Leaderboard

Just got car back to day after having a new wing fitted. Yes, I know it makes no economic sense whatsoever in a 19 year old car, but every other panel on her is so good, it really did let her down. To cut costs, I asked them not to bother blending in to next panel. I honestly can't tell the difference, the match is excellent! Well chuffed...

I'm glad I sold my focus and fiesta ecoboom. Not even got a vacuum pump , or an engine. 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Regardless of the cause, the engine stopping while driving causing the servo to lose pressure is not the same thing as the engine carrying on running but the vacuum getting blocked. That’s all my point was. I made this clear the conversation moved on. You don’t need to come in to every thread and try stoke things up again with your immovable opinion.

Fools seldom differ😂

Ah, I was certain it meant port and starboard! I'l just get my coat and go. ScaniaPBman

As Alex says, brake servo failure can occur for various reasons. In cases where there is a link to the wet belt, I believe the issue is particles from a disintegrating wet belt causing failure of the vacuum pump, hence no servo assistance. Extract from article regarding the US recall: "drop or total loss of oil pressure, both of which can ruin an engine. This failure can cause not only a loss of power while driving, but a deactivation of the vacuum pump that aids braking, posing the risk of rear-ending another vehicle. Ford acknowledges one crash stemming from oil pump failure, resulting in two injuries but no fatalities."

Critical battle alert stand down - DefCon 5 resumes... 🤣

UPDATE so its been a while since i updated my post... I have been working on and off on the powershift due to other things taking up my time but I rebuilt the box a while ago changed torque converter springs and retainers, replaced both filters and the main oil cover. also removed mechatronics and disassembled and cleaned valves and solenoids. yesterday I refitted and filled with oil, charged up battery over night and today i connected to forscan cleared all stored DTC an reset the TCM module using the option in service option tab. I am pleased to say the gearbox is now fully functioning, selects all gears up and down in S mode, has reverse and in D happily transitions each gear! no TCM faults are now present and no warnings displayed! I hope this encourages you if you are in this situation because I am not a gearbox technician or a qualified mechanic! Don't be fooled into spending 1500+ on repairing this the parts and oil cost me less than 200 and is much easer to work on than most believe! sadly there was little help online for me when I undertook this project which can be very daunting! I setup a facebook group for discussing the 6dct450 repair and I am willing to assist anyone who needs help!

Yes I would have thought so. The cam lobes are in pairs set 90o apart. So two valves open at the 12 O'clock position and then at 3 O'clock etc. etc. It would seem to me there would be no position of the camshaft that would result in all valves being 100% closed. The best you could archive would be four valves partly open / closed.

.....and the mail is handled by the "POST OFFICE" !!! Never to be trusted 🤣🤣🤣

Short answer is no. DIY paint jobs always look awful, especially if it's your first attempt. However, it's a plastic bumper so it won't rust. You may find that some of that is just paint transfer, so a quick wash will make it look better. After that I'd just leave it. Silver Fusions used to be very common, so you may find a matching bumper for sale used online, which is much less hassle than sending the car away for paint.

I understand the garage may take sometime to do the repair, but why are you in a hurry to paint the plastic bumper, it's not going to rust. If you want the bodyshop to attempt to repair the bumper rather than replace it then you are just going to give them extra work to do. Paint can be bought from: https://chipex.co.uk/

I've always called it a check strap. They were regularly breaking on the 306s!

I keep getting emails from Amazon telling me I'm eligible for a business account! 🤷 They show an item and how much I could save if I bought it through this account. Last one was a rucksack I was thinking about buying (Ryanair carry on size 😀) and I could save 50p on the £30 purchase.

Commonly known as the door check arm 👍

Just to point out that's not a hinge. It's the restraint strap. If it breaks the door won't fall off but it will be able to open so far that it causes damage to the door and wing panel.

Now I'm no expert on this, but as far as I know the vacuum pump is directly driven off the exhaust camshaft.

Remember if you have trouble getting quotes just give Dan a shout 🤣

I kind of get why they did that, but seems like a dumb decision in hindsight. If there was no path other than through the filter, it would trigger the low pressure light BEFORE any debris got sent around the engine.

Interesting how this thread rolls on, and from reading some of the comments I would offer a few observations based on my experience with a Mk3 1.0 manual Ecoboom. It would (in my opinion) be unlikely that the oil pump belt is somehow responsible for oil pump strainer blockage. Viewing the one I've removed shows little sign of deterioration at approx 70k, has a different construction to the OEM cambelt, is substantially smaller by mass than the cambelt which shows substantial degradation. Although apparently not a common occurrence, I would suggest it could be possible for the vacuum pump strainer gauze to block with the engine still running. I've seen the debris that collects there (and in other components). This type of failure could be exacerbated by people replacing/cleaning oil pumps, replacing belts, but failing to remove and inspect the vacuum pump gauze. Whilst I don't have a proven example of failure, note that there are two silicone diaphragms in the vacuum pump. One that we're all aware of causing turbo issues, but there is another (almost identical) one that is part of brake servo assistance. Don't confuse partial vacuum - created by the vacuum pump for the braking system and turbo wastegate operation, with boost pressure in the inlet tract - created by the turbocharger.

There's always the 2.5i 🙂

Of the 1% of breakdowns being ev ( according to the AA) . The other 83.2 % will be made up of tyre punctures, remote fobs lost keys, etc and the odd BMS, traction battery, eml light on . Lad at work used to work for the RAC until 12 months ago and said mostly it was 12v battery issues like petrol and diesel.

I've moved a car on a sloped driveway before, hadn't been driving all that long, it just needed rolling back a bit. Didn't start the engine, brakes felt fine for the first couple of touches, then nothing, ah!

I'd seriously rather have a 1.0 Ecoboost with a busted belt and catch the bus, than an electric car

If you get the rear window operating again by doing the reset with the battery, have you tried lowering the window all the way down with the switch and then try opening the roof ? As Tom has said it could be more of a fault with the window control, but on these cars the roof control and the window operation is very interlinked. It would be useful to know if the roof will operate (both down and back up) if you have got the rear window down.

This sounds like a window fault, with the roof being an effect of that. I think it'll be something to do with the drivers door switch panel or the wiring between that and the GEM.

Messenger is owned by Facebook. Or 'Meta' as it's called now. Facebook, Messenger, Whatsapp & Instagram all owned by Meta.

I think I have found the part. Think it’s the vacuum pump. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386819698166?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=1Nv24s9OQo6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=tfUCTO7yQA2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Don't use that either LOL Only 'comms' thing I use is Skype which I've used for over 15 years, and text. I'm a man of simple means...😂

Those plastic levers are a terrible idea. This is the type I'd prefer. Probably still worth going round the property once a year turning them off and on to keep them free though.

Plus £36 postage from Spain... 🤭

You're too modest!😀 But yes, you can see how it's driven in the video I linked about halfway down page 9.

Remember standard cruise control cannot see what's ahead. So it will keep the power on even if you're approaching a downhill section. This is where a driver could lift off to save some fuel. Likewise at the bottom of a hill, a driver will gradually increase throttle as they approach the incline. But cruise control has to wait until the speed drops, then dump a load of extra fuel in to get up the hill. In theory, a perfect driver should use less fuel than cruise control. But the perfect driver doesn't exist. Humans are always hampered by some sort of distraction or emotion. The limiter doesn't save any fuel if you're an attentive driver. All it does is stop you straying over the speed limit. So if you weren't over the limit before switching on the limiter, it won't make any difference. Having said all that, I would recommend using cruise control in a 50mph section. It leaves your mind clearer to focus on other hazards. It saves the strain on your foot. And cruise control won't become tired and less efficient as the journey goes on...

Check the headlight leveling fuse. Either F39 or F43

I'm genuinely amazed so many of us seem to have the same door handles!

I order, sign up, then cancel, they've not caught on YET !

Hello I'm from West Midlands currently have a 2.5t smax

The only physical difference is the auto engine has a balancer shaft, whereas the manual has an unbalanced flywheel. So balance the flywheel🤪 Other than that, it should be ok, so perhaps you have a poorly fitted connector or a damaged wire somewhere. Have you used the complete engine harness from your original engine, not the auto engine? If you haven't, fit your original, manual engine harness. Check the throttle body is the same spec as the original too, if not, put your manual throttle body back on Auto doesn't have a TCM

Pretty sure you can just buy the springs for them 🤔 Looks like the same handles as ours. Doors and handles being replaced slowly, 14 down, 3 to go!

....and a Starting handle, and a clip on parking light 🤣

Been to an independent today who had a good look over the car, and found the following: no leaks from 2 smoke tests. Checked the solenoid and mass air flow meter and both were fine. They suspect the map is wreaking havoc somewhere and causing the ECU to think something is wrong with the turbo where perhaps nothing is. They have suggested having the map removed and go back to stock as they are totally unable to reset and values on the ECU at present. Will look into doing that next and take it back to them to calibrate the ECU and see if anything is actually wrong other than gremlins

That information came from Wilco...so I would generally trust it.

I now know why you are such an expert in fixing cars, everything you touch seems to break! 🤣

My petrol Mk4 Focus had an electric brake booster... Horrible pedal feel, but at least it's not going to clog with bits of wetbelt.

The button, as stated above, just mutes the radio. Pretty sure now there's no Bluetooth functionality. IAM charging for 24 hours the battery, as it's only now dropping a volt or so overnight. Will see how it gets on

It's also built in to the design, EPAS means they can run much quicker steering racks on newer cars, you don't need the leverage of the steering ratio to turn the wheel if an electric motor is helping you. I have driven my car without EPAS. 235 profile tyres with "the quickest rack fitted to a Ford" (from the PR iirc) is really hard going at low speed. It felt like I was going to brake something (in the end it was mostly my arms, lol).

I shudder to think what would happen to my car if I ever had to give a younger driver a tow now, between the Brakes and no Power Steering. It was common place when I was younger because cars were not as reliable and no one I knew could afford a nearly new one.

I think that's a good point. I would guess that many drivers now have never driven a car without servo assistance and don't realise that if you lose the servo, the brakes should still function but need a much harder push. Of course, it's ok saying that on a forum, but out on the road, when your brakes suddenly don't respond to the usual gentle touch, it must be very scary.

Difficult to advise without knowing more about what your plans and preferences are. If you tend to keep cars for 10 years or more then a grand on a wet belt isn't that much in the grand scheme of things (and likely would be a one-off event unless you would keep the car for 15 or 20 years). It sounds like you like the car and have looked after it so if I were you I'd get the belt done and keep on enjoying it. It's what we've done with my wife's 2013 Fiesta - she still loves it and I doubt we'll be replacing the car for a good few years yet.

Mine does, but it is 19 years old LOL