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Yep. I have been in touch with Tunnel Rat, and I can return the wireless module and exchange it for the USB module. Thanks for the advice.

ditto !!

Just got round to watching it, nice to see a local boy, reporter (Darragh Macintyre) on the job, his work on NI investigative show, 'Spotlight', has been excellent. It does state the bleedin' obvious though, there is NO 'green car'! Cobalt mining is a horrendous industry, however, the 'lithium' that all these cars use in abundance isn't a joyful thing either. (The 'west' will probably end up invading Afghanistan in the future too to protect this now increasingly valuable resource) But the thing is, yes, 'green activists' scream from the rafters that there is no pollutants from the tail pipe, but gloss over the enormous environmental harm collating the ingredients to get one of these atrocious machines on the road in the first place. I can happily drive my 16 year old pile of cr*p for the rest of my days and still have a lower carbon footprint than the creation of a single new battery car. I'll be dead by the time developed world governments wake up to the actual environmental harm they have caused the planet in human suffering, and actual devastation caused by over mining . Still, with every passing day, my mantra of, 'I told you so', sadly just gets stronger...

I can't remember if the Fusion pump uses the single-use PAS pipe that has to be replaced along with the pump. If not, it's pretty simple to do, pry off the stretch belt, remove 3 bolts and 2 pipes/unions, then swap the pumps over and refit in reverse. Refill the reservoir and turn lock to lock a few times with the engine running to bleed the system.

It is the BCM [Body Control Module] that suffers from problems with water ingress caused by the screen wash pump. The BMS [Battery Monitor System] is practically bomb proof, it is hermetically sealed, you could jet wash it if you like. It's not a very clever unit, just a calibrated current shunt which can also detect the flow of current in to, or out of, the battery.

Another alternative if you have already bought the phone App is to keep the wireless adaptor in the car, it will pay for itself the first time your car develops a fault when you are away from home and don't have your Laptop with you, that is what a lot of us do. Incidentally the wireless ones that Tunnelrats sell can see all the Modules exactly the same as the wired ones. You will need a wired one though. Theoretically you could use the wireless one with your Laptop but it will most probably be too slow to do programming and may brick your car. The wireless ones are safe for everything else except programming.

That's probably why they don't fit your car 🤣 maybe you can sell the one you ran over on eBay ???? 🤣

Hi Sharon, so if the ground connection is good on both sides then it is reasonable to suspect that there is no 12V positive getting to the lamp when the indicators are on. The supply and control for the indicators comes from the BCM (body control module) which is part of the fusebox located behind the glovebox. On some models there is an issue with water ingress in to the connectors of the BCM causing corrosion of the pins in the plugs and sockets. Disconnect the negative lead of the battery before checking but you need to remove all the connectors from the BCM and check for signs of water and/or greenish corrosion of the pins.

Hey, the H7 halogens are absolutely shocking. Most people replace them with LED upgraded lamps, and there is no issue with heat or housing failure - provided you buy decent ones. CANbus is simply the cars own electrical system, it monitors the current draw and if it senses an issue then it throws up an error light on the dash that there is a bulb out (simplified explanation). The LEDs you replace the halogens with needs to be CANbus compatible, basically it has a built in resistor that fools the system into thinking the LED is drawing more power than it is. Are you aware that the front bumper needs to be removed to replace the lamps? Worst design I've ever seen, so if you are doing 1 set of lamps then you are best doing them all. So w5w sidelights, H7 dipped beam, H15 high beam/DRL and H11 fog lamps. I admin a Mk5 Mondeo FB page, we have a member who owns an automotive lighting company who has supplied the majority of our members that do upgrades. You are more than welcome to join and see if we can help. Jon https://www.facebook.com/groups/693277794183606/?ref=share

Hi Paul, as said above the Wifi version does not allow programming encase communication is lost at a critical moment. You need the Modified ELM327 lead (£17.95) - This lead does the Medium Speed and High Speed Canbus https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

Auto's before Face Lift (up to approx 2010) are AWF21 Facelift Onwards are Getrag Powershift MPS6 DCT both petrol and diesel EXCEPT the 2.2 Diesel which retained the AWF21 I am talking UK market, don't know about others Also UK market calls the Facelift a MK4.5

Yes pal, that will only talk to the one CAN network, most of the vehicle's modules won't show up

No mate, not really. You need, at least, a good quality wired ELM327 with a CAN switch to switch between networks. Tunnel Rat is raved about and not expensive

Probably needs a software update on the HCM, especially as you are a 2018. Probably a good idea, as you're about to go out of warranty, to get them to update all the modules

The West had their chance and overlooked the “lithium”opportunity:it’s all about China now.

Hello Paul, I would be happy to do it for you if you ever find yourself near Durham. If you have a laptop then it is easy for you do to yourself.

Absolutely correct.A cover is just not recommend,they can do a lot of damage to paint work,very fine scratches,from the material picking up grit contaminates(I have had this happen).Dust,dirt is easy to hose down,scratches are not.Save your money.Both my vehicles are ceramic coated,one was done professionally,the other one I did.The guy who did my coating on our Honda said do not bother with a cover,they do to much damage.

If you can bear the pedantry, if memory serves it was 10mm lower at front and 8mm at the rear 🤓 & Ford did claim a fractionally lower drag factor. My 2011 econetic broke both its rear springs, at different times - for one of them my dealer had to source the replacement from Germany so it's a bit depressing to hear supplies are still scarce when it seems a fairly common fault....

So just an update, nothing has been changed but the issue has now disappeared. I haven’t changed anything apart from the cambelt but the issue was still there after I had changed. But I do remember giving it a good blast on the motorway so maybe that might have cleared it up. Thanks fo everyone help and info.

It is literally on the forscan website: https://forscan.org/comparsion.html

Looks like a wheel arch liner to me, new ones aren’t expensive, also readily available on eBay. You’ll need to sort all the clips too, so your local ford dealer could be the easiest option. Should be straightforward to fit if you can get the wheel off. Local dealer or independent shouldn’t charge too much at all.

Don't even bother buying, like others have said 😳 They can wreck the paintwork, I purchased a full cover and our car was covered over for only two months, only removed the cover to turn over the engine and get everything hot, I then wound down all the windows & opened all doors to allow all the hot air to vent out, then I spotted it!!! 🤨 and spotted more!!! 🤨 and even more!!! 😭..........When the cover had been moving in the wind, unbeknown to me the moving of the cover had been brushing on the paintwork, causing massive areas which was now a matt effect, it was really bad on the bonnet & roof, the wheel arches also had been rubbed, I was gutted and it took me a several days to get all the matt effect off the paintwork, had to use 2000 grade wet & dry paper to even out the bad matting, then the polishing had to be done. I ripped up the car cover in a fit of rage 🤬 🤬 If you do buy a cover, then only use it if the car is garaged and not out in the open.

There are no contacts on the transponder chip, it is just a sealed item. They do not require battery power to work. The battery in the keyfob is only for the remote lock/unlock

Excellent 😀 👍 Thats the transponder chip. All you need to do is transfer that to the new keyfob 🙂 You will still need to programme up the lock / unlock buttons but thats easy !!

In that case the maps will be on the SD card in the arm rest. In order to get updated maps you'll need a new SD card with the latest version which at the moment is F9 I believe.