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  1. F0CUE

    F0CUE

    True Ford Enthusiast


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  2. TomsFocus

    TomsFocus

    FOC Supporters


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  3. StephenFord

    StephenFord

    FOC Supporters


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  4. BigLen

    BigLen

    True Ford Enthusiast


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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/03/2021 in all areas

  1. did my online speed awareness course this morning via zoom. thats 3 hrs i will never get back. will take the points and fine if i ever get caught again. "what have you learnt from this course today. was it so wrong to say " take an a alternative route avoiding speed cameras then go as fast as you want" somepeople have no sence of humour.
    3 points
  2. id go with the 1.8TDCI and blank the egr valve, however if you do choose the 1.6 petrol then you need to apply bathroom silicone to the underside of windscreen washer jets on the bonnet; apply it around them underneath the bonnet; because the seals deteriorate allowing rain water to drip inside the bonnet; this happens on all focus but it only affects the 1.6 Petrol model due to the positioning of the engine; the rain water drips on to the top of the engine and leaks in to the cavity of the crank case filling up around the coil packs and slowly decaying the engine from the inside out,, guide to fix 1.6 petrol engine from rain water leaks here: Focus Mk2 1.4 & 1.6 Petrol - Engine Water Leak Fix / Engine cover - Ford Focus Guides - Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums trust me I've been on here since 2010, here's one very badly affected: Water In Plug Ports Issue, With Pictures - Ford Focus Club - Ford Owners Club - Ford Forumsthere's another highly detailed trying to find it now.... now regarding the diesel; The biggest concern in northern Ireland when buying a diesel is to be sure that its been run on the correct colour of diesel, alot of independent garages sell cheap diesel, bought cheap from the border as its laundered agricultural diesel from southern Ireland, Thankfully there's no dpf so that wont really be a problem, however the Sulphuric acid in laundered diesel deteriorates the fuel injector seals; so look for signs of black smoke on first start up after the vehicle has been sitting parked for a few hours, or signs of oil around the top of the engine, just blank the EGR valve with a stainless steel plate and have the fuel filter changed for maximum economy, the 1.8TDCI best of luck.
    3 points
  3. Hi Guys / Gals I understand that some have had concerns as to my welfare due to my uncustomary silence. Rest assured I am still around and do look in on everything, however my workload has been horribly time consuming as of late. Hopefully i will be back to my usual (annoying) self on the club shortly. Sorry Fellas, you haven't got rid of me yet. Keep on driving and remember to keep the shiny side up.
    2 points
  4. Yes I would keep topping it with diesel and hope for the best. If it had the capless easy fuel tank it wouldn't of been possible. I think it would of been worse if you had a petrol car and filled with diesel.
    2 points
  5. If I did that in mine, given it's age I'd probably just say f**k it, brim the tank and keep topping it up once I'd used a quarter tank to keep diluting the petrol concentration 😁 For what it's worth mate, I really wouldn't worry about it.
    2 points
  6. I probably picked the wrong MAF as there is 2 of them as I'm new to doing this but it is very interesting. I love technical stuff and yes defo a good idea to keep screens to get an idea if something does go wrong again. Thanks for helping out 😁
    2 points
  7. What do you mean ? if they don't have a carburettor and distributer how could they work !!!! You'll be telling me next that some cars have electric motors instead of engines 🀣
    2 points
  8. Ok so had done the dashboard video the other day and found the shared file was not readable so grabbed it today whilst working on the car. Before error After error and going up a hill. As you can see turbo is operational in the first one but then it completely dies. I had the undercovers off today and the turbo is very awkward to get to at the bottom rear of the engine I would literly have to remove all pipes to get my head in there 🀣 all pipes look normal with no leaks. I removed all codes for a test and it made it 1 mile with boost today I got my hopes up then it came back again. The noise as per the video I posted earlier is from the boost pressure solenoid I removed the power and the noise ceased could this be what is giving the issue? @Tizer
    2 points
  9. Indeed, a worthy upgrade!
    2 points
  10. Plus the EGR can be easily blanked without throwing the EML.
    2 points
  11. We've had this on DVD for ages and still not managed to watch it yet! πŸ™„πŸ˜€
    2 points
  12. Watched the TV premiere of Rocketman last night... Not a fan of musicals but that was actually pretty good.
    2 points
  13. No. The cap applies to average usage... So there is a set amount of units that the Β£1277 applies to. Use more units, and it'll cost you more, use fewer and it'll cost you less. The cap is technically on the unit price rather than a yearly figure.
    2 points
  14. Bypass? Limp mode is there to protect the engine. (search on this forum) There have been issues with a faulty solenoid that pumps more oil around in high demand moments, leaves you in limp mode until the engine is switched off and after some time (ie overnight/next journey) So for you it should reset overnight after a journey if its a faulty solenoid issue - if not you need the issue looked at by Ford. Best not bypass a engine issue for the sake of the engine, could be costly.
    2 points
  15. Mrs car (69reg Vignale) has been parked for last 2-3 months without being driven pretty much at all. (We normally use my other car). Very few times due to lockdown. when i drove today and wanted to turn on heating, to my surprise, I couldn’t get any warm/hot air even after 45mins driving (20miles). I checked coolant - and its between min and max.it blows only cold air, AC works but again for cold. ( I set on HI temp). is there anything i’m missing? I thought maybe because car wasn’t used much but not after engine is properly heated, surely. Can i do anything myself to make it work or do i need to take it to ford garage (car is still under 2.5k miles). Thanks in advance.
    1 point
  16. Hi I'm sam have a 2010 Ford focus witch is causing me nothing but problems and running out of options
    1 point
  17. Thank you I will give it a go tomorrow 😊
    1 point
  18. Thanks it only costs about 20 quid so if that is the issue I will be happy πŸ‘ This is where the turbo is located who the hell thought of that 🀣
    1 point
  19. Shame it's not a 1.6 TDCi, turbo right at the front on those. If the pipes going to the boost solenoid are all good then it would suggest the solenoid itself is the problem. The PCM will default to wide open vanes for minimum boost when in limp mode so that's a bit of a red herring on live data.
    1 point
  20. My 2007 1.6tdci fiesta started doing that at about 120k miles. It did it many times. Only seemed to do it on left turns. Put fault code reader on it. Said code was low fuel pressure. I replaced fuel filter and it was cured. Fuel filter is 37500 miles on service schedule but I had ignored that until this happened.
    1 point
  21. im looking to keep this one as professional as possible, no decals or diffusers lol my work colleague has one in his Yaris though, you know the Yaris which i put the 32" 4D Led light bar on,
    1 point
  22. @BigLen should of gotten a train horn πŸ˜πŸ˜‚
    1 point
  23. Try changing the battery in the key and see if it makes a difference.
    1 point
  24. I highly recommend watching excellent from beginning to end; also I really like the beginning as he enters an addiction recovery meeting dressed as a devil Rock & Roll from beginning to end,πŸ‘
    1 point
  25. I do like getting a horn; It came πŸ˜‚ oh lord! It arrived rather yesterday from China purchased via AliExpress Link: CHSKY Car Horn Snail type Horn For Hyundai Solaris Creta ix25 Kona Santa Fe ix35 Grand i10 Sonata Getz i20 i30 i40 ix20 ix35 i45|Multi-tone & Claxon Horns| - AliExpress it's a straight swap double snail upgrade for my Hyundai ix20. Which I'll be fitting to it next March to replace the very timid "meep" "meep" disc, along with a number of other upgrades and additions; when the good weather conditions return; It's all going to be documented here: Lenny's South Korean Adventure ix20 - General Chat - Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums existing standard horn in the Hyundai ix20 according to breakers selling them on eBay looks like this: and here's how it sounds in my ix20 πŸ˜„ So its being upgrade to a straight swap replacement from AliExpress which has a specific factory plug loom which plugs in to the Hyundai ix20 factory plug then in to the dual tone snails, However it doesn't have a T-bar to bolt both snails on to the factory bracket, So ill work on manufacturing a small strip of metal with three holes in it; center one will bolt to the existing bracket instead of the existing horn, then bolt on a snail to either ends,
    1 point
  26. NO NO NO, Jonro, you are losing your touch, ha ha Gareth, A 2016 Mondeo will be a Mk5 Mondeo. A 2litre Petrol Ecoboost Mk5 Mondeo will NOT have a Getrag Powershift Mk5 Petrol 2L Ecoboost Mondeo 2014/2015 onwards has a torque converter type trans designed and manufactured by Ford USA, originally in conjunction with GM (General Motors). It is 6 speed designated as Model 6F35 Mid Range. It is a pretty decent trans especially as it has since gone on to be available in 8 speed form on some models. Only Mk5 Mondeo diesels retained the Getrag Powershift trans Jonro, are you going to post up to Gareth on your FB site in case he does not come back on here to see the correct answer πŸ˜€
    1 point
  27. Thanks Tom, the toilet was just fitted as it's a 'comfort' toilet, it's about 2" higher than standard (fitted privately). She has been assessed by her occupational therapist (following a stroke) and currently has a care team, and a new staircase handrail fitted, but a high toilet seat seems to be beyond current knowledge of anyone LOL
    1 point
  28. A few months back I volunteered to change the toilet seat for a friend, then discovered it had 'concealed' fittings which I had never seen before. Returned seat and still haven't found out how to do it. In addition, mum has just had a new toilet fitted and I wanted to get her a high toilet seat (she's 83) but can't find a suitable one. Toilets are a ***** nuisance LOL
    1 point
  29. I don't understand how it can be so hard to make a decent toaster with all the tech we have now. I'm sure the control knob on mine isn't even connected at the back...seems to be a lottery regardless of where it's set!
    1 point
  30. So likely that the clunk on gear changes is the below. The rear pipe has broken from the hanger as has the front downpipe. Given the level of rust an corrosion this hasnt just happened in the less than 200 miles the car has been driven and if it has then still should sort IMO. Just needs cleaning up and welding not a big deal. https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Tip53Nj6PSOIUyxWspMMipYRhQCWt4w/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/12ko2yEnn0u17Lm4Ofa5ipe6UM-OPh2tE/view?usp=sharing
    1 point
  31. I tried it twice, it just asks me for money so no chance.
    1 point
  32. Just last week I fitted a set of Revo RF019 wheels in matte anthracite with Michelin PS4S tyres. Love the way these wheels look. Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs coming soon…
    1 point
  33. Sounds as though the control valve has seized shut. There is an electrically operated valve in the hot water system that is opened and closed rapidly and the ratio of time open to time shut controls the temperature. Dealer job. Their test gear will check the signal to the valve against expected temperature.
    1 point
  34. Yes, it's not that clear how it's calculated. I was trying to find something simple along the lines of "x amount of units at y price" to explain how they get Β£1277, but failed!πŸ˜ƒ This is the explanation on the Ofgem site but it's still not simple! https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/publications/record-gas-prices-drive-price-cap-ps139-customers-encouraged-contact-supplier-support-and-switch-better-deal-if-possible
    1 point
  35. Feel both coolant lines that go through the bulkhead into the cabin (with the engine up to temperature). The feed line should be pretty hot to the touch. If it's cold then you probably have air in the heater matrix that will need to be bled out.
    1 point
  36. Well, when I checked the car, it had a loose grille, exactly on the side that is making the noise, when I went to the dealership to fix it, they put the grille back in place, and I remember someone there saying that it would only come loose with a hit. I even said that the car was already like this when I checked it the first time I went to the dealers. I have some photos that I took that day, and you can see the loose grille. So yeah, maybe that is going to be my "get out of jail(or fiesta) free card." I've been going to that dealership since I was a kid. My parents have been buying all their cars for 20+ years in that place. They should have been a little more honest when they sold me the car. I also can't understand why I had to wait a full month to receive the car, and it was delayed because "the car was being inspected and reconditioned before delivery" but the car still had the loose grille when I got it. When I delivered the car to check the noise the first time, it was there for almost 3 weeks, with no fix. I then had to wait for them to have an available elevator for them to check the problem again, and I waited for another month. There is a law in my country regarding used car warranty that states that if the used car has a defect, the customer has to alert the dealership, and they have a month to fix the problem. If the problem is not fixed in that timeframe, the customer can ask for a partial refund, replace the car for another that is equal in value, or even give up it totally, with the full refund of the money.
    1 point
  37. I have ford edge 2013, 160,000 Km I would like to ask, how can I bypass the LIMP MODE while I am driving my car 100km/h on the highway?
    1 point
  38. Yeah that's right. If the slave cylinder fails at a later date you have to go through the same amount of labour again to replace it, so it's always worth changing it when doing a clutch.
    1 point
  39. The top kit is only 2 piece so doesn't include the slave. But I wouldn't hold out much hope for ECP's website to show the correct parts based on reg.
    1 point
  40. If only this was the case 🀣. Got about 140 miles to empty which should last a few weeks
    1 point
  41. After a year of thinking about it, it's now done. Lots of suggestions of decent horns here, but I went the simplest route possible. My lowly LX had a single trumpet horn fitted, and sounded like a child's toy car! I went for the one fitted to an ST225, a very loud twin trumpet. Added advantage was the simplicity of fitting, took me about 10 minutes Electrical adapter is exactly the same, and as a bonus, the seller told me that my car would go faster now with it fitted as it was from an ST! Massive advantage with the Mk2 is the ease of accessibility, you just remove the top plastic slam panel and have full access to the horn. Have also uploaded a short sound burst of old, and new for your delectation! They'll not be laughing at me now when I sound my horn, though they will be confused as they look round for something 'proper' on the road making that noise LOL Old horn sound... New horn sound...
    1 point
  42. It needs 2 so you can hear it over the exhaust πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚. Although I think mine needs about 6 to drown out my exhaust now lol.
    1 point
  43. Sounds more like a real horn now the old one was pathetic πŸ˜‚
    1 point
  44. Great suggestion, original post now edited!
    1 point
  45. Nice one no more noddy car sound πŸ˜‚ you can upload your sounds to sound cloud.
    1 point
  46. I have an embarrassing confession, and am not a happy bunny! I know this is a bit off topic, but the OP has not been around since 22 Sep, so I hope he won't mind! Also it is a bit of a lengthy story, so maybe try to bear with me. When I wrote "the engine is running absolutely sweet & smooth" I did think of adding "touch wood"! I had to go to Corfe Mullen today (60 mile round trip) to deliver shopping & company to my better half's sister, who is still recovering from a broken leg (fibula & tibia, compound). Then next weekend I was planning to haul a heavy trailer up to North Dorset (another 60 miles round), followed by a 60 mile round trip to Dillington house for an event booked by SWMBO. She paid Β£28 for it and it is the first since pre-Covid, and we also promised a recently bereaved neighbour a lift, so is not optional! I had just under half a tank, which is a bit marginal even for my 1.8. Also I do not trust my fuel gauge. It usually reads high with 10l when showing almost empty, but I have been doing partial fills lately, & have no experience of how it will respond to that. So on the way back from Corfe, I called in at Shell Bere Regis, to see if I could get a few more litres. There was one pump with no locks on, the VP one with a black nozzle, so I pulled up to the pump and stated to fill. Then I re-read the pump name plate, to my horror, it was VP Unleaded!. I had put in just 2.5l, so stopped instantly. I paid, then worked out I had between 25l and 33l of Diesel in the tank. I seemed to recall that up to 10% Petrol in Diesel was not too bad, plus there was not much alternative: Even if the tank was drained, would I be able to get it re-filled? So I drove the 18 miles back home, with an unusually light right foot. There were no unusual symptoms at all. When I got home I Googled Petrol in Diesel, and got mixed results. One source said 10% was fine, but most said the lubricity would be badly reduced, with long term damage to fuel pump & injectors, which I find possible (just) to believe. To cap it, as soon as I got home, I heard reports that the fuel crisis was largely over, and a friend had managed to get a complete fill today (incidentally reducing the need to haul the heavy trailer, as he can also do that!) So I have saddled myself with a load of worry and an expense between Β£30 (to dump my contaminated fuel) and Β£2000 (to replace pump & injectors) for nothing. Great! Anyway my plan is to siphon out the stuff in my tank, and re-fill from the local garage if they have stock this week. It is less than a mile away, I could even carry a 10l can back from it if I felt it would help, though having done 18 miles already I doubt if that would make any difference. What's done is done! I am not really after advice, or even false comfort. Have a bit of a (slightly sympathetic?) laugh if you like. Unless someone has had a very similar experience with the same engine, there is no telling how it will respond. It just helps a bit to share the experience!
    0 points
  47. The 1.5 has the TC box and the 2.0 has the powershift. Join my Mk5 Mondeo group and you wil get al the answers you need. https://www.facebook.com/groups/693277794183606/?ref=share
    0 points
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