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I have only just done Driving Diversity, Equity and Inclusion training this afternoon at work. 2 hours I will never get back.

I use mer because I bought a big bottle of it at least 30 years ago and it’s not yet finished. I don’t do much polishing . Wonder if the formula is the same now? Any good stuff in it might have been outlawed - like you can’t get decent paint stripper any more and hammerite is not as good as it was, but I haven’t finished my 30 year old 2.5 litre tin of black hammerite yet. It’s nearly all gone , it goes a bit gooey and needs a drop of cellulose thinners. Tin looks like it’s about to rust through.

Following might be of interest: https://www.whatcar.com/news/ford-ecoboost-engine-recall-–-what-you-need-to-know/n17972 https://pumaspeed.co.uk/product-Pumaspeed-Bulletproof-16-EcoBoost-Engine-Block_17863.jsp Again for perspective I have owned examples of both (and still have a 1.0) with no issues.

Yeah I'll still be hanging round these forums despite not having a Ford at the moment. Put about 400 miles on the Mazda so far and it's shaping up to be a really good car. Build quality and interior are excellent.. Still running it in so taking it carefully (says 600 miles in the manual) so not sure how it's going to be performance wise. Think it's needs to be kept on the boil a bit compared to the 140 ecoboost engine but I'm not taking it over 3500rpm yet. So far it's indicating about 50mpg so pretty good for a 2 litre engine and I'm buzzing around towns more at the moment rather than my usual commute. I'm hoping for 55mpg + on my commute and maybe closer to 60mpg when the weathers warmer. Yeah I'm getting panic attacks driving the Mazda at that spot now. It's a dodgy corner as people come flying down the hill too fast into a left hand bend and the road is fairly narrow, they run wide and it doesn't leave a lot of a margin for error.

At this rate, you'll need to look for a yet another car to replace the one you've worn out looking for this one!😀

safety related item- at least highbeam should still behave... if you remember in your panic, but I'd have gone with the brand I recco'd (each to their own) how can u lose a post ? - they remain highlighted through the forum, its NOT even cookie related on a given machine - works 100% for me as for legality UK MOT was rewritten to allow MOT boys to pass motorbikes with illegal LEDs last year - so as they are at eye level and bounce about due to short wheelbase and the fact Mercs are allowed to blind everyone - I think it won't take much to win in court - drive out of control as can't see or drive safely - not much a dilemma for most people

My fault LOL I meant the colour of your car!

Small update. The new wheels and tyres are on! Everything fit without any issue. There was a scare of the lug nut head not fitting the rim design - so that is something to look out for. Fortunately one mechanic goofed and it turned out everything was fine.

** update ** As Ian said it is a drain hole. The cause for fuel leaking is due to the rail itself , or the seals on the injectors. I will post my findings on what is actually leaking later today when I've got back onto the car, Thanks. I've attached a picture of the drain hole from the spark plug side, to show.

As this thread has been really helpful to me in sourcing this fault, I thought I'd share how I fixed it on mine. My EML had been on and off a few times, but the P02E4 fault code was continuous when read with ForScan. The car ran perfectly other than the EML and a broken wire would have been my last thought for the issue! After changing the Throttle Body and confirming that the fault code re-appeared (a previous attempt to fix at a main dealer had previously replaced the TV and also replaced the EGR Valve), this left two possibilities - broken wire or faulty / corroded ECU. To check both of these I decided to get to the ECU where I could check for corrosion and find the other end of the loom. The ECU sits in the Left hand (passenger side) wheel arch below the front light cluster. To remove, both bottom trays (the large one and the one that attaches to the front bumper), and the wheel arch liner need to be removed. Three bolts attach the plastic box that the ECU sits inside. You will need to remove some of the connectors and clips that hold the loom in place to drop it far enough down to work on. The hardest job is getting to the ECU itself as it is riveted inside a plastic case - you need to drill out the five rivets to open the box, but they are quite soft so not as hard as I thought it was going to be. Once inside, you will find 3 large block connectors - I removed them all and checked for any corrosion first but there was none - the connectors have a seal so it would take some serious flooding for corrosion to occur. The plastic case itself is not watertight and not designed to be, but will protect the ECU from the worst of any water ingress and dirt. The wires from the Throttle body all run back to the brown connector (to answer a previous question in this thread, they appear to go direct from the TV to the ECU). The two motor wires are easy to trace as they are visible at the top of the connector - the other three sensor wires are harder to trace in the block, so this was a bit trial and error. i've attached a pic for each wire location. My electrical knowledge is minimal, so I set my multimeter to just test continuity and probed each wire with a pin inserted into the connector at each end of the loom. My issue was continuity of the thicker Blue-Green wire that powers the motor itself. The thicker wires seem to be the common ones to break, opening up the loom you will see that this and the thicker Yellow-Violet wire are wound around each other. After removing the airbox and battery tray, I decided rather than try and find the break (the loom fits really tightly above the gearbox and is not easy to get to and inspect), I would just splice in a new wire, following the loom back from the ECU to the Throttle Body. Happy to report the DTC has now gone - the telltale was when turning the key to on without starting the car now makes a buzz coming from the TV that previously wasn't there.

Like this

so now on your third post for the same topic and you bought the wrong brand

Whenever I see/hear similar scenes I always think it's someone trying to bypass the meter with a bit of inner tube and a leak occurred. I'm sure it's not always the case though.

This is the problem in my opinion- it is always more likely to be the horror stories that make it online, and even on here there are one or two people who will not hesitate to make an 'ecoboom' jibe at Every. Single. Opportunity. It can get wearing and it paints a false picture and can sound worrying to some, but as Eric says, you have to bear in mind just how many of these engines are happily on the road.

Hi, All, Just used FORScan + Modified ELM327 cable (recommended by unofix, thanks) to get all the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) as shown below: The dashboard when I ran the Forscan software is shown below: There are 8 DTCs for Transmission Control Module (TCM) BUT the status for them is the same: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC This might be because the car broke down a few years ago due to the stuck shift actuator (the car is a semi auto with a gear shif actuator) and I cleared the shift actuator to solve the issue (but did not clear any error codes caused). Now the car runs ok without any transmission issues. The Code: B1318 - The battery voltage level is too low. Status: Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request. Recently I recharged the battery because its voltage was too low to start the engine. The Code: U0146 - Lost Communication With Gateway A. Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request and - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC. The Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With The Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module. Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request and - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC. Please help: how to deal with the 8 error codes with TCM and the last 2 error codes regarding lost communication? The car runs ok so far. Thanks.

Despite Royal Mails best efforts with a 6 day consecutive break (2 x days strike, 2 x days weekend, 2 x days holiday), my bulbs arrived yesterday. On bench testing them, they are blindingly bright! When the weather eases off (stops raining), I'll get round to fitting them and will report back here. I do like that the physical size of the LEDs equate to a standard H7, so at least they should fit with no issues...

Hi, I have a mk7 2012 Fiesta Zetec manual and am having trouble getting the coolant cap off. I know there are issues with some people on the forum saying they can get the cap off but it leaves some of it in the coolant reservoir, but my issue is that I can't actually get it off at all. When I turn it anti clockwise, I can feel it releasing pressure from the thread but then as I keep turning it in the same direction it starts tightening again. Is there some trick to it? Hoping not to have to replace the cap as a non genuine one is $76nzd (40 pounds!) at our local Repco parts centre. Water line is just below min too so I better get it filled (I suspect that when I have been taking it in for it's oil change, they havent been topping up the water as they can't get it off! Thanks

Try this: ford.7zap.com Insert the VIN and off you go.

Ford etis is still functioning for now, they delayed the switch of due to issues in the new site. ETIS still shows all info of new and old cars for the moment. That’s not gone and you can still see it for software changes, updates and and the garage does. you can also see Sync update pending as well if you haven’t done the, I still prefer ETIS over the new site tho. But ETIS is old now and no longer to a point of being fast enough for the new world of Ford and Electric Vehicles.

@Coley666 I’ve spoke to Ford and the iso-fix caps were removed by Ford earlier in 2022. They said no one is bothered about them any more. just me then lol. Yep you can download the manual on both sync 4 and in the app. Just feels strange not to have any manuals any more. But that’s progress I assume. loving my car tho. It feels much better made and more so.I’d thank my 2020 focus. Really happy with it. how you getting on.

Thank you for the replays! I managed to remove the cap by hand after following one of the solutions from this post: With the engine cold, I first loosened the cap as much as possible(almost one turn). Then I let it sit in that position for one minute. The I tried to loosen it some more(almost a quarter of a turn). I repeated this step again after one minute untill I made 2 complete turns. Then it started to loosen after each try. I spent quite some time waiting but eventually it came off in one piece. I replaced only the cap because I had a new one. As others suggested, I added some silicone grease on the two orings to prevent it from getting stuck. The tank has some fine cracks around the base of the cap but seems to hold presure and I am not loosing coolant so I am not sure if it needs replacing. I will post an image tomorrow.

Not a chance of me apologising for something I haven't said. Will see what happens tomorrow but at the moment it's still in the HR capable hands 🙄

It is getting to feel that way. The MGF is entertaining enough but it doesn't like crosswinds. It is also far from practical in most other respects. I might yet have to settle for something I don't really want and expect the perfect car to appear a week later for sale in the next street!

I think the retaining clips are fitted back to front aren’t they? The bit which sticks out holds the inside surface of the outer lip of the shiney metal hub cover. Perhaps I’m wrong but I did have a mk3 ghia with those hub covers in the 1990s. Does unofix agree?

I don't like getting older, but one thing I relish about being an OAP is not having to listen to that sort of cr*p!😀

This is more like what you have, or did have, hopefully you still have the piece it fits too.

And we know what Dirty Harry said about personnel:

What clicks, is it the starter solenoid mounted on the side of the starter motor or a lesser click from a relay somewhere else?

Ah good shout thank you, seems pretty decently priced compared to MT, and yeah my warranty is well past expired. Also just checked with the insurer and the grant total for the change would be £31.67 including the £25 admin fee!

Indeed they are...🤣 If I were you, I wouldn't fit them!

No, but I see Superchips offer a similar increase at around £260 at the mo. The advantage of Mountune was that some of their upgrades were Ford approved and retained warranty but afaik this is no longer the case. I guess yours will have expired (or nearly) anyway unless you have an extended warranty.

New info... Have discovered that when you examine 'contacts' on laptop, under settings there is an 'undo' option. I rolled back my contacts by 30 days and all my labels have now reappeared. I have now printed all my contacts (over 300) on a PDF so at least I now have an emergency physical backup. I still have no idea why they disappeared in the first place, and as previously stated, this is not the 1st time it's happened, so any advice for future use would be welcome. (If you ever wanted to install Windows 3.1 on your PC, I'm your man, but all this modern Google stuff just bewilders me...)

Timing belt, water pump, idle and tensioner pulleys, and fan belt and pulleys should have been done in 2022 as the interval is 10 years or 125,000 miles, whichever occurs first. If you can see no firm evidence that this has been done then I would suggest you budget for that too. My Mondeo 2.2 cost me £600 from a Ford dealer with Ford parts in 2021. I've also noticed that a lot of 2nd hand dealers are currently not mentioning the timing belt situation unless it's been done I suspect it may of had DPF regen problems during it's life if it's only covered 53K mile in 10 years. If you begin to experience any regen problems then it's highly likely that the Vaporiser is the culprit; could be blocked or have a failed glow plug inside it, or it's little fuel pump, fuse or wiring issues. But, it might have been changed previously so you might be ok. EGR failure can occur and cause DPF regen problems but I don't think it's common. The EGR should be self cleaning (It is on my 2.2), you should hear it after you turn off the engine. If it's had front lower arms then keep an eye on the rear trailing arm bushes, handling will feel weird when cornering and the rear tyres will wear unevenly. My car felt like it was over steering then under steering all in one corner, felt worse when turning in to a junction sharply. New bushes are about £35 each (Part only) but a special tool is needed to remove and re-insert them and not all garages have it. The alternative is to change the whole trailing arm which is £300+ per side (part only, price may have changed over the years too though).

Thanks 🙂

have you plugged it in with forscan not all power train light issues lead to gear box, for example i had that light when having injector issues. first step to take would be get it scanned and see what codes it comes back with.

Yes I know those wheels 👍 See: https://www.motomobil.com/en/products/wheel-cap-small-for-steel-wheel-with-ford-oval-160mm-60696241-1-h £8.98 + VAT each

We are a market gardening town with ample supply of the offensive vegetable

Everyone here has just answered your question and told you that it's not odd. But it's your choice...

Hello Guys! Thought I would give my thoughts on my car now that I have a few miles under my belt & the car has been driven on various roads. The power delivery in the automatic is really good, not faced any lag when i put my foot down & gear selection is spot on. My tyres were over inflated, I now have them to the correct psi, so the ride is now excellent even with the 19s. No issues with the entertainment console, it's runs smoothly on both Sync4 and android auto. The B&O system is great when running well, but i have noticed some distortion on the left front passenger side, i will continue to monitor. Those Matrix LEDs are amazing, better than the intelligent lighting on my xc90, trust me volvo do good lights. Radar cruise and Lane centering are great too. Overall, I am impressed, it ticks so many boxes for me as a 2nd smaller family car. Focus ST (uk) auto - performance pack, blis, driver assistance pack.

When mine was stuck I drove it to get the engine hotter to create sum pressure in the coolant to help push the cap upwards. You need to be very careful if you do it this way, you could get scalded by steam and boiling water and lose a load of coolant that needs replacing. BE CAREFUL****.VERY CAREFUL

Just incase anyone was wondering, I ended up getting the problem sorted by getting a new key.. I decided to get a new key made and reprogrammed since the key seemed like the issue and I only had one key anyway (always nice to have a spare), and ever since, with the 2nd key it's worked perfectly... I was told that the first key, which I was given with the car, had very obvious signs of water damage upon close inspection which would explain the temporary working

Pleased you have it working again. It would be helpful if you completed your profile for the future so we can easily see what model and year you have.

Great news, got it connected and working with the central locking. Put in my existing key and turned ignition to II and back to 0 four times and then the car chimed, pressed the unlock button on my new key a couple times and the car chimed to say it was connected. Turned ignition to II and back to 0 once more to exit programming mode. And now its working fine unlocking/locking the car with double clicks of the buttons. One thing I noticed is all doors have to be closed to enter the programming mode, which caught me out and I was stuck trying to think of what it was haha! Cheers guys for your help 🙂

The fault is the microswitch in the passenger door lock is sticking. The car will not lock (or will unlock) if the microswitch is in the open circuit possition. You could remove the door lock and strip it and clean the microswitch, but it is a pain to do. probably better just to buy a second hand lock.

You are correct that you can fix the key yourself thus depriving Ford of their cheeky profits. Buy a new blank key off ebay, swap the RCL circuit part of the new key to your existing working parts (blade and battery side with the transponder chip on it then programme it yourself. As long as you ensure you have the original transponder chip (the glass tube which is a Texas Crypto ID4D-63 type) and original key blade you will be fine. Programming procedure- 1. Insert Key and turn to II, then Turn Key from II to I and back to II four times within 3 seconds 2. The PATS LED (Flashing immobiliser light) should light up to denote that the programming phase is unlocked. Turn Key to Position 0. 3. Press the Unlock button and keep it pressed until the PATS LED flashes 4 times. 4. Turn to II and back to 0 to end.