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  1. 1 point
    Retrofitting Cruise Control on a Focus MK3. Using this guide is completely at your own risk!! Only follow this guide if you know for 100% what you are doing. Always disconnect the battery when working on the airbag system. Note that reading/changing the cars configuration in some cases can cause problems. In worst case it could be possible that the car will not start after something goes wrong. You should only make changes to the cars configuration if you really know what you are doing!! My Focus MK3 did originally not have Cruise Control. My car is a German spec Focus MK3 Champions Edition which was produced late 2013 . Cruise Control was not a standard feature on the German spec Champions Edition. Strange enough the first owner did order all possible options which were available on the Champions edition except Cruise Control. Because there were very little MK3 models available which met my requirements and demands I decided to buy the car anyway. Because I am used to have Cruise Control and I really miss it I decided to retrofit Cruise Control to my car. There are some aftermarket solutions to retrofit Cruise Control to a Focus MK3 but personally I do not want an extra stalk or aftermarket buttons. So I decided to retrofit the OEM Cruise Control system. Description of the Cruise Control System: The Cruise Control system of the Focus MK3 is combined with the ASL speed limiting system. The electronics of these systems is fully integrated into the existing CANbus modules of the car. There is no need to install additional electronics. Because of this it is relatively easy and pretty inexpensive to retrofit the OEM Cruise Control system. Actually it is only a matter of installing the Cruise Control switch and wiring on the steering wheel. After these parts are installed the system needs to activated into the cars software. Steering wheel differences: Compared to the steering wheel without Cruise Control the original steering wheel for Cruise Control has an additional cutout at the side where the Cruise Control switch is installed. On the outside this is the only difference. On the inside there are some more differences. The steering wheel without Cruise Control does not have the mounting slots for the wiring. Actually this is not a big problem. There are other ways to secure the wiring inside the steering wheel. To retrofit Cruise Control there are 2 options: * You can decide to buy and install a replacement steering wheel which is suitable for Cruise Control. This is the easiest but also the most expensive way to retrofit Cruise Control. Because there are very few (mint condition) used Cruise Control steering wheels for sale the prices are relative high. A new original Cruise Control steering wheel from a Ford dealer will cost you an arm and a leg. * You can also decide to modify the current non Cruise Control steering wheel. To do this it is necessary to make a cutout at the side of the steering wheel. This way you save the costs of a replacement Cruise Control steering wheel. This is the cheapest but also the most labour-intensive way to retrofit Cruise Control. Because I could not find a mint condition replacement Cruise Control steering wheel for my car I decided to modify my own steering wheel. In The Focus MK3 there were 2 different types of steering wheel. Before approximately the 2nd half of 2012 Ford installed a steering wheel with both on the left and right side of the airbag assembly buttons to control the board computer menu and on the right bottom side buttons to control the audio system. After approximately the 2nd half of 2012 Ford changed the steering wheel. The radio controls moved to the right side buttons on the airbag and the right bottom side buttons were removed. The shape and size of both types of steering wheel is the same. Both steering wheels do have exactly the same type of Cruise Control switch. There are differences between the wiring looms of both steering wheel types. If you have the wrong wiring some steering wheel may not work. Because my car is produced in 2013 it has the new type of steering wheel so this guide is based on the new type of steering wheel. Retrofitting Cruise Control on the old type of steering wheel is very similar. Only the wiring looms will be different. Required parts and tools: Parts: * Steering wheel for Cruise Control (only needed if you do not want to modify your current steering wheel). Be careful to buy the correct type of steering wheel for your car!! *Cruise Control switch. The Finis number/part number of the Cruise Control switch has been changed a number of times. The European Cruise Control switch has the following numbers: *Finis 1692215. Part number AM5T-9E740-AA. *Finis 1784105. Part number AM5T-9E740-AB. *Finis 1779756. Part number BK2T-9E740-AA. *Finis 1782873. Part number BK2T-9E740-AB (this is the latest number). The Cruise Control switch will cost approximately 55,- at the local Ford dealer. Sometimes new (orignal) Cruise Control switches including a small wiring loom are offered on Ebay.com for about 80 Dollar. Most times these are Asian versions of the Cruise Control switch. The Asian version does only have cruise Control buttons and does not have the ASL speed limiter buttons. The size and shape of these Asian Cruise Control switches is exactly the same as the European versions. This type of Cruise Control switch can also be used to retrofit cruise Control. * Steering wheel wiring looms. The part numbers you need may be different. In my case I needed the following 2 wiring looms: Finis 1801772. Part number AM51-14C685-AA 16,75. Finis 1801776. Part number AM51-14C685-JA 16,75. * Screws to secure the Cruise Control switch. Tools: * Mid size flat screwdriver. * Torx screwdrivers or torx bits. * Ratchet with 24 mm socket. * Sharp knife. * modified ELM327 interface. Software: * The free FoCCCus software program. Version 0.8.3 kan be downloaded from the following weblink: https://www.dropbox...._0.8.3.rar?dl=0 Removal of the steering wheel: The steering collumn covers must be removed to get access to the airbag removal holes at the back of the steering wheel. Pull the steering wheel towards you as far as possible and lock it into the lowest position. Remove the cloth cover between the dashboard and the steering collumn from the dashboard side. This cover can be removed on the dashboard side by pulling it firmly towards you Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to the left and unlock the top steering collumn cover with a flat screwdriver. Turn the steering wheel 180 degrees to the right and unlock also the other side of the top steering collumn cover When the top cover is unlocked it can be removed from the steering collumn. Note that the cloth cover stays attached to the top steering collumn cover. Remove the 2 Torx screws of the lower steering collumn cover. After these screws are removed the lower cover can be removed. After the steering collumn covers are removed there is enough space to remove the steering wheel airbag. Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to the left. At the back of the steering wheel you can now see a round/oval shaped hole of about 8 mm. Insert a mid size flat screwdriver (5 to 6 mm) into the hole at an angle of about 50 degrees. Twisting this screwdriver will release the spring which secures the airbag onto the steering wheel. Turn the steering wheel 180 degrees and also release the spring at the other side of the steering wheel. After both springs are released the airbag can be lifted from the steering wheel. It may be necessary to wiggle the airbag a bit before it comes loose from the steering wheel. After the airbag is fully loose the airbag connector and the 16-pole clockspring connector can be removed. Next the airbag can be fully removed from the steering wheel and put to the side. To remove the steering wheel you have to remove the central 24 mm steering wheel bolt. After this bolt is removed the steering whell can be removed from the steering collumn. Prevent the clockspring from rotating. This can be done easily by putting a piece of sticky tape onto the clockspring. Installing the Cruise Control switch onto the steering wheel: The steering wheel needs to be modified by making a cutout at the left side of the steering wheel. The mounting point of the Cruise Control switch are present on every Focus MK3 steering wheel. These mounting points are casted into the soft rubber/plastic material of the steering wheel and are not visible. If you know where to search the mounting points can be recognized. On the following picture I marked the mounting points location: To determine the exact position of the Cruise Control switch I revealed the mounting holes first by cutting the soft rubber/plastic material with a sharp knife. Next I determined the exact location of the cruise control switch and marked it onto the steering wheel. To be on the safe side I made the marking a bit smaller than the actual size of the switch. You only have 1 chance to do it right. 1 mistake can result into a ruined steering wheel. Next I started making the cutout into the steering wheel. because I wanted to be on the safe side first my initial cutout was way too small. At this point I determined where the cutout needed to be larger. On these places I removed only small amounts of material at a time. I repeated this until the cutout had the correct shape and size. Note: After I received the Cruise Control switches I ordered at a local Ford dealer (Finis 1782873) I discovered that the small trim on top of the switch was missing. At first i thought the missing trim was forgotten at the factory or something but this was not the case. After a search and some phonecalls I discovered that on Finis 1782873 the top trim is no longer present. This is also mentioned on some other forums. If you order a new Cruise control switch from a local Ford dealer you will automatically receive the latest Finis number which does not have the top trim. Strangely this top trim is not available as a spare part either. I Solved this by installing the top trim from a damaged Cruise Control switch i fount at a local scrap yard The Cruise Control switch can be used perfectly without the top trim. You only have to adapt the size of the cutout to the missing trim. You have to remove less material at the location where the top trim used to be. During cutting the steering wheel be careful to remove very little material at a time. On some places the cover of the switch will only cover the edge of the cutout by 2 mm. It is very easy to ruin the steering wheel by cutting too far. On other forums I have seen many people make this mistake on the same location. Making the cutout at the side of the steering wheel is a very labour intensive job. It took me over 4 hours to make the Cruise control switch fit perfectly. At the end the cutout at the side of the steering wheel looks like this: In my opinion it looks very good. The Cruise Control switch fits perfectly. It is a very snug fit and all edges line up perfectly. During cutting I lost a bit of confidence and thought Why am I doing this. At that time I layed the steering wheel aside and started again the next day with fresh confidence. After the cutout turned out to be the correct shape and size and the Cruise Control switch fitted perfectly I was very happy with the result. Making the cutout at the side of the steering wheel is not a difficult job. It is just a matter of working slowly and accurately. It is important to take enough time for it. After the Cruise Control switch fits perfectly it can be installed into the steering wheel. The Cruise Control switch is secured to the steering wheel by 2 selftapping m4 screws. My experience is that these screws ruin the threads of the steering wheel after they are fastened/unfastened a few times. After I discovered this I decided to use some regular M4 screws which are slightly longer than the original selftapping screws. Wiring: After the switch is installed the wiring of the steering wheel needs tob e changed or modified. A steering wheel without Cruise Control does only have 1 wiring loom. This wiring loom is directly attached to the airbag assembly and connected to the switches next to the airbag. A Steering wheel with Cruise Control has 2 wiring looms. 1 of these wiring looms is installed into the steering wheel and is connected to the Cruise Control switch. This wiring loom has a green 7-pole connector which is connected to the 2nd wiring loom. The 2nd wiring loom is attached to the airbag assembly and is connected to the switches next to the airbag. To retrofit the Cruise Control wiring there are 2 options: * You can use the 2 original steering wheel wiring looms which are suitable for Cruise Control . * You can build yourself a wiring loom and connect this wiring loom to the non Cruise Control wiring loom. The connector of the Cruise Control switch is a 5-pole connector. The pins of this connector have an offset of 2.54 mm. The measurements of this connector are quite common so finding a suitable connector should be no problem. Below a schematic drawing of the Cruise Control wiring: This schematic drawing is based on the steering wheel wiring loom. The 2nd wiring loom that is attached to the airbag assembly is not shown on this schematic drawing. I was planning to make a wiring loom myself and connect it to the existing non Cruise Control wiring loom. However I was lucky and found the original Cruise Control wiring looms at a local scrap yard. They charged me only a few euros for these wiring loom so in the end I decided to use the original wiring looms instead of making them myself. A steering wheel without Cruise Control does not have the mounting slots for the wiring and the mounting hole of the green 7-pole connector. On a steering wheel without Cruise Control It is not possible to secure the wiring inside the steering wheel. An easy solution is to secure the wiring and 7-pole connector inside the steering wheel using some glue. I used Hotglue to secure the wiring and 7-pole connector. If necessary the Hotglue can be removed easily by applying some heat to it. Next the wirning loom which is attached to the airbag needs to be replaced. After all connectors are disconnected the original wiring loom can be removed from the mounting slots. Next the new wiring loom can be installed and all connectors can be connected. Installation of the steering wheel: After the cruise Control switch and wiring are installed the steering wheel can be installed into the car. You have to be absolutely sure that the clockspring is still in the correct position. If there is any doubt about the correct position of the clockspring you should check it by performing the clockspring adjustment procedure: First make sure that the wheels are in the straight position. Next turn the clockspring to the right until resistance is felt. Next turn the clockspring 2.5 turns to the left. This is the correct position. If the clockspring is adjusted correctly there should be a yellow mark visible through the inspection window of the clockspring. Secure the steering wheel by fastening the central steering wheel bolt. The central steering wheel bolt must be tightened to 48 Nm. After the steering wheel is secured the clockspring connector can be connected. Next the airbag connector and the green 7-pole connector can also be connected. If all wiring is connected the airbag can be installed by pushing it into place. Finally the steering wheel collumn covers can also be installed. Activation of the Cruise Control: Connect the ELM327 interface with your laptop (USB) and the OBD connector of the car. Turn the ignition key to the 2nd position (or push the start button without pushing the brake or clutch pedal). Make sure the ELM327 interface is set to diagnose the High Speed Canbus network. Now start the FoCCCus software program. After the program has started it will show the start screen. Select the correct settings for your ELM327 interface and select the Open button. Now the program will be started and shows the Central Config page. Next select the Read From BCM button. Now the program will read the central configuration of the car. After the central configuration is read all settings of the central configuration will be shown in the program. You should always back-up the configuration first before you make any changesThis can be done by selecting the Save to File button. Now change the following settings: #23 Cruise Control. Change from Without Cruise Control to Cruise Control. #224 Adjustable Speed Limiter. Change from Without ASL in With ASL. After both settings are changed select the Write To BCM button. Now the changed settings are written to the central configuration file of the BCM. Repeat the procedure mentioned above for the IPC also. To diagnose the IPC the ELM327 interface must be set to the Mid Speed CANbus network. It is not really needed to change the central configuration of the IPC but my opinion is that both configuration files should be the same to avoid problems. Next go to the ABS page. Select the Initialize ECU button. Now the ABS module will be initialized. This is a necessary step to make the Cruise Control work. after reading/writing the central configuration with the FoCCCus program there will be many DTC codes generated in the different CANbus modules. These DTC codes must be removed. The FoCCCus program only has a limited functionality to delete DTC codes. Personally I like to use the free Forscan software to delete these DTC codes. Testing: After all necessary parts are installed and the Cruise Control and ASL speed limiting system are activated it is time to test the system. During a testdrive I tested the Cruise Control system by selecting the ON/OFF button. Immediately the Cruise Control standby message showed on the instrument cluster display. Next I activated the system by pressing the SET+ button. Next I tested all Cruise Control functions and also the ASL functions. As expecting all functions worked as it should. Costs and labour: By modifying my own steering wheel and using the wiring from the scrap yard I saved a lot of money. The complete retrofit costed me just below 60,-. On the other hand it took me about 8 hour to perform the retrofit. After all it was definetely worth the effort to retrofit the original Cruise Control system.
  2. 1 point
    One thing I find lacking with the Fiesta is not having a 12v socket in the boot for running accessories or a cool box when going out for the day - so I decided to fit one. Here’s how I did it. Firstly the parcel shelf support trim needs to be removed. This is best done with the rear seat reclined: Now for the wiring. For my requirements I need around 7A. That is too much to load onto any existing circuit around the rear of the car, so I decided to run a new feed from the fuse box. I ordered 5m of thinwall 11A cable. When it arrived I was surprised at how thin it was! After some reassurance from the supplier that it will be fine (fingers crossed), I also ordered a fuse adaptor, a 10A fuse and various crimp terminals. I then set about installing it all. To access the fuse box behind the glovebox, first empty the glovebox and squeeze the sides together so that the glovebox can open fully exposing the fuse panel behind.