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Tom, that is just weird, the internet is full of cr*p, but for the life of me, I can't find a clip showing that engine destruction! Maybe Ford took out some kind of injunction in case folk got the idea that their engines blow up 🤣

Just checking the clip again and Matt did say that. Hard to find a total production figure but a Ford press release I found said 1.6 million had been sold 2012-2019. After that the chain drive versions started to appear though the wet belt continued in some versions. So let's say 2 million as a nice round figure. 0.01% of that is only 200 and we've probably had that many on this forum alone, so a ludicrous figure. Big fib from Ford or c*ck up by the Beeb?

I certainly don't either, just googled the topic and that came up. Pretty familiar stuff. Interesting though that Ford claimed (assuming I heard It right) that the failure rate was "less than 0.01%" !! It will be on BBC iPlayer, but I can't check as I'm up at our caravan at the mo and my iPlayer password is at home (in a file with the other million different passwords that you are recommended to have these days rather than just "password"!😃)

I'm not sure why he would want to pay that for a second hand engine that could suffer the exact same failure six months down the line. PumaSpeed will supply and fit a brand new engine with a warranty for £3040 inc VAT

I think it's a bit of a weird one - it could well be that wet belt failures are as low a percentage as Ford say - remember that these engines came in most of the Ford range for a vast number of years, there must be millions of them out there and I suspect the vast majority will be fine. For people who aren't that into cars or aren't on social media, when I mentioned I'd just bought a 1.0 EcoBoost Focus, the reaction I got from basically everyone was "great choice, I've had one for years and it's been brilliant". Yet as soon as you come online, I've got a matter of weeks until the belt goes and it's useless. I know they're susceptible to failure with improper servicing and the wrong oil, and annoyingly I believe that the types of owner of some of these cars are the sort to not take up dealer servicing and go to the local backstreet independent who will chuck engine flush and non-wetbelt specific oil in there instead. I bought mine from a trustworthy independent Ford franchise dealer, the car is low mileage for its age (10 years, 47k miles at the time) and as part of the pre-sale service the garage replaced the wet belt, oil belt, a few seals, and made sure the oil pickup was clean. I intend to change the oil every 6 months with the right specification and take it back for a dealer service every 12 months for the MOT and service and I guess we'll see what happens. It's as close to a 'fresh start' as I think I'm going to get. With my annual mileage being around 15k miles, I guess we'll see - but I'm keeping £4k ringfenced in savings in case I need one of those Pumaspeed EcoBoost crate engines.

Is this the first time you're wireless charging? It generates heat regardless and is a slower method of charging - if you're using wireless carplay / audio playback while wirelessly charging, then what you've described sounds pretty normal.

Made famous by the inimitable James May on his Tesla...

It's possible that the plug in the back is loose. The cluster is easy enough to remove with basic tools to check that. However, there is a very common problem on these where the solder in the cluster cracks and causes poor connections which make and break during a drive. I suspect that'll be the issue here, and unless you can solder, most people send them away for repair.

My experience over the years generally has been more problems with cars doing low mileage than the other way round. Quite a bit on the topic on another recent thread: https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/146385-mk8-longevity-time-or-mileage/#comment-997206 A car standing around accumulating internal engine condensation, or predominantly going through cold start cycles which may cause oil dilution through excess fuelling, is not helping maintain oil quality which seems to be the crucial issue in wet belt degredation. in such cases, regular oil changes with the recommended grade are essential - Fords move to recommended 18,000/2 years service intervals was not helpful here, though they do make the point in various places online or in literature that low mileage cars need more frequent changes.

Well if we ignore all those that have had the cam belt fail under 25,000 and the one or two that have had it fail at 18,000 then it would be fair to say the problem is more common for those engines that have done over 60,000 miles.

About to go on holiday and my neighbour asks me to bring back 800 cigarettes for him. Got back and gave them to him. 'How much do I owe you?' '£600' 'Blimey, that's dear - where did you go?' 'Rhyl."

Tbf, it's how wireless charging works in general. It's an issue on many other cars too, a car is the worst environment for wireless charging which inherently always warms the phone more than a cable. The mk4 has the mat in a slightly enclosed position, it's not as bad as some cars, some have them in the armrest which is totally useless as it will hotbox the phone.

Sad to say I don't do Faceache, just not my thing 🤔

With a bit of the colour of the car to give us all a clue 👍 😀 Just a bit of trivia: There are 44 members who are called Amanda_ _ _ _ _ _ Of those 8 have only ever made 1 post and a further 28 have made 0 posts 🙁 I do hope our newest member Amanda will return soon 😀

If I don’t want my phone trying to charge I just place it screen face down in that spot. Wireless CarPlay isn’t on Sync 3 but I think sync 4 supports it. Phone needs to be in Bluetooth range and it uses a hidden WiFi network in the car instead of usb to transmit the screen and audio.

Just checking out PumaSpeed sales of replacement Ecoboom 1.0 engines and they claim to have sold 468. Of course we have no way of knowing why 468 owners decided to fit a new engine but I'd like to bet Ford have replaced at least the same number, and then there are those selling second hand/refurbished engines. So just making the numbers easy lets say a nice round 1000 replaced and assume only half of them were because of cam belt failure that would still mean 500 poor Ecoboom owners have had to pay at least £3000 and in many cases probably double that. I can only think the 0.01% is "Ford's truth" a bit like the version of events that prince Harry gives !

Well, says it's supplied by Ford so the same I guess.

Back on topic... I stopped watching Watchdog a few years ago. Got fed up with the way it was presented. Clearly just intended to scaremonger rather than offer decent consumer advice. Still in two minds about whether to watch this segment on iPlayer or not.

Found it on the All4 catch up service eventually. Turned out I was right...those HT leads would be a little unnecessary on a diesel. CN56 FFU. Jimps will be even more upset about this though. It never failed MOT, in fact on it's last MOT wasn't even an advisory.

Good news 👍 The OP Amanda Nash has checked back in 23hours and 20minutes after her first post 🎉 read the replies and ........... that was that 🙁

Must admit, I enjoyed that scene, if anything, it reinforced to me how important oil is!

There are plenty of car YouTubers who do the same thing when they want a boost in their viewership. I can't stand it, I have far too much mechanical sympathy and just think its a total waste whenever anyone does that 'experiment'.

The rails has arrived, and I installed them by removing the headliner because I couldn't imagine any other way to do it. I am still very curious if it could have been done by clamping a nutserts into the roof. Pleas have a look at the pictures below: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7KbXumjyvSkdFm2m6 What are your opinions?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154817407953?var=454924717954&hash=item240bd62bd1:g:YvgAAOSwio9jaNJI&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4I9%2F7882mwWmagal80b1HLyB1YmjTPSWio3rtUBJxZbJvYBv2Zo3DkLUr35eKn6ARhaxSdubS5R%2BPry12PRAseswatZ3DQYPcFS%2B3p6Lezg4cnfoO6Np45Cqufnby3dJpxVcQv%2BTOFz%2Bhmg7u3%2FWcLkJi%2BlQStv8VRewjGeXYD4vQ47rZe0tp8bjmwj3o0ZeoGitvcrQnEL0%2FvBB5HnyFRXhOVs3cZTHIi0gjnmbacLA8XGL0u5zPTaduJdiUDZGwNbWBznS7XBE5syRalFvwcn4YtYjiJlhzJ1U%2BnmMPNjp|tkp%3ABFBM3JOmrZNi

My Father-In-Law's 2011 MK2.5 RKE module went down on his, it was located in the passenger rear 1/4 trim, condensation had got in and corroded it. Now, you've got to get your terminology right because late MK2.5s are a bit different Keyless entry is with the remote, managed by the RKE built into the GEM Keyless start is managed by the cluster (PATS) through the GEM Passive entry is where you don't need a remote, you just press the buttons on the door handles and tailgate. Passive entry system is controlled though the keyless system, through the cluster and back through the GEM, the Remote entry works through a stand alone RKE module in the LH rear 1/4 Which system have you got? Water ingress into the GEM killed our 2010 MK2.5 Zetec-S, that had keyless start but remote, keyless entry, NOT passive The first thing that goes down on the GEM is the RKE circuit, so I would investigate the GEM for water ingress. If you have passive entry, investigate the GEM AND the RKE in the LH rear 1/4 If RKE has gone down it either doesn't show up on FORScan or shows up as deactivated

With my earlier cars I was guilty of not looking past the headline of the viscosity level. This was on a HCS 1.1 engine in my first Fiesta, though that thing would have survived a nuclear blast and laughed at the concept of 'wrong oil'. There's so much more to oil than that, but a lot of people will just go and buy a topup bottle from Halfords "it's 5w20 so it's fine", without realising that the additives in there aren't wet belt friendly.

I wouldn't worry too much. FoCCCus isn't the most reliable or up to date bit of software and as far as I am aware the IPC is only a backup of the config and isn't actually referenced anywhere so as long as the BCM is up to date then that's fine. You could also make the necessary changes within ForScan itself if needed. Can confirm the pop and reset is normal 🙂

No. The chassis is totally different.

😃

Lithiums don't like being shorted, well, that's something I didn't know as I've never tried it. Good advice Uno.

Cheers for the confirmation re the Yuasa/teaboy and glad to see you're optomistic about it's heath, pension - Ha ha... Maybe I'll put it back in the car and see how it goes. Also taken onboard what you said about voltages, thanks a lot for that.

I find it strange reading through this that there is no mention of any fault codes or lack of, surely that would be the first place to start.

Not mine either, but, if you click on that link above, then click on the authors name, it allows you to view the 1st page, and if you scroll down you'll be able to see the BBC four minute clip...

Did we learn anything from tonight's BBC programme (I stopped watching the BBC during Covid) ?

popular low cost "Smart" battery charger is the Maypole 7423A. Can be bought from Amazon (just an example) £24.79 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maypole-7423A-Battery-Charger-Electronic/dp/B009A83P1E/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=maypole+charger&qid=1686167389&quartzVehicle=29-10519&replacementKeywords=maypole&s=automotive&sr=1-4 On modern cars you need to charge the battery while it is still fitted and connected to the vehicle. The positive charging lead needs connected directly to the battery positive terminal. The negative charging lead should be connected to the chassis main earth point NOT the battery negative. Your vehicle will be equipped with BMS (battery monitoring system) which keeps a check on current flowing it to, and out of the battery. The sensor is fitted in the battery negative lead. Most Smart chargers come with a short lead with a socket that can be permanently connected to the battery positive terminal and the chassis earth point making it quick and easy to plug the charger in to the car. It can be left on charge indefinitely as the charger will ensure the battery is only kept at a constant level.

Just a word of caution: Don't try this with any lithium battery (eg. CR2032) as short-circuiting the cell can very quickly cause a run away chain reaction and the cell may burst in to flames even a few minutes after the 'test' has been removed.

Yes even the tea boy/girl/person 😉 can use it. Just clip it on, tell it the battery capacity and in about 60 seconds it will tell you the condition. The peak charge level is 12.8?V for a AGM battery but don't confuse that with it's standing voltage once the charge has been removed. I'd be willing to bet your pension that the battery is fine 🤣

UPDATE: I have changed the EGR valve with a new one that I got for a fair price (it's this one - link, however I payed significantly less since it was wholesale price for my cousins workshop). Since there was an issue with the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor, I initially wanted to replace only the EGR valve and see if the FRP sensor issue will resolve itself (as I mentioned here in the thread), as I have found in one video that short-circuited EGR valve can cause problems with FRP sensor. Nevertheless, when I dismantled the EGR valve, I found out that the FRP sensor is located just below the valve (see attached photo), so it would be pain in the *** to dismantle the new EGR again just to replace the FRP sensor in case it was faulted. As such, we ordered new sensor (this one - link), that came in couple of hours while the hood was opened and EGR dismantled, and replaced both FRP sensor and the EGR valve. After changing both, we reset EGR learned values through diagnostic tool (before turning on the engine). After that, we deleted the faulty codes and started the engine. I also read that you should let it idle for 5 minutes before driving so that the software learns to work with the new EGR valve, and after 5 minutes we took it for a drive. No shutting off so far, and I noticed increase in output straight away. As such, the whole problem was solved for around 90 euros, and I can imagine if I just sent it to a workshop, it wouldn't take so short and I would ended up paying significantly more. Nevertheless, I had the privilege of working in my cousins workshop (it's a tire workshop/garage) and the prices were also lower since they buy directly from wholesale. I have read that many of you guys had issues with the EGR shortly after replacing it, so I hope that it won't happen in my case. Good luck with your endeavours! Also thank you for your comments. Cheers!

If the battery is not connected to the vehicle and the voltage measured at the terminals 24 hours after it was taken off charge is 12.60V or better then it is safe to assume the battery has recovered. Halfords do have a simple to use Yuasa battery tester in most stores. They will test your battery for free but to get an accurate result it needs to be disconnected fro the vehicle and rested for at least an hour.

I think you'll find it's the "button" under the passenger wing mirror. 👍

Quick answers to a complex issue. Modern cars all suffer with the vehicle battery gradually having a low State Of Charge (SOC) Expect to charge the battery about every 6 weeks for at least 12 hours. Do NOT reset the Battery Monitor System (BMS) unless you have fitted a new battery. Most Smart battery chargers will be suitable provided they have an output capacity of 4 Amps or more. Always connect the charger positive lead direct to the battery and connect the negative lead to the chassis earth point. Never expect Stop/Start to work. It is a gimmick that enabled the manufacture to get the vehicle through the emissions type approval. There are approximately 114 different items which are monitored and that have to be correct before there is a possibility that S/S will operate. Use of heavy electrical equipment will reduce the SOC of the battery over time. This may require more frequent charging and/or for longer periods of time. Increasing the default SOC of the vehicle from 80% to a higher level, for example 95% may lengthen the time between needing to top up with a battery charger. In the warmer weather it may even mean there is no need for extra charging. Use a multimeter to check the battery SOC at least 1 hour after it has finished been charged.

Hello - I was hoping someone maybe able to help. I have a ford focus 1.0 ecoboost (mk3). The oil rises and I think it smells of fuel - the oil is above on the oil stick level. I have replaced the oil (recommend grade) and filter but still rises and oil looks thin. Also got 02 sensors bank1 sensor1 message and pending fault - system too rich at idle bank 1 (using a cheap elm3 obd2 scanner) - the engine light and fault comes and goes off. Took it too a couple of garages - no one has had a proper look yet but they saying it could be fuel pump or seal (on engine body) or injectors. The car runs fine - does not sound rough. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Lets hope you've got a different problem than my old banger has ! What's wrong with mine is either a small head gasket leak or possible cracked block which pushes a small amount of coolant into one or more of the cylinder bores causing wonky starting and misfiring from cold. What I do now is every time I drive anywhere, I immediately open the bonnet and open the coolant cap which lets all the pressure out, next time I start it the car starts fine, I'm guessing because I've not let it hold pressure for it to push into the bore/s, that's my guess anyways.

Problem solved! The photo I posted in the OP of the component is indeed the totality of the replacement part: I was barking up the wrong tree looking for the other end of it on the heater box. The yellow arrow shows the end of the component. The red arrow indicates where there is some kind of cable with a toothed socket on the end of it. It's not visible as you can see that the grey plastic section is in front of it. I was actually trying to pull that part OUT, in order to get a look at it. However, I noticed that there was some kind of spring loading on it, so I let it go and it snapped home, not fully, but more than before. Whacked on the blower and turned the knob for the blend: working! But as Eric Morecambe would have said "Not necessarily in the right order" I moved the blend control knob, ignoring it's position until it was clearly outputting to screen only Pulled on the joint (yellow arrow) until the rod was disengaged Placed the blend control knob at 12 o'clock (screen only) Let go of the joint. It didn't snap fully home straight away, so I pulled on it a few times and it popped in. All working now. Dunno how it got pulled out, mind. Hopefully this will help someone else in the future.

Further to this one...my friendly MOT tester told me how wonderful the car was as he moved from brake test to emissions and then spent 15 minutes scratching his head as he could not understand why the high rev emissions were SO far out of spec. Anyway, he eventually fooled the machine into giving acceptable figures and gave me the ticket but that was the final confirmation that the cat was kaput. ☹️ I invested in a new one from BM catalysts and fitted it a few weeks ago. Only iffy bit about doing the change on ramps on my driveway was that there was absolutely no way at all that the nuts/studs connecting the back end of the catalyst/downpipe to the exhaust were ever going to be undone by me laying on my back. Rusted to buggery and originally installed such that the nuts sit on the car side of the exhaust (ie accessible from above not below) 😥 rather than on the bottom side where I might have been able to get heat and more force to undo them. Back to my mechanic/MOT guy and up on the garage lift so that between us we eventually managed to use a low profile disc cutter to hack off the studs/nuts. Then returned home to complete the replacement and all is now well. Only 'issue' being a minor rattle likely caused by a loose heatshield - due to cross-threaded (and then sheared) bolt. Leaving that for another day to see if the remains can be extracted.

Hi everyone im kinda new to this and want to say hi to all... I own a 2005 ford focus mk2 1.6 tdci and have an oil leak on the top of my engine around the injectors which is leaking down the right side of my engine making a mess of my air filter box and everything in that way. I took some pictures hoping someone would recognise this problem and if it an easy fix? I've attached a few pictures hoping it would make it easier to explain. I've already checked the breather pipe and that seems to be all ok and i havent really noticed a big change in any oil loss, so looking for some ideas where this leak is coming from.