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mmm... never judge a book... LOL 🤣

Have you tried fitting a new daffodil ?

Especially when the water on the plastic sheet has frozen solid.

Even if you buy one, I can guarantee after a few times you'll get fed up having to fit it and uncover it - and where will you store a soaking wet plastic sheet? Even the ones that cover the screen are a pain to store when you take them off - and with a heated screen not worth the effort.

The heading says it's auto

Yes, very amusing wasn't it!😀 Interesting to see what an effect towing a caravan had, though. Wonder what the touring caravan fraternity will do. Also the Government have announced measures in England that they say will add around 150k charging points per year. This, a Downing Street source says, means that driving an electric car would become "as easy as refuelling a petrol or diesel car today". Really? Have they found a new type of charger that gives you 350 miles range in under 5 minutes?

The Sony MiniDisc was launched in the early 90s as a 'replacement' for the CD. I was in the music retail industry at the time and remember telling the MD of Sony UK that it was doomed to failure (a very brief chat!). It may have been technically superior, BUT, offered no substantial increase in quality/usability over the already ubiquitous CD. It was quietly dropped within 2 years. The public are not stupid, nor in the habit of being conned by technology, just because a manufacturer states it is brilliant. Most will see through the failings of battery cars as opposed to a 'refillable' car to full range in a few minutes, not hours. Watch last nights episode of Top Gear (series 31, episode 2) to illustrate the primary issue...

It's the over-heating warning.

Not good, that is the Water in Fuel warning. I don't know if the filter has a drain point on your engine and whether there is a hand pump as well.

Go on, I dare you!! LOL

I have a set of "la cucaracha air horns" that I used to have on my 1975 Escort Mk2. (Yes I know they were illegal in the UK for vehicles registered after 1974). It would be fun to put them on my Foucs 🤣

Who doesn't love a good horn mod LOL

Actually, I think I can narrow my search down with the filters. Thanks @unofix.

I bought a plastic screen cover one winter. Used it three times before it went in the bin.

Thanks everyone. I remembered having seen something at somepoint, but as Idon't have a dog, I never needed to use it!

I used a similar one in my ST for many years, Asure branded running Windows CE. Never used all of the features in truth but the reversing camera worked a treat and the sat nav was ok too for the few times I needed it. Had some odd niggles but I expect the same with the more pricey branded units out there. Swapped it out for a tablet type Android unit now, which I’ve not used lot of the features on, generally works ok but has the odd niggle here and there......

Yes, I've tried these over the years and come to the conclusion that for a car that's going to be used fairly regularly, they're more trouble than they're worth. Another issue is, the inside needs to be scrupulously clean and free of grit otherwise you can get scratches on your paint when you take it off.

Yes quite a few have them fitted (including me). There's dozens of detailed posts about them dotted around the forum if you search.

Being in the single market, and under the authority of the ECJ (European Court of Justice) is being in the EU! My vote for 'Brexit' never really contemplated the dogs dinner we now have 🤣

Yes, normally, but if it's a 3 door, it will lock the passenger door. It's likely you are correct that a new switch may be needed, my suggestion just reflects me, quick, and cheap LOL EDIT Just saw it was an 'estate' - I'll get my coat 🤣

So unfortunately this is my first car and I am financing it I started my insurance in July and I’m not wanting to loose one years NCD so I’m in a difficult situation at the moment in which way to go about it I regret buying such a high mileage car!

Hi all New to the group and returning to the Ford family having previously owned 2 Mondeo's and an oil burning Fiesta. Neil

It's funny how they can't find any service records for when you want to purchase the car, but the minute something goes wrong they'll be able to prove it missed first service and refuse to pay. Walk away.

and 'battery' cars...

Actually the Video 2000 was technically vastly superior to VHS. I had one for a while and was impressed by the ability to smoothly fast-forward and reverse. Unfortunately the public very often are fooled by the financial clout of companies pushing inferior products like VHS.

I replaced timing belt on my previous 1.6tdci. A few days later I noticed a whine when just above tickover. I looked at belt with engine running (upper cover removed) and it looked like it was resonating badly at certain revs. I slackened the tensioner just a tad and it was fine after that. Car was in my family for 50k miles after that with no I’ll effect

The most common cause of battery drain is malfunctions in radios and add-on hi-tech bits like BT adapters. I put the boot top of the list because it was showing definite symptoms, but am not entirely surprised that it turned out to be two separate faults. The Focus has two versions of the Passenger Fuse Box, changed about 2007, I think just before the Mk2a came out. On my 2006 manual, fuse 58 is Audio Modules Battery Supply. It would be fuse 112 in the later fusebox, and in most documentation. Early (Mk2) Fuse Box Later, (Mk2a) Fuse Box (& possibly some late Mk2s)

Have you checked for any air leaks? The engine sounds ok from the video.

Thanks Peter for the thorough explanation! It was helpful. However, finally I managed to solve this mystery. First I took off the boot wall carpit and replugged the black cable which goes into the door lock system. (Applied some WD as well.) It resolved the random opens it seems. However, the IC stayed on again and on Saturday morning my car was dead again. So I took a glimpse through my Ford Manual and found the glovebox fuse diagram which varies from the UK one it seems. And I've found that the fuse 58 was crossed with an X. And guess what? That is the radio. Went down took of the 58th fuse and woala. Two days have passed and my car is sleeping like a baby. I will try to buy a new fuse though and give it a go. Maybe it was just the fuse. So long story short: Ford Focus mk2 Instrument Cluster doesn't sleep problem: My issue was caused by the radio. (Mine has a genuine Sony 6000 CD radio) Took of the fuse 58 (Austrian version) from the glovebox fusebox.

I agree with Isetta & Unofix. But it does not always need rain to trigger it. Once water gets into electronics, whether rain, A/C condensate, or down the cable from the washer pump, it causes long term problems. In dry, warm weather it can dry out, but leave hygroscopic residues on the pcb. Then changes in humidity will cause these residues to become conductive, and sensitive circuits will go haywire. Colder weather, & using the car heater, will tend to evaporate water into the warmed air, which then condenses on colder items. My dashboard misted up on the inside of the clear cover a last week, after starting to drive on a cold morning with a lot of condensation on the windscreen, which I used the heater & A/C to clear, as an example. Carefully examining the pcbs, and in all the connectors, would show if this was a likely problem. Washing with IPA (or other alcohol like meths) can clean the pcbs. A coat of water resistant, electronics quality varnish (conformal coating) would then give some protection, though connector pins & moving parts must be avoided. Some people just use WD40 & swear by it!. It might well work, though I have not tried it on my electronics, and don't know how long it will work for!

I think there are two related reasons for this. Most of my non-ford cars (1960s,70s,80s models) did not have vent grilles right under the windscreen. They used a big hose from near the front bumper, or the grille was in the bonnet. That windscreen grille seems to have come in (on Fords) with the Cortina . Obviously it will make a difference as to whether any smell from the washers will enter the car. As windscreen grilles became common, 'cos they are cheaper to make, I guess, some people probably complained about the smell of methanol / ethylene glycol, and manufacturers responded by adding smelly chemicals to the fluid to mask the anti-freeze smell. I do not recall having a choice of "nice" smells on offer for screenwash in the 80s/90s. Since methanol can cause severe illness, including blindness & kidney failure, it would also have contributed to the virtual elimination of methanol from screenwash, replacing it with the even less pleasant smell of ethylene glycol. Hence the need for a masking smell! A bit more research into the chemicals in screenwash shows that alcohols are still a major ingredient, but now either Ethanol (as in Beer, Wine & Spirits), or (Iso-)Propyl Alcohol. For improved low temperature operation, Ethylene Glycol (as in engine anti-freeze), Propylene Glycol (used in Vaping fluids) or Glycerin can be added. So it is a bit more complex than I suggested!

I don’t know but I am wondering if it is to show you have set a speed limiter of 120kph which is 75mph

Was going to suggest it might be a kms based speed warning as it’s near the speedo but as your temp gauge maxes out at 120C it is probably for over temperature warning as you suggest

Yup,absolutely,move it on,the car is not worth much,no point spending thousands on the thing.Sink it into a much later model.

Smell is probably drawn in via the ventilation/heating system, especially if the inlets are just below the windscreen! I have this with other cars when using scented washer fluid, especially at winter dilutions.

Well I assume it is now overdue to self destruct unless it had the wet belts replaced before 100,000 miles. Ford have a special offer on at the moment "Brand New" Ecoboost 1.0 engines for only £2500 they were at one time about £4000. Of course that does not include fitting which is about 8 to 10 hours and at Ford prices that's about £1200 A second hand ecoboost engine with say about 50,000 miles on the clock will set you back about £1400 - £1700. It would then of course be very wise to get the wet belts replaced before fitting the engine which will cost about another £600 to £800. Plus the cost of fitting and setting it up which will still be £1000 So the real question is should you be thinking of spending that sort of money on an 8 year old car ? Remember even after changing the engine the rest of the car will have still have done over 100,000 miles. What are the brakes like, will the gearbox be OK is the suspension going to last ? I'd do a quick oil and filter change and move it on to one of the many "we buy any wreck .com" companies, and use the money you were going to spend on it to buy something a bit newer and with less miles.

Do keep us updated with the progress. My money is still on the BCM

These DTC codes are usually generated if the wastegate of the turbocharger is not working correctly. The 1.0 ECOboost has a continental turbocharger with a vacuum operated wastegate. The wastgate is powered by an engine driven vacuum pump that is mounted on the cylinder head and actuated by an electronic control valve (boost solenoid). The boost solenoid is fully controlled by the PCM (ECU) If any of the parts involved with the wastegate system fails the wastegate will remain open constantly. In this case the exhaust gasses will be bypassed through the wastegate and the turbocharger will not generate boost. The wastegate itself can easily be checked by applying vacuum to the hose pillar of the wastegate (for example with a vacuum brake bleeder or a large syringe). When applying vacuum the wastegate valve should close. The wastegate valve should remain closed until the vacuum is removed otherwise the wastegate diaphragm is ruptured. The wastegate of the 1.0 ECOboost is not available as a spare part from Ford. In case of a defective wastegate the complete turbo needs to be replaced. As far as I am aware there are no aftermarket wastegates available for these continental turbochragers. The vacuum hoses can easily be visually inspected or vacuum/pressure tested for leaks. The hoses or boost solenoid are not seperately available from Ford as spare parts. Ford only offers a complete kit that includes the vacuum hoses and boost solenoid. This kit costs approximately €250,-. Luckily aftermarket vacuum hoses and an aftermarket boost solenoid (Pierburg) are easily available. Another part of the system that fails quite often is the engine driven vacuum pump (I have seen this quite some times). The part that fails is more exactly the non return valve that is bolted onto the vacuum pump. This non return valve contains a diaphragm that ruptures over time. The non return valve is part of the vacuum pump and not avialable as a spare part from Ford. Luckily aftermarket diaphragms and vacuum pump repair kits are easily available. Another option is to remove the diaphragm and install an inline metal check valve. Probably not related to the DTC codes but on a 1.0 ECOboost it is also highly recommended to inspect the recirculation valve of the turbocharger. On this continental turbocharger the recirculation valve consists of a plastic cover with a rubber diaphragm. This diaphragm is known to deteriorate and rupture. The recirculation valve is available as a spare part from Ford and costs approximately €200,-. This is basically the only part of the turbocharger that is seperately available. As an alternative aftermarket diaphragms are available from China (I do not have any experience with these diaphragms). However a much more durable and permanent solution is to install a Turbosmart recirculation valve. The Turbosmart recirculation valve is fully made of metal (brass cylinder in an aluminium housing) and is much more durable and also cheaper than the plastic/rubber original one.

Hi Mark, this is a Zetec S estate so I don't see why not:

quick ref:

Hi @F0CUE I think you are correct unless the OP has a late registered 2012 model. The alarm options for the Mk3 2013 onwards, is as you say in the menu. See the owners handbook pages 41 and 42 https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/ENUSA_CG3568_Focus_mxcd_og_201301.pdf

Mine is 2014 and it does maybe they changed it.

Yes, it's a minefield unless you can get a look at the paperwork. Another complication as @unofix says is "pre-reg" cars which have been registered by the dealer for some reason - manufacturer bonuses, or impending regulation which would prevent them being sold new after a certain date. My Mrs has one. It was registered by the dealer just prior to TPMS becoming mandatory and had 7 miles on the clock - which she had done anyway on the test drive! It will still be "one previous owner" when we come to sell it, but it was a very good deal at the time and I doubt it will make any difference by then.

There's OCD and there's extreme over the top OCD and then there's those who are crackers 🤣

For an answer, see:

Battery voltage varies with a lot of things, especially time. For several hours after a good charge it will register higher than normal voltage, dropping very slowly, unless a load is applied to bring it down. And similarly, after a heavy load like headlights, it will take quite a while (maybe about an hour) to recover up to its steady voltage. This effect is sometimes referred to as "surface charge". So the 0.1v drop could be just part of that recovery. It would be odd if removing the negative car to battery connection gave a drop in battery voltage, unless either a charger was connected in the car, or the engine was running. (Never disconnect a battery with a running engine, just as a general caution note!.) A good battery, fully charged, should read 12.4v to 12.6v after being left idle for something like 6 to 24 hours. Parasitic current draw can be detected by firmly connecting a multimeter on 10A current range, from battery -ve post to a good earth on the body, and then disconnecting the -ve battery to car wire. (Using a typical multimeter to power up a car after a battery disconnect is likely to blow the 10A fuse that they usually have, due to the current surge as lots of stuff powers up.) Once the meter is connected, it should be possible to change to a more sensitive range without breaking the circuit. It can take a long time (30 mins or so) for the car to power down after almost any disturbance, though. Normal long term draw is typically 10mA to 30mA, for remote control receiver, alarm etc. I like the amusing and informative guide! I know it can be summarised as "Undo the screws and then pull the plastic off!" as someone slightly rudely did. But as Stef said, knowing how, when and where to apply force, and where all the hidden clips are, is a huge bonus. I hate taking trim off the 1st time for that reason. If Haynes went to that depth, each volume would be about 3 feet thick! The black cable almost certainly goes up to the top of the hatch, and through the flexi section to the car. It is that flexi section I was thinking about, wire failures inside those are quite common. As a minor point, all locking & general lighting circuits will go to the BCM (aka GEM, or FJB, or Passenger fuse box). The BCM talks to the IC over the MS-CAN bus, telling the IC to light the door ajar LED for one thing among many. But your comment about the light coming on on bumps changes it a bit, it is more likely to be a problem in the latch mechanism, including the door ajar sensing microswitch which is part of it. I am fairly sure that on my boot, closing the latch using a screwdriver but with the tailgate left open will put out the boot light and the door ajar warning LED. Thus the sensing is of the latch movement, not the tailgate itself.