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  1. 16 points
    Heres A Guide To Help The Removal/Fitting Of The Rear Diffuser On A MK7.5 Fiesta Zetec S To An ST http://static.autocl...IR#/biggrin.png These are the parts you will need/require.... £52.76 Upper Honeycomb Deflector- 1819019 (Ford Part Number) £63.26 Lower Primed Deflector- 1818433 (Ford Part Number) Both parts above can also be purchased at pumaspeed and european parts (higher cost) £29.99 Ripspeed Twin Tail Pipe- http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165537 2x 6mm Plastic Flanged Nut- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-6mm-NYLON-WASHER-FACED-FLANGED-FULL-NUTS-PLASTIC-FLANGE-MODEL-CIRCUIT-/190989084545?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item2c77d62781 Self Tappers 6mm Or Ford Pot Rivets (Part Number:1555829) - http://www.ebay.co.u...item4615ff6278 Process (Once Lower Diffuser Part Has Been Sprayed Colour Choice) Cost Me £50 To Have It Professionally Sprayed Candy Blue 1. Firstly getting the back of the car onto axle stands or ramps etc will help with and makes things easier with more room. 2. Then you will need to remove the pot rivets from the original diffuser, i found a 6mm drill bit worked perfect when used in the centre (be careful and take your time, so you dont push the rivet into the plastic as you drill as the plastics only soft) until the pot rivet head comes off and then the centre of the rivet can be pushed out of the hole. There's three on each side under the corner flaps. 3. Once the pot rivets are removed you can then slowly give the diffuser a pull from corner to corner and as it starts to come away, a flathead screwdriver helps to push the tab ledge in to remove from the slot. 4. You can then fit the two parts of the new ST diffuser together, they simply align together and then tabs fit into the slots and lock it in place. 5. Once the two diffuser parts are together you can align it to the rear of the car and start to push the tabs of the upper part into the bumper of the car, give it a gentle tap with your palm once aligned and check its all flush to the bumper. 6. You can then screw the self tappers into the holes of the new diffuser and should line up with some of the holes of the old diffuser or if you've got the original ford pot rivets (Part Number:1555829) then put them in and tighten up using a pot rivet gun. 7. Also while there the 6mm flanged plastic nuts can be fitted to the two tabs in the centre of the new ST diffuser using a 10mm spanner or 10mm socket. 8. Now the new diffuser is fitted and secure, give a final push to make sure its all pushed in and flush with the bumper. You can then proceed to cutting a couple of inches (the bend) from the original exhaust. I used an air grinder with a cutting disc and slowly went through it straight up. 9. Then you can put the twin tail pipe (chosen exhaust tail) onto the straight part of the remaining original exhaust, align it until your happy with it and then tighten it up with a 10mm deep socket or spanner. 10. Congratulations you've then got your new ST diffuser fitted and should look something like this... Total Cost= £196.01 Hope this helps and if anyone has any queries or questions dont hesitate to drop me a pm, always happy to help. And Thanks Again to E5GDM (He did it first) for the idea and information towards this cosmetic modification/upgrade
  2. 13 points
    Sync 1 / 1.1 to Sync 2 Retrofit Guide Disclamer:- This guide is intended as an advice document only. You attempt the actions in this guide at your own risk. I will not be held responsible if you brick any modules or break your car. This conversion involves rewiring your existing cars wiring and should only be attempted by a competent and experienced person. Right! Now that’s my ***** covered lets get started! I couldn’t have done this conversion if it weren’t for the information available out there, sadly not much of this is in English or applicable specifically to the focus however it gave me the understanding of what needed to be done to carry this out and I will be linking to some of this information throughout the guide. Parts – Sync 2 APIM Sync 2 ACM Sync 2 FCDIM Sync 2 Fascia Sync 2 Media Hub + loom GPSM module - DE8T-19H463-DC Media hub bezel - finis number - 5326708 Mini USB to Mini USB cable Nav maps Pins - mouser - 1924955-4 HSD Code E plug or Fakra Z ( if you have OEM reverse camera ) Forscan ( with extended license ) and FoCCCus software I started by completely stripping out the car, partly because I wanted to wet vac the seats and partly because of ease of access. You don’t have to remove the seats but I strongly recommend the center console, and all the fascia panels. The sync 2 fascia doesn’t fit straight away, some trimming is required around the bottom, start by cutting off the locating lugs and then trim little by little until it fits nicely against the a/c panel the panel is held down by the 2 center holes in the same way the original is. Once your happy the fascia fits nicely then remove the fascia and a/c panel to reveal the sync unit, this is held in place by 3 screws and can be disconnected and removed. The sync connector needs to be rerouted to the top of the dash, there is plenty of length there it just needs to pulled back to the main loom and then directed up to the top of the dash. At this point it’s a good idea to tape back and secure and cables that you will no longer need, in my case it was the blue, pink and black fakra connectors from the fcdim module. Now peel back the insulation on the sync connector and give yourself plenty of exposed cabling to do the swaps required, unlatch the 2 clips and slide off the connector cover. *top tip* label any wires that are going to be moved or removed in case you ever revert to sync 1 or get lost with where the wire came from. Once you have swapped the 2 MM-can wires the unit can then be plugged in and will power up for basic testing, note that once plugged in the unit takes a few minutes to power up, it also does this everytime it reboots, don't panic! The pin swaps are highlighted in the pdf After you’ve completed the pin swaps its time to add in the additional wiring for the media hub, reverse camera adaptor (if fitted) ms-can and fcdim connector. I ordered the pins for the sync connector from mouser and although they work they are a little tight and did need to be manipulated in. if I were to do the job again I would buy a sync connector cut from a loom and remove the pigtails to solder onto *top tip* For the ms-can input you can tap into anything that runs on the ms-can network, I found the wires in the blue connector for the a/c panel. They will be the only external connections that you need to make. The gpsm is to be installed under the rear view mirror cover, for me the plug was already there so make sure to check this beforehand. To install the media hub I used 2 good quality usb to usb mini leads connected with a usb coupler. The media hub is mounted in a bezel from a mk5 mondeo, the finis part number I have attached above. For the fascia panel the radio controls are connected by mm-can as opposed to lin like the original. You need to add one pin and cut and solder onto the existing pin in the plug for them to work. For the acm connector you need to move 2 wires across from the main loom and into the accessory loom this is to transmit the tmc data to the screen for the naviagation traffic. If you’ve got this far, well done! The hard work is over. Time to tidy up your cabling, and bolt everything into place. *top tip* install the apim and screen first before sliding the acm into place. Pop in your nav card ( f6 is the most recent ) and also worth updating the software to the latest version (3.10) Put the rest of the car back together and grab yourself a brew, next up is coding! Using forscan plug yourself into the car, *top tip* if you’ve previously used forscan on the car delete any previous profile and scan it as a new car. If you don’t it wont pick up the newly installed gpsm module. You will likely have a bunch of dtc codes, clear them and see what comes back. There will be 1 dtc that definitely wont clear and that is for the central locking led in the bcm. There will also be errors on the acm which currently cannot have its as built data modified, however this doesn’t seem to cause any problems. Programmming the APIM Here comes the fun part. The apim will need to be coded to the spec of your car. The easiest way to do this is using the ford as built data. The way to do this is find a facelift focus with the same options as yours. For example mine is a titanium x, and the facelift titanium x has the same features as mine. To do this hop onto ebay or autotrader and find a facelift focus with the same features as yours, make a note of the registration and go to the ford etis website ( www.etis.ford.com )enter the reg and make a note of the vin number. Then you need to go to the motorcraft service website ( www.motorcraftservice.com ) click free resources and then quick guides. Towards the bottom of the list is an option for Module Build Data ( as – built ) hit this and enter the vin number you got from etis. This gives you the module as built data that you will need to programme the apim. Download the file and save it to your computer. Open up forscan and click on the icon that looks like a computer chip. You will see an option that says apim ( as-built format ) run this and load the file from your download ( don’t forget to change the file type to .ab in the search bar ) click write all and follow the instructions on screen. Once done you will see sync reboot and if you have done everything correctly it should now be programmed to your cars features. At this point you still aren’t done, you will notice that the voice control still doesn’t work correctly. Now we need to change a few things in the bcm and ipc. Open up foCCCus and load up the central config for your car, save a backup before you change anything!!! The lines you need to change are – 123 – Audio Aux Input change the value to 01 (without) 125 – DAB Radio System change the value to 01 (without) 154 – Module USB change the value to 01 (without) 157 – Bluetooth Handsfree change the value to 01 (without) 172 – Front Display change the value to 09 (DM8 with nav) 214 – ICP change the value to 09 Write these changes to both the bcm and the ipc. This got everything working 95% percent for me. I had to make some further changes to enable optical display for the parking sensors and the active park assist. I did this by modifying the as built data of the apim further by using this guide. ( https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=1479139836 ) Im expecting some questions and I will help the best I can as im sure there are bits I have missed! Focus Sync Conversion table.pdf
  3. 12 points

    KPG: I'm back ! (New Build Thread)

    Hi folks. Been away for quite a while but with good reason. The titanium is gone: Really sad to see it go. But the ST2 is here [emoji16]: Some of you may know how long I've been crying about one of these so this is a really big deal for me lol I actually can't believe I finally have one. Delighted to say the least. It's mostly down to my wife that I was able to afford this car so I'm eternally greatful for what she's done for me. ST2 with style pack. 2 owners, 42k miles and 4x Michelin winter tyres included with sale: £10k This'll be a slow progress thread as usual but there will be small updates soon enough. [emoji41] Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
  4. 9 points

    Alexp's 2018 Fiesta ST

    As some of you may know, I've been waiting for the 2018 Fiesta ST for some time. I placed my order back at the end of April, and it finally arrived at the dealers yesterday. Here's some pics they took of it being unloaded, and then some pics I took after I went to look at it today and take it for a spin. It sounds and drives amazing, can't wait to pick it up Saturday! 😁
  5. 8 points

    Coronavirus-A Light Hearted Thread

    I think 13 million pounds is pretty impressive for one 99 year old Veteran to raise. A life lesson for us all I believe. I salute you Sir. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  6. 8 points

    Coronavirus-A Light Hearted Thread

    I think what he is doing is brave and selfless and I support him 100%. This guy is showing up all the thankless snowflakes that pollute the world and demonstrating the pure mettle generally lacking in society now. His generation moulded the world we live in now and protected the right to free speech we all enjoy, please don't belittle his noble efforts. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  7. 8 points

    Things I Don't Like

    I've just text mate at work who is a bee keeper and he said there definitely wasps. And his advise was wd40!!!! Wtf! Yep, wd40 in hand and sprayed nest and wasps, then ran. Lol Within 5 mins they had either died or flown off. Wd40,100 uses plus 1 .wasp killer. And the shed door hinges don't squeak either now.(that's where they were nesting)
  8. 8 points
  9. 8 points

    Things I Don't Like

    Being on the M5 between Bristol and Taunton, overtaking in lane three and having some total bellpiece flying up behind me in a vauxhall Insignia then getting arsey because I didn't instantly move out of his way. The fact that I was at the national limit and the other two lanes were full therefore having no place to pull in to let this complete tool go past plus his aggressive style of driving really peeved me. I also had my wife in the car and she gets twitchy at any speeds over the limits so I was doubly not impressed. Unfortunately I haven't got around to refitting my dashcam yet so no evidentiary video or details. As soon as I had even the slightest space to pull over, this div decided to undertake me in lane two, fly in front of me and proceed to weave and brake test me. The universal cupped hand signal was applied out of his window and much waving of hands was seen. He then shot into lane one and left at the next junction. If he was intending on going off at this junction in the first place why act like such a moron? If I myself were planning on leaving at this exit then I would have already been in lane one well before he decided to climb in my boot. Big satisfaction of all this was that I just happen to have the contact number for direct access to the Avon & Somerset control room on my phone (I do occasional official visits and support duties with them) and after passing his VRN to them and details of the event / offences I have received a courtesy call from their duty Inspector to inform me that they have found the driver and as he was reported by a fellow Officer (therefore the intelligence is considered as accurate and actionable) he has been issued with a NIP for dangerous driving and road rage, he couldn't be tagged for speeding as I have no calibrated ability to access his speed in comparison to mine (although I know 100% that he was exceeding the national limit by some considerable amount to appear from nowhere behind me so suddenly). I had a celebratory tab and a can of Red Bull at Taunton Deane services and the wife had a strong coffee to calm her nerves (she doesn't do this sort of thing daily unlike me). Karma is a female dog
  10. 8 points

    DIY GoPro Headrest Mount

    Always being on the look out for a different view point and stable place to mount the GoPro and thinking ahead to possible track days where cameras must be secure I've been looking at buying a mount to fit between the headrests but as they cost anything from £22 to £80 decided that I could make one myself for a fraction of the cost. First I bought a handlebar mount for the GoPro, not a genuine one but one off eBay for £3 delivered and I have to say it's very good quality. Here's a link if you want one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bike-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Seatpost-Pole-Mount-For-Camera-Gopro-HD-Hero-1-2-3-4-/131297419418?hash=item1e91efa09a:g:en0AAOSwfcVUF~9d also bought some U-bolts (I bought 4 as I'm making two of these) wing nuts and carbon style vinyl wrap First I measured the gap between the two inner headrest posts as this would be the point I would attach the mount. I cut a piece of spare 22mm copper pipe I had lying around to slightly longer than this, filed and smoothed the edges. Then placed it across the seats so I could mark the position to drill holes for the U-bolts to fit. I used a sharpie to mark where I needed to drill the holes. Using a suitable sized high speed metal drill drill 4 holes and smooth the cut edges so no sharps remain. The fit the 2 U-bolts and wing nuts. Wing nuts make it easier and quicker to fit than normal nuts which would require a spanner. Do a test fitting to make sure everything matches up correctly Make sure the nuts are to the rear as this not only looks better from the front of the car but is also safer for front seat passengers. Next measure and cover the pipe with the carbon wrap. Make sure there are no air bubbles if there are pierce them with a pin. Fold the ends into the pipe for a neat finish, I also fitted plastic bungs but this is not essential. Also clear the pre-drilled holes. Then refit the U-bolts fix GoPro stickers and the handlebar mount and you're all set to enjoy And finally as it looks in the car. This was a very easy mod no real skills required as long as you can handle a drill and saw you should be good to go. Any questions just ask.
  11. 8 points
    Removing Fiesta Mk7.5 Door Card Keeping this guide Very simple :) What you need? 1x T20 Torx Bit 1x 10mm Socket Set of Trim removal tools Just follow the pictures :) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. And your Done :D putting back together just go from back to front :D
  12. 8 points

    2015 Ford Focus ST Review

    By James Mosley This year has seen Ford’s popular Focus ST range receive a mid life facelift, as well as the addition of a new diesel model to the range, and no, thankfully Ford decided not to call it the Focus STD. Interestingly the diesel model is the first diesel ever to grace the Focus ST range, and only the second diesel ST ever - the last being the Mondeo ST Tdci from the mid 2000’s. It appears Ford has finally decided it’s time to have a rival to the likes of the VW Golf GTD. The new Focus ST Diesel serves up a respectable 182bhp and 0 - 62 mph in 8.1 seconds - both considerably down on the petrol version, although of course it’s substantially more frugal as you would expect. That being said, the diesel version could be the compromise that the high miler petrolhead has been looking for, and could also offer a great opportunity for company car drivers who want something a little more fun than the usual dull diesel saloons. Personally I consider myself a true petrolhead and if I had to put my money where my mouth is then of course I’d take the full fat petrol version without hesitation, so perhaps it’s a good thing that it was the petrol version I was able to test on a recent trip to this year’s Ford Fair event at Silverstone, courtesy of our good friends at Evans Halshaw Milton Keynes. So what’s changed from the pre-facelift version? Well, most obvious is of course is the styling change, which puts the ST back in line with the rest of the Focus range, albeit a little more aggressive looking. The top spec ST3 model I’m testing is in a new colour called “Stealth Grey”, which is definitely a colour that has proved to be controversial. It’s certainly attracted plenty of attention - the sort that I’m sure would only be received when driving around with this colour or perhaps the more well known “Tangerine Scream” option. Interesting the “Stealth Grey” option is a free colour option and also a choice that will be carried onto the 2016 Focus RS. Everyone I’ve shown the car to has had a different opinion on the colour. It seems to be a bit of a love it or hate it thing, with many people telling me how fantastic it looks and equally as many proclaiming that it looks like primer. Personally, I wasn’t sure at first although I found that I learned to love it over the few days that I had it. One thing I would say though, is that in my opinion it could have done with gloss black wheels. The standard grey ST3 wheels looked a little lost with the whole “grey on grey” thing going on, and I felt like it needed a contrast - something that can easily be rectified of course with a quick refurb or indeed the optional black 19 inch wheels, albeit no doubt with a less compliant ride and vastly more expensive replacement tyres. Overall, I much prefer the look of the facelifted version of the car. The pre-facelift version never felt quite right to me, even a little awkward on the eyes. This time however, I think they’ve hit the nail on the head with a car that provides just the right mix of class and aggression for this sector. The interior has not been without its fair share of upgrades too. The dash layout is a huge improvement with way less buttons and a much more generous 8 inch touchscreen this time making the car feel much more modern. The ST’s trademark gauges for boost pressure, oil temperature and oil pressure are still present and something I really like to be honest. It just helps to differentiate the cabin (particularly the dashboard) from the normal Focus, especially as I was just a little disappointed to discover the carbon fibre dash inserts from the MK2 Facelift ST and RS haven’t made an appearance this time. Like the paint, the Recaro seats seemed to divide opinion amongst those who sat in the car, thanks to their particularly heavy bolstering. The bolstering is definitely considerably heavier and indeed harder than the Recaros on the MK2 Facelift (I remember this well as I used to own one), although personally I found them just right and they kept me held securely in place through any fast turn I could throw at the car. Perhaps a little adjustment wouldn’t go amiss then to cater for all tastes. As is usually the case with a mid-life facelift, Ford has left the 2.0 Ecoboost engine well alone, content with the 247bhp and 267 Ib ft of torque on offer, delivered through a crisp 6 speed manual box to the front wheels. As a previous MK2 owner, the engine was always naturally an area I was going to be sceptical about when it came to this car. After all, the MK2 had a glorious 2.5 litre Volvo derived 5 pot that had character in spades, and although the new engine actually produces more power and torque as standard, it has lost a cylinder and half a litre of cubic capacity versus the old lump - all in the name of efficiency. Ford of course was well aware of this and has clearly put plenty of effort into breathing a bit of character into the engine, keen to avoid a disappointing and limp sounding 4 cylinder that would have upset the enthusiasts. Well, I’m pleased to report that they’ve (pretty much) succeeded in this department. Whilst it’s obvious you’re never going to make a 4 cylinder sound exactly like a 5 cylinder (gone are the characterful pops and bangs), Ford have managed to create a sound that under medium to hard acceleration cleverly creates a similar off-beat warble to the old much loved 5 pot. Apparently there is some clever trickery used, but to be honest you’d be hard pushed to tell when driving it and I’m quite impressed at how close to the old sound they’ve managed to get it. It still sounds great and that’s the main thing. Plus of course you get the bonus of vastly improved emissions and therefore tax, plus supposedly better fuel economy but more on that later. Whilst Ford hasn’t changed the powertrain in the Facelift, they haven’t left the dynamics of the car completely alone. There’s new spring and bushes, re-tuned dampers, plus the electric power steering and torque vectoring system have been fettled with too in order to reduce understeer. Not only this, but there’s a new Enhanced Transitional Stability system that can brake individual wheels and the body has been stiffened along with the rest of the Focus range. They may be subtle refinements but added together Ford engineers seem to have managed to sprinkle some of that “Fiesta ST magic” that some said was missing from the pre-facelift car. Yes, the car is still a very powerful front wheel drive hatchback that doesn’t have a mechanical differential or the clever revo-knuckle system that Ford used in the last RS, but the facelifted Focus ST does manage to deliver fun in spades. On the road, the engine feels every bit as powerful and eager as the figures suggest, with peak torque available from 2000 rpm right through to 4,500 rpm. Simply put, the power is always there on demand, when you need it. Overtaking is a breeze too, with the ample supply of torque ensuring you rarely need to change down for a simple maneuver. The chassis and engine combination is definitely a sweet one with a car that always feels as if it wants to have fun and is at home on British B roads. The steering is now very sharp and responsive and there is barely any body roll at all, which combined with that torquey engine and slick shifting manual gearbox means that the ST is a fantastic companion when given some stick through a twisty section of road. One criticism of the old 5 pot model was that you were always aware of that weighty lump under the bonnet when cornering, and that simply isn’t an issue here. Of course, as you would expect there is some torque steer, especially when the road surface is not that great. It can have the tendency to follow dips in the road under hard acceleration, though this is easily corrected through the ST’s communicative steering. Naturally, traction can easily be broken in the wet, though this to be expected. In the dry however the grip is excellent, with the torque vectoring system and grippy Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres doing a fine job. The suspension and ride comfort is on the firm side as you might expect from a car such as this, although I wouldn’t describe it as uncomfortable at all, and I’m sure the ride was definitely helped by the fact that my test car was running on the standard 18 inch wheels and not the optional 19’s. Indeed, some earlier reviews have suggested quite a busy/harsh ride on the 19’s and I can’t say I noticed that with this car. Perhaps the 18 inch wheels hit the sweet spot when it comes to ride comfort and dynamic ability then. When it came to fuel economy, I was very interested to see how the 2.0 litre Ecoboost performed, particularly now that it comes with stop-start technology as standard, and the old 5 pot motor from the MK2 wasn’t exactly known for its fuel efficiency. Fortunately, in taking the car to the Ford Fair event at Silverstone, I had plenty of chance to test the ST on a variety of roads including a nice long motorway drive. If I’m being completely honest, I was a little disappointed with the fuel economy I got from the ST. I achieved around 25-26 mpg around town but only an indicated 29.2 mpg on a long motorway run. Perhaps I expected a little too much from a car that clearly isn’t fuel economy focused and perhaps it’s also a little unfair given the ‘spirited’ nature of certain sections of my drive, but given the official 41.5 mpg rating, I was hoping for at least mid 30’s. It’s a slight improvement over the old model but not a great deal, plus this car had done less than 1500 miles so it will probably loosen up a bit over time. Clearly though, most people are buying an ST for fun rather than fuel economy, but if you want a bit of both then there’s always the diesel option. The ST3 specification of my test car means that the car was fairly well equipped as standard, with the Recaros gaining full leather plus the ability to heat your rear in the winter. The seats are also now electrically adjustable unlike the old MK2 although sadly there is no memory function. Keyless entry and start plus dual digital climate control are all part of the package too. The rather nice illuminated ST branded scuff plates and ambient lighting really look the part at night, and there is bi-xenon/led lights all round that not only look great but provide excellent visibility too. The cruise control is a welcome addition and something that was sorely lacking from the MK2 for long journeys. This particular car also had a few options added above the £26,295 price for a standard ST3. It had the rear privacy glass (£200), door edge protectors (£85), heated steering wheel (£95), SYNC 2 premium nav with 10 Sony speakers DAB and sub woofer (£400) and rear view camera (£165) taking the total to £27,240 - still excellent value in my opinion considering the car and all the kit you get. The car is a bit of bargain to be honest, especially if you could live without the gadgets. Indeed, the range actually kicks off from £22,195, significantly undercutting some rivals. The SYNC 2 nav and sound system for £400 would be an essential upgrade in my mind and actually seems quite reasonable considering all the extra kit you get with that. The navigation itself was excellent with clear directions and lane guidance, although it was missing a junction from the M40 which was a little odd for a brand new car but never mind. If I had one criticism with it though, the touch screen interface did seem a little laggy and fiddly in places, but it does the job. I also think the door protectors deserve a special mention as I think they’re excellent value at £85 and everyone I showed was wowed at how they worked - pretty impressive for something as simple as a door protector. They’re on a simple mechanism that means they hide away when the door is shut (which is great as door protectors are usually ugly) and pop out when you open the door. It’s a very neat solution, although of course it doesn’t protect you from other people opening their doors against you, but try finding a non-hideous solution for that. One criticism of this system though - the driver’s door protector actually arrived broken. It looked like simple replacement for the actual protector was all that was needed as the mechanism itself was fine, however it’s not the first time I have heard of problems with this feature. It seems like it can be quite problematic which is a real shame as it’s a great idea. https://youtu.be/4R5gQKhmGXw As well as performing the function of a fun and involving drivers car, a hot hatch is of course still meant to function well as the practical hatchback on which it is based. I’m pleased to report that the ST still works very well as a family hatch. My daughter’s child seat was easy to attach with the standard fit Isofix and she seemed happy enough. There’s plenty of headroom in the back for adults with adequate, though not great legroom, thanks to the bulky Recaro front seats. Again, the boot is fairly average with a reasonable amount of space, although it is quite shallow. Having said that, a space saver spare wheel is provided under the boot floor and on this model, the optional subwoofer sits on top of that, so the boot may be deeper without this. Driving the Focus ST around sedately it’s quite easy to forget you have all that performance on tap - it feels just like a normal Focus. It’s fairly quiet and there’s only a faint burble from the exhaust to remind you of the potential under your right foot. So it’s safe to say that the Focus ST is quite happy to play the part of your daily driver or family hatchback, and it will surely be easier to live with day in day out than its new big brother, the Focus RS will be. Verdict: An incredibly well set up and balanced chassis paired with a sweet, torquey, turbocharged engine and a slick 6 speed manual box make the Focus ST a great accompaniment for twisty British B-roads. Not only this but it’s a bit of a bargain too! The Focus ST has always been a bit of a halfway house between a standard Focus and its more hardcore sibling the Focus RS, and this ST feels like it will be no exception to this. Its an easy car to live with that has plenty of performance on tap whenever the roads permit, and is sure to leave you with a big smile on your face after each and every drive. The Focus ST range is available from just £104 per month at Evans Halshaw dealerships nationwide (October 2015). Follow Evans Halshaw on Twitter: @evanshalshawuk Specification: Engine: 1,997cc four cylinder turbocharged “Ecoboost” engine, 6 speed manual gearbox, front wheel drive Price: From £22,495 (£27,240 as tested) Power: 247bhp @ 5,500 rpm Torque: 267 Ib ft @ 2000-4,500rpm 0-62mph: 6.5 seconds Top Speed: 154 mph Fuel Economy: 41.5 mpg (EU combined cycle) CO2: 159g/km VED band: G (£180)
  13. 8 points
    !GUIDE! – How to create playlists on removable flash drive – FordSync As we know, FordSync can be a pain in the beeswax – when it comes to playlists. I decided no longer to use my iPod touch in the Fiesta, and wanted to opt for a tiny flash drive. I purchased a Kingston 32GB DataTraveler microDuo OTG USB flash Drive, pick it up from Amazon for less than £10 I did follow some others guide, recommending to use MediaMonkey to create the playlists. Which turned out to be more hassle than what it’s worth. Finally I found something so simple in creating playlists on a USB drive, and I can confirm that this works in my MK7.5 Fiesta, Titanium (with Sony DAB). If you have already got a flash drive to hand, then you’ll first need to download the 2 programs: MP3Tag & Playlist creator https://www.dropbox....9setup.exe?dl=0 (MP3Tag) https://www.dropbox...._Setup.exe?dl=0 (Playlist Creator) If you’re like me and like to download Podcasts, you’ll learn that these usually download in 1 single file. I then split these files into 5 minute segments, using a program called MP3Splitter (this step won’t be included in the guide, as it may not have any relevance to you). Once I have split the Podcast down into 5 minute segments, I then have to use MP3Tag to rename the file name. You’ll need to open MP3Tag, then open the folder containing the music files you wish to create a playlist for, highlight all files, then drag and drop into MP3Tag As you can see, the file name will need editing, so rather than it being: I Like It Like This-01.mp3 I Like It Like This-02.mp3 I Like It Like This-03.mp3 I Like It Like This-04.mp3 …and so on! I’m going to rename the filename like this: 01.mp3 02.mp3 03.mp3 04.mp3 …and so on! Next step, plug your USB flash drive into your computer. Then find that folder you've just edited in MP3Tag, and drag and drop onto the USB flash drive: Next open Playlist Creator, then drag the folder you've just added to the USB flash drive, over to the Playlist Creator program Next make sure that they show in numeric order in the Playlist Creator program. If they do not show in numeric order, then click on the filename tab, and the files will sort numerically Next click on the folder icon (1), select the folder that you dragged from the USB flash drive to Playlist Creator (2), then click on OK (3) Check that the folder has been selected correctly (1), Type in the name of the playlist (2), select .m3u (3), then finally click on Create Playlist (4). Once playlist has been created, click on OK If successful, go back to the USB flash drive folder, open the folder you’ve just created the playlist for, and you should see the M3U file in the directory. When you have completed creating the playlists, right click on the USB flash drive, and click eject. You can test to see if the playlist has been created correctly, by plugging the flash drive into the USB slot in your vehicle. When the FordSync screen shows, select "playlists" and your playlists on your USB flash drive will show, and hopefully play without any issues. Once again I can confirm the following steps above do work, as I've spent most of the day trialling/testing. I hope that you've found this guide of use.
  14. 7 points

    HOW TO: SYNC2 --> SYNC3 upgrade

    Hi Together, so i did this upgrade in Nov 2017. There were already few vids on youtube available regarding this upgrade and also Ford has in the meantime released official guide for Forcus MK3 RS SYNC3 upgrade. The videos are great but as they are for US version there is a small difference and also the Ford's guide has tons of unnecessary steps and parts you have to buy. So i have decided like to put everything together and write for you the guide with my experience and tips what to do and how PS1: This guide can be applied to each Ford car with SYNC2 (not just Focus). Of courste the panel removal will be in each car different but the needed parts are always the same. PS2: If you have Focus MK3 preFL, upgraade radio/SYNC1 to SYNC2/3 is also possible and will fully work. You only have to have better knowledge with wires harness and pins as there will be a need to add additional pins into main connector. PARTS NEEDED: 1. SYNC3 (apim + screen) 2. GPS Antena (the one from SYNC2 is not compatible as it is a GPSM module) 3. Media HUB in armrest (optional, will explain below) 4. Power connector reduction (in case you will buy new HUB) 5. ELM327 diagnostic device (Forscan compatible) WHERE TO OBTAIN NEEDED PARTS + ADDITIONAL INFO 1. SYNC3 (apim + screen) Well here you have really plenty of options, depends on your budged. The factory navigation is good but if you want a cheaper option you can go for the nonNAV version and use the navigation apps from ANDROID or APPLE. a.) more expansive option and the best one: is to find a used EU navigation version from ebay, junkyard etc. Even better if you can somehow also obtain the VIN no. of the donor so you can later use it for the map updates. Price are approx. 500-600 Pounds My SYNC 3 is a EU nav version and has this part number: HJ5T-14G370-GNG b.) you can buy also a new one from factory, i have found this guy in Facebook Focus MK3 Owners Club group and he sells the sat nav version for 500 Pounds which is pretty good price: https://www.facebook.com/InCarNavi/ c.) If you have bigger budget you can already buy a whole ALL-IN-ONE upgrade kit, where you will have all needed parts and at least you do not have to bother with buying stuff separately. I know that you can buy those kits from US but they are overpriced also some Russian sites are selling the SYNC 3 kits but i do not know the prices. And i personally know one Polish guy who also sells those kits for Ford vehicles the price from him is i think about 640 Pounds. So if maybe someone will be interested you can PM me and i will forward you the contact info. d.) cheapiest option: to buy one from US and you will later install the EU update there to make it EU version. If you will buy a navigation version it will not work here in EU (US nav version has 32GB internal storage, EU nav version has 64GB storage) but there is a possibility to install there the cropped EU navigation without some unnecessary voices so it will fit the 32GB storage. In US they have a site where the scrape yards are selling car pars and you can find a SYNC 3 just for 100-200 Dollars. Or you can just search ebay. Very hard is just to find it as sellers are describing items like they want. The site is: http://car-part.com/ and the best way is to look for Ford models 2017+ and as a part choose: Radio/CD. From the descriptions it is hard to assume that they are selling SYNC 3 but if you will find something that might look like a SYNC3 8" touch screen just contact them. Just make sure they are selling APIM+screen not just the screen E.g.: 2. GPS Antena You need a new GPS antena for both, nonNAV and NAV version (emergency calls). You do not need the original Ford antenna for SYNC 3, just any cheap that has the blue connector. e.g.: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-RG174-GPS-Glonass-External-Navigation-antenna-3M-Fakra-C-connector/32808397482.html? or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006AKVX2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 3. Media HUB in armrest The Finish no. for the proper Focus media hub is: 2026703 (price about 50 Pounds) New media hub is required only if you will use iPhone or Apple Car Play. On the old hub if you will use Android Auto you will only get an error message each time you start you car but it will work. But if you want do do it the proper way just buy the new HUB anyway This proper HUB has one USB nest and it loops to the front so you have also working the USB slot under climate control. You can buy it at your dealer, or any web store that sells Ford parts or just search e-bay. For my upgrade i did not use the proper Focus USB HUB. I have the one with the 2 USB slots that does not supports the one in the front, badly i did not have better info while buying needed parts, but what ever. This is the pic. of mine media HUB: 4. Power connector reduction (in case you will buy new HUB) The Finish no.: 2209060 (unfortunately the price now is about 209 Pounds) Again, you can buy it at your dealer, or any web store that sells Ford parts or just search e-bay. Luckily for you this original Ford part is not mentioned in any other guide. BENEFIT OF BUYING THIS PART: it comes with a SYNC3 LICENSE. What it means is, that when you will bring it to your dealer, he is able to add the info of SYNC 3 upgrade to your car on Ford ETIS site and you will have the SYNC 3 in your car like officially. But i guess like 99% dealers have no idea that such a thing exists, lol. OR Buying just cheaper aftermarket reduction from US company: https://www.4dtech.com/sync-3-retrofit-usb-hub-wiring-adapter-gen-2b/ OR If you know ho to cut wires, you can use this Ford's pigtail (info from 2GFusions.net) CU2Z-14S411-AA (WPT-1239) - installation of this harness will be described below. 5. ELM327 OBD diagnostic device This one you will need to configure the the SYNC 3 for your car. As an example i will say this: You have a rear parking sensors and you can see them working on SYNC 2 screen. If you will upgrade to SYNC 3, you will have no visual aid on the screen as the SYNC 3 does not know that you have the rear parking sensors so you must configure it, the same goes to parking camera etc. Just buy one from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.XELM327+Forscan.TRS0&_nkw=ELM327+Forscan&_sacat=0 INSTALLATION PROCESS: Saving data from SYNC 2 using Forscan and ELM327 cable: Well before the removal process you have to save the as build data configuration from SYNC2 (APIM Module) in order to load them again into your SYNC3. Firstly check this video that show were to download and how to set up the Forscan program: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deJiXehdN6Q For some deeper explanation how the configuration works in FOrscan you can check the official forum: http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1932 Secondly the saving and loading function from the APIM module. I do not have the screenshots for you guys but you can check this youtube video. The guy shows it already on the SYNC3 installed but you have to save the data first from your SYNC2 actually. And then after the HW change, load it again into your newly installed SYNC3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gF1VLpr0Mvs&t=317s TOOLS NEEDED for removal: T25 Torx Flathead screwdriver Plastic removal tools are very helpful (you can get them cheap on Aliexpress/ebay) Installation time: approx 1h As a base guide (when you have all parts gathered) use this video, it is a must to watch as my steps and info below will be just an addition and tips to it. Also note that the removal process of the dash parts on this video looks very simple and almost each part can be easily removed. THE REALITY is different, it will be maybe 3x harder to remove everything in your car and you will constantly have a feeling that you gonna brake something, lol. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2V8PFLSHwD0 Installation TIPS: Video position: 0:50. Removal of the trim around the shifter. I had a serious problem to remove it exactly like on the video so i did it by removing it from the other side. Video position: 1:35. Removal of the plastic cover below the radio. Well this was the hardest part for me. I really could not pull it like on the video and i almost broke it. Luckily i had also few pictures of the Ford's official manual that saved me. So i really recommend here to use Ford's step with the screwdriver. Pic below: Video position: 3:45. Removal of the trim panel of the shifter. This step is almost like on the video but i want to just show you the difference with the stick for the manual transmission. Because i firstly tried to remove also the silver frame. Video position: 4:20. What to do with the climate panel. Well i did not want to bother later to connect everything together so i just disconnected the switch for the "start/stop,parking,heated steering wheel" and left the panel aside with other wires connected. Video position: 6:30. Removal of the dash bezel around the display. Well this part holds like it is glued but you just need to do a quick strong pull. It will be 10x harder then on the video, lol. And again i just left it hanging. Video position: 8:35. Removing the brackets from SYNC2. This part you can skip. Not needed for the EU specs. Video position: 12:00. Placing GPS antenna into the dash board. he i just want to give you a detail where exatcly it is placed as it is not seen very well in the video. Video position: 18:00. Removing the old USB hub. Do not do it like on the video. I used the video instruction then struggled with pulling it out causing a small damage to the plastic parts with the screwdriver. Also the wires in my Focus were lot shorter so the manipulation was very complicated even for a small hands. Instead i recommend you again to use official Ford's instruction. You will add a few minutes to it but you will have a nice space for manipulation. Installation of the pigtail for the new USB hub: - this is only in case you decided to connect the USB hub with the pigtail and not with the p&p adapters described above. Installation of WPT1239 Harness (Utilizing Pins 1 and 4): Pin 1 is going to Pin 1 on Existing Media Hub Harness - Yellow/Blue Wire Pin 4 is going to Pin 10 on Existing Media Hub Harness - White/Blue Wire Pins 2 and 3 are NOT used and should be taped off, Pin 4 is the one closest to connector release tab Power wires spliced into existing connector wires, soldered, and ready to be taped up: Using FORSCAN and ELM327/UCDS to configure your freshly installed SYNC 3 for your car. Again at the end you have to load the configuration from SYNC2 into SYNC3. The process is mentioned already above. Well that's it. With that video and my tips you should be able to do it much faster then me i know that this guide will maybe need some adjustments but in case you will face any problems feel free to write here and ask anything.
  15. 7 points

    TDCiST’s.... TDCi ST...

    So... as promised New Car, New Thread! As with the last one, this isn't a project thread, as I'm not planning on doing too much to it! But I do have some small things planned for the car, so will use this to keep everyone updated! The things include: K&N 57s kit (luckily I can use the one off the ZS!) Remap (More than likely now Pumaspeed 1R...) some colour coding, not sure what colour or what exactly yet! Maxton Or TripleRComposites front splitter Maxton Rear RS Style Diffuser Carbon Gel Badges all round De-Tango front and rear end (Chrome Bulbs already bought!) Hydraulic Bonnet Struts CEUK LED Reverse Light Upgrade CEUK LED Extreme Indicator Lamps Forum Sticker and a little surprise mod... that will be secret for now! That’s it for now, the car is staying with me for a while! So there’s plenty of time for all this to happen. So to add to the history, carrying on from before... First Ford I owned, was a 1.4CVH Fiesta Freestyle... First Car, did me well for 3 years! My Second was the Mk1.5 Focus Edge 1.8TDCi 115.. I owned her for 8 years in total! Had ST170 Cosmetics (Lower Grille with TDCi Badge on, Headlights, Foglights), colour coded front grille surround, Twin Reverse Light Conversion, De Badged, Mondeo ST Rear Badge. Dragon CRDII Tuning Box, see graphs above, gained about 10bhp and 40lbft! I knw not as good as a map, but we all make rookie mistakes when young lol! K&N Panel Filter. I had some ST170 alloys too, that i bought about a month before things went wrong! Loved this car, still do! I hope whoever bought it at the auction does her proud, and makes a nice little project from her! The next car, which was bought as a replacement when the 1.8 blew up on the side of the A1 was my Focus Mk2.5 1.6TDCi 110 Zetec S, She has a K&N 57s filter, colour coded front bonnet lip, carbon badges all round, custom Zetec S door sills, twin reverse light conversion, S badges all round, footwell lighting, among some other bits. I never got round to remapping this one, or adding cruise control! Sadly she’s become uneconomical to repair after the MOT, and with some other bits that needed doing, an electrical fault that’s impossible to find! It causes the headlights to flash on their own, the temp gauge to swing around like a kid in a playground, and numerous weird things with my dashcam and the traction control being almost super sensitive! Add everything together that needs doing, and it was time for it to go! So... the moment you’ve all been waiting for, onto the new one... My Car Number 4, which is my Ford Number 4, and... Focus number 3! Members of FOC, please meet... TDCiST’s Focus mk3.5 TDCi ST... Bout time I had a car that matched the username!!! I pick her up on Wednesday!
  16. 7 points

    Merry Christmas everyone...

    As per title, have a safe driving holiday season folks, and thanks for all your help in keeping the old girl running well... 😀
  17. 7 points
    Set it to 31/12/2013 23:59 then wait a minute until it goes to 01/01/2014 then you can set the date and correct time past that point. It's a strange quirk in the system. Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)
  18. 7 points
    The garage have called me. It was the starter motor. Apparently it was full of water..? They’re not sure how it happened but as it’s an ecoboost I’ve asked them to check the cooling system etc to avoid a major loss of engine, although coolant level looks correct. The warranty covered the repair. I’ve had to pay the 3rd party garage and I’ll be reimbursed. Good result. Great help on here as usual. Thanks all.
  19. 7 points

    Things I Don't Like

    Finally washed mine this afternoon...thought I'd take a Zain-esque picture of it.
  20. 7 points
    It has been some time since my last post, the road has been long.. Siberia is vast. Im so proud to conclude I've made it to Vladivostok. I wrote this sat on shore of the Pacific Ocean watching the sun set... Before I continue to write anything of substance, I first need to show appreciation to the true MVP of this entire journey, credit where credit is due, I say a "thank you" to my 2002 Ford Fiesta. It has taken me everywhere without even moaning, from the -25 temperatures of Murmansk (which lies well within the Arctic Circle) to the vast steppes of Kazakhstan... it has been personally escorted into the closed town of Baikonur by the Russian space agency Roscosmos... it has been searched thoroughly by border customs which suspected it for being a trafficking vehicle for human organs, it has crashed though Russian Federation military checkpoints, has crossed deserts and grasslands, has climbed the mountains and valleys of Asia.. has entered annexed Crimea (which is illegal and breaks UK, EU and international law), from the borders of China to the borders of Afghanistan, from Kosovo to the largest lake in the world: Baikal ... I am so so proud of my first car. This trip began in 2016, a road trip which has come to a fitting conclusion after nearly exactly 2 years. Russia has been a country I have wanted to visit for over a decade, and oh so casually a former colleague went to Moscow to visit her brother. I was so so envious, so jealous, and it was this event which was likely the catalyst that lead me to where I am today. It was mere months after her visit I had given work my notice and applied for a Russian visa, (in fact from memory she even helped with my early visa enquiries by asking her Dad questions for me) .. with visa approval and my theory that Russia 'wasn't that far' I decided to drive instead of fly. 35,000 miles later I have arrived in Vladivostok, a goal I set myself but in reality never expected to make it. They say its not about the destination but about the journey, and I can honestly say: whilst this is true, to reach the Pacific Ocean is an amazing feat. The people I have met along the way, the friends I have made for life, seeing poverty and having perspectives blown apart, I am very humbled to have had such an experience. From selfies with strangers, people waving and beeping welcoming me to their cities, traffic pulling me over and asking for selfies, the whole trip has been amazing and I will cherish memories for life. With 35,000 photos perhaps one day I will write a book, but for now I simply write these words... I say farewell to my car, for this has always been a 1 way journey for the Fiesta. Transport Aid Japan is a NPO located out of Japan specialising in providing Africa with cars donated, however they no longer operate since my initial departure and thus the fate of the Fiesta has been an unknown for sometime. After last minute plans I'm happy to say I've found a charitable solution, I've spent the day meeting with the guys from Drive2Vladivostok (an instagram account primarily focused on models and the modded car scene) they do a great amount of local community work:- especially for an orphanage here in the city with children aged 5-16. Drive2Vladivostok have been integral to helping me find a charitable solution, Im really grateful for their help. My car is to be sold and all the proceeds donated to the orphanage, I find comfort that hopefully the Fiesta will find a new life and also help those less fortunate than me along the way. The DVLA will be notified that this has been gifted. I sign off with a warm thank you to everyone I've met along the way for the happy memories you've given me.
  21. 7 points

    KPG: I'm back ! (New Build Thread)

    Not much of a mod folks but I gave the car a good clean and also tackled the tailpipe with some Autosol. God that thing was caked in sooty black stuff. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
  22. 7 points
    Most of us are driving around with errors on our car, and we don't even realise it. Mainly because the small niggles don't affect our day to day driving. Focus owners are lucky as they have the "Secret Dash Trick" but what if you don't own a Focus? and you don't have a trip computer? The easiest way for us on the forums to help you, is if you have an "OBD" Scanner - and you may be surprised that they are DIRT cheap! OBD is the cars "On Board Diagnostics" system. If there is an error with your car sensor, or another error that you are either well aware of (or perhaps not). then OBD might just save you £60 minimum diagnostics fee with a dealer, and perhaps a whole lot more in repairs... What is OBD? On Board Diagnostics has been in use for many years, as early as 1996 a lot of cars have it. From 2001 (Petrol) and 2004 (Diesel) the standard of OBDII came in, and all cars after this time will have an OBDII interface that you can use. Not only can OBD be used to diagnose issues, but it also allows you to monitor the likes of efficiency in your car. there are so many applications available that will read the data in different ways, if you want an app for 0-60 with BHP readouts - Torque Pro. If you want an app for your economy usage "Efficiency (Free)" can be your new best friend. Does my car have OBD? The requirement is that an OBDII connection MUST be accessible to the driver within 2 feet of the driver position. The usual location is about knee height and on the right or left side of your knee (depending on the LHD or RHD model you own). Its normally recessed, and running your hand along the dash you will feel it, it may perhaps be hidden under the steering column, behind a panel (look for a removable panel somewhere around the dashboard at knee height) or behind an ashtray. There also tends to be one on the bulkhead of the engine compartment. Mst likely under a cover, so check your fusebox, and you may see it. How do I use OBD? You can buy a universal adapter that will fit any car with an OBD socket. See below links to a couple of types (Bluetooth) and an example USB version. Smartphone Users: Look at your smartphones App Store for a program called "Torque" - this comes in a freeware version and a Paid for version. Torque allows you to scan for and clear down error codes, also clicking the error code can take you to a page where you can see in plain english - what the error means. It allows you to view live data readings and also map out your vehicles data (downloadable to PC). Two types of Bluetooth Adapters for sale on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2ec3082ebd http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a23cd1eb1 Laptop Users: You can buy a USB version that will plug into your laptop. they tend to come with drivers and applications that you can use to interact with your car's data. http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a2758bf50 Also, if you purchase a modified ELM 327 cable with a High and Medium speed can bus (click here for more information) then you can use software such as ForScan. This is an excellent piece of software that debugs more than just Ford's but allows you to automatically scan High and Medium speed for errors, view in clear text the errors seen, and reset them in turn. I have used this and find it an excellent piece of free software. Please see a guide on using FORSCAN here: http://www.fordowner...rs-on-your-car/ Any User: I Forgot when writing this that there is the entirely seperate "standalone" code reader. Its a handheld device that will read the code and control it through a handheld unit, prices for these differ, as little as £10.00 and up to a lot more. You can buy these for an average of £25 - £30 for a relatively branded unit. http://www.ebay.co.u...reader&_sacat=0 Which OBD version do I have? OBDII is the current standard but there have been other releases before. The older your car, the older the OBD support, so vehicles around 1996 will be OBD 1 and later vehicles 1.5 or 2. Always contact the seller if you are unsure if the device you are looking to purchase is compatible with your car. Generally speaking, if your car is older than 2004, you will probably have an OBDI device, and not an OBDII device. Again, refer to the seller to identify if this is the correct one for you. Why should I buy into this? Combination of an OBD adapter, and software to accompany it, most of the time will come in under £15. For that money, you have a way to track your cars readings, and check all the error codes. A simple problem with a sensor could cost you as little as £60 to diagnose with a dealer, and then whatever ludicrous labour fee's are applicable to resolve this issue. If you are handy with a spanner, or know someone who is, your first problem resolution will only cost you £15 plus whatever cost for the part, any problems after that you are self diagnosing for free. Providing the members of this forum with error codes means that we can provide you with more accurate details, and suggestions to resolve your problems. Limitations: Please note that when you buy an adapter of this nature, there ARE limitations. These adapters and software combinations cannot diagnose some systems, ABS and Airbag for example, but it can clear there error codes. Will It damage my car? Budget OBDII readers can only ever read data from the engine, and switch the Engine Management Light off - 99.9% of scanners on the market will not damage your car. Be wary of buying from abroad, as these may be cheaper still, but these are the 0.01% that may damage your car. What About Apple? Unfortunately, Apple is an issue for this sort of task. Apple use a hybrid "bluetooth" stack, which although claims to be bluetooth, its not "bluetooth" by the rest of the worlds description, its more "Apple's rewriting of bluetooth". Its generally seen that Bluetooth adapters wont work with Apple, and you may be better off getting a WiFi adapter and connect to this. For apple compatible devices though (Wi-Fi or bluetooth) There's this: https://itunes.apple...d591557194?mt=8 that I have heard of. but they do say if you have a bluetooth adapter, to contact support before hand. Alternatively, suggestion is that https://itunes.apple... a code reader.is a good tool to use, but again, ensure that they confirm it will work, or at least get refund reassurances. The most expensive I have seen yet (but best reported on) is REV: https://itunes.apple...avy investment. Summary So that's it - its a cheap, and harmless way to get information from your cars computer. Whether error diagnostics, or to see how much damage you are doing to the environment, or if you just want to brag to your friends about what your current BHP reads at. So, I hope this inspires you! Many who buy an adapter never look back, I have yet to come across a single individual who has regretted buying one. But remember, buy cheap but don't expect the world, but these cheap adapters could be more than enough to dig you out of a hole. If you want to buy something better, there are more than enough tools out there that you can look to upgrade to. Scanguage is an excellent device and there are a lot of other handheld units that could improve the result. If you have any questions, look around the forum, or feel free to send me a PM and I will be happy to help. If there is enough interest, I am sure all of us here will be happy to help you if you need to start a thread. Please remember, the above links are not recommendations, we are not gaining any revenue from advertising them, but I can say that I own two of them and they work fine for me ;)
  23. 7 points
    The only difference between the mk 6 brake lights and the facelift brake lights is that the facelift lights have 2 reverse lights and 2 fog lights as opposed to the mk 6 prefacelift having a fog light one side and a reverse light on the other (See wiring diagrams). **Please note that there is a difference between the 3 door and 5 door versions of the brake light so make sure that you order the correct light units for your car** Basically you need to buy the light units, the bulbs holders, new gasket seals (http://www.fordparts...17734_c_341.htm), a bit of 2core wire and detachable connecter plugs (http://www.autoelect...t/39/category/7 [9 terminals product code 051305])as the facelift lights are different from the original and try and get hold of a couple of push lock clips. (same clips as at the top of the original prefacelift lights). I got the lights/bulb holders/gaskets and push lock clips i needed from http://www.fordpartsuk.com/ (you may need to go to the parts request section of the site for the clips and bulb holders https://www.fordpart...artsrequest.htm) and managed to get the connector plugs from here ( [9 terminals product code 051305]). You need to run the 2 core wire between the two sets of lights wiring up the connector plugs with the additional wires, wired in with the corresponding reverse/fog light on each side and tuck the wire behind the plastic just behind the boot carpet, and the wire each plug up the same as i have done so in the wiring diagrams (I applogise for poor quality diagrams I've never attempted to make one before lol) (This is the type of connector plug that i used) Insert the push lock clips into the holes at the bottom (these are required as the facelift lights do not have the additional rod/wingnut in the boot to secure the lights into place) and I also applied a new seal around the hole for the wires at this point to prevent water ingression-someone had fitted a massive seal and siliconed it before which actually made it worse hence the reason for all the scratch marks as i had to removed the old silicone before fitting the new seals . Connect the plugs and push the lights into the clips and secure into place with the 2 screws. The 2 bits hilighted in the picture push into the 2 clips on the car also pictured is the bulb holders (wiring harness) required. I hope this helps anyone wanting to do this conversion as it is realy simple and great looking modification to make on the prefacelift model as the factory fitted lights aren't that nice. Just wanting to clear up any confusion as Ive looked all over for how to do it myself and theres nothing lol but it definately is possible and if you're not confident with wiring it shouldnt cost more than £20-30 to get an auto electrician to wire them in for you. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to contact me http://www.fordowner...48-dangersford/ Before: , . After: , Id recommend purchasing a set of Cree w5w 501 reverse lights (http://www.amazon.co...t/dp/B00B4QHG7O) and also a set of silver vision indicator bulbs to prevent you getting the fried egg effect :) (http://www.autobulbs...ator-bulbs.html) I appologise for the wiring diagram quality I've never tried to make one up before lol. Hopefully its of use to you.
  24. 6 points
  25. 6 points

    Coronavirus-A Light Hearted Thread

    Haven't you seen the latest? 😮
  26. 6 points

    Coronavirus-A Light Hearted Thread

    a bit dark comedy but still remember social distance for Jaysus Sake
  27. 6 points

    What you guys up to during lockdown?

    Could have been worse!!!
  28. 6 points
    I made a guide on how to install and activate cruise control and this guide is also helpful for some other activation's/deactivation's, have a look (https://bit.ly/2HOtm3s)
  29. 6 points
    All PDF links have been updated and tested as of 21/02/18. My Collated Guides Links Updated 21-02-18#1.pdf
  30. 6 points
    My car is running perfectly, has a steady idle of 800 RPM, temperature stable and gets there quickly, suspension controls car without drama, no squeaks, bumps or rattles, car drives smooth, fuel economy as expected, acceleration & braking all to expectations, everything electric works, windows, A/C, all lights etc... Now, what kind of impending doom is this? I'm sure my car is plotting in secret to throw me a surprise, I'm scared! 🤣
  31. 6 points

    Stripped thread

    Or a couple of these bolted through the radiator then some nuts each end? Over kill? Ignore the coolant loss. Sorry, I'm bored. Lol
  32. 6 points

    Ford etis

    There cracking down on users who are not confirmed independents or dealer. The likes of you lot. Only kidding, planned maintenance this weekend. Lol
  33. 6 points

    Old Airfix Dambuster model.

    Better than the weekly ones they advertise on TV. Latest one is the Bismarck. If you complete it then you'll pay out about £1200 for it. [emoji54] Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)
  34. 6 points
    Thanks for your response guys! The coolant looks nice and clean like when I last changed in two years ago. Judging from your experiences there is no point changing it lol
  35. 6 points

    Things I Don't Like

    I'm not sure what's happened in this thread over the last few days. Everything has gone wild 🤪🤣. **Makes a note to check if this is the 'I don't like' thread or the 'horny food' thread**
  36. 6 points
    Ok so it seems no-one else has attempted this. In the end I tackled it myself armed with Haynes and a very helpful mate. We followed the advice in the manual and removed the engine from below, first raising the car up on axle stands supported on a platform of concrete blocks. The front of the car needs to be around 2 feet high to get the engine out and back in comfortably from below. To avoid the car being at a very high angle, I reversed it onto service ramps at the rear. In retrospect, the car could have done with being more level than it was as it was quite tricky to manoeuvre the new engine back in place (forward/back space is quite tight and it's hard to stop the engine coming into contact with the intercooler if the engine and car are at different angles). Changing it out was generally reasonably straightforward, if a lengthy process (plenty of hoses and wires to disconnect everywhere!). I would give the following advice to anyone tackling it themselves: Make a note of where the wires and hoses are routed before you remove them. It's not obvious in a couple of instances which way cables are routed around other components when you reassemble In addition to the parts listed by Haynes, I would suggest getting some cable ties including the type that have a plastic serrated stud fixing that secure onto brackets on the engine and gearbox, as I cut a number of these off to release the engine loom Check you have everything before you start. Despite verbal and written instructions along with the description of what I was doing, Ford failed to supply me with what I requested and gave me a set of CV boot clamps instead of the inner retaining clip for the left hand driveshaft Most of the hoses are easy enough to disconnect, but a trick I never knew before and shown by my mate is to break the hold by twisting the hose until it's free before pulling off the mounting barbs (this was a revelation to me!) The EVAP line is all some horrid hard plastic that seems nigh on impossible to remove from the fittings, so I just transferred the whole assembly over from one engine to the other (there are several quick release fittings to mount it to the intake hoses etc which make this job easy enough) By far the most awkward thing that caused me much irritation was the fuel line "quick disconnect" hose elbow that fits onto the high pressure fuel pump. This has four tangs that spring inwards from the inside of the elbow, and they need to be pushed outwards to slide back over a ridge on the fuel pump mounting barb. You can buy special tools for not much money online to do this job (it's an 8mm/ 5/16 hose) but access is ridiculously tight (mine had a maximum clearance of 7mm between the pump and the fitting) and the chances are you won't be able to fit a tool in there. By the time I'd sanded the tool down enough to fit, it wouldn't go in far enough to release the fitting. I eventually found out from a garage that the way to deal with this is using several angled picks (they look like dentistry tools) to force the tabs open whilst an assistant firmly pulls the elbow back. Once you know how, it's not too bad, but as this is easily accessible throughout the job definitely figure out and confirm that you cant sort this step out first before anything else! Most of it can be tackled easily enough with one person, but definitely arrange for a helper for an afternoon to help with engine removal, gearbox separation/re-attachment and engine re-installation Good luck to anyone who gives this a go. As I say although it might seem daunting if you know your way around cars it's doable. I managed it in a long weekend (probably a total of ~20 hours work including figuring out what to do at a few points and having a mate help for a good portion of that time). The car is, thankfully, now running fine.
  37. 6 points
    Update ! Project Mountune theme. Yellow stitch leather trim now fabricated & fitted. Yunii Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  38. 6 points
    Take a few stones with you. When you need to go in your car, chuck them at something in opposite direction. When folk turn to look where the noise came from, open your door.
  39. 6 points


    Looks OK to me.
  40. 6 points


    Nothing wrong with a lift kit on a Ford! But seriously, springs do settle so they may drop a bit over a couple of days. Or the car may have been lowered previously and you've replaced the springs with standard ones... Or you've fitted the wrong ones altogether lol.
  41. 6 points

    Advice on going DIY maintenance

    Ok as promised, here is essentially what I call a 'basic' tool kit to suit most 'basic' jobs. There are several bits missing from my photos simply because I don't have everything out the car at the moment (I will list whats missing). I hope this gives an insight into what tools are used frequently. The toolbox is in for a clean out tonight and to make sure there is nothing missing. Some of the tools you will see here are beyond the needs of a basic diyer and as you might pick up there are a good few Mac/Snap on tools in there but there are also a good few Halfords professional too which are great value for money. I'm a big Milwaukee fan, their power tools haven't let me down yet. So missing from my pics are: Axle stands 36" Angled pry bar 3/8" 450mm breaker bar 1/2" 450mm breaker bar 3/8" impact sockets Brake bleeding bottle Test light Multimeter Spiral extractors Drill bit set Rethread tap and die set Fluted bolt extractors Brake cleaner pump sprayer Various sundries such as cable ties, general purpose grease, silicone grease, odd nuts and bolts So to pick out a few of the important tools in my box: Various screwdrivers and picks Various punches/chisels 1/4" torx bit sockets 1/4" Allen bit sockets 3/8" torx bit sockets 3/8" Allen bit sockets 3/8" Spline bit sockets 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" Female torx sockets 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" ratchet 1/4", 3/8" sockets - shallow and deep 1/4", 3/8" extension bars, universal joints and reducers/adaptors Combination spanner set 6-24mm Various pliers including extra long type and pump pliers Oil filter and fuel filter pliers Oil filter tool Stanley knife Magnetic pick up tool Brake caliper hooks Brake hose clamp Dead blow hammer Wire brush Anti freeze tester Copper grease/brush Flat file Thread file Feeler gauges Sump plug keys Allen key set Spark plugs tubes/sockets Mole grips Syringe Stretch belt tool Alloy wheel sockets Tread depth gauge The other kit you can see includes: Arcan trolley jack (From Costco) Milwaukee impact tools and battery ratchet 1/2" drive impact sockets - shallow and deep 1/2" 600mm breaker bar, 400mm ratchet and 600mm flex head ratchet MAP gas blowtorch Various pliers, long reach pliers, snips etc Plusgas spray Nitrile gloves So here is my 'basic' tool kit after a little clean out and all parts accounted for. This next set is an absolute life saver on rounded bolts/nuts. Anyone who has had to use this set will probably know all too well. Irwin make a set of these and there are cheaper alternatives on the market but I would seriously recommend these to anyone starting up a tool kit. Again, there are cheaper alternatives to this next set but I would also recommend a good set of pliers of various types.
  42. 6 points
    We've become a nation of lightweight namby pambies with no idea of preparedness or common sense. If people don't like something these days they whine and complain, give it a name ending in "...ist", and a bunch of lentil hugging peace hippies fall over themselves to tell them its alright. Unfortunately, these lightweights haven't figured out that the tactic doesn't work with Mother Nature - its a part of Darwinism, and bleating about unfairness won't help them this time. For my own part, the Nokia Allweather's on the Fusion are munching their way through the snow like its not there. Nevertheless, all my Search and Rescue gear is in the boot so if the worst happens I'm not reliant on outside help. The emergency services have better things to do than rescue ill prepared fools who can't take advice.
  43. 6 points

    Weird badging on focus?!

    yep, prises off easy enough, took mine off years ago but still have it in the garage oddly enough , now have an econettic central heating boiler. lol
  44. 6 points
    FORD Focus LED Illuminating Ignition Barrel Fitting Instructions.pdf
  45. 6 points
    Here is a printable PDF guide to fitting a Facelift Focus radio into a MK2. Please view, use and enjoy. Guide for Fitting a MK2.5 Focus Radio in a MK2 Focus.pdf
  46. 6 points

    RS spoiler finally fitted.

    After two long years of deliberation, I have finally fitted an RS spoiler to my car. I am more than happy with it, and I think it concludes my modifications on the appearance. Hope you guys like it 🤞
  47. 6 points

    Ecoboost low oil pressure

    Well the car is now back on the road. I took the sump off the engine, and found the oil pump looking like this: The inlet has a mesh which is completely clogged up with some form of black debris. This is some of what I removed from the pump inlet: It's not magnetic. My best guess is that the previous owner used either the wrong oil or didn't change the oil as frequently as they should - odd as I bought the car with a full history. My other theory is that it is some RTV silicone broken off from overspill from the sump gasket. Having fitted a new pump, the car now drives normally. Oil pressure builds straightaway - noticeably faster than it used to. The turbocharger is still delivering plenty of boost having monitored the inlet manifold pressure during a short drive. I did find about 50ml of oil in the intercooler pipe, so the seals may have degraded - I'll keep an eye on it. Having had this issue, I'm tempted to get a fibre-scope to check the condition of the oil pump inlet through the sump plug at future service intervals. Given its proximity to the sump plug, I'm toying with the idea of making a thin tube up to facilitate cleaning of the pump inlet without having to drop the sump. Learning points: 1) Based on the crud I found, it's possible that these engines are not very tolerant to being poorly maintained. Regular oil changes with manufacturers spec oil probably the way to go to prevent this! 2) If your engine oil pressure light doesn't go out immediately, and if the low oil pressure alarm occasionally comes on momentarily when starting the engine, then this is indicative of the oil pump becoming clogged up. Get it sorted before it gets worse The turbocharger water pipes cleaned up ok with a wire brush on a die grinder: I've now coated the pipes with some VHT enamel paint, so I'm expecting further corrosion will be prevented.
  48. 6 points
    I've recently crossed onto the Western Steppes, and successfully crossed into Kazakhstan. The border itself this time of year is rather unique, from experience a conventional border crossing via road consists of a country's exit border, a section of 'no man's land' then the new country's entry border. However the border between Russia and Western Kazakhstan lies across a section of the Reka Kigach river which at this time of year has frozen over. You have the Russian exit border, but then stretched across the bridges are a series of no less than 2 Kazakhstan check-points. At each checkpoint you're issued a stamp and the car is roughly checked for contraband, when you finally arrive at the Kazakhstan entry border across the river you present your stamps as proof you've legitimately traveled via road across the frozen river and haven't simply illegally driven across the frozen ice. One of my last Russian cities before crossing is unique. Named Elista, a fascinating region, and the only part in all of Europe which is Buddhist. The steppes here are a sight, flat grasslands for as far as the eye can see, remarkable. Herds of animals wander freely. I should cross the Ural river by car for the first time in the coming day and therefor arrive in the continent of Asia for the first time. Washing the car is futile!
  49. 6 points
    Guide to hard wiring a dash cam (Mobius ActionCam) Download PDF file including all photos with step by step instruction Made by Kurt (mixmasterlooney) special credits to James (Higgsy) for his great idea