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About immobilised@75

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    focus mk2
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  1. Also had the key fob repaired by George 'The Master locksmith'. For £20.00 it was a no brainer. (He also fixed my SAAB key fob for £30.00). All done via Royal Mail. Well pleased. To sum it up: the stupid Focus is now working and the fob is repaired- meaning the boot is now accessible - which SWMBO finds "quite useful" for some reason. So, thank you for all your very helpful suggestions, they were greatly appreciated.
  2. It was a local guy Steve Hewson, (Hometune auto diagnostics, Stafford) - who did an excellent diagnosing job. However, he sent the IC off to someone else to fix. Not sure who.
  3. Wahoo! Excuse my exuberance but the Instrument Cluster, having been fixed (£200.00) and refitted is now allowing the car to work. Engine has started and all seems (?) ok... Thanks for your help
  4. Thanks very much for that Wilco that's cleared things up beautifully... And so sorry for not getting back to you sooner...... Re the 'immobilised' propblem, I found a local guy who, after interrogating the system has concluded that the instument cluster (I/C) is the most likely cause of my 'dead car. The I/C is now in for repair.... fingers crossed that this will fix it........ Otherwise its the great scrapyard in the sky for it..... Again, many thanks, Dave
  5. Thanks for that Peter, you've given me lots to look at- particularly easing out the IC. Re the alarm going off I did put the key in the ignition and turned it on and off a few times, but the alarm just carried on screaming for help.....(stupid thing) I have two key blades, one with the remote buttons and one without, that both used to open the doors and would start the car ok. It wouldn't bother me if I had to open the door and start the engine without using the remote process, but I would have a problem with the boot which remains locked and could only be opened with the remote button. (or dropping the seats down and climbing in, which SWMBO might find a tad inconvenient when loading her weekly shopping) Again Peter, many thanks, Dave.
  6. You are both correct..... I returned from a couple of days away, having disconnected the battery prior to leaving. When i got back the key worked- in a purely mechanical way and I could get into the car ok. I reconnected the battery and the alarm went off.... So I disconnected it again. I'm hoping to fix the key problem with a soldering iron, then remove the instrument panel (IC) to see what that might reveal. (Haynes suggests that the instrument must be kept upright to avoid leakage..... Is that correct do you know? Also, what is the best (cheapest) option for getting two replacement keys? I hope you don't mind my never ending questions.... Your help is greatly appreciated. Dave. .
  7. I see what you are saying Peter and my next port of call was to be the Instrument Cluster (early next week), however the Focus is one step ahead of me and has now locked me out totally. Foolishly I opened the remote fob and found the 'unlock' button even more remote than the fob.... Which might account for the difficulty we have had opening the car over the years. Using dexterity, skill and a bit of solder, I carefully resoldered it back into position and lo..... The remote no longer works at all. When I insert the key and turn it counter clockwise the car emits lots of clunky whirry sounds.... and it is soundly locked. When I insert the key and turn it clockwise more clunky sounds are emitted and.... I can't get in. Obviously my car has gone into Ford's little known 'don't ever think of trying to get into me again' mode. I tried gaining access with my non-remote key, which has worked as a basic form of access and drive- in the past, to no avail. I have been totally rejected by the heap of automotive junk that is now taking up space on my drive. At age 75, I'm not sure I have enough years on this mortal coil, or will power, to see this issue through. Ford 1- Dave 0.
  8. Well here are some pages of my 1st forscan diagnostic attempt. Is it suggested that the top faults are the most likely problem? (Mind, it does say that "modules should not be replaced based only on a 'U' code- which suggests that I should start with the PCM P1260- 61 DTC (8th fault down)- meaning I'll have to go back out and dig a little deeper.... er, tomorrow) Does that sound sensible? (something I'm not normally associated with) Or am I talking out of my nether region? Regards and thanks for all your help. Dave.
  9. Very much on the off chance that this, 2005 Mk2 Focus, under bonnet fuse box diagram that I found and modified might be of some use- here it is. Doc2 - Copy.pdf
  10. Wow!. Thanks for that Peter, it gives me something positive (sorry about that) to investigate. I did used to work in an electronics design department during the 'Stone age'. (Although I confess to feeling a bit of a fraud with my limited knowledge ( I could spell discrete, integrated circuits (74 & 4000 series) and zener, but that was close to my limit)). I even taught 'Microprocessors' at Telford college just after the ice age...... But modern car circuitry combined with Sensors leave my wallowing.... ( I did look the word 'sensors' up and it said "a device designed to theoretically sense a fault, but which- in reality creates 90% of the faults by failing) Again Peter, many thanks. I'll now look up removing the instrument cluster, which i believe can be a bit tricky. (nowt that a lump hammer couldn't sort) Oops, I've just read and printed off the excellent treatise that you pointed me at re removing the instrument cluster (without resorting to the sacred lump hammer....) Triple thanks Peter.
  11. I'm having exactly the same problem with my, 2006, 1.8 TDCi (Code 1- 6) and having tested all the relays are ok in the under-bonnet fuse box, likewise the one in the Body control Module (passenger side fusebox) I am at a loss. I have located a fairly heavy duty (1 1/2" x 2") relay dangling well below the nearside headlight and will test that later. I've also downloaded the free ForScan software and should be receiving an ELM327 to USB thingamijig later today, whence I will begin probing in earnest. The idea that an anti theft device could cause this much mayhem, and danger (it cut out on a bend in the road) leaves me wondering about the mindset of the designers. (If a thief came up to my car now, I'd help em hitch it up and happily wave it bye bye.....) I'll keep you posted on my progress- if I do make progress
  12. I've been chasing reasons for my Focus being 'immobilised' and came across this arrangement from the under bonnet fusebox. A single red wire into a connector and running down to a Yellow relay which is literally dangling down into the engine bay (about 12 inches beneath the nearside headlamp). Other wires ar coming from the relay but i haven't yet identified where they go. Any idea what the relay arrangement is doing? Please.