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A little gift , here are the PDF electrical wiring diagrams for the Ford Focus Focus Mk2/2.5 + ST PDF dated 2010 - Click Here Focus Mk3 PDF dated 2011 , not ST - Click Here Very usefull indeed if your trying to figure out additions to your car or find wiring Regards Preee Focus 2011 Wiring.pdf entire_schematics_ph8m5t-70000-ad.pdf

Please remember folks, that the "New Member Introductions" area is just to say "Hi, My name is... I drive a .... and I am interested in...." Please do not post "should I change...." or "What do you think...." or any other conversations in this area, only post hello's and if you are looking for help then you need to post elsewhere (please read on). 1) If your driving one of the main Ford Groups (Fiesta, Focus, CMAX, SMAX, Galaxy, Sierra etc) then please post your questions, advice, guidance, how do I's in this appropriate category if it refers to your car. for example "My Fiesta wont start" - Fiesta forum. "My CMAX blew up" - CMAX section. "My Mondeo is driving me crazy" - Mondeo Section. If your posting about a particular make of car, put it in that section. 2) Only post in the "Guides" sections if you are posting a guide (like you see in Haynes!) on how to do something. "A guide on how to remove the pollen filter from a Focus" - Focus Forum - Focus Guides sub forum. "A guide on how to replace a battery on a Fiesta" - Fiesta Section - Fiesta Guides Sub Forum 3) If you have questions, or suggestions of a cleaning / detailing nature - "How should I wash my car?" or "what polish can I use to make my car sparkle" belong in the detailing and cleaning section. All of these will help you to best get a response. Please do not post anything and everything into either the introductions, or the "general chat" sections. On this forum, we have a lot of members, who between them have an excellent level of knowledge in specific car area's, and they tend to congregate more so in their own area's. If you want a quick answer, Post directly in that section and someone can hopefully come back to you soon. Please DO NOT post multiple copies of the same thread and/or post, as these are likely to be removed. Please review the main forum page, and familiarize yourself with the categories and forum's that we have. We are here to help, and as a forum, pride ourselves as being the best on the net (top of most ford related searches!) as such, to ensure that you get the best from us as a new member, please help yourselves, and help us to get back to you sooner rather than later.

Well it has taken what seems to be an age but the RS has finally arrived. And god it's awesome. Here's the back story of order to delivery which I decided to keep pretty much to myself as I knew the wait would be hard enough without sharing the pain with you guys. February 2016 - Never thinking I could ever afford an RS and that the Fiesta ST MP215 would be the pinnacle of my Ford ownership I saw an advert on a Ford dealer website offering repayments of almost exactly what I was paying for the ST. But wait what about the insurance I here you ask? OK that's what I was asking anyway. So I did a quote and found that the premium was actually a few pounds less than for the ST. Oh god that makes it feasible. So off I trotted to my local Stoneacre dealer to see my friendly salesman Steve. We sat down and placed the order. RS mk3 in Nitrous blue, standard seats with blue bolsters, lux pack, 19" forged alloy wheels, sync2 nav system and door edge protectors. Fantastic everything I want and expected build date to be October 2016. £1000 deposit paid. Only problem is that RS orders can only be placed at Ford Stores and my local isn't one. So the order is placed via the Doncaster branch, he can't see anything on his system so will have to ring Doncaster for everything. Two days later Steve rang me. "Good news and bad news" he says. "Good news is we have a cancellation with a build date of May 2016, bad news no door edge protectors" let me think...I'll have it!!!! March 2016 - Then the horror stories start to come out of the forums and Ford themselves. Oil leaks on the production line no cars being released and many a potential owner getting ***** off. Then I get the dreaded call. "Your build date is being put back to June but you can have the door edge protectors" Well that's OK one month extra but everything I wanted, I can live with that. April 2016 - bad news continues. Build date back to July. June 2016 - Build date back to October. News on the RS forum that the winter pack, (heated seats and steering wheel) not previously available in UK but was in Spain, I don't understand either, is now available in UK. Get me that I tell Steve but only if it doesn't delay the order any further. He gets it on the build schedule, happy days. I also find out that one of the reasons for the delay is that Ford have run out of Nitrous Blue paint. Seriously? Sack the guy responsible for that. August 2016 - Ford Fair is quite painful as all I can see are RS's at ever turn. October 2016 - Sent an email to the RS team at Ford UK. Can you confirm my build date please? Reply states it might be December but two week shut down over Christmas means it might be the New Year. Enough is enough now. I'm very unhappy and seriously considering cancelling my order. So I march off to the dealers. Steve checks and is told that they have a build date of 10th November. Another email to Ford UK later that day to be told, "actually yes build date is 10 November and here's your VIN number. Whooop. Straight onto ETIS and there it is and they started building on the 8th two days early. November 2016 - Over the next few weeks I watch the car being built including an upgrade to Sync 3. Then I remember we've never actually sat down and worked out the finance in detail. Better get that done then. Off to see Steve, he's nowhere to be seen. Off sick I'm told he's had an operation and not due back till the New Year. *****. Anyway Paul says don't worry we'll sort it. What did Steve arrange for you. So I told him. "Seriously? That's a cracking deal." says Paul. I'll see what I can do. December 2016 - 5th - Paul rings. Car has landed at the dealers. If we can sort the finance you can pick it up on the 10th. God I'm nearly wetting myself now. Problem is they can't find any of Steve's paperwork, great. We discuss the finance and of course the screw tightens, your ST is now 9 months older and has 10k more miles on it so its only worth......f*** all. Jeez what now? A bit of hard talking and I get another £2k out of him. That's better. But I still need to find a bit more cash and the payments are £50 more per month than the ST. Just before Xmas, not good timing. So I juggle some finances around cancel the wife's Xmas presents, joking, and no problem I'll come in tomorrow to sign the papers. 6th- Where's Paul? His day off! Ahmed will sort it, he's the sales manager. We sit down and he gets the finance details up on screen. Your payments ill be £330 a month! No they f***ing won't be, says I. He's only quoted me on the current increased list prices not the cost when I ordered back in February. So panic over. Finance signed, Collection agreed for 11am 10th December. Saturday 10th December- The BIG day - Drove the ST, on fumes, to Doncaster, it needs 4 new tyres, current ones are like slicks, and the 3rd year service which I never got done and saved myself over £500 in total, so if you buy it make sure these have been sorted. I'll miss that car it has brought me 3 years of driving pleasure and many great memories. I arrive at the dealers to see the car in the showroom covered with a Ford car cover but the profile is unmistakable. I sign what seems to be every page of the bible hand over the ST keys and V5. OK sir if you'd like to take the cover off your new car? ***** hell not half I'd like to; Right that's all the buttons explained, phone paired let's get this show on the road. Hope I like it? Like it, it's chuffing amazing. What a car, like brown stuff off a shovel, more comfortable than the ST and sport mode transforms it into something else. I'm never going to tire of this. Here's a couple of photo's on the way home. And it's first wash That's all for now guys. I'll try update this thread over the coming weeks and months but it's hard when you never get out of the driving seat.

😀🎉 🎉 This morning my daughter had a baby girl. I'm now officially a Grandad 🎉🎉😀

Sync 1 / 1.1 to Sync 2 Retrofit Guide Disclamer:- This guide is intended as an advice document only. You attempt the actions in this guide at your own risk. I will not be held responsible if you brick any modules or break your car. This conversion involves rewiring your existing cars wiring and should only be attempted by a competent and experienced person. Right! Now that’s my ***** covered lets get started! I couldn’t have done this conversion if it weren’t for the information available out there, sadly not much of this is in English or applicable specifically to the focus however it gave me the understanding of what needed to be done to carry this out and I will be linking to some of this information throughout the guide. Parts – Sync 2 APIM Sync 2 ACM Sync 2 FCDIM Sync 2 Fascia Sync 2 Media Hub + loom GPSM module - DE8T-19H463-DC Media hub bezel - finis number - 5326708 Mini USB to Mini USB cable Nav maps Pins - mouser - 1924955-4 HSD Code E plug or Fakra Z ( if you have OEM reverse camera ) Forscan ( with extended license ) and FoCCCus software I started by completely stripping out the car, partly because I wanted to wet vac the seats and partly because of ease of access. You don’t have to remove the seats but I strongly recommend the center console, and all the fascia panels. The sync 2 fascia doesn’t fit straight away, some trimming is required around the bottom, start by cutting off the locating lugs and then trim little by little until it fits nicely against the a/c panel the panel is held down by the 2 center holes in the same way the original is. Once your happy the fascia fits nicely then remove the fascia and a/c panel to reveal the sync unit, this is held in place by 3 screws and can be disconnected and removed. The sync connector needs to be rerouted to the top of the dash, there is plenty of length there it just needs to pulled back to the main loom and then directed up to the top of the dash. At this point it’s a good idea to tape back and secure and cables that you will no longer need, in my case it was the blue, pink and black fakra connectors from the fcdim module. Now peel back the insulation on the sync connector and give yourself plenty of exposed cabling to do the swaps required, unlatch the 2 clips and slide off the connector cover. *top tip* label any wires that are going to be moved or removed in case you ever revert to sync 1 or get lost with where the wire came from. Once you have swapped the 2 MM-can wires the unit can then be plugged in and will power up for basic testing, note that once plugged in the unit takes a few minutes to power up, it also does this everytime it reboots, don't panic! The pin swaps are highlighted in the pdf After you’ve completed the pin swaps its time to add in the additional wiring for the media hub, reverse camera adaptor (if fitted) ms-can and fcdim connector. I ordered the pins for the sync connector from mouser and although they work they are a little tight and did need to be manipulated in. if I were to do the job again I would buy a sync connector cut from a loom and remove the pigtails to solder onto *top tip* For the ms-can input you can tap into anything that runs on the ms-can network, I found the wires in the blue connector for the a/c panel. They will be the only external connections that you need to make. The gpsm is to be installed under the rear view mirror cover, for me the plug was already there so make sure to check this beforehand. To install the media hub I used 2 good quality usb to usb mini leads connected with a usb coupler. The media hub is mounted in a bezel from a mk5 mondeo, the finis part number I have attached above. For the fascia panel the radio controls are connected by mm-can as opposed to lin like the original. You need to add one pin and cut and solder onto the existing pin in the plug for them to work. For the acm connector you need to move 2 wires across from the main loom and into the accessory loom this is to transmit the tmc data to the screen for the naviagation traffic. If you’ve got this far, well done! The hard work is over. Time to tidy up your cabling, and bolt everything into place. *top tip* install the apim and screen first before sliding the acm into place. Pop in your nav card ( f6 is the most recent ) and also worth updating the software to the latest version (3.10) Put the rest of the car back together and grab yourself a brew, next up is coding! Using forscan plug yourself into the car, *top tip* if you’ve previously used forscan on the car delete any previous profile and scan it as a new car. If you don’t it wont pick up the newly installed gpsm module. You will likely have a bunch of dtc codes, clear them and see what comes back. There will be 1 dtc that definitely wont clear and that is for the central locking led in the bcm. There will also be errors on the acm which currently cannot have its as built data modified, however this doesn’t seem to cause any problems. Programmming the APIM Here comes the fun part. The apim will need to be coded to the spec of your car. The easiest way to do this is using the ford as built data. The way to do this is find a facelift focus with the same options as yours. For example mine is a titanium x, and the facelift titanium x has the same features as mine. To do this hop onto ebay or autotrader and find a facelift focus with the same features as yours, make a note of the registration and go to the ford etis website ( www.etis.ford.com )enter the reg and make a note of the vin number. Then you need to go to the motorcraft service website ( www.motorcraftservice.com ) click free resources and then quick guides. Towards the bottom of the list is an option for Module Build Data ( as – built ) hit this and enter the vin number you got from etis. This gives you the module as built data that you will need to programme the apim. Download the file and save it to your computer. Open up forscan and click on the icon that looks like a computer chip. You will see an option that says apim ( as-built format ) run this and load the file from your download ( don’t forget to change the file type to .ab in the search bar ) click write all and follow the instructions on screen. Once done you will see sync reboot and if you have done everything correctly it should now be programmed to your cars features. At this point you still aren’t done, you will notice that the voice control still doesn’t work correctly. Now we need to change a few things in the bcm and ipc. Open up foCCCus and load up the central config for your car, save a backup before you change anything!!! The lines you need to change are – 123 – Audio Aux Input change the value to 01 (without) 125 – DAB Radio System change the value to 01 (without) 154 – Module USB change the value to 01 (without) 157 – Bluetooth Handsfree change the value to 01 (without) 172 – Front Display change the value to 09 (DM8 with nav) 214 – ICP change the value to 09 Write these changes to both the bcm and the ipc. This got everything working 95% percent for me. I had to make some further changes to enable optical display for the parking sensors and the active park assist. I did this by modifying the as built data of the apim further by using this guide. ( https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=1479139836 ) Im expecting some questions and I will help the best I can as im sure there are bits I have missed! Focus Sync Conversion table.pdf

As you accelerate off, throw a few of these out your window!

its is sort of related , some years old was in a car park walking back to my car a woman had put a shopping bag on my bonnet ,I give her a mouth full her reply was there nothing wrong with me butting it on your bonnet I was steaming , so I got my tool box out of the boot and but it on her bonnet saying nothing wrong with it but it did dent it , her face was a picture

Rear light clustets boot hinges and spoiler seal all leak tell tale signs is a damp or wet boot process of elimination though its best to use quality sealant and seal all 3 suspected areas. Power steering hose just behind the radiator and at the join to the pump are prone to leaks from corrosion recommend every 6 months applying grease to the area such as vaseline to prevent this. Noisy aircon pumps can be from either the bearing or the system needing regassed since the regass is cheap its best trying this first also the ti vct uses a different aircon pump a vss pump which varies the gas so it does not click on and off regularly like older pumps but runs continously. The heated windscreen can fail on one side either its a simple fuse issue to which there are 2 1 for each side or some cars under the scuttle panel have the electrical ribbon loose which gets rubbed by the wipers when in motion causing it to fail. Rear hatch gathers water so when it rains and the boots opened water pours in ford sell 2 self adhesive plastic strips which is supposed to address this issue it helps but doesnt prevent it happening. The design of the door seals means after or during rain once the doors opened water runs into the car there is no fix and its a common issue on the mk2 The aircon drain can get blocked or detatch allowing water into the dtlriver footwell the drain is found behind the plastic panel at the drivers left leg a poke through with a wire hanger usually clears it if loose its best to reattatch with silicone. Dash displays stay lit after the car is locked for between 20-40 minutes the ecu remains live storing vehicle data for this period of time monitoring under bonnet temperatures once the ecu shuts down the display remains off displays which stay on for long periods such as overnight usually have pcm issues which bbereman can repair cheap. Despite fords its galvanised claims the focus rusts particularly on the front and rear sills as well as front and rear arches therefore its imperative you deal with paint chips pretty quickly. Rear bushes like the mk1 are prone to wear around the 5 year mark some are easy to change some are not. The ti vct can go into limp mode with no power this can be either the ti vct timing relays on top of the engine or the cam itself the cam unit is not easy or cheap to repair so should be left to a dealer the cambelt will also need replaced during this average cost £500 minimum. Worn or cheap brake pads and disks can cause a distinct click when braking. A noise like a knock or thump between 10-15 mph is the abs test and is normal should happen only once usually when first using the car. Poor idle can be due to the pcv valve needing replaced the springs weaken and can gunge up for the sake of £10 its best to replace this. Rear drums prone to sticking in cold damp weather a clunk will be heard from the rear as it unsticks getting under the rear and spraying wd40 on the rear handbrake cables both sides before winter sets in can cure if not help this. Paint removal on the sills lower doors front and rear is common a plastic protector should be attatched though this helps its advised to fit mudflaps even this will not stop road salt blasting paint away but reduces the effects dramatically. Wind noise from the front windows is common often sounds like the window is open slightly when its not ford have no fix for this the mk2.5 recieved thicker door seals and glass to prevent this. Rattles from under the car more often than not are loose heatshields or a broken rear or midfle exhaust hanger a new exhaust is not needed since the hanger detatches at the exhaust removing from the hanging rubber and buying a bracket clamp from ebay for £8 solves the issue and is easy to fit. Rear washers not working can be a detatched hose inside the spoiler or a detatched hose in the car at the driver rear in the headlining where it stops at the boot For winter a good screenwash used pure down to -10 -20 such as preston is needed as the screenwash bottle is under the wheel arch liner and will freeze heated washers wont defrost this. leaky washer jets is common upgraded parts available but still leak only answer is to silicone them Check all electrics work as they should let the car idle and sit in it any bad shudders could indicate the coil pack plugs and leads need replaced to solve misfires its best to do all 3 and use dielectric grease on the spark plug terminals at the plugs and coil pack. Dpf failures are common and expensive however its possible to get companies to remove the dpf fault by removing the dpf altogether saving a small fortune and endless headache Diesel issues ill leave to the diesel owners

Thought I would post a rare good news story about my 2013 MK3 Focus 1.0 EcoBoost, which has just had its wet belts changed at 202,000km. I bought the car in 2016 when it already had 149,000km on the clock. Service history was all from Ford and the car seemed to have led an easy life despite the high mileage. Presumably it was mainly used on the motorway. Since then, it has averaged only 8000km per year, probably 15-20% short trips, the rest longer runs. I'm ashamed to admit that although I roughly kept to the service schedule in terms of mileage, the low mileage meant that it went up to three years without an oil change 😬. It has only been serviced two times since I bought it, once by an independent in 2018 and once by me in June 2021. Both times the correct Ford-specification oil was used. All I can say in my defence was that I had a young child and only discovered the time-bomb nature of the EcoBoost engine last year (at which point I immediately serviced it and upgraded the degas hose to MK3.5 spec). Anyhoo, since finding out about the risk of wet belt fibres blocking the oil pump I've been worrying about the condition of the belts (and the engine) and whether it was worth changing them or just getting rid of the car. In the end I decided that I would get it done despite the eye-watering cost here in Sweden (£1,700), because I like the car, I believe in maintaining things to extend their life, and I knew that to replace it would ultimately either cost lots more money (to buy something significantly newer) or mean buying a similar age car but of unknown history. When I booked that car in I asked them to call me when the sump was off so I could inspect the oil pump and the belts, and I was delighted to see that the oil pump pick-up gauze was clean and the belts appeared to be in great condition. The mechanic said everything looked really good. I can now be reasonably confident it was worth doing the job and I hope to get a good few more years life out of the car. So, it appears a slightly dodgy (but not too terrible) service history on a 1.0 EcoBoost, operating in harsh-ish (cold winters) conditions, need not be a certain-death sentence for the wet belts. Having also just replaced the AC compressor (and the discs and pads last summer), I look forward to the gearbox falling out or a tree falling on it sometime in the near future.

Hi Guys / Gals I understand that some have had concerns as to my welfare due to my uncustomary silence. Rest assured I am still around and do look in on everything, however my workload has been horribly time consuming as of late. Hopefully i will be back to my usual (annoying) self on the club shortly. Sorry Fellas, you haven't got rid of me yet. Keep on driving and remember to keep the shiny side up.

Just taking stock coming up to the new year, and realised I joined this forum almost 5 years ago. I think I wanted an initial query on what model Focus I owned LOL The usefulness of this forum cannot be underestimated. Especially when you own a car heading into it's 19th year of life when it was designed to be disposed of after 5 years. It still amazes me the the level of expertise you find here, and the level of camaraderie to get problems sorted, and to simply have a yarn & a laugh about life in general. Although maybe not 'friends' in the traditional sense, there are folk on here I would class as such, and know I can rely on for help. Just wanted to say, 'Thank you...'

The wait is finally over. I've picked up this beauty yesterday and had a chance to get to know her a little bit. This is my first sports car and a dream that I've always wanted to achieve so I can't express how happy I am. How does it drive? Very good! I was surprised how livable this car can be. The engine is amazing, it pulls in every gear, even at low RPM. The steering is heavy but very precise and in my humble opinion it is not nearly as hard as some reviewers have discussed. The 19' rims and low profile tyres are completely ok, really. My favourite thing has got to be the sound. Its loud, even in normal. Turning it on feels super special, and the pops and bangs (which I know is childish but very desirable for me) are loud and fun. Also the colour. Its unique for sure, but I think that the Fury Orange looks better. I'd strongly recommend trying to see the colour in person before spending big money on it. I think the regular colours might suit the car just a tad bit better. Its still a head turner and I'm pleased regardless. I've been told to keep it easy for the first 2000 km, not taking it above 3000 RPM and to be mindful of oil temperature and pressures. I've come from a Focus MK4 so I can also talk a little bit about the differences between the ST and the ST-line (if any one is interested). Unless you are not a proper car enthusiast who's always dreamed of a sports car. As crazy as it sounds the 155 km or the 180 km Focus hatchback will probably suffice. Yes the 280 HP is much more and you feel the torque, but for everyday 155 km will be enough. The 1.0 125 km I had didn't pull well enough at all. Suspension wise, its much stiffer in the ST, but for everyday the ST-line is more comfortable and also fun. And of course exhaust and sound - not comparable. ST is next level. The 4.5 mk does have cost cutting (as mentioned by other users). I miss the side cubby the most (where I placed my garage keys) and there is a lack of ambient lighting (which I believe was available in the mk4). For anyone still waiting for their Focus. Its 100% worth the wait, it drives so well and the interior changes I'm generally pleased with.

Finally picked the car up yesterday after the long wait!

Well the all mighty update v3.10 is here before i was sending the download link only for Language pack 2 and via PM. But now it is already available for all other language packs. I have used the original Language Pack2 update and edited it for all other EU language packs that were available on the Russian site: chipford.ru The installation is the same as before so: 1. Download and unzip onto USB stick (formatted to FAT32) 2. On the USB stick you should have only: "SyncMyRide" folder and "autoinstall.lst" file 3. Start your car, engine must be running all the time 4. Plugin the USB in you car and the installation will start automatic. Installation time approx. 22 minutes. After the installation the SYNC will have no saved data from Phone or Navigation - so you have to set it up all again. For those who have the NAVIGATION activated additionally - you won't loose it after this USB update. And of course, UPDATE ON YOUR OWN RISK ! DOWNLOAD LINKS: EU Language Pack 1 - German, English (British), Russian, Turkish: https://mega.nz/#!wUgHySTC!i2YQMUxLhTQiBrjnNYQ1TsZSGqSBRa1LEOepfFpb1Mw EU Language Pack 2 - German, English (British), Russian: https://mega.nz/#!gRICRBrB!9JNa7d3_3Mn2SEZ-iKyfY4ac6scb4UjogmEwdke5B_I EU Language Pack 3 - German, English (British), French, Italian: https://mega.nz/#!4YRDDRLD!tZMhM-o8nAJ-pJSgrfqX3XpYqeiX4DEZ15UCnB1LwUY EU Language Pack 4 - German, English (British), French, Swedish: https://mega.nz/#!1RhW0RpC!AKl1rA96-kc3zYUdOjWKJP4yxjj4uqKlrPCyKCPzPeo EU Language Pack 5 - English (British), Spanish, French, Portuguese: https://mega.nz/#!cc4HSKwa!2evt2tQmfe8deCfyHZgsfCkkkB77lp5r5o_yra9Y31A EU Language Pack 6 - German, English (British), French, Dutch: https://mega.nz/#!dA4QDRZS!WsA-gbxK-MZjMGp9plZSjIYUhd6us_nWQAzLiNKW4p8 AND it is not suitable for North American My Ford Touch !

Right, here we go again! Went out this morning and the boot was dry but when i pulled the grommet out underneath the car it was full of water again!!! This called for some more investigation so off came the back bumper. Turns out the vents fitted behind the bumper were a poor fit so they were not sealed properly. You could see where water had tracked down from the roof past the lights etc and then onto the top edge of the vent. Once the vent was removed it was obvious that was where the water was getting into the cavity as it was full of dirty rain water residue between the clips highlighting that the seal had failed. I cleaned all the surrounding area and dried the cavity and insulation out with a hair drier, this took some time as the insulation was saturated. You can see through the body cut out in the pic above where the underside grommet is removed to let the water out. This was replaced when everything was reassembled. Once that was all clean and dry I siliconed around the open edge of the body and also the back of the vents for good measure before clipping it back into place and smoothing the silicone around the edges. I did this to both side vents and both rear vents to be on the safe side. Basically what was happening was the water was tracking down behind the light cluster and getting into the body of the car via the poor seal on the vent. This caused the cavity to fill with water and then when driving the car and going around corners the water was spilling over into the boot floor area through a hole about 20mm up from the bottom of the cavity. I hope this helps somebody as I couldnt find any information regarding boot leaks on mk3's anywhere and Ford were useless as seals are only guaranteed for 12 months! I will remove the grommet again next weekend to make sure it is finally 100% sorted but all the signs were there to suggest it is. Im just hoping there is no secondary leak point!

Sent from my iPad using Ford OC

A lot of people having been asking recently for specific bulbs for their fiesta so i thought I'd post a quick guide to the most recent models as a referrence point. Fiesta Mk5 (95-02) Dipped Beam - 472 H4 Headlight Bulbs Main Beam - 472 H4 Headlight Bulbs Front Fog - 448 H1 Headlight Bulbs Side Light - 501 Capless Front Indicator - 581 Bayonet Indicator Bulb Rear Indicator - 382 Single Contact Rear Back Light - 380 Double Contact Brake Light - 380 Double Contact Rear Fog - 382 Single Contact Reverse Light - 382 Single Contact Number Plate - 501 Capless Interior Light - 245 Single Contact Fiesta Mk6 (02-08) Dipped Beam - 472 H4 Headlight Bulbs Main Beam - 472 H4 Headlight Bulbs Front Fog - 711 H11 Headlight Bulbs Side Light - 501 Capless Front Indicator - 581 Bayonet Indicator Bulb Rear Indicator - 581 Bayonet Indicator Bulb Rear Back Light - 380 Double Contact Brake Light - 380 Double Contact Rear Fog - 382 Single Contact Reverse Light - 955 W16W Number Plate - 239 Festoon Bulb Interior Light - 265 Festoon Bulb Interior Map Lights - 501 Bayonet T10 Fiesta Mk7 (08>) Dipped Beam - 499 H7 Headlight Bulbs Main Beam - 448 H1 Headlight Bulbs Front Fog - 711 H11 Headlight Bulbs Side Light - 501 Capless Front Indicator - 581 Bayonet Indicator Bulb Rear Indicator - 581 Bayonet Indicator Bulb Rear Back Light - 380 Double Contact Brake Light - 380 Double Contact Rear Fog - 382 Single Contact Reverse Light - 955 W16W Number Plate - 501 Capless Interior Light - 501 Capless Facelift Fiesta Mk7 (same bulbs as above with the following exceptions) DRL's/Main Beam - H15 I believe this list of bulbs to be correct. I am of course open to corrections also if anyone would like to post a list of previous fiestas pm me with the bulb sizes and i will update the list. Why not visit http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/?partner=901615 and use the club discount code; ACI005

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Hiya Everyone, Ok i hope admin do not mind this post as it is a little off the beaten track but hope it will be allowed . I have been on this forum for about 10 months and have been amazed at how brilliant a forum it is . It is well run,easy to navigate but for the most part the thing that makes it great is for the most part there is very little attitude and even if a question is posted by a newbie thats been asked before there is usually someone willing to help out. Now just before i got my car i asked LOTS of questions and continued to do so after with some brilliant replies.But here is the reason i did so and will maybe make folk think in future about posting. I am 43 now but at the age of 24 i was a succesful healthy guy working in London for a global Architectural firm and playing semi pro football in my spare time but my other passion was cars.I would love in the early 90's doing up a couple of Astra SRI's and a GTE as well as a beloved Renault 5 GT Turbo.It was my drug.When folk i knew were smoking weed i would not touch it as i wanted to put money into getting the next bit for the car ICE system etc. I had just finished a 4 year diploma course and to celebrate went abroad.On the final day i got very sick and from that day my life changed . They could not find what it was and i went into a dowbward spiral . I ended up losing everything,job,life savings,pension,girlfriend,many "friends" but worst was my freedom and my car . It turned out i had a bad case of CFS/ME . For 5 years i was totally housebound and would spent days on end in bed thinking why me and wishing i was able to enjoy life but was not to be . I also dreamed one day of being able to even travel 2 miles because i had and still to this day have 24 hour nausea and travelling was near impossible for a further 5 years but slowly things improved. I will never be fully healthy it would seem but the past 3 years i now have a gf who has helped me beyond belief and actually this coming friday i am attempting to travel to Amsterdam,a journey which has not been possible since 1996 ! But the biggest deal to me was i sold the last of the things i had and was helped a little to raise some funds and finally got a sports car . I could have gone for an old banger but i vowed i would do my best that one day i would get back something sporty i could be proud of.As i am not able to work i dont have an endless pot but managed to in February get my 2010 Zetec s . Ok it is a bit under powered for a 1.8 and the suspensions hard as hell but it is MY car. Now why am i rambling on about this you may ask on a car forum ? Well as i had been out of the loop i really needed the help of those who are passionate and knowledgable about their cars.I needed reassurance that i was doing the right thing and also a helping hand to sort things if they went wrong . Well right here is where i have had all of that . In the first month the amount of questions i was asking no doubt a few thought i was a pain in the bum,i hope i was not to annoying but i will never forget the help during the first month from the legends that are Lenny and Salsheikh.You gave me enough confidence to take the gamble to go for it and have helped since many many times and i will be eternally grateful . Lenny you said a few times to me that you do it in the hope those you help will help others . Well i am no guru but each time i see a newbie ask i always try to help if i can now because YOU said that. So what i am saying is maybe as a bit of a chritmas lesson to us all is that yes some questions can crop up a few times and no doubt we have all done the "Oh lord how many times has it been asked?" when we have seen some questions but maybe just maybe there may be more to why the questions being asked as you can maybe see by my case. So i would just like to say a huge thank you for all the help you have given a single user who has been down on his luck but has fought back and got one of his dreams back thanks in no short measure to all you guys . Be it the legends like Lenny and Sal,be it the mechanical experts or the amateure tinkerer , be it the admin here or the casual user we all share the same love of cars and have a wonderful community.And in this time of terror attacks etc it is so nice to have a little haven here like this. So may i be one of the first to wish every single member here an amazing Christmas and the most happy and healthy (And heavily overspent on your Focus haha) 2016 . Cheers guys Jon

It’s being discontinued because “SUVs” and crossovers are higher margin. They can sell you a Puma at a higher price than a fiesta even though they are the same platform. Same with the Kuga on the focus platform. People will (did?) pay more because they thought they were getting more car for their money when in reality they are just over paying for the same platform. It’s higher margins on these unnecessarily bigger cars and the marketing to convince people they want them that have killed the hatchbacks.

To all Moderating / Admin staff, members new, old, past, present and yet to come- May I wish all that celebrate it a very Merry Christmas and a suitably enjoyable New Year. Hopefully I'll be more regular in the new year as I endeavour to transit into a new and less demanding career which should afford me more free time.

She was a mum, grandmother and great grandmother who was working up until 2 days before her death aged 96. For that alone she deserves respect whatever folks views on royalty.

Definitely will have it, sick of having tests every time some scum spits at me. Wife will defo have it too as she is a covid ward nurse so has seen first hand just how nasty the virus is. I think anyone who is a virus conspiracy nut or refuses the jab should be made to work a shift on a red ward and see the true horrors. Personally I think anyone that refuses the anti-virus for no other reason than they want to make a political statement is selfish and narrow minded. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Hi folks. Been away for quite a while but with good reason. The titanium is gone: Really sad to see it go. But the ST2 is here [emoji16]: Some of you may know how long I've been crying about one of these so this is a really big deal for me lol I actually can't believe I finally have one. Delighted to say the least. It's mostly down to my wife that I was able to afford this car so I'm eternally greatful for what she's done for me. ST2 with style pack. 2 owners, 42k miles and 4x Michelin winter tyres included with sale: £10k This'll be a slow progress thread as usual but there will be small updates soon enough. [emoji41] Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk

how do i get my car key reprogramed after the batterys have failed

After a lot of searching, reading and translating, I came across direct links to Ford servers hosting the official EU upgrade files for Sync 2. No need to sign up to the Ford India website, just download, extract to the root of a FAT32 formatted USB stick and away you go. I did use the Ford India website to determine which language pack matches to my VIN for use in the UK. It shouldn't really matter as all EU language packs include British English, but I get a bit OCD so wanted to know which one Ford would use. That turned out to be Language Pack 5. I have read that you may need a minimum of the F4 SD card or newer, however everyone with Sync 2 in the EU should have F4 following the recall (if you have Nav fitted). Here is the full list of the Oct 15 update, if you are not from the UK, but another EU country, you need to make sure you download the correct language pack to include the language you want to be able to speak (and have spoken) to the car in: Language Pack 1 - German, English (British), Russian, Turkish: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack1Rev4.zip Language Pack 2 - German, English (British), Polish, Russian: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack2Rev4.zip Language Pack 3 - German, English (British), French, Italian: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack3Rev4.zip Language Pack 4 - German, English (British), French, Swedish: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack4Rev4.zip Language Pack 5 - English (British), Spanish, French, Portuguese: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack5Rev4.zip - This is the one I used Language Pack 6 - German, English (British), French, Dutch: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack6Rev4.zip US/NA Only (for our cousins across the pond): http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageNARev2.zip For 3.10, please see this post: Once you have downloaded and extracted the zip to the root of a USB drive (min 2GB formatted as FAT32), you need to remove all other USB sticks/devices from the ports on the car (Nav SD can be left in), then start the engine and turn off auto/stop start. Plug the USB in and it should auto detect the update files, then just follow the on screen instructions. You need to give yourself at least 30 mins for the update to install, in that time you can drive the car, but remember that anything normally displayed on the screen will not be available (rear view cam, sensor distance, etc.). Here are some before, during and after pics: Big thanks to this post on focus fanatics for the url and available files.

I know I'm not around much now but I would like to introduce Wally-

Hi all. This is by no means goodbye. I'm gonna obsess over this forum just like I have for the last 9 months watching others receive and enjoy their new cars. From what my dealer said, they're really coming through now, and reckons by the end of Jan, most customers waiting a while will have their car. But just wanted to say what a fantastic group you all are. Everyone. I never post in forums online, comment on YouTube videos or have any social media accounts. It's because as soon as you post something with a comma in the wrong place, a misspelt word or get a fact slightly wrong, someone's on your back correcting you / critiquing you. I just can't be bothered with it. This forum though, it never happens. Ever. Just supportive and everyone just wants each other to enjoy their new focus, and care less about whether things are splet proper. Best wishes my friends. I will continue to lurk.

The Beast is home! 140 mile journey back home. Quick review, it's ***** lovely!! Drives as good as it looks, I drove it back relatively slowly, but it wanted to go faster. Cracking stereo, adaptive cruise top notch. Overall, I am impressed, can't wait to do a few more miles in it.

I made a guide on how to install and activate cruise control and this guide is also helpful for some other activation's/deactivation's, have a look (https://bit.ly/2HOtm3s)

Can everyone send this to their dealers..

After 2 weeks waiting for transport at the border my Titanium X arrived. A real beauty and so nice to drive, worth the waiting. Here are some pics guys.

Since the new forum app doesn't display full profile pages, I'm creating this thread which will enable me to link others whom use the app, To my list of self created guides. Thank You, Guide to Fitting Genuine focus Mk2.5 ZetecS rear Diffuser Click Here Guide to Fitting Genuine focus Mk2.5 ZetecS Front Lip spoiler Click Here Full ZetecS Kit Fitted to Mk2.5 Focus Click Here Custom Laser Cut Interior Parts For Your Ford Click Here Guide To Storing Vehicle For Long Periods Click Here Guide To Activating Single & Multi Door Unlock on yor Ford Click Here Guide To Spraying Rear View Mirror Click Here Guide To Changing Lower Front Grill On Mk2.5 Focus Click Here Guide to Fitting Custom Built Climate Controls on Focus Click Here Guide to Fitting New Ford Mist Type Jets on all Models Click Here Guide to Wiper Blade Change Focus Mk2 Mk2.5 Click Here Guide To De-Wiper Rear Of Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here Guide To Fitting Boot Door Umbrella Holder Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here Guide Tow Strap style boot handle Ford Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here The Ultimate Rear Seat Protection Click Here Guide to Fitting additional Boot Light Click Here Guide to Fitting additional 12v Socket in Boot of Focus Click Here Guide to Converting Rear Fog Light To Clear Click Here Guide Fitting Mud Flaps to ST, RS & ZetecS FocusClick Here The Ultimate Reverse Bulb Click Here Guide To Fitting Second Reverse Light Ford Focus Mk2.5 Click Here Guide To Fitting ST Gauge Pod To Focus Dash Click Here Guide to Fitting Auto Dimmer Unit to Gauges or DRL's Click Here Guide Restoration & Fitting Focus ST Recaro Seats in to Mk2 & Mk2.5 Focus Click Here Guide to Fitting Footwell Lighting In Your Ford Click Here Guide to Induction Filter Upgrade in Your Ford Click Here Guide to Fitting Custom Bonnet Dampers Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here Guide to fitting Ford puddle lights Focus 05-12 Click Here Guide to Fitting Genuine focus RS LED tail lights Mk2.5 Click Here Guide to Fitting Aftermarket headunit focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here Guide To fitting 10" HD Flip Down Monitor Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here Custom 10" Sub enclosure & Amp panel Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5Click Here Guide Installing Reverse Camera Focus Mk2.5 2008 - 2011Click Here Guide Fitting Dual Camera DVR System Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5Click Here

You've clearly run out of credit - have you tried putting a few more £1 coins in?

I went in to Starbucks today and the Barista was wearing a face mask. “Why are you wearing a surgical mask?” I asked her. she replied ”it’s not a surgical mask, it’s a Coughy Filter”

Me: Got my modded ELM! Yay! Me 5 mins later: Killed my car. Boo. Me 2 mins and a lot of swearing later: Thank holy turdballs I took a save of the ECU configs! Explanation: Got my ELM as I always like to bugger around with things and see what's what. Fine. Really all I wanted to do was to enable auto door locking when you drive off (I live in Gainsborough. They'll have your wheels off if you're going less than 20mph... ) . Found the setting, changed it to enabled and all seemed good! Unplugged the reader and took 'er for a spin round the block. At 3mph my doors locked and i do this face ---> Shortly afterwards on the same trip I notice my cruise control/limiter controls don't respond. I do this face ---> cos I'm thinking I probably caught another setting without realising. So I pull up at my house and plug the reader back in but stupidly forget to switch the engine off. As FoCCCus grabs my cars settings, the engine cuts out and when FoCCCus loads, a crapload of DTC faults appear on EVERY system (BCM, IPC, etc. But most importantly PCM). I do this face ---> and clear them all with the software - they're all loss of signal faults so I assume its cos the engine cut out on its own but the PCM faults persist. I look down the list and see 'Crash'. I do this face ---> as I realise the car thinks its been involved in a crash as the engine was killed and will not allow it to be started again. Lo and behold it wont start again and I can't clear the fault. I'm now doing this face hoping the wife doesn't hear the car 3 ft from the lounge window not starting --->. Thankfully I also had ForScan which did clear the Crash fault and after restoring the settings from a backup I made at first read the car started fine again. I also re-applied the auto-lock setting and was careful not to touch any others. The Cruise still didn't work immediately, but after cycling the ignition completely the controls responded. Happy ending, but it was Brown Pants time for a few minutes... So the moral of the story: ALWAYS take a backup of your car's settings before you tinker and NEVER use an OBD reader while the engine is running! Just don't be thick like me =]

Picked her up one hour ago ☺ more pics to follow soon. Mk3.5 Focus Titanium X 2015 Deep Impact Blue 1.5 Ecoboost (182)ps Appearance Pack 2 Driver Assist Pack Satnav Heated Steering Wheel Helko Wind deflectors Red caliper painted Brakes Mudflaps front & rear ZS Spoiler (soon) Led's fitted in boot Front/rear Dash cam (not yet fitted) ST Android Pod (not yet fitted) Blue Focus Rubber door mats Blue Focus Door handle inserts

You'll also need to recite this hourly The Fords Prayer Our Focus, the ST is heaven Hallowed be the Escort The Mustang comes Thy Edge is done on earth, so is the Fusion Gives us our Max's: B, C, and S's As we forgive those who Nissan and Peugeot and lead us not into VW but deliver us from Vauxhall For thine is the Transit The Ranger and Fiesta For Ever and Ever Mondeo :D

The Wife's mouth used to rattle on quite a bit about how i drive too fast. Soon put a stop to that, put her in a touring car as a passenger for a quick lap round Thruxton. Haha

Drive the Vauxhall into a wall. Make sure it is solid, as you do not want to be held liable for any vauxhall shaped marks on the wall. If there aren't any walls nearby, drop it off a cliff. I haven't a clue how the two compare according to the info you require. But I can give you the following info: The Fiesta isn't !Removed!, the Vauxhall is. You will get 1,000,000 more street cred, as it has the Ford logo on. The Vauxhall logo removes all dignity and instantly turns the owner into a mong. All the cool people drive Fords, see the following on this owners club. The Vauxhall fans suffer erectile dysfunction, herpes and are 100% more likely to wee themselves. Ditching a Vauxhall for a Ford results in better health, will save dolphins, end World Hunger, and after 5 years of being away from Vauxhall Ownership you will be almost as healthy as you were pre-Vauxhall. Happy to help

Doing the washing up. Running out of bacon and the wife is at work so I have to go and get it myself.

I couldn't find a guide for this on here so thought I'd take a few pictures of the process to help anyone else that may want to do it. All 1.6TDCi/HDi are more or less the same when it comes to the belt kit but the parts removed for access to the belt may be different for different models. Ford recommend 10 years or 100k miles so the facelift Focus' will be coming up to their 10 years now if they haven't covered the mileage. First buy the parts you need - Cambelt kit, auxilliary belt, waterpump, coolant (6 litre capacity, may get away with 5 litres), crank pulley bolt. I also bought a set of timing pins for under a tenner on ebay...but they didn't fit so make sure you've got some drill bits or similar to lock the pulleys! I chose the Dayco kit as that is original to PSA. I checked on removal of old parts, original Focus belt was Dayco, tensioner and idler were INA and waterpump was Pierburg. Up to you which brand to go with. Loosen the OSF wheel nuts. Jack up the car and support it on axle stands. Remove the undertray (7x T30 torx). Remove the OSF wheel and arch liner (6x T30 torx). Remove the engine cover (2x10mm nuts). Remove the auxiliary belt. This is done by pulling the sprung tensioner towards you. I prefer to use a 15mm socket rather than a spanner so there's no risk of slipping off. Ideally pin the tensioner in the open position. Simply slip the belt off the pulleys. Next remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (18mm). This can be done with an impact wrench but mine wasn't that tight, I managed it pretty easily with just a normal 3/4" ratchet. If doing it manually you will need to fit a flywheel locking tool. It is the largest of the timing pins and slots in just above the DPF downpipe. Once the bolt is removed the pulley should then easily lift away. Now support the engine with a trolley jack and block of wood so you can remove the top engine mount. Haynes suggests removing the coolant reservoir for this but you can just pop one of the pipes off, saves risking damage to the reservoir. You will need to remove the 2x T20 screws holding the brake fluid reservoir to the scuttle and just move it out of the way. The 2x mount nuts are 18mm, 2x bolts are 15mm. Next, remove the top and bottom cambelt covers (9x 7mm screws) and the engine mounting mount (bit with studs pictured above 4x 15mm). Different guides recommend different orders for removing these so do whatever you find easiest, there are some wiring loom clips on the covers which need popping off. The covers go over the mount but I found I needed to loosen the covers then remove the mount before I could wiggle the covers away completely. It is tight but I did it without unplugging or removing anything else. At this point, Haynes suggests removing the wipers and scuttle to get the top cambelt cover off, this seems to be totally unnecessary! You will also need to remove the crankshaft position sensor and the belt guide opposite the sensor - no pictures but they are right by the crank pulley. With the covers and engine mount mount removed you should end up with something like this. Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt and remove the flywheel locking pin. Turn the engine by hand until the camshaft, crankshaft and fuel pump line up with their timing holes. Be aware the cam and crank can line up without the fuel pump...I spent several minutes wondering what I'd done wrong there! Just need to turn it a few more rotations until they all line up. Then place your timing pins or drill bits to lock the pulleys in place. Once the pulleys are locked and you're happy to continue with the job, it's a good time to drain the coolant. There is a coolant drain plug at the bottom passenger side of the radiator, need a large flat screwdriver to undo it. This is the point of no return... Loosen the cambelt tensioner (13mm bolt). Remove the old belt. Remove the cambelt idler (15mm nut). Fully remove the tensioner. Remove the old waterpump (7x 8mm bolts), break the seal and expect some coolant to emerge from behind there. Clean the cavity and sealing area. Fit the new waterpump and gasket making sure to evenly tighten the bolts(10Nm). You may chose to use some gasket sealer as belt and braces. Fit the new cambelt idler (35Nm). Loosely fit the new sprung tensioner taking care not to pull the pin. Fit the new belt, making sure it's tight on the right hand side and that all the slack is around the tensioner. Remember only the waterpump can move at this point so if there's too much slack on one of the other pulleys, lift the belt and push it over a tooth. When you're happy with it, use a 6mm allan key to turn the tensioner until the belt is under the correct tension on the waterpump side. Then fully tighten the tensioner bolt (25Nm). Now remove all the locking pins and turn the engine over by hand 10 revolutions...this quickly gets tiring but it's worth doing lol! After 10 revolutions the pulleys should all line up with the timing marks again, double check by fitting the pins. Then make sure to remove the pins before going any further. At this point I tightened the radiator drain screw and refilled the cooling system to make sure there were no leaks from the waterpump. Now refit the crank sensor, the crank guide (10Nm), the engine mounting mount (55Nm) and the cambelt covers (5Nm...even I didn't bother torqueing those lol). The covers fit over the mount so that needs to be in place before the final cover tightening, but I found it easiest to loosely fit the covers first. Refit the top engine mount (80Nm nuts, 90Nm bolts). Refit the coolant reservoir pipe. Refit the brake fluid reservoir to the scuttle. Lower the trolley jack and remove from under the engine. Fit the flywheel locking tool as before. Refit the crankshaft pulley with a new bolt. Tighten to 30Nm + 180 degrees. Top tip, if you don't have an angle gauge, make a mark on the bolt head (this one already has one) and a mark/scratch on the pulley directly opposite. Then tighten the bolt until the marks meet. This is a bit awkward on the floor, especially as its easy to slip off the bolt and mash your hand on many things. Now remove the flywheel locking tool. Now fit the new auxiliary belt and reset the sprung tensioner. Now for the worst part...starting the engine for the first time after the belt change! Hopefully it should just fire up immediately. If not, check the flywheel pin is out and all plugs are properly plugged in etc. If it starts and then locks do not try to restart it, there's a timing issue so you need to remove the covers and see what's happened. If it starts but whines like a supercharger you've over-tensioned it. Assuming it started fine and is running well, let it warm up with the coolant cap off to purge the system of air...ok, this impossible with a 1.6TDCi in cool temps lol. But check for leaks and any odd noises. I had to take mine for a run to get it warm enough as it just never gets there at idle otherwise. Make sure to take some coolant with you as it'll need topping up when the thermostat opens at around 83c. Now refit the wheel arch liner, undertray, engine cover and wheel. Write the date and mileage of the belt change in your service book. The Dayco kit also came with a sticker to fill in and place near the belt in the engine bay to let future owners know of the change if the service book gets lost. And finally, take it for a test drive!

Dropped swmbo to work last night and decided to go for a scenic drive across Dartmoor to make the most of one of my few nights off I now get to enjoy. 40mph stretch which is very twisty and the road rises up pretty rapidly after a very sharp bend. Some chuff in a Golf GTI overtakes "at speed", totally stuffs it up and hits a grass verge right in front of me, catches air and all wheels leave the road. Cue front end damage, fluid everywhere plus a couple of belts appear to fly off. I had a fun 2 hours on open moorland with darkness rapidly coming and a nasty low cloud / fog forming. Local colleagues attend (handy having my radio with me) and guy found to be known for mental health problems plus his VRN comes back as being of interest concerning 3 other speed related reports within 6 hours. Result- car recovered, driver reported for possible prosecution with regards to reckless driving and providing false details to obtain insurance. Me - laughing my butt off at his very weak excuses (plus accusing me of causing the crash - until I dug out my warrant card, radio and issue hi-vis jacket). Chump of the highest order.

UK Virus ALERT The English are feeling the pinch in relation to recent virus threat and have therefore raised their threat level from “Miffed” to “Peeved.” Soon, though, level may be raised yet again to “Irritated” or even “A Bit Cross.” The English have not been “A Bit Cross” since the blitz in 1940 when tea supplies nearly ran out. The virus has been re-categorized from “Tiresome” to “A ***** Nuisance.” The last time the British issued a “***** Nuisance” warning level was in 1588, when threatened by the Spanish Armada. The Scots have raised their threat level from “***** Off” to “Let's Get the *****.” They don't have any other levels. This is the reason they have been used on the front line of the British army for the last 300 years. The French government announced yesterday that it has raised its alert level from “Run” to “Hide.” The only two higher levels in France are “Collaborate” and “Surrender.” The rise was precipitated by a recent fire that destroyed France's white flag factory, effectively paralyzing the country's military capability. Italy has increased the alert level from “Shout Loudly and Excitedly” to “Elaborate Military Posturing.” Two more levels remain: “Ineffective Combat Operations” and “Change Sides.” The Germans have increased their alert state from “Disdainful Arrogance” to “Dress in Uniform and Sing Marching Songs.” They also have two higher levels: “Invade a Neighbour” and “Lose.” Belgians, on the other hand, are all on holiday as usual; the only threat they are worried about is NATO pulling out of Brussels. The Spanish are all excited to see their new submarines ready to deploy. These beautifully designed subs have glass bottoms so the new Spanish navy can get a really good look at the old Spanish navy. Australia, meanwhile, has raised its alert level from “No worries” to “She'll be alright, Mate.” Two more escalation levels remain: “Crikey! I think we'll need to cancel the barbie this weekend!” and “The barbie is cancelled.” So far, no situation has ever warranted use of the final escalation level. The Russians have said “Its not us”

It should be on left hand as we drive on the left. It's left hand traffic, not about where the steering wheel is.

ermmmm...perhaps the blasphemous folk need to be reminded, and recite this again The Fords Prayer Our Focus, the ST is heaven Hallowed be the Escort The Mustang comes Thy Edge is done on earth, so is the Fusion Gives us our Max's: B, C, and S's As we forgive those who Nissan and Peugeot and lead us not into VW but deliver us from Vauxhall For thine is the Transit The Ranger and Fiesta For Ever and Ever

People have so little respect for their own property and worse they have less for other peoples. I have had stand up rows and smacked massive dents in other peoples cars before. Whilst they were watching me. Had a guy open his car door into mine, whilst I was sat in it, he chipped the paint, I got out and confronted him and he was being a royal donkey about it. Said I should stop complaining and at least he didnt dent it, I asked if it was alright to dent other peoples cars and he replied it was. So I smacked the door open hard enough that I dented his and took his paint with me. He asked me what I was playing at, and I just replied "you said its perfectly alright to dent other peoples cars". His face was a picture, and as he started getting irate, his missus led him off, telling him "if you weren't being such a (c bomb) and werent so far up your own (backside) then he wouldnt have done it!" she turned to me and apologised that he had damaged my car, and said she would have done the same in my shoes. This was quite some time ago, and looking back I acknowledge its probably seen as criminal damage, but some people are just so self obsessed and care so little, that they need to get a taste of their own disrespect.

I reckon Ford have a master switch somewhere. Warranty expired - 'click', 80k on the clock - 'click', bit short of cash one month- 'kill switch'. Rotten swine ;)