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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/07/2023 in all areas

  1. Just a word of caution: Don't try this with any lithium battery (eg. CR2032) as short-circuiting the cell can very quickly cause a run away chain reaction and the cell may burst in to flames even a few minutes after the 'test' has been removed.
    3 points
  2. Ever thought of working for The Samaritans with that positive outlook?
    3 points
  3. Just shows 2 issues. 1. Shortage of mechanics for the amount of vehicles on the road. Waiting a week or more is not uncommon at alot of garages 2. What mechanics there are at garages generally tend not to be proper mechanics with good basic diagnostic skills. Too many fitters and not enough skilled in the trade.
    3 points
  4. The Ecoboom wetbelt issue has made it onto BBC Watchdog tonight.
    2 points
  5. UPDATE: I have changed the EGR valve with a new one that I got for a fair price (it's this one - link, however I payed significantly less since it was wholesale price for my cousins workshop). Since there was an issue with the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor, I initially wanted to replace only the EGR valve and see if the FRP sensor issue will resolve itself (as I mentioned here in the thread), as I have found in one video that short-circuited EGR valve can cause problems with FRP sensor. Nevertheless, when I dismantled the EGR valve, I found out that the FRP sensor is located just below the valve (see attached photo), so it would be pain in the *** to dismantle the new EGR again just to replace the FRP sensor in case it was faulted. As such, we ordered new sensor (this one - link), that came in couple of hours while the hood was opened and EGR dismantled, and replaced both FRP sensor and the EGR valve. After changing both, we reset EGR learned values through diagnostic tool (before turning on the engine). After that, we deleted the faulty codes and started the engine. I also read that you should let it idle for 5 minutes before driving so that the software learns to work with the new EGR valve, and after 5 minutes we took it for a drive. No shutting off so far, and I noticed increase in output straight away. As such, the whole problem was solved for around 90 euros, and I can imagine if I just sent it to a workshop, it wouldn't take so short and I would ended up paying significantly more. Nevertheless, I had the privilege of working in my cousins workshop (it's a tire workshop/garage) and the prices were also lower since they buy directly from wholesale. I have read that many of you guys had issues with the EGR shortly after replacing it, so I hope that it won't happen in my case. Good luck with your endeavours! Also thank you for your comments. Cheers!
    2 points
  6. Elton John held an inter-county boxing championship for nurses and found that Surrey seems to be the hardest ward. ___ I watched a documentary about the Normans last night. Amazing that such a large group of people all had the same name. ___ I'm from a small family, the youngest of three. My parents are both older than me. ___ I've just formed a band called "The Coffin Lids".... We cover a lot of the old pop legends.... ___ I stole a boomerang earlier and hid it up my sleeve. The security guard threw me out of the shop 37 times. ___
    2 points
  7. Those pipes always break on the 16v 1.6 TDCI. It's a weak design anyway, and they have to be removed every time the oil filter is changed. It's just an oil breather pipe, simply takes excess pressure and fine oil vapour from the top of the cam cover and sucks it into the inlet. Has to be burnt as it's illegal to vent raw oil vapour to atmosphere when designing an engine. Very unlikely to be the cause of your engine warning or limp mode. On this engine, it's probably something to do with glowplugs, EGR or DPF. You will need Ford specific diagnostics to read fault codes that only trigger the engine warning message, without triggering the engine light. (Forscan is recommended on here).
    2 points
  8. Firstly don't assume that the new CR2032 batteries are working, there are many counterfeit and poor quality batteries on sale. You need to use a digital multimeter and measure the voltage of the new batteries, they need to be 3.30V. If they are less than 2.99V then they are dead. It may sound a silly thing to suggest, but are you 100% sure that the batteries are the correct way up ? If you are using Duracell (not recommended) clean the batteries with IPA, acetone, or nail polish remover as they have an invisible coating on them which causes poor electrical contact.
    2 points
  9. Hello everyone. I hope you are having a great day. So I am quite new to the motorist world and got myself a first car quite a while back (about 1 year and 2 months). It's a Ford Focus Mk2 1.6 TDCi 66 kw (DA3/GDPA1P/5KACMP diesel to be specific), 2010. I had an issue with the main display on the dashboard (it was not showing anything, only the light has been illuminating the background) which I got fixed recently (replaced for 95 euros). Currently, I had started to experience "Engine Malfunction" - meaning that the engine shuts down in the middle of driving, which as you can imagine is quite stressful event when you drive in 90 km/h outside city and there is a traffic, not mentioning it can be also dangerous for every member of the traffic. I have a friend who has a diagnostic software, so we checked what would be the faults and the software showed these: U0167 - Lost Comms With Immobiliser Module P253F - Engine Oil Deteriorated P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit High P0698 - Sensor Reference Voltage Circuit "C" Low P0490 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Circuit High P042F - Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Stuck Closed I have read some other forums where similar issues have been discussed regarding the engine malfunction and it appears that it's rather a complex issue, and many times even certified workshop just shoots their shot (but of course charging the customer for every shot). I have figured that many of you might have experienced engine malfunction issue and got it resolved. I know I am rather lucky to had the opportunity to have the faults checked. So my question is: Have anyone had "Engine Malfunction" and identified one of the faults I described that are relevant to an engine itself? How did you resolve this? Would you recommend tackling some of the issues by myself (e.g. the changing the fuel pressure sensor or cleaning the EGR)? Thank you everyone who took the time and contributed to this threat. I believe that it would help many others experiencing this issue. Cheers.
    1 point
  10. I certainly don't either, just googled the topic and that came up. Pretty familiar stuff. Interesting though that Ford claimed (assuming I heard It right) that the failure rate was "less than 0.01%" !! It will be on BBC iPlayer, but I can't check as I'm up at our caravan at the mo and my iPlayer password is at home (in a file with the other million different passwords that you are recommended to have these days rather than just "password"!😃)
    1 point
  11. Thanks for your help I have the android lite version installed and purchased a license and it is now activated. I did see the exact same product in your link for £39 from amazon so will purchase this one and get it tomorrow. Vgate OBDII Bluetooth, vLinker FD OBD Scanner OBD2 Diagnostic Tool Check Engine Light for Android & Windows (Bluetooth 3.0) https://amzn.eu/d/5xBRam0 Thanks again for everyone's help so far.
    1 point
  12. This will be my first time at Ford fair, I’ve no idea what to expect but I’m really looking forward to it.
    1 point
  13. popular low cost "Smart" battery charger is the Maypole 7423A. Can be bought from Amazon (just an example) £24.79 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maypole-7423A-Battery-Charger-Electronic/dp/B009A83P1E/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=maypole+charger&qid=1686167389&quartzVehicle=29-10519&replacementKeywords=maypole&s=automotive&sr=1-4 On modern cars you need to charge the battery while it is still fitted and connected to the vehicle. The positive charging lead needs connected directly to the battery positive terminal. The negative charging lead should be connected to the chassis main earth point NOT the battery negative. Your vehicle will be equipped with BMS (battery monitoring system) which keeps a check on current flowing it to, and out of the battery. The sensor is fitted in the battery negative lead. Most Smart chargers come with a short lead with a socket that can be permanently connected to the battery positive terminal and the chassis earth point making it quick and easy to plug the charger in to the car. It can be left on charge indefinitely as the charger will ensure the battery is only kept at a constant level.
    1 point
  14. Might need an Ishihara test if that's the case!
    1 point
  15. Thanks for all the helpful comments. The turbo is at the back so no wet belt worries. I certainly appreciate that the car should be given a decent drive every so often, probably every month. I'm fortunate (or unfortunate!) that I live near the M53. The oil, filter etc. will be changed every year and the local Ford dealer produces a short video showing an inspection underneath the car at each service. However I'll probably look for a decent trustworthy local Ford specialist. TBH I never thought about keeping the battery charged so I will attend to that. At the moment the stop/start system isn't working (no great loss) so that probably indicates a run down battery. Thanks again.
    1 point
  16. Hello! My Ford Focus is Mk2 1.6 TDCi diesel 66 kw from 2010. It doesn't have the start/stop unfortunately (or fortunately? hahaha)
    1 point
  17. UPDATE: I have changed the EGR valve with a new one that I got for a fair price (it's this one - link, however I payed significantly less since it was wholesale price for my cousins workshop). Since there was an issue with the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor, I initially wanted to replace only the EGR valve and see if the FRP sensor issue will resolve itself, as I have found in one video that short-circuited EGR valve can cause problems with FRP sensor. Nevertheless, when I dismantled the EGR valve, I found out that the FRP sensor is located just below the valve, so it would be pain in the ***** to dismantle the new EGR again just to replace the FRP sensor in case it was faulted. As such, we ordered new sensor (this one - link), that came in couple of hours while the hood was opened and EGR dismantled, and replaced both FRP sensor and the EGR valve. After changing both, I have read somewhere that you need to reset EGR learned values through diagnostic tool, so that's what we did (before turning on the engine). After that, we deleted the faulty codes and started the engine. I also read that you should let it idle for 5 minutes before driving so that the software learns to work with the new EGR valve, and after 5 minutes we took it for a drive. No shutting off so far, and I noticed increase in output straight away. As such, the whole problem was solved for around 90 euros, and I can imagine if I just sent it to a workshop, it wouldn't take so short and I would ended up paying significantly more. Nevertheless, I had the privilege of working in my cousins workshop (it's a tire workshop/garage) and the prices were also lower since they buy directly from wholesale. Please, also find another discussion on this topic from a different thread (sorry I created another one, but I wanted to find out where is the position of the FRP sensor) in this link in case you are interested. I have read that many of you guys had issues with the EGR shortly after replacing it, so I hope that it won't happen in my case. Good luck with your endeavours! Cheers.
    1 point
  18. https://www.paintcolourchart.com/cars/027/kuga.html
    1 point
  19. I would say Halfords but depends wher you are, there must be a vehicle refinisher supplies near you, where i am i have the likes of BCN, other companies may be available 🤣
    1 point
  20. If you have the built in modem, the data is sent direct to Ford. It's just that the Fordpass app is where you can control the data sharing settings for your Ford account and car.
    1 point
  21. Go into her make up drawer and grab some nail polish remover!
    1 point
  22. Parts of the UK got close to that during last year's heatwave. Maybe up in the North you escaped it.
    1 point
  23. That's a first class 'bodge' job !!
    1 point
  24. It's the same round my way. I get quite alot of phone calls from agency's trying to entice me elsewhere, even at my age.
    1 point
  25. Yes, I've noticed most dealerships/service garages near me seem to have a "Technicians required" sign permanently on display.
    1 point
  26. Hello, I'm Tiago, from Portugal I own a 2021 Puma Cheers!
    1 point
  27. My Mrs is a very low mileage user. One problem we have had with her cars is little-used brake discs rusting resulting in both discs and pads needing to be replaced prematurely.
    1 point
  28. Keep the underneath as clean as the top. Also keep an eye for rust on the front and rear frames as this is what is killing MK1 Focus now Change the oil every 12 months and give it a blast now and again
    1 point
  29. As from above thread, my front driver side speaker stopped working. In total anger one trip, I slapped the speaker grill, it burst into life LOL So, I've still to change it!
    1 point
  30. Transmission fluid done annoyingly on drain and refill only took 5ltrs so I think I will treat this as a flush through and do it again one weekend as I now have 5ltrs spare. I didn't fancy doing the full ford drain flush and change at the time but the box does feel a little smoother in changing so thanks for your help.
    1 point
  31. are you crazy ??????????????? You'll give @StephenFord a heart attack ! 🤣
    1 point
  32. Remind me not to listen to 'Ford Assist' 🤣
    1 point
  33. Unless you have got ford pass app enabled , the dealer won't see any data. It's gdpr data protection . You basically have to authorise this. I'm led to believe the data only starts once app is on. So not any previous data. Could be wrong. I've never had to check the data on a vehicle. I can see when then are switched on if I bother looking.
    1 point
  34. That is actually quite normal. Don't know about the message. You need some help from Wilco @JW1982, he might know the answer.
    1 point
  35. I put a Tesco Cr2032 in my key fob - it lasted 3 weeks... Someone on here recommended Energizer so changed to them and they are working fine.
    1 point
  36. You need to be careful with the EGR Valves for these cars. The original ones were made by Valeo and are Identical to the ones fitted to the Peugeot/Citroen variations of the exact same Engine except the Ford ones are different Electrically, so an aftermarket one that the makers claim can be used in Ford as well as Peugeot/Citroen cars may not work properly. It is normal to reset the EGR Learned Values with a Diagnostic Tool. FORScan is the Ford Specific one that most people on this Forum use.
    1 point
  37. Welcome, does ya start/stop work? 😉
    1 point
  38. Fair point. I suppose the underlying issue for me is that I feel there is too much tech in modern cars, much of it pretty pointless, imho.
    1 point
  39. Had noticed that after I took the photo and got it straight down! Thanks Tom!! I’ll get it ordered. Really appreciate your quick response
    1 point
  40. I've bought CR2032 batteries which have a thin clear plastic disc stuck on one side which has to be peeled off before fitting the batteries. I just thought it was worth a mention.
    1 point
  41. Last letter is just the revision of the part. Think of it like a date code, but remember you can only use parts that are either the same or newer than the original. Older parts may not be backwards compatible.
    1 point
  42. The flap doesn't lock when the car is locked anyway. Are you sure it's not someone messing with you and opening it? Or a cat/wildlife sliding down that part from the roof and popping it open?
    1 point
  43. 'Pedestrian behind - do you wish to run them over?'
    1 point
  44. I went the cyanlabs route to the latests Sync 3.4.23088 and F12 maps, as far as I'm aware the cyanlabs method always downgrades then formats the system before putting a full clean install on. Worked perfectly for me and fixed several issue from my previous version, Speak and Spell - fixed Traffic Info - fixed Radio EPG - fixed After the master reset all my radio logo are present
    1 point
  45. Hi, Welcome. Just use Focus
    1 point
  46. Really interesting article by Rowan Atkinson on electric vehicles. He's not just a 'celebrity;, but has a degree in electrical engineering, and admittedly is a die hard petrolhead, owning many exotic and expensive cars. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2023/jun/03/electric-vehicles-early-adopter-petrol-car-ev-environment-rowan-atkinson
    1 point
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