the MK3 instrument cluster is also not part of the PATS immobilizer system like the MK2 instrument cluster.
    1 point
  46. Sadly witnessed a car crash today. Some young kid in his 5 series rear ended an old man in his VW tourag. The kid physically assaulted him. I decided to tell the older guy to stop the car further down the road so I can exchange information. His daughter messaged me saying how thankful she is I gave my information. Will send him the dashcam footage I have. @Stoney871 how should I go about this incident? Should I report it on the met police website? His daughter said she will contact RAC for the insurance part of it to make a claim.
    1 point
  47. Lol today I had a student nurse say how long my eye lashes are 😂. Then the second one noticing it.
    1 point
  48. Nimrod try haggling. The conv check is 95 quid at my ford dealer in Rugby.
    1 point
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