Leaderboard

Not since gaining my 20m breast stroke swimming badge have I been so proud! 😀

You also gotta love Rowan for another fact. He holds the UK record for the highest monetary car insurance claim of £910,000 when he crashed his McLaren F1 in 2011 - legend!

I agree but just thought other people must have a way of cleaning it, and it would be easier to ask on here and do it myself. I might try the WD40 approach and see what happens. If the windows fall out or the car blows up I'll report back and recommend you don't try that! 😂

Unofix must be slipping!

I find it somewhat amusing the 'statement that the belt was intended to last the lifetime of the engine'. As I see it, the statement is still very much correct. The wet cam belt does last the lifetime of the engine and when it fails the engine life has ended. Is what is being implied that it would be fine for the engine to fail and come to the end of its life so long as the problem is not the wet cam belt?

Not from my understanding. When the engine launched it was for the life of the engine. No service interval. That’s why it’s so hard to change as it was never designed to be changed.

The paid for phone versions of FORScan with a correct Wireless Adaptor are very easy to use and for diagnostic work including Data Logging it knocks spots of anything else for Ford cars. You can't do programming or a very few of the more dangerous Service Functions with the phone version though. Here is a link to the relevant page in the official FORScan site. Anything you buy off an auction site that claims to be "made for FORScan" or something similar is not an official product and is highly likely to not work correctly. https://forscan.org/download.html You only need a Licence if you want to do programming with the Windows version or want support.

With those readings the problem is likely to be either a faulty Sensor, faulty Wiring or connector or a PCM fault rather than anything being wrong with your DPF. To put things in perspective, with a lot of cars if the Differential Pressure goes above 15 Kpa for a certain amount of time then the PCM will flag a Fault and will not allow a Static Regeneration to happen for safety reasons.

Might have found one thats a ford genuine from a scrappy, hopefully I can grab that as it's a faction of the price then go from there 👍

Yes, it was more or less repeated in today's Sunday Times also. His point about just keeping existing cars going longer is very valid. I must say here that (in addition to your 8,000 likes award) I'll award you another for your services in preserving Mk 2 Focuses!😃 Also in the ST today on a similar theme was a piece by Dominic Lawson in which he lays into the Drax biomass burning racket which I keep banging on about. It looks as if Ofgem may be finally on the case but I'm not holding my breath.

Something is seriously wrong with that differential pressure reading. Started ok at idle. But 819kPa is ridiculous lol. And the fact that it seems to be all or nothing for most of the journey is definitely wrong. I'd suspect the sensor is either a cheap pattern part or the wrong one for this car.

Hello Zak, I'm not familiar with the Ford model Hargreaves, but I expect it's similar to a Focus 😉 Have you checked the actual RKE module and the aerials ? There have been a few cases of these modules becoming intermittent and eventually failing. This is a link to the Ford parts for your model: https://catalogs.ssg.asia/ford/?lang=en#bWFya2V0PT1ldXJvfHxjYXRfaWQ9PTExMTA0fHxjYWJicj09R0NCNHx8dGhrPT0zfHxzdD09NDB8fHN0cz09eyIyMCI6IkV1cm9wZSIsIjMwIjoiRm9jdXMgQ0I0IDIwMDgtMjAxMSIsIjQwIjoiNCBFbGVjdHJpY2FsIn18fERSPT1EUjBDMHx8QlM9PUJTSEMwfHxFTj09RU5HNjB8fGFscGhhPT00fHxXPT1XQUVHQjA%3D Special note for @TomsFocus Normal service restored 🤣

Hi everyone, I'm new to the site but not new to owning a Ford! Currently have a Fiesta ST-Line on a 70 plate (the 125 MHEV version) and just thought I'd say hello. (Excuse the photo but was struggling to get it below the 2MB limit, haha)

Waiter: "How do you like your steak sir?" Sir: "Like winning an argument with my wife." Waiter: "Ah,rare it is then sir."

The French must go food shopping early. I got the last mango in Paris. ___ I'm up in court next week for pinching oats from a farmer's field... I'll probably end up doing porridge........ ___ I have insomnia. My doctor recommended that I dress as Sir Galahad at bedtime as a way of getting a good knight’s sleep. ___ I have insomnia. My doctor recommended that I dress as Sir Galahad at bedtime as a way of getting a good knight’s sleep. ___ Broken quiz machine for sale - no questions asked. ___

Directly above the sump plug and below the oil filter. Not all 1.0EB's have sensors fitted, some just have blanks instead.

Does it have one ? I note your Fiesta Mk8 is a 2020, is it not still under manufactures warranty ?

FORScan is a programme (free for use on windows laptop) which can be used with an ELM327(modified) adapter/cable OR it can be used with the new vLinker FS cable. Stay away form eBay stuff it very often does not work. FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html ELM327(modified): https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/product/usb-modified-with-switch-elm327 OR use the new vLinker FS: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

Window cleaner should take that off, ideally one with a bit of vinegar in it. I'm yet to see an 'acceptable' valet from a dealership. Wish they'd never touched my brand new Focus!

5326629 and ford dealer is your only supplier as I'm aware. I did try looking elsewhere. £26 I think I paid but that was a few years ago. 3xpensive as you only get the little spring with the heavy duty one. If it doesn't bother you just pull the broken spring off. It did bother me as I could feel the difference.

Free or not it should be to an acceptable standard.

I would be inclined to take it back to them and get them to sort it...I assume you paid good money for a professional valet service...

Really interesting article by Rowan Atkinson on electric vehicles. He's not just a 'celebrity;, but has a degree in electrical engineering, and admittedly is a die hard petrolhead, owning many exotic and expensive cars. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2023/jun/03/electric-vehicles-early-adopter-petrol-car-ev-environment-rowan-atkinson

Probably the same issue. I might try a Citroen specialist in my region if and when mine needs doing.Looks a very similar ‘medical’ procedure!

Yes, from what I've seen, the causes of belt degradation in the PSA Puretech are the same as the ecoboost. Changing the belt looks to be just as much fun too!

Hi Australian owner of a MK2 Focus, I think. First car was TE Cortina. Also owned Australian made ED Fairmont. Cheers for the join

Everything has a design life. Even a chain will eventually fail. But if Ford design an engine for let’s say 200k miles before it’s no longer useful that is the intended life of the engine, and how long the components which don’t have intervals are intended last.

If the Sensor is ok it could be a Wiring fault anywhere between the Sensor and the PCM, including any connectors as well as a faulty PCM or Software fault in the PCM. All the above are very difficult to diagnose.

Do you have a 10mm spanner ? Do you know how to operate said spanner ? If yes to both questions then you can disconnect the battery 👍

I'm afraid that's a question no one can answer. I don't get attached to cars so I wouldn't have it done. But I really can't make that judgement for anyone else.

Yeah, it should be more like 8kPa than 800. I'm fairly sure the engine wouldn't even run with that much exhaust restriction, so would say the issue is with the sensor readings rather than a mechanical fault. Best thing to try is swapping the sensor for a decent one and then run the same live tests again. Trouble is, they're super expensive new and genuine. https://shop.ford.co.uk/products/focus-c-max-galaxy-s-max-mondeo-exhaust-dpf-sensor Don't suppose you know anyone else with a diesel Ford around the same age? If so you could borrow their sensor just to confirm the fault.

As far as I know the car should relearn the sensor after 7 miles or so. I'm sure @iantt will be able to give you a more definite answer.

Hi all, I've done 3 pics, all with the engine light off atm. Hopefully will get ones with the engine light on tomorrow 🤣 took me awhile to figure all out. Kind regards Ross

Auto Glym Fast Glass would sort that, or as mentioned above most glass cleaners will do the job.

The Ford factory fitted TPMS wheel sensors are sealed and battery replacement is not an option. They generally last between 7 and 10 years before the battery fails (depending on use). A new sensor from Ford is about £30

I’m sure that’s what he’s was going for when he put his foot down.

From what I can make out on the various videos online, the Puretech does look a bit easier (or should I say slightly less difficult) to do without engine removal, haven't seen mention of a torque multiplier (but might have missed that). Inspection also looks easier: https://garagewire.co.uk/news/technical/dayco-issues-belt-in-oil-technical-update-for-1-2-litre-puretech-engine/

That'll work but you'll find dust will stick to it within hours. I use Meguiars Ultimate Black for all my black trim.

From what I've read the Fiesta has been dropped in favour of developing another new electric car, never thought Ford would ever ditch the name Fiesta but you only have to look in the past how times have changed with the dramatic styling and so has the names....Consul to Granada - Fiesta to Fusion then back to Fiesta - Escort to Focus - Sierra to Mondeo. Welcome to this great forum.

That sound like the early stages of BCM failure due to water ingress. A Focus 2011 is also prone to problems with the instrument cluster, the solder that was used at the time was lead free and now is starting to break up and cause dry joints.

Yeh, I think most dealerships tend to be the same. When I was looking at buying a car I was getting 10 phonecalls and emails a day. Now I've bought one they're not interested. Somebody else mentioned vinegar also so I'll give that a try. Cheers for that 👍🏻

Yeah, that's how the gauge works, just shows 90 unless there's a problem so that drivers don't get worried unnecessarily. On the plus side, both your stat and temp sensor appear to be working fine as it's running at 83c when warm. And as long as it rose smoothly then it looks like we can rule out engine temp as a cause for the rough running. I can see you're reluctant to do it, but I really would urge you to try and get a Ford specific scan on it. There is a whole 'layer' of extra fault codes that generic OBD readers can't pick up. There may not be any, but it only takes one useful Ford specific code to save a lot more time and money swapping parts that may not be faulty.

Scanned the car warming up today. And it warmed up slowly. Although the temperature gauge was reading 90c the code reader was saying 60c.

I did unclip the module, this is what i've found underneath: https://photos.app.goo.gl/prYd45vNbC78KSEt6 So these are the holes which i need to fit the Nutserts into?

To add to Tom's excellent advice, I would also have the Accelerator Position up on FORScan too. When reviewing the Info later it might show that you were doing 2000 rpm and 50 mph at a certain point, but that may have been coasting downhill or accelerating up one, so it makes more sense if you know the Engine Load at that point also. Take some Screenshots of the readings at Idle, cruising and under hard acceleration and post them. I don't know if you have erased the Codes and if any apart from the DPF one have come back, but if you go into the Codes in FORScan it will tell you if the problem is still present or an old code and whether that particular code is making the Check Engine Light come on. The other thing to note is that if you have an aftermarket Pressure Sensor then that may be your problem, they are not the same quality and some of them are not compatible. I would not normally swap parts on a guess but in this case if the readings in FORScan point to a fault, a cheap used Pressure Sensor with the same part number from a Breakers may be a good Idea to try. FORScan will also give you a brief description of the Code, which is the same one that we could all access in ETIS before they stopped public access to it. Personally I would disagree with Tom and do the Data Logging with the Check Engine Light off in case the readings are skewed because the car is in Limp Mode. It is not that important though and may not make any difference to the readings.

First thing we're looking for is a small amount of pressure at idle. If it's 0.0, that'll raise suspicions. Could mean the DPF core has been smashed out, the pipes are damaged, or the sensor is faulty. Second thing we're looking for is the pressure to rise and fall smoothly but noticeably with load on the engine. That's why the speed & RPM inputs are useful. Then we're looking at how high the pressure gets overall, if it's very low even with high engine load, that could also be caused by any of the faults mentioned above. The DPF temperature reading will help us determine if the PCM is attempting to regen at any point during the drive. The exhaust temps get much hotter when it starts to regen. If that temp only lasts for a very short time, we'll know the regen has failed. I'm not expecting to see a regen during the test. There is a lot that can be learned from a bit of live data.

Bit off topic, but I have just noticed Citroen(Australia) have recalled 632 of its C3 Aircross, C3 & C4 Cactus in regards to the Wet belt degrading due to aged engine oil.

Here’s a little photo dump of my 2012 Tit X Sync 3 retrofit (last two photos were the finishing touches, the USB mounting plate and the trim panel along the bottom of the fasica): The shiny bit at the bottom of the screen on the fascia is not standard - my fascia came with a splash type peel of the coating, I decided to strip off the coating on that section completely then polish it up to make it look a bit better. I may put a better condition fascia on at some stage, but I'm perfectly happy with the results.

If they are genuine Ford ones, they are usually manufactured by Mcgard. On production of a decent photo of the lock nuts they can supply a key. You can get in touch with them here... Flyer_Ersatzschluessel_EN_2021.pdf