Budding Enthusiast
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Neb_engineer

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta mk7.5
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. This has already been solved in another post This should hopefully also work for your issue
  2. It might be worth looking at the naturally aspirated ford engines as well because from experience, turbo engine vehicles usually have a much more expensive insurance than the same insurance on a non turbo car, also if you can, jack up the car just to check wheel bearing, and knuckle play, my aunt's fiesta had wheel bearing issues not to long after she purchased it second hand
  3. Well actually, there is a hidden key barrel in the steering column on most keyless start fords with a cover over it because if the battery is flat but you need to unlock the steering, the barrel is there and also if the battery goes flat in the keyless key. Consult the owners manual, there should be an entry about it.
  4. Sounds like the actuator may have broken in the mech, or something got jammed in the mechanism causing the boot opening mech to not be able to unlatch
  5. All the relevant fuses in the interior fuse box for Mk7 onwards are all the smaller fuse type (aside from the cigarette lighter socket fuse and a few other which are the cube fuses) and that kit will work fine in your car
  6. you should be fine with that hardwire kit, it is the same one i used to fit my next base dash cam, one thing to note on MK7.5 (i am not sure about other MKs) you can't piggy back of the cigarette lighter fuse due to it being a cube fuse, i piggy-backed of the dash fuse which is 7.5 amps (if memory surves me) because that fuse was switched with the ignition, also the piggy back harness does not mess with the original fuse (as in the fuse for the dash cam can blow without the fuse for the circuit you are tapping into being affected), but if the original fuse goes then both that original circuit and the dash cam will not have power.
  7. Look to see if any oil lines have come loose or are damaged
  8. You can look up the VIN number for the vehicle to find out if it's a titanium, from the sounds of it though it sounds more likely to be a lower trim level car, because to the best of my knowledge, all Titanium fiesta's came with alloys in the Mk6 and beyond (not sure about older ones), also titanium is one of the higher trim levels for a fiesta
  9. On forscan you can check to see if the car is reading the full range of your throttle peddle (0-100%) also check for vacuum leaks, these can be found by spraying something like ez start or end 40, or brake clean into the engine bay, if the revs go up when you do then you have a vacuum leak
  10. Check to see if the pads are loose in the calliper, also make sure that the brake calliper can move properly and freely on its mounts (if it's the standard single sided piston calliper that fords come with)
  11. Check the earth strap for the engine, could be loose
  12. You can buy camera input adapter harnesses that allow you to connect the camera input through a phono connection
  13. What version stereo have u got (sync 1.0, sync 1.1, sync 2, sync 3)
  14. Is your screen colour or blue and black, also there are wiring diagrams for the radio online however it is honestly easier to wire the camera into a separate screen (this is what I did) and the if you do that you can then just wire the camera power into the reverse light because if you wire it into the stereo, not only do you have to activate the feature, but the camera has to also have constant power.