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Slower, heavier and uglier?

To add to Tom's excellent advice, I would also have the Accelerator Position up on FORScan too. When reviewing the Info later it might show that you were doing 2000 rpm and 50 mph at a certain point, but that may have been coasting downhill or accelerating up one, so it makes more sense if you know the Engine Load at that point also. Take some Screenshots of the readings at Idle, cruising and under hard acceleration and post them. I don't know if you have erased the Codes and if any apart from the DPF one have come back, but if you go into the Codes in FORScan it will tell you if the problem is still present or an old code and whether that particular code is making the Check Engine Light come on. The other thing to note is that if you have an aftermarket Pressure Sensor then that may be your problem, they are not the same quality and some of them are not compatible. I would not normally swap parts on a guess but in this case if the readings in FORScan point to a fault, a cheap used Pressure Sensor with the same part number from a Breakers may be a good Idea to try. FORScan will also give you a brief description of the Code, which is the same one that we could all access in ETIS before they stopped public access to it. Personally I would disagree with Tom and do the Data Logging with the Check Engine Light off in case the readings are skewed because the car is in Limp Mode. It is not that important though and may not make any difference to the readings.

Emission regs wouldn't allow it nowadays but you can just inject on both strokes until it starts. Don't forget these aren't direct injection, so the fuel isn't particularly well metered (compared to DI) and won't end up in the cylinder until the inlet valve opens. The fuel and air is drawn in together only during the intake stroke. Wasted spark means you'll get a spark at every rotation as well, so cam position isn't relevant for that either. Many older engines would run a default map without a cam input, but this has to be the newest engine I've seen without one as standard. It was initially designed over 30 years ago though.

Well in my case the parts will need to be brand new seeing as the car is 2 months old 😏

If they go for a Vignale badge they can make it look newer and better!

You are probably right, but ..... if the OP goes for the slanted (not Chinese 😉) badge, they can make their car look newer 😀

In my opinion the 1.5 will be better for two reasons. (1) as mentioned the 1.0 has a wet timing belt which has a poor track record and can fail long before it should. (2) asking a little 1.0 Ecoboost to drag round a Focus size car is likely to be frustrating to drive and may lead to it been driven hard to achieve what feels like acceptable performance.

Update- Other drivers insurance accepted full liability, seeing as my car was parked & unmanned they couldn't do anything but. Car was collected thursday afternoon so now I have to wait for the assessment to be done to see what the next steps are likely to be. Looking at the wheel geometry while on the recovery vehicle it appears that the lower wishbone was bent so hopefully no strut damage. Now we wait and see.

Your Local Environmental Health Department may be able to help for either a nuisance smell or a Health related one and may be able to force your Landlord to Investigate unless the legislation is different in England. It is difficult for me to comment on your last paragraph without seeing your house in person, but It is almost certain that the External Cavity Walls will be intact except for any necessary penetrations and the False Wall or large Pipe Box as I would call it will inside this. Any water is much more likely to exit internally through the Plasterboard than externally through at least one skin of Brickwork.

You cannot have a tyre that is 100% in all areas of it’s performance aspects.You might have brand ‘X’ that has fantastic wet weather performance, but handling or wear rates might not be as good.There is always a trade off some were..Very soft performance tyres usually have very average wear rates.Check out the latest ‘Tyre reviews’ on YouTube.(Michelin Sport 5, Continental premium contact 7, Goodyear Eagle Asymmetric 6, Hankook Ventus, Bridgestone & the Yokohama Advan) all superb tyres, but all have different characteristics in every area.

I am in Frome, Somerset. I have a 2016 Ford Mondeo, 2 litre diesel, estate.

There are 3 different ones depending on which engine you have.

Hi welcome

My Puma ST.... had it since end of Feb. The Mrs StLx is on the way to the UK and she only ordered it in March.

I'd probably fit Genuine Ford bought directly over the counter at the local Ford dealers.

It was the MAP sensor.

Another option is just to vote with your wallet and don’t buy a new Ford. i20n and i30n are still being manufactured. When I need to replace my ST and Ford only offer Puma and Kuga then I won’t buy Ford.

Given what we know now I can't say I'd have much enthusiasm for either in a Focus size car with the use intended. I'd incline more to a 2.0 diesel if the financial figures can be made to stack up in your location.

Both of those engines have common issues with the cooling system which can lead to engine failure. Days are gone where bigger engines are automatically more reliable than smaller ones. Each engine has to be considered individually. The 1.0 engine uses a wetbelt (timing belt in oil) which adds another potential failure point to those.

I don't actually know if it's possible for your model, your BCM may not support the extra functions. The best thing would be to get FORScan and a vLinker FS lead and connect up. Check both the IPC and the BCM to see what functions are available. If your friend will let you connect to their car then you can compare the two models. If it looks possible you will need to get the additional hardware.

I was reading an article about that recently. It suggested that insurers stipulate that the used part be no older than the vehicle being repaired, in line with the principle of insurance being to put you back in the position than you were in before the accident. It seemed to be more about speeding up repairs in view of parts shortages, rather than cost cutting as such, though it should do that by reducing use of replacement hire cars, etc.

There are 2 buttons for turning these lights on and off. The main one being the most obvious and the second being the reading light itself. Push the lense cover of the reading light that is staying on. Once in the off position the lights should return to working normally when the door is opened and closed.

I have ordered something similar to that but it's not really a solution. I'm also concerned about whether it is 'just' a smell or whether there's anything in it that could be detrimental to health over a long exposure. We have a letting agent that works on behalf of the landlord but that's not an option. All I'll say on that is that their processes aren't inclusive. (Had no end of problems here, can't wait to move, but that's also virtually impossible in my situation.) The majority of the pipework is hidden in a wall void, so there could be a leak in there that no-one would be able to see internally. I'm not really sure where the leak would come out if it was building up in the void. Possibly through the brick wall above the damp course? But as I can't get downstairs quickly, I can't go out to check when the smell is at it's peak.

At the time of my reply you hadn't said what engine your car had, but you had said: I was simply pointing out that the mileage is often of little importance to the reliability of a cambelt and there are countless examples of cambelts which have failed at around 18,000. As I've already said it was unfortunate that the cambelt failed when it did. Would you have felt better if it had failed the next morning when you started the car ?

Giving cars an 'easy life' isn't the positive that people think... Means that when they get to MOT, they get a massive shock having the nuts revved off them to purge the exhaust before the smoke test. The MOT manual does state that testers are meant to refuse the car if the cambelt is in poor condition or if the belt is overdue, but I've never known a tester to actually check that. People would complain if they did, and the vast majority of belts won't snap during the test, so they take the risk. You have been unlucky, as the 2.0 TDCI belts are generally reliable and will usually outlive the 10 years, but equally it is now due, and you've even told us the engine doesn't get used properly, so was likely on it's last legs. There often aren't any warning signs before a belt snaps.

So let me clarify, you can either have good wet weather handling, OR, a good wear rate, but not both? 🤣

Not sure what difference that makes. Ford make both the Transit and the Mustang, doesn't make them comparable in any way. The biggest problem with Rainsports is the wear rate. Not an issue for a low mileage driver, but I couldn't recommend them to a business user.

Bit off topic, but I have just noticed Citroen(Australia) have recalled 632 of its C3 Aircross, C3 & C4 Cactus in regards to the Wet belt degrading due to aged engine oil.

No need to remove the headlining. Just drill the holes in the roof (if not already there) fit the 'Nutserts' with the appropriate tool and screw the roof rails on. For future reference, when posting eBay links you only need the first section up to the "?" https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164163376392

I expect it should be full of ford green PAS fluid - if he used the red rubbish the pump will further self destruct as running it dry has just about wiped it out already - and this old red rubbish was never meant to have been in there (but, double check correct specs listed in the handbook - which note may not agree with wot the lazy manu plant did using up of stocks when it was likely wrongly built....) red rubbish overheats and becomes a nice silver grey mess inside 6 months - whereas the ford green will stay happy for a further >5 years

Is that your registration or the registration of the donor vehicle ?

I have experience of 2 x different windscreen mounted DAB aerials. Both have been simply awful. My issue was solved by a £10 Halfords DAB MagMount aerial. Not the prettiest, but I'd have functionality as a priority any day...

Your Ford trailer module software is either not configured or is has been incorrectly configured. The BCM needs to know that the vehicle now has a towbar and that a trailer module is connected.

MY WIFE HAS AN 04 CMAX 1.6TDCI AND I WENT TO TOP UP THE WASHER FLUID AND THE BONNET WOULD NOT OPEN. I TURN THE KEY LEFT AND RIGHT BUT THE BONNET DOES NOT POP UP. I HAVE BEEN ON A NUMBER OF FORUMS BUT THERE IS NO CLEAR ANSWER. SOME SAY ATTACK THE GRILL WITH A HACKSAW TO ACCESS THE LOCK. OTHERS SAW DRILL TWO HOLES BEHIND THE FORD BADGE TO ACCESS TWO SCREWS WHICH YOU THEN DRILL OUT. A THIRD MENTIONS REMOVING THE PLASTIC TRAY UNDERNEATH THE FRONT OF THE BUMPER AND OPENING THE LOCK WITH A BENT PIECE OF WIRE. THIS IS OBVIOUSLY A COMMON FAULT ON ALL FOCUS'S. HAVE YOU HAD THIS PROBLEM AND HOW HAVE YOU SOLVED IT? CHEERS MARTIN

I was having the same problem, the technique in this short video opened my bonnet almost instantly:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PFXUu-vjlM In case the YouTube video ever disappears, I will describe the technique, which is basically pushing down on the bonnet above the key as you turn key anti-clockwise, then release the pressure on the bonnet and bonnet should pop up about 1-2cm, then pull up on the bonnet, re-insert key and turn clockwise whilst pulling up and it should open.

04 Cmax tdci cvt Ghia I had the same problem with the bonnet lock. I found posts suggesting smashing the grill to remove the broken lock. This seemed to be a bit drastic so I had a closer look at my car. The part that had broken was the bowden cable connecting the key lock to the release mechanism behind the front grill. I solved the problem by pushing the front of the lock back thru the grill, then removing by pulling it away from underneath the car after taking off the plastic sump guard. Then using a large screwdriver and hammer, the old plastic part of the lock can be carfully broken away without damaging the grill. This then reveals a plastic cross which when turned left will release the catch then turning right will open the bonnet. The expensive option is to buy and fit a new lock. I made a bar with a cross cut into the end which I leave in the car with a torch in case I need to open the bonnet in the dark.