Leaderboard

Labour time should be 0.7 hrs

Or Cyclist! Yes but in Capitals, bold and underlined

'Pedestrian behind - do you wish to run them over?'

This is one of those jobs that I'd be happy to take to any decent independent garage. The job itself is straight forward, although as Tom says difficult to get at. There is no way I'd be spending the money at at Ford dealers on this occasion. You can buy online a brand new OEM starter motor for around £120 and add on a couple of hours labour at what ever your local garage charges.

I think you'll be surprised how expensive starters are from a main dealer, especially considering Ford don't actually make them. I'd estimate around £200. Bit awkward to change on the 1.0EB as they're behind the engine and above the driveshaft. Would estimate around 2 hours labour. So semi-educated guess would be rough ballpark of £400 all in. This is a job that an indy could do with a decent branded used part for around £100 all in.

I'm hoping that was a joke! at least my car is white, but I wouldn't use bleach on it

James May has reportedly bought the first batch 😂

Lol, you get a long way down the list linked below before you get one that light: https://www.myevreview.com/electric-cars-weight-comparison-chart#:~:text=Electric Cars Weight Comparison Chart ,kg (9259 lb) 37 more rows

Maybe due to the forum's BS filter 🤣 Range anxiety is just one issue with EVs Increasingly, with modern petrol cars, the emissions are now that low that the actual particulate emissions of the tires/brakes have overtaken what comes out the tail pipe. Also, you just can't escape that the mass production of 600Kg Lithium Ion batteries is simply not 'green'. There is no way an infrastructure of chargers will support such a crossover, and this is increasingly talked about in the way that the 2030 deadline is likely to be extended. The increased weight of EVs at approaching 2 tones will deteriorate our roads infrastructure, as well as bridges & car parks. The whole ethos is just ill thought out.

Whilst on manoeuvres, the crew of a naval vessel were getting very bored. The captain decided entertainment was needed. Knowing one of the crew professed to be an amateur magician, he decided to put on a show. During the performance, the ship’s observant parrot gave a running commentary as to how each trick was done, thoroughly unnerving the magician. Rather than give too many secrets away, the magician decided to end his performance prematurely. Reaching into the tails of his coat to ignite the small incendiary smoke screen, he announced, “My next trick will be to make the ship disappear”. Unfortunately, a spark started a fire, which eventually reached the ship’s ammunition, causing the ship to sink. The magician found himself hanging on the end of a piece of floating debris, with the slightly singed parrot on the other. After scanning the horizon for several minutes the parrot said, "OK smart Alec, what have you done with the ship?”

I have just updated mine to 3.4.23088 and F12 maps via the CyanLabs route and it went without a hitch. I haven't regretted doing it this way as mine was originally stuck on 3.0 SYNC via the Ford method. Having said that, I nearly always use Android Auto and Google Maps or Waze anyway as the maps are up to date and traffic is properly dynamic.

You have a problem with that Mr. McEnroe ? 🤣

Back to the Future 😉

In 1949?

I wasn’t aware of that video from several weeks ago. The rear speaker on mine always worked fine but the drivers side went many months ago and couldn’t work out until the weather got warmer and noticed the difference in sound

I understand other brands of charger are available at lower cost?😃

Thanks for your helpful input, as I expected 🙂 So I want to update you (and anyone else who might benefit from my experience). Short story : Car completely undriveable (obvs) - Ford dealer couldn't book it in for a diagnosis for 7 days! Found an independent to do the job for £365 inc VAT - and they did it today. Long story: once they'd fitted the new starter motor and it still wouldn't start, they discovered that it didn't actually need a new starter motor. It was..... altogether now.... a broken earth strap to the gearbox. I could have cried/cursed/kicked myself when they told me! "Experience is rarely cheap, but it's always good value".

Unless you have got ford pass app enabled , the dealer won't see any data. It's gdpr data protection . You basically have to authorise this. I'm led to believe the data only starts once app is on. So not any previous data. Could be wrong. I've never had to check the data on a vehicle. I can see when then are switched on if I bother looking.

Welcome, does ya start/stop work? 😉

As a low mileage driver these days at only 5K a year, I’d also recommend a smart battery charger such as CTEK to keep the car battery topped up. If you don’t do a fortnightly top-up you may find the car telling you the battery is low.

I came across an old Profile for my old Mk 2.5 Focus and the RCM was on the MS Can Bus along with the ACM and the GEM. Presumably these Modules are showing up assuming that your Mk2 is the same, and you have tried to create a new Profile in case there was a glitch when you connected. The only time I have had a Module not showing up in FORScan was when it was completely dead. In my case there were non-communication codes from the Modules that should have been connecting to the dead one.

Chain or wet belt for cam? If you’re not sure, look under the bonnet. Turbo at the front is wet belt, turbo at the back is chain. It needs a run to get it hot occasionally to keep moisture out of the engine.

Thanks a lot! I’ve updated my car details too!

Last letter is just the revision of the part. Think of it like a date code, but remember you can only use parts that are either the same or newer than the original. Older parts may not be backwards compatible.

I’ve done a smell test and it is indeed oil

Mine works better out of the case but other than that it’s easier just to plug in via USB.

It is the same car as yours in dynamic blue and parked out in the sun so I made the same link with temperature as you especially as it just started happening in the warmer spring weather. That said this is the third summer I have had it and it didn't happen previous years including over 40 deg C in last year's heatwave. The flap seems to work normally to open and close manually and nothing obviously loose but I will take another look.

its the wife go😆

Hello all! New to this scene, having last been active on the nissan side of things. Change of camp, look forward to participating! Owner of a '22 plate Ranger raptor (mk1) - which I absolutely love. And yes, I use it how it was built to be, no pavement princess here!😁

Got my baby back today, it was the seal on the union that had failed, but you have to butcher the pipes to get at it to replace. So new union, all belts replaced and all pulleys degreased as going squidgy, new pipes from Ford and the green fluid Ford agreed it should be that to my guy after he told them i'd spec'd it, it had red in it that was severely discoloured. £156 inc for the pipes cheers Ford, in total £310.00 for the whole job, damn good price. My guy never lets me down on price or performance.

You may have seen that coincidentally this got a mention on another thread: https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/145013-2019-fiesta-wet-belt-replacement/#comment-996747 It seems to suffer similar wet belt issues as the 1.0 ecoboost - plenty about it on the web. However don't think any of the others on your list use a wet belt which is at least one bonus! You don't see much negative press reliability-wise on the Hyundai and Kia, which of course in the UK have sold in much smaller numbers than Ford, VW etc. Might also reflect the 5 and 7 year warranties respectively. The VW TSi found in the 2013+generation particularly the 140/150ps versions are very good to drive and conventional dry belt which does need changing every 4/5 years. I have a couple of friends whose cars are now approaching the 10 year mark with no issues, though again they were bought new/nearly new and have been properly maintained.

This was reported 3 years ago... https://thedriven.io/2020/08/14/three-unmodified-kona-electrics-drive-more-than-1000km-on-single-charge/

Well, this is a difficult fault to start with... Like taking your driving test in a bus! The fuel rail on this engine is very awkward to access, right behind the engine. I can't post a picture because even with the engine removed from the car, you still can't see it. The best advice I can give here is to locate any one of the solid metal fuel pipes coming from any injector and then follow that back down the engine. Those pipes go directly into the rail. Then the sensor is on the end of the rail, it's the only electrical part of the rail itself so you can't mistake it. Personally, I would also tackle the EGR fault first, so I think you've made the best choice there.

You're right. I did give it a little nudge earlier but the clip wanted to go the wrong way to fit back in. Should have seen it, but I guess we can chalk that up to critical thinking skills not being engaged full in the early morning. In any case, thanks for the help.

Made Napalm once!! Toxic and highly flammable and when ignited its very hard to put out, don't ask me but I know, poured it on our Pit Tips and lit it, holy did it go up, luckily it burnt itself out and didn't get the chance to spread to nearby farmers fields. It's simply just Petrol and expanded polystyrene, loads of polystyrene melted into the petrol until it resembles the thickness of gloss paint.

I used bleach on a push bike some years ago, to get rid of oil stains in the paintwork around the bottom bracket, it got rid of the yellowing but also made the area lighter where the bleach had came in contact with the paint, wouldn't use it anywhere near painted areas. Just a quick google...... Bleach will damage the paint and trim on your car. Bleach will degrade rubber seals. Bleach will make plastic go lighter. Bleach strips wax off. Bleach can also cause staining.

Are you absolutely sure you have the correct oil in? If not, only use the correct oil. If there was no belt residue in the old oil pump then presume there's no belt deterioration, check the oil filter for residue (split it)

Just rectify the leak at a garage that knows what they are doing, not just going to charge you £5k for the fun of it. Low fluid causes shift issues, you won't have a contaminated clutch because it's a wet clutch system. Get the leak fixed and a fluid change and filter at the same time, in the mean time, keep topping it up

I fitted one because I was doing the timing belt anyway and it was suggested to be wise to renew it while everything was apart. Yes the timing belt is a PAIN to do if you haven't done one of these before. As is the thermostat, very hard to get at the bolts, I ended up cross threading one but nothing I could do except force the thing in due to no access.

Sounds like the wet cam belt has deteriorated and blocked the pickups. If you’re already getting strange sounds I’d say it’s already too late for this engine. Just search wet belt on here. It blocks the pickup and starves the engine. Usually when the low oil pressure light appears it’s already too late and has done catastrophic damage.

Watched a video yesterday when the engine was launched, claiming the timing belt was a lifetime part.

I do like getting my 'premium forum membership' renewal invoice, and paying it by return - I feel a right smug git now! LOL 😂

Oh, I remember using one of those in my physics class at school! Great bit of kit!

As I said earlier you can not measure the voltage to the speakers with a multimeter. It is an alternating signal of only a few millivolts. If you want to check the audio output signal then you will need an oscilloscope and a x10 high impedance scope probe.

Heck you use bleach on a car!! You can't be serious ?

So does the CEO. He's been trying to update the Sync in his car for over a year 🤣

Only if you have headlight washers. Otherwise no.

I'm not sure of the problem you have. Speakers do not have a positive and a negative in the normal sense of a 12 volt supply. I can see from your photo that your system has a 4 speaker output. Each twisted pair is one channel. You can't use a multimeter on DC volts to measure the output to the speakers. The problem if you have no sound is likely to be the actual 6000CD unit.

You beat me too it 🤣 I knew it was WF05XXG_ _ _ JT30926. Just missing the middle 3 letters/numbers 🤔