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The biggest worry I had with the Astra Zeneca job was that I might suddenly start appreciating Vauxhall Astras. I'm pleased to say that hasn't happened.

I can barely even see the clouds because so many clouds are covering them LOL

I'm basically your Mum in that story I'm afraid... I'm not one for small talk and don't have anything positive to say so I don't really understand why anyone would want to call me. When they do, I try my best to make some sort of response but they have to do the heavy work! I'm just not a social person... I know some (most!?) won't understand that.

In full Auto mode the dash only shows 'D' and not the gear the the car is in. If you leave the car in full auto and then use the up/down paddels the dash will show what gear you have selected for example '6' but after a while the car will take control of the gear change back and the gear number will change back to 'D' If you want full manual control of the gearbox then you have to select the 'M' button and use the up/down paddles to change gear. In this mode the gear number will be displayed and the car will not take back control of the gear changes. However no matter which method you have used to select gears manually you can not select '1' unless the car is at a standstill. This has been true of all the autos that I've driven since 1999, which include Ford, Vauxhall, Land Rover and Jaguar. If I understand the OP, he is leaving the gearbox in full auto mode and using the up/down paddles to change gear which is fine, but what he is experiencing is that he can not select first gear while using this method. You can select first gear, but the car must be at a complete stand still before the auto box will allow you to manually select first.

Short answer: no. Could be the phone on their end though, or just an old / badly wired socket.

Hi all for those who are still having trouble with the rattling in one or both front doors i have the solution, it took a bit of investigating but seemed to have fully resolved issue! Believe it or not the B-pillars! In both door cards right on the top near to the b pillars is a flimsy tinny metal loop that allows the door card to sit in place. The plastic hook that goes in to this is what causes the rattling when on the move as they vibrate off each other. Its a 10 min fix by removing doorcard and then wrapping tesa tape round both the hook and the metal loop. I hope this helps, it was doing my nut in!

Hoping I can help someone here. Apologies if there is already a duplicate post. Trawled the internet for a fix to this but couldn't find an answer. Problem 2 door Fiesta 2016 Zetek passenger seat stuck in sliding forward position. I could move the seat approx 100mm back and forth until a firm stop (on the door side) It would move further than the locking tab spacing so knew the lever/bar under the seat to slide back and forth was releasing the locking tabs. After 2 hours on my knees and cursing, I finally found the problem. Check First If the seat moves backwards and forwards about 100mm when using the lever under the seat but does not move AT ALL when you pull the lever by the headrest to tip the seat forward and slide to let rear passengers in, then you more than likely have the same problem as me. The Problem When you need to let passengers in the back, you tip the seat forwards and slide the seat forwards at the same time. When the seat is tipped forwards, a cable pulls a coiled sprung lever which pushes down on the same lever as you would normally use to adjust the back and forth position of the seat. Due to the poor design and flimsy metal tab, it becomes bent out of the way and the lever manages to pass the tab and end up underneath and jams the slide rail. Hopefully the pictures will make sense. Solution Look under the seat from the back at the kerb/door side and locate the coiled spring (pictures) Compare with the driver side (or vice versa as the problem can occur on either seat) Picture 1 is incorrect. The lever should be ABOVE the bar so it can push down to release the slide when the seat is folded. Picture 2 is correct. The lever is above (apologies but this picture is from the side of the seat with the trim removed. You should not need to remove this) Any doubt, just compare with the working seat from underneath. With the seat back in the UPRIGHT position so the cable is slack, reach under and pull the flimsy bar away enough for the coiled spring tab to be pushed back up past it to sit on top. Then bend the bar as far back as possible to allow the lever to sit evenly on top and not just on the edge. This will all make more sense when you see it in the flesh. I'm convinced this is going to happen again as it all looks bendy and flimsy so going to see if I can modify it in some way. For now though, it would appear that the amount of leverage generated by tilting the seat folded forward is too much for the poor design and will only tip the seat forward enough for passengers to get in the back. Hope this all makes sense and good luck.

B1681 might be a helpful code here, also the PATS flash code might be useful. B1681: PATS Receiver Module Signal Not Received That suggests the IC (cluster) is not getting a signal from the transceiver module around the ignition key. If you were using a diagnostic system like Forscan, it would tell you which module the fault code was in. If the code was in the IC, it would confirm it was the short link from transceiver to IC. It could be a fault in the cluster, a connector or wiring problem, or a faulty transceiver. If the DTC was in the PCM (ECU), then a CAN bus fault is more likely. But there are 5 connectors in the CAN bus from IC to ECU, including the one on the IC. So the fault still may not be in the IC. If it was a CAN bus fault, I would expect to see far more error codes than just those two. The CAN bus resistance test (60 ohms between pins 6 & 14 on the diagnostic connector with the ignition off) would help confirm if there was a HS-CAN bus problem. You might have to repeat it quite a few times as the problem seems to be intermittent. Also it needs a good diagnostic system like Forscan to be able to clear the Theft DTCs, once set they tend to stick. That might be why you have to do the battery disconnect. Re-soldering complex surface mount pcbs is not easy, especially if you try to do the big, fine pitch ICs. I would try more investigations, as above, before getting too drastic with the IC.

The problem with the AC not working is to do with the throttle body. Under very heavy acceleration the AC is disengaged to take the load off the engine. I would check the throttle body sensor as the fault is saying it is wide open, and hence AC relay is switched off.

Handset quality and cable quality are the biggest factors. If the cable quality (inside or outside the house) is sub-par on one end but good on the other then it might be fine. If it's poor on both ends then it will be a poor connection. Problem is that there are many factors which can impact the line quality. My parents used to have many issues with their phone line - turned out to be their connector box on the phone pole 500m down the road. When it rained water got into the box and caused issues, but that would go away when the box dried out. A line quality test should indicate if there's a problem, but it's very difficult to convince Openreach to do a full test. Usually they just do basic tests to verify the connection exists. Perhaps the solution is to buy a small computer, install Skype, then attach some kind of keypad and headset setup that mimics the appearance of a normal phone 🙂

He'll likely spin it out for another 20 odd years till it's been around long enough LOL 🤣

What's going to happen when your parents say "Hey, Zain, you're over the hay fever now, when are you going to re-book that jab?" None of my business of course, but perhaps you need to have a conversation about it with your parents?

Greetings! At 42 years young, I thought I might share my Ford history with you: 1986 1.1 Mk2 Fiesta in "hearing aid beige", my learner car and a complete shed. Enormous steering wheel, I recall. 1987 1.1 Mk2 Fiesta Ghia in a sort of petrol green colour. Loved this car, pepper pot alloys, some aftermarket steering wheel, and a K&N pancake filter on it that used to sound like the weapon it sadly never was. Driven way faster than it should have been. Brilliant fun. 2002 1.6 Mk1 Focus (basic) in Silver. Bought it for about £400 and never faltered once in the 4 years that I had it. p/x it for £100. Absolute bargain. 2008 1.6 Mk2 Focus Titanium in Green. A dependable car until the end when it started needing quite a lot of necessary work. Great spec, entirely gutless though. 2011 1.6 Mk3 Focus TDCi Titanium in Silver. Had it since Monday! This is the first car that me and the missus will share - she's still learning, so this will be my runaround until she passes, after which I fully expect to never get any time in it ever again. I also own a Jaguar XE as my main car, but the engine has recently eaten itself, and as soon as I've spent the best part of £9k getting a refurb engine fitted, it's gone! I'll be looking to get myself a nice Ford after the Jag (nobody wants those sort of bills) but I'm not yet decided what. Possibly a Mk3 ST or a Mk4 ST if funds eventually allow it. ... and that's me. I've had plenty of other cars over the years, but I won't bore you with them here! Glad to have signed up, lots of really useful information that I wish I'd known about sooner! Cheers!

I'm just curious why Grundig doesn't fill you with confidence? They have been around for decades, had a hi-fi with them in the 70s, good soid German engineering, it was great! So, why don't you like them?

Like being in the west of Ireland 🌫️

It's too bloomin' cloudy here too. Clouds always ruin any celestial event, lol.

Hopefully get chance later as will probably be on news or like you mention online in some form or other.

If you make a backup of your current APIM settings (definitely do this anyway), then we can compare the two files so we know what to change after 👍

Lol my parents booked my jab on Tuesday. Went there and said I don't want it 😅. The clinicians were supportive and said it's my choice. Had to lie to my parents and say they didn't want to jab me as I had very bad hayfever on that day and those symptoms and mimic flu. Personally I wouldn't get the jab after it has been long term since it was authorized.

That's probably cos back in those days 1st gear didn't have synchromesh so you could damage the cogs if you weren't at standstill.

The 2018 ST-2 comes with these as standard: Climate control Traction control Sat nav Heated seats along with the basics Alloy wheels (18" I believe) ABS Airbags (driver, passenger and side) Cruise control Sync 3 entertainment system with bluetooth Front fog lights Heated mirrors Alarm Body colour bumpers Sports seats Steering wheel adjustment (height and reach) Steering wheel controls for audio/phone Front electric windows Optional extras for the 2018 ST-2 (paid upgrades) Air con Rear parking sensors Rear electric windows

had my second jab today 39yrs old, i work in a shop serving the public all day. i would off hapilly paid to have the jabs. Matt

If you get another years running for £250 and a couple of Sundays them that seems like a good deal. The Supplemental Heater should not work at all at this time of year because the ambient temperature is in double figures, that is irrespective of where any of the other controls are set. The problem could be a Module fault, a wiring fault or a fault with the heater itself. Unfortunately a lot of the dash may need to come off the get to it. If the EGR does need replaced then it should be replaced with one from the original equipment supplier because there are so many reports of people fitting cheap aftermarket ones that do not work. They are not cheap though.

It's him, not you! Does sound like trying to do a DPF regen in hot temps confused the PCM. Hopefully just a one off and won't happen again.

I need to check this out as I think the heater was at 0.🙄 The garage chap had a look today,the MOT is due very shortly so he did the MOT whilst the car was with him,it failed needing some welding on the sill nearside rear,washer pump not working and two tyres I knew about,front number plate degraded and left hand wiper not working,it passed emissions test.Has advised to remove egr and clean and test actuator. He has given me some work painting the mot bay as payment for Mot and sorting the car £250,I can do the work over a couple of Sundays.Good man. Car will be back with me Friday. Once the car is back with me I will replace the 80a fuse and adjust the heater and see if the battery drain is persisting. I will report back. Thanks Marty

I’ve had team heko and climair and I can say the heko always seem to fit better but are thinner then the climair one’s

Yep, got loads of clips with my Heko, and they all work 100% with no issues whatsoever...

Interesting one, this. I've not driven a Focus 4, but find the ST-Line suspension on the Fiesta (similarly torsion beam) quite acceptable (it's no limo, mind), even speaking as an OAP with long term back problems. Is the Focus that different? Anyone got experience of both? No doubt in my mind that the roads are the worst they've been in my time. There is an unclassified road near us that we increasingly avoid due to its condition. Recently it was closed altogether for repairs. We were expecting the usual "surface dressing" bodge job but when we next drove on it we were absolutely gobsmacked. They'd actually resurfaced it properly with smooth tarmac. - it was how most roads used to be.

Lol they weren't whinging Stephen, just reporting what they found. Not come across anyone yet who wouldn't have it, whether it hurts a bit or not!😀

Do you know if your car is one of the later Euro5 ones?. I had a MK 2.5 Euro5 one and although I did not have problems, I used to do a lot of monitoring for reference purposes. My MAF values were always just below 6 g/s at Idle and I notice that your ones are a lot higher. If you have one of the earlier engines then that may be why, or maybe my readings were wrong. Another reason maybe because you have blanked off your EGR, so extra air need to be taken in the compensate. My MAP readings could get as high as 200-250 kPa under extreme load, but only for a short time. I believe that somewhere near 250 is the maximum for these engines. Your problems are likely to be one of the ones that @Tenko has pointed out, but for completeness have you had a look at the DPF Pressure values and that the Throttle Valve is behaving itself. I don't think that they are the source of the problem, but they may provide some further clues.

When i say MAP im referring to the MAP/Boost sensor the not engine map in the ECU. (manifold absolute pressure = MAP) if it read higher or lower pressure than it should it shuts down the turbo system to prevent damage. Boost leaks are a git to find some signs can be slight oiling around joins excess dirt build up along pipes. You can use a heavy smoke source to see if you getting a blow from the intake system, but it need to be heavy smoke other wise you won't see it there was some i saw a while ago with dye in as well so you could use a uv source, other tricks are using a mist spray (be careful flammable etc) around the pipes and joins to see if you have air coming out or air being drawn in the engine pitch will change for a second or two. Side note check for weak jubiles or spring clips on the pipes they could be leaking under pressure. Without knowing full vehicle details hope this helps.

So here's the update.... Head gasket has been changed (along with a new oil filter, water pump, timing belt and aux belt) and all working as it should. The mechanic noticed that the sealant around where the cam shafts is wasn't "factory neat" and that there was a significant amount of sealant around the HG. He's thinking that the previous owner, knowing that the HG had blown, may have had it bodged and then quickly traded it in to get rid of it - whether the dealer I bought it off knew or not is a different story. Either way, there's 0% chance that I'd be able to prove anything anyway. Now, earlier I mentioned that everything is working as it should, that's not technically true - the turbo has decided that it's not going to work (the leaver for the actuator has seized) meaning another £400 for a new turbo (with fitting). On top of that, there's a couple of fault codes to do with a couple of injectors - hoping that running some redex (or similar) will cure that issue. Will update again once the turbo has been replaced...